You
The bandsaw is noted for its ability to cut curves and irregular shapes
However, it can also make straight cuts such as a cross cut which is cutting across the grain of the wood and a rip cut
which is cutting with the grain as
Well as angled cuts such as mitre's
and bevels
The bandsaw can also be used for resawing sawing thinner boards from one thick one and for cutting multiple copies of the same shape
This program has been divided into the following segments
We'll begin with safety and follow with getting to know your saw blade assortment basic cuts
Accessories and projects you can make
While the bandsaw is an exceedingly useful power tool like all power tools
It can also be very dangerous if not used properly therefore make sure you follow the general safety instructions for all power tools
Make sure the parts are properly assembled and adjusted keep the power off except when you're actually using the saw
Wear safety goggles whenever you're working around the machine
Don't wear loose clothing jewelry or watches if you have long hair tie it up or tuck it under a cap
When you're operating the bandsaw make sure the guard is adjusted to just clear the workpiece and your hands are clear of the blade
And out of the blades path
Keep your workplace clean and well lighted since woodworking can be messy. It's a good practice to clean up as you work
Most importantly go over all the safety instructions given in the owner's manual and on the bandsaw itself
Understanding them and following them may save you from having a dangerous accident
Let's take a look at the bandsaws controls
The on-off switch has a locking feature which helps prevent unauthorized use
To unlock the saw insert the yellow key in the switch
You turn on the saw by putting your finger under the end of the red switch lever and pulling
To turn off the saw push the red lever in
In order to remove the yellow key keep the switch in the off position while pulling the key straight out
It's a good idea to put the key in a safe place away from the saw when you're not using it
The
Tension adjustment knob is on the top of your bandsaw
Tightening the knob by turning it clockwise will increase the tension on the blade
While loosening it by turning it counterclockwise will decrease the tension
You can see the tension on the digital display counter
The correct tension will depend on the size of the blade
The bevel lock knob which is located under the left front edge of the table and the hand wheel are used to set bevel angles
To tilt the head for a bevel cut first unlock the bevel lock by pulling out the knob
If you have the electronic bandsaw press the bevel key on the display panel
So you can read the angle of the blade to the table
Turn the hand wheel counterclockwise to increase the tilt angle of the blade
When you have the bevel angle you want to turn the bevel lock
When you have the bevel angle you want lock the bevel lock by pushing in on the knob until it is fully seated
The bandsaw has blade guides located on both sides of the blades both above and below the cutting table
The upper and lower blade guides support the blade and keep it from twisting during operation
The backup bearings support the blade from the rear
The guides and the bearings can be adjusted in or out for various widths of blades
Setup adjustment and alignment procedures vary from model to model
The blade of your bandsaw must be installed and aligned properly the specific instructions are in your owner's manual
The guide bar lock knob is located on the right side of the bandsaw housing
It allows you to raise or lower the upper blade guides
The upper blade guides should just clear the workpiece while you're cutting
Always adjust the guides before turning on the bandsaw and lock the guide bar by tightening the knob
For this demonstration
We're using a bandsaw with an electronic indicator system
If your saw does not have this system refer to your owner's manual for adjustments and settings
The electronic indicator system provides a way to accurately position the blade and monitor the setup
The display can show the bevel angle the blade tension and the blade speed
The functions include an on-off key
The bevel angle key which selects the bevel angle display
The 10 key which selects the blade tensions display
The FPM key which selects the blade tension display
The FPM key which selects the blade speed display in surface feet per minute
and the reference set key
The reference set key sets the bevel angle to zero
You need to set the bevel angle to zero whenever a battery is installed or new zero point is needed
Normally you set the zero reference with the blade vertical to the table
First press the on-off key if the display is off
Then press the bevel key
And then the ref set key
The display should read 0.0
To select blade tension press the 10 key
The display will show one of seven tension settings ranging from L which indicates loose
Or no tension to the right tensions for different size blades
Turn the tension knob until the correct readout appears for the blade or sanding belt you have selected
To see the blade speed press the FPM key
It will read out 3,000 feet per minute or 1,500 feet per minute depending on where the motor v-belt is positioned
The 3,000 FPM is recommended for normal operations such as basic wood cutting and resawing
The 1,500 FPM setting is for operations requiring more control of the workpiece
Such as intricate wood cutting and cutting veneers, tile, and plastics
Bandsaw blades come coiled up
Before you uncoil the blade make sure you're wearing safety goggles
Hold the blade at arm's length as you uncoil it
Blades for the bandsaw vary in width from 1 16th inch to 1 half inch
The widest blade is 1.5 inches wide
Blades for the bandsaw vary in width from 1 16th inch to 1 half inch
The widest blades are used for straight cuts, resawing, and where slight curves are to be cut
Thin blades are used when a short radius curve must be cut
