Hi, my name is Tom McGowan.
Congratulations on your new Sony brand digital satellite system.
Now I'm here to help you figure out how to install it at your home.
The Sony brand DSS equipment has been designed to be easy to install and use.
And even though the installation is relatively simple, watch the whole tape.
There are a lot of details that are important to pay attention to.
To ensure the best performance, we'll cover the basic techniques that apply to most situations.
This tape does not replace the antenna installation manual.
The manual provides additional information, so read it before you begin the installation.
Refer to it if you run into any difficulties.
You know, I think it's easier to do things like installing your Sony DSS equipment after
watching someone else do it.
So sit back, watch me, and you'll be ready to do your own.
Item number one.
After watching this tape and looking through the manual, check the boxes to get familiar
with their content.
The engineers at Sony call this a satellite antenna with a single receptor.
Most people I know call it a satellite dish or an antenna.
As you might guess, it receives the signal from the satellite.
Depending on your system, you may have a single receptor like this or a dual receptor like
this.
There's a slight difference in installing the two types.
I'll tell you about the differences as we go along.
This is the satellite receiver.
It decodes the signal and sends it to your television.
And this is the remote control unit.
It lets you navigate through more than 150 channels using the on-screen program guide
from the comfort of your favorite chair.
If you're watching this tape, it means that you also purchased the installation kit and
plan on installing the system yourself.
It comes with a compass, two lengths of RG6 cable, a 75-foot and a 25-foot piece.
It also has two 25-foot lengths of telephone line cord with modular connectors and a modular
inline telephone coupler.
There's also a silicone sealer for weatherproofing and a plastic bag that contains all the small
pieces of hardware you'll need.
The coax cable included will probably be enough, but you may need more if you install the antenna
a long distance from the house or if you have a dual receptor antenna.
In that case, purchase only Sony Accessory RG6 type cable for your additional needs.
Most people will probably already have all the tools needed to install the DSS equipment.
A wrench, wire cutter, a hammer, a Phillips screwdriver, and a level.
You'll probably also need a drill and some bits.
If you're going to be working around brick or stone, you'll need protective eyewear.
And it would be best to use a percussion or masonry drill and masonry bits.
And if you need one, we strongly recommend using a fiberglass ladder for added safety.
In order to work, the antenna has to have a clear view directly to the satellite.
This line of sight is determined by two factors, the satellite's elevation, which means it's
up and down adjustment, and its azimuth, which is simply the side to side adjustment.
It helps to remember that the satellite is in a stationary orbit that's over the equator
and almost precisely aligned with the center of the United States.
Now what that means is that from our location right here in Georgia, we have to aim our
antenna to a southwestward direction.
If we were in the western half of the country, we'd aim our antenna to the southeast.
You can find out what your azimuth and elevation coordinates are in two ways.
Using the grid in chapter two of the antenna manual or entering your zip code in the receiver's
antenna setup screen.
Right now it's easier for me to use the antenna manual.
The chart in the antenna manual lets us know that our elevation is 45 degrees and the azimuth
is 210 degrees.
To put this information to practical use, I find due north with my compass.
There.
Next, I imagine a line going from the center of the compass to my azimuth, which is right
here.
That means I have to point my satellite antenna in that direction.
To simplify matters, I'm going to use that tree as a landmark.
I already know that my elevation has to be 45 degrees.
Now I need to find where it is in the sky.
To do that, I just remember that the horizon is zero degrees.
Directly above my head is 90 degrees and halfway between those two spots is 45 degrees.
Therefore, my elevation of 45 degrees is right there.
It's a rough estimate, but it lets me know the general area where my antenna needs to
be aimed.
Next step, finding a place to put our satellite antenna.
There are a few basic mounting systems.
We'll cover the brick, wood shingle, and pole mounts.
You'll determine which mount you want to use by finding a spot that will give you a clear,
unobstructed view of the satellite.