Blade information charts such as the one in your owner's manual
Indicate the minimum circle diameter that can be cut with each size blade
For example a 1 quarter inch blade the blade that comes with your bandsaw
Will cut a circle with a minimum diameter of approximately 1 and a half inch
Bandsaw blades are available in several varieties
Those that cut wood and those that cut metal and non-ferrous metals
The wood cutting blades are either general cutting, fast cutting, or scroll cutting
Bandsaw blades also differ in the number of teeth per inch
Use blades with more teeth per inch for smoother cuts
When you want to cut non-ferrous metals such as brass, copper, and aluminum
You'll need to use metal cutting blades
Every time you install or change a blade on your bandsaw
You must follow the alignment steps for proper tension, blade guide, and bearing adjustments
This alignment procedure is gone over in detail in your owner's manual
Along with the steps for squaring the blade to the table
By properly aligning your blade your cuts will be as accurate as possible
And you'll avoid premature blade breakage
The bandsaw can be used for all types of cuts
Including freehand cutting, cross cuts, bevel cuts, rip cuts, and cutting curves
Freehand cutting is the least accurate method of cutting
And is generally used just to rough out work
Before you begin your cut make sure the blade guard is down
And that your hands are out of the path of the blade
Start the cut in the waste material
While cross cuts and rip cuts can be made freehand
They are much more accurate if you use a miter gauge for your cross cuts
And a rip fence for your rip cuts
Both the miter gauge and the rip fence are available as accessories
To cross cut using a miter gauge set the gauge at zero degrees
Position the workpiece against the miter gauge
Remember to put the blade guard down before doing any cutting
Turn the saw on and guide the wood through
Bevel cuts are angled cuts
To set the angle with the electronic indicator system
First press on and then press off
To set the angle with the electronic indicator system
First press on and then press bevel
Unlock the bevel lock
And turn the hand wheel counter clockwise to get the angle you need
Then lock the bevel lock
Adjust the blade guard
Place the workpiece against the miter gauge
Turn the saw on and make the cut
In order to rip stock you'll want to use a rip fence as a guide
Attach the fence to the table and lock it in place so you can get the cut width you need
Lower the blade guard
Turn the saw on and make the cut
The bandsaw is known for its ability to cut curves and there are several tricks that can help you
Try to remove any waste you can with the first cut
It's also a good idea to make relief cuts but be sure you don't cut into the pattern lines as you make these cuts
If the shape is complex cut it in stages and reposition the piece for easier access
If you have to cut the same curves on several pieces, nail the pieces together on the waste material and then cut all of them at once
You can also glue them together, make sure you put a piece of paper in between the two surfaces
This makes it easier to separate them when you've finished
You can cut circles freehand but for the best results you'll need a circle cutting jig which is available as an accessory
Set the indicator at the diameter you want and tighten the thumb screw
The starting point of your cut should be at the edge of the workpiece
Lower the blade guide to just clear the workpiece
The center pin will just touch the workpiece
Push down the center pin to seat the point
Turn on the saw and turn the workpiece slowly into the blade in a clockwise rotation
When you've finished the cut, turn off the saw, lift up on the center pin, remove the workpiece and throw away the surplus wood
Resawing is sawing thinner boards from one thick one and it can be done easily with the bandsaw
You'll need a rip fence to use as a guide
Lower the blade guide to just clear the workpiece
Scrape the thickness you want on the top edge and adjust the fence
Hold the stock firmly against the fence with one hand and feed it into the blade with the other
As the saw approaches the end of the cut, use a block to push the stock forward
You can cut tile, plastics and non-ferrous metals such as brass, copper and aluminum with your bandsaw
But first you'll have to change the speed setting from 3000 feet per minute to 1500 feet per minute
To change the speed on your particular model, see your owner's manual
For the non-ferrous metals, use a metal cutting blade
The bandsaw can be converted into the sander by installing the sanding attachment and the sanding belt that comes with your saw
See your owner's manual or accessory guide for instructions on installing the sanding attachment
As you sand, make sure you don't push your workpiece too hard against the sander or it may burn
If you want your cuts to be as accurate as possible, you'll need a miter gauge and a rip fence
The circle cutting attachment helps make cutting circles easy
And a variety of blades and sanding belts give your saw added versatility
Using the bandsaw, you can make a number of projects
Cut out letters or numbers that are used as a door or letterbox sign are easy to do on a bandsaw
And this kind of curb cutting for a decorative shelf is also easy
A combination of precise measuring and careful cutting is the key to basic woodworking
Your bandsaw is capable of cutting curbs as well as making all the straight cuts and resawing
By using your bandsaw properly and by following the instructions in your owner's manual for proper alignment and maintenance
You'll have a power tool that will greatly increase your woodworking capability
In the second part of this tape, you'll learn how to use your Craftsman bandsaw to make this rocking horse
As a finished piece, this rocking horse may look like a difficult project to make
It's actually quite simple and it can be completed in one or two evenings
For the purposes of this demonstration, we have pre-built the rocking horse in several stages
This way, it will be easier for you to follow the progression as we go through it
Make sure that you view this entire tape before beginning the project
We've also included printed project plans with this video tape
For this project, you'll need the lumber or stock listed on the bill of materials as shown here
The construction of this horse can be accomplished in three steps
First, all of the pieces needed are cut according to the plans that come with this tape
Second, holes are drilled for the screws used to fasten the horse together
And third, the pieces which include the head, legs, seat, and rockers are assembled
Before making any cut with your bandsaw, make sure your saw is set up properly
The guide should be set very close to the saw blade, right behind the blade tooth gullet
And the guide should be set one-eighth to one-quarter of an inch above the stock
We'll set the guides this way to prevent the blade from twisting
Finally, check that the saw is set at ninety degrees to the table
The electronic display should read zero
Also, don't forget to wear goggles or safety glasses when using any power tool
To make the head, legs, and seat of the rocking horse, first make a template for each piece
from the information contained in the project plans
Then, trace the outline of the template onto your stock
When you cut the various pieces, always remember to leave extra stock around the edges of your outline
for final sanding and filing
The first piece to cut is the head
The head and neck are fairly smooth cuts and should be no problem
The neck is a tight radius in which to move the saw
To simplify the job, we'll make relief cuts first
Relief cuts are simply straight lines cut close to but not touching the outline of the pattern to be cut
In this case, the neck
Make three relief cuts
The cuts will allow for parts of the scrap to fall away from the wood as you cut the pattern
Remember to turn and feed the stock at the same time
Failure to do so may cause the blade to bind or break
and can also cause the blade to dull prematurely
Always allow the saw to come to a complete stop before removing any pieces of scrap
Lay out and trace the legs and seat
You can cut the legs separately, or if you want, you can cut both legs at once
Just tack the two pieces of stock together with finishing nails
Remember to leave the nail heads exposed so that they can later be removed
Make sure that the nails are safely inside the pattern, not the scrap, since the scrap will be cut away
The sides of the pieces should be even before you begin
Use a slower feed rate when cutting two pieces at once
When you finish cutting, remove the nails and you'll have two identical pieces
The holes left by the nails are very small and can easily be filled with wood putty
The next step will be to cut the rockers from 1x4s
Position the rocker template so that you exclude any flaws in the stock
Since both rockers are identical, you can cut them separately or together, as you may have done with the legs
When all of the pieces are cut, the next step is to round all of the edges
We're using a router table with a rounding bit for this process, but you could also use a file or sandpaper
This Craftsman router table has a unique fence that can be turned 180 degrees and still have a guard for protection
Now that all of the pieces have been cut and rounded, we're ready to lay out and drill holes for the screws that will hold our project together
We'll begin with the rockers
Refer to the drawing included with this tape for the proper position of the holes
We'll drill these holes with a drill press. That's the best, neatest, and most accurate way to do it
But if you don't have a drill press, you can use a hand drill
Drill four screw holes through each rocker
Then counterbore these holes with a 3 eighths inch spade bit so that they can be filled later with a dowel plug or button
Next, lay out and drill the screw holes that attach the legs to the seat
And the screw holes that attach the head to the seat
Again, refer to your plans for exact placement
To align the head to the seat, mark a center line through the middle of the seat board
Also mark a center line on the front and back edges of the horse's neck
Position the head on the seat so that the lines match up
Then mark and drill the pilot holes as shown on the plans
On the top of the seat, counterbore the leg holes for dowel plugs or buttons
Then turn the seat over and counter-sink the holes for the flat head screws that will attach the head to the seat
Now we're ready to begin assembling the project
For added stability, we've made dado cuts on the seat for the legs to fit into
If you don't have the equipment needed to make a dado cut, an ordinary butt joint will work
First, place the legs into the dado slots on the seat
Then transfer the marks for the holes onto the legs using a center punch
Make sure the edges are flush with the sides of the seat before punching
Drill a pilot hole and then glue and screw the legs to the seat
Making sure that the legs remain square with the seat as you do so
Next, line up the rockers on the legs and transfer the marks for the holes using a center punch
Drill pilot holes for the screws and attach the rockers
There's one last hole to drill before we can complete the assembly
And that's the hole for the dowel handle in the horse's head
Mark and drill the hole according to the project plans
Before inserting the dowel handle, sand the edges
Insert the handle into the hole, offset by about 3 quarters of an inch
Put glue on the offset portion of the handle
Then slide the handle into place and wipe off any excess glue
Now, screw the head to the seat
Fill all the screw holes with dowel plugs or buttons
When the glue is dry, finish sand all of the surfaces
Finally, stain or paint the rocking horse as you wish
And your project is complete
Thank you for watching!
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