Of course, it should be a location that is aesthetically pleasing, but it needs to be
a spot that will stay that way.
So think about things like tree growth and the possibility of new buildings going up.
You should also try to use the shortest cable route.
You should keep away from power lines and overhead lights and never mount the antenna
on aluminum or vinyl siding or under an overhang.
Also avoid composite materials such as particles, strand and chipboard, and stucco.
We decided to install our antenna right here on this wall, because in addition to meeting
all of our other needs, it's easily accessible, stable, and there are no electrical wires.
We're going to show you how to mount the mast on various types of sidings.
Let's fast forward the tape to find the method you're going to use.
To mount the foot to a brick wall, you're going to have to use machine screws and expansion
anchors like these.
Both come in the self-installation kit.
Select a flat surface on the wall for the foot.
Mark one of the outside holes and drill a hole that's deep enough for the screw.
Then clean away any dust and debris left in the hole with a brush or air.
Insert the wall anchor.
Next, attach the base plate to the wall with a machine screw.
Tighten it so the foot fits loosely against the wall.
Use a level to straighten the mast and make a mark on the brick that lines up with the
center line of the lower foot.
Then make marks in the three remaining corner holes.
You then have to remove the base plate.
Drill and clean the three remaining holes.
Attach the mount and mast with the machine screws and wall anchors.
Once you've tightened all four corners, it's time to level the mast.
Make sure the two mounting bolts at the base of the mast are loose.
Then place the level on the side of the mast like this and straighten out the mast.
It's extremely important to have a perfectly level mast.
Then tighten the mounting bolts.
Check to make sure all of your bolts are tight and you're ready to move on to the next step.
Assembling the antenna.
Most panel siding is large enough and flat enough to provide an ideal surface to mount
the DSS antenna.
But remember, you can only mount the antenna on a panel made of plywood or solid wood.
Do not mount the antenna on any kind of composite material unless you can find the stud behind
the exterior.
There's lots of different kinds of siding.
Some flat, some uneven, some wide, and some narrow.
For our purposes, siding that's flat is ideal.
Chances are you're going to have to use a spacer under the foot assembly to create a
secure mount.
It fits behind the foot just like this.
If this were a real wall, we'd probably select this spot to place our foot assembly because
it's where the wall stud's located.
In most homes, the wall studs are either 16 inches or 24 inches apart.
An easy way to find them is to look for the nails that are driven into the wall frame.
If you look closely, you can see the vertical line that they've formed on this wall.
After you've attached the spacer, put a pencil mark in the center of the stud.
Use the upper center hole of the base plate as your guide, then drill a hole.
Then attach the base plate to the siding with the lag screw.
Tighten the screw so the base plate is just hanging on the wall.
You should be able to move it back and forth like this.
After the mast is mounted to the wall, use a level to make it vertical.
Make a pencil mark in the center hole of the lower foot.
Loosen the mast and move it so you can get to the lower center hole on the base plate.
Make sure the center line is still lined up with the mark, then drill a pilot hole in
the lower center mounting hole.
Put another lag bolt and washer in the bottom hole.
And now, tighten both the top and bottom lag bolts.
Drill pilot holes in the four corners of the foot.
And then put a lag bolt in each corner.
Once you've tightened all four corners, it's time to level the mast.
Make sure the two mounting bolts at the base of the mast are loose.
Then place the level on the side of the mast like this and straighten out the mast.
It's extremely important to have a perfectly level mast.
Tighten the mounting bolts, check to make sure all of your bolts are tight, and you're
ready to move on.
If you want to mount the antenna on a pole, select a spot that will provide a firm foundation.
If there are too many rocks, it'll be difficult to dig the hole.
If there's excess moisture, the concrete may not cure properly.
Also, make sure that the spot you select for the pole is not near any utility lines.
Your local gas, electric, telephone, water, and sewer companies can tell you if there
are any underground lines in your yard.
To install a pole mount, you're going to need additional tools and materials.
Chapter 3 of the installation manual provides a complete list.
The hole will have to be at least 8 inches in diameter and 36 inches deep.
To keep the pole from rotating after it's been installed, cut the bottom of the pole
at a 45 degree angle.
Next, place a stone or brick at the bottom of the pole.
The tip of the bottom will sit on the brick or stone.
Mix the quick dry cement and pour it into the hole.
Immediately after the cement is poured, hold the pole upright and level it with a bubble
level.
For the antenna to be aimed properly, it's critical that the pole be perfectly vertical.
While the cement is drying, secure the pole with guy wires or wooden braces, and then
check to make sure the pole is still level.
Once the cement is dry, the wires or braces are removed, and you're ready to go on to
the next step, assembling the antenna.
We think it's a good idea to assemble the antenna on the ground, then when it's fully
assembled, attach it to the mast.
To assemble the antenna, place the end of the receptor or LMB support arm against the
back of the reflector bracket and align the two holes.
Then tighten the two bolts in the LMB support arm into the reflector bracket and make sure
they're even.
After that, you can mount the antenna on the mast.
To install the antenna, just slide this clamp on the support arm over the mast assembly,
and that's it.
Now this is important.
Not tighten the azimuth bolts yet.
They should stay loose so you can do some fine tuning later on.
Now would be a good time to rough in the elevation adjustment.
Our elevation at this house is 45 degrees.
We move the antenna using the elevation gauge on the side to 45 degrees.
It's a good idea now to plan the routing of your coaxial cabling.
When you chose the dish location, you already thought about making the wire run as short
as possible and making the installation easy.
So this part should be a review.
On our installation, we're going to run the cabling down the side of the house and enter
through the foundation.
We'll want to put the drip loop and grounding block on this part of the foundation.
Once inside, we'll run the cable through the basement ceiling and come up through the baseboard.
We'll terminate the cable at an in-wall box, and I think that's a good plan.
Now let's get started on connecting the coaxial cable.
To connect your coaxial cable to the LMB portion of the antenna, use the 25-foot cable provided
in your installation kit.
Screw the end onto the LMB.
Make sure to use the weatherproof boot and push it snugly against the LMB.
Secure the cable to the LMB with the two cable guides that snap in the holes on the support
arm.
Here's where the difference between the two types of antennas becomes obvious.
If you have the dual receptor antenna and you want to use more than one receiver now
or in the future, you'll need to attach two coaxial cables, one to each LMB.
That's the case for all wiring from here down to the receiver.
So if you have the dual receptor antenna and want to use more than one receiver, make sure
to duplicate the coaxial cabling.
The National Electrical Code requires all coaxial cables that may be exposed to lightning
and power conductors to be grounded.
We installed our ground block right here, within easy reach of the 25-foot coaxial cable.
The National Electrical Code has some specific requirements concerning ground electrodes.
Your antenna installation manual has some details.
If you need to know more, your local library or building department should have a copy
of the code.
When we connected the coaxial cable from the antenna to the ground block, we left room
for plenty of slack, which we used to form this drip loop.
The loop keeps water from getting into the ground block.
We then secured the loop to the wall with cable clips and connected the coaxial cable
to the ground block.
Remember, if you have a dual receptor antenna, you need to do this to each wire.
You also have to connect the grounding wire to the base plate with a bolt, nut, and star
washer.
If you look closely, you'll see that the grounding wire goes in a straight line from
the antenna to the ground electrode, another requirement of the National Electrical Code.
Once you connect a conductor to the ground block, the LNB will be completely grounded.
Then secure everything, and then you can finish routing cables.
Now that the hole is drilled, we have a few other details to finish before we go inside.
We snaked the end of the 75-foot cable through a half-inch hole that we drilled.
Then we connected the cable to the ground block, formed a drip loop, and secured the
cable to this wall with cable clips.
To prevent moisture problems, we'll fill the cable hole with the supplied silicone.
Inside your house, the cable has to be routed to the rear of the receiver, which means the
cable could come up through a wall or a floor.
Our cable came out through this wall.
Next, connect the coaxial cable to the satellite in on the rear of the receiver.
Once we finish here, we can hook up the telephone line to the satellite receiver.
Hooking the telephone line up to your receiver enables you to make pay-per-view program selection
with the remote control, and it's required if you wish to receive sports programming.
If you have an unused modular telephone jack near your receiver, the step will be easy.
Just insert one end of the telephone line into the jack and the other end into the receiver.
There are many different ways you can hook your DSS receiver to your TV.
I'll cover a few of the basic ones.
If you need more detailed information, the receiver manual has many of these hookups
drawn in detail.
The first is the line output connection.
Use the supplied connectors to make this happen.
Connect the line cables to the video out jacks on the back of the receiver.
Connect the other end of the cabling to your television.
This hookup provides nearly the best quality available.
If you purchased the SAT-A1 receiver, an S-Video connector was included.
If you have the SAT-B1 receiver, you can purchase the S-Video cable as an accessory.
With an S-Video connector on the back of your television, use the S-Video cable instead
of the line video cable.
This connection provides optimum performance.
A second type of hookup uses the VHF satellite output on either receiver.
In this case, connect a coaxial cable to the VHF SAT-UHF connector on the back of the unit.
Turn that cable to the back of your television.
There is a coaxial connector that probably reads VHF UHF IN.
Connect the coaxial cable, and tune the television to channel 3 or 4, depending on the position
of your DSS receiver's back panel switch.
The last hookup we'll talk about is the VCR connection.
If you own a VCR with line inputs, just connect the line cable to the output of your DSS satellite
receiver.
Take the other end of that cable and connect it to the line input of your VCR.
When you want to record from the DSS receiver, select the line input and leave the DSS receiver
on.
As I said before, more details are available in your receiver's owner's manual, so please
refer to it.
Now that you're connected to the television set, it's time to fine tune the antenna.
In order to determine how strong our signal is, we need to get to the setup screen.
Get your remote control and press the DSS function button.
Then, press menu.
That'll display the main menu screen.
Select system menu by pressing the cursor keys.
Then, select the installation menu.
Finally, choose setup antenna from the menu screen.
You'll see this screen.
It lets us know how strong or weak the signal is.
Now, we have to fine tune the alignment.
This signal strength meter will help.
If you don't get any signal strength to register, you'll need to check your elevation and alignment
numbers.
Then, check to make sure your antenna mast is vertically level.
Most likely, a second look and adjustment will solve your problem.
Let's go back outside to fine tune the antenna.
One really terrific feature on this Sony antenna is the signal seeker.
This LED allows us to fine tune the antenna even without seeing the setup screen inside
the house.
Although, if you can use a portable TV or have someone help you here, it could speed
things along.
The signal seeker will blink slowly if you're receiving a weak signal.
Since we didn't tighten the adjustment bolts on the antenna, it should be easy to tilt
the dish very slowly up and down to improve our signal.
As the LED blinks quickly, we know the signal's improving.
After adjusting the elevation up and down, secure the bolts without overtightening.
Now, move the dish from side to side.
The azimuth adjustment should cause the LED to blink very quickly.
The signal's locked in.
At this point, it's important to get the highest signal strength possible.
Either look yourself or have someone tell you what the signal meter reads.
A higher number indicates good signal strength.
The highest strength will help prevent problems later on.
This is the part I've been waiting for.
The system is installed with a strong signal and I'm ready to be entertained.
Now, I need to contact the program providers.
Calling DirecTV and U.S.S.B. will fill my screen with more than 150 channels.
Their phone numbers are in the receiver's operation manual.
I'll call them in a minute.
That's it for our installation.
Now, it's your turn.
Remember, read your manual and get all the proper tools together before you begin.
We hope this tape has been helpful and we hope you enjoy your new Sony brand DSS.
Thanks for your time.