Great Chefs video presents Seafood Sampler, a collection of special fish and shellfish dishes prepared by some of America's leading chefs. Thin fish variations open the sampler beginning with Louisiana's favorite redfish. It is deftly handled by New Orleans master Warren LaRue. During the 80s his restaurant was a shrine to extraordinary Creole food and this invention suggests why. It is redfish a la tumero. Redfish fillets will enclose rock lobster tails. First the redfish termino, the name comes from a young French cook who would be wrapped around a shrimp tail or in other cases you can use a baby lobster tail. The fillet is wrapped around the shrimp tail or the lobster tail and you always wrap the skin side of the fish although the skin is taken off. The skin side of the fillet wraps toward the inside of the fish because as the fish cooks it shrinks and forms around the shrimp or the lobster tail. If you do use lobster tail be sure that you use a cold water lobster tail because if you use a warm water lobster tail in this particular dish it tends to overcook. Chopped onion, bay leaf and thyme are added along with slices of tomato, white wine and fish stock. A mixture of bottle clam juice and white wine will substitute for fresh fish stock. After all the fish fillets are wrapped around the lobster tails they are placed in a buttered dish and you pour over white wine or champagne and then the dish is covered with foil or with a glass top or whatever type of means you have to seal the cooking pan because you want the vapor to help to cook the fish. It's placed in a hot oven and it will vary the cooking time from 20 to 25 minutes depending on what type of oven you have. I like to cook fish in very hot temperatures because the faster you cook it the more juicy the fish stays. The red fish rolls go into a 400 degree oven. Here Chef LaRue will make the sauce from scratch with his own fish stock and a reduction of about a half cup of white wine. Note the large bubbles that develop as the wine thickens. For the home cook there is an easier route. The sauce is very simple because we take and make a reduction from the fish stock that remains in the pan after the fish are cooked. You set the stuff fillets to the side and you would take the juices from the cooked fish and reduce that almost until it's a syrup and then add boiled cream and butter to that reduction and it makes a very simple delicious sauce. One and one half cups of whipping cream are reduced by 40 percent. Chef LaRue seasons with salt, white, and cayenne pepper. The cream reduction will be combined with the wine fish stock mixture before a half cup of melted butter finishes an inventive red fish a la Tamarot. If you don't have fresh red fish in your area you can use any fresh salt water fish such as a flounder or you can use a sea trout or you could use a sea bass or it even works very well with fresh haddock or fresh cod. All of these fish are suitable to make this dish. We use red fish because it's a very popular fish, very tasty fish and it was a time of the year when red fish were plentiful and had their best. Jeremiah Tower was a notable and early influence in the development of California cuisine. Today he owns the trendy Stars restaurant in San Francisco. Chef Tower's fish of choice is the Pacific halibut. He'll poach the filets with tomato and basil. The fish I did just because I really wanted to do something with a technique which showed people how to do an infinite variety of things very easily. You can make duck tureens and things and pigeon tureens will take you all day long and those are wonderful. I think in this day and age where people don't realize quite so much as you can make wonderful food very quickly without a lot of cooking effort. So I wanted to show poaching a thin slice of fish which takes just a couple of minutes and draining the fish and then reducing the poaching liquid and then mending it with butter and vegetables, in this case tomatoes and an herb to give it a highlighted flavor. But it could have been tomatoes and mushrooms, it could have been some of the mixed vegetables you see later on that I'm doing with the pork, they could have been thrown in at the last minute. So there really is an infinite variety of sauces made that way in the pan and just poured over and it could have been creamed or butter or egg yolk and cream, all sorts of things. Chef Taro will use fresh ornamental basil and chopped tomatoes. The poaching liquid is fish stock. The Pacific halibut is the largest in a family of flatfish that also includes sole, flounder and turbo. The flesh is white, lean and tender, excellent for poaching. With a bit of butter. Like that, cover with a paper so that the fish remains so it has a chance to evaporate. Very gently. Cover like that. Now you can just directly turn the fire off, just let them sit. and sit for a couple of minutes. The poaching liquid is reduced and the tomatoes and fresh basil with butter complete the sauce. Okay, now we're getting there. Take some tomato, drained like that, chopped up tomato, put that in, some of the purple basil, like that, some butter, quite a bit. Now the secret is to just stir that around with what it makes the steaks. A pinch of salt, a pinch of pepper, and then we're going to put that in. Throw it together. With seafood, catfish rates fifth in popularity nationwide. At Bozo's, one of New Orleans' grand seafood places, fried catfish is a house favorite. Owner Chris Vanonovitz shows why in an example of utter simplicity yielding sensational results. The catfish filets are soaked in ice water before frying. Chris feels that this is vital in producing a crisp outside while preserving juiciness inside. This catfish is not the farm version that comes from Louisiana's big catfish town, Disaliments. No dark secrets with seasoning, just some salt. The catfish is fried in vegetable oil to cover. Chris tests the temperature by tossing some cornmeal into the hot oil. Cornmeal will coat the filets. Here is an important tip. Put the filets into hot oil immediately after coating. See what makes them come out real good is when you put them in as soon as you've read them. Chris says that even a few minutes lost can spoil the consistency of the finished fish. The filets are turned after one minute and then turned back after 30 seconds. One more turn and they're done. Total cooking time is less than two minutes. These are just about ready to come out. So you tip them over for the next, for the third and last time. In one minute they're ready to come out. Now catfish takes an upscale direction in the able hands of Stephen Piles. The Texas-born chef is one of several young Turks currently blazing new trails in American cooking. This time he offers catfish mousse with crawfish. The chef begins by preparing the sauce. His version of the crawfish is a little bit more spicy. The sauce is a little bit more spicy. So he offers catfish mousse with crawfish. The chef begins by preparing the sauce. His version of the classic French sauce, nanchua, utilizing cooked crawfish. The crawfish are processed to form the base of the sauce. The processed shells will be cooked with aromatics. To the same skillet the crawfish were cooked in. We're going to add chopped, one chopped leek, a couple sprigs of fresh thyme, crushed clove of garlic, one medium carrot, one stalk of celery, and about three tablespoons of chopped parsley. Then we're going to add the crushed crawfish body and tail meat or tail shells. Then we're going to deglaze the pan with about six tablespoons of bourbon. If it flames up, that's all right. Let that cook down. Then we're going to add about a cup of white wine, dry white wine. Then we're going to whisk in about a tablespoon and a half of tomato paste. Get that good and dissolved. We're going to let that reduce by half, which takes about two or three minutes. When that's reduced, it should look like this. We're going to add heavy cream, about a cup and a half. Let this simmer seven to ten minutes until thickened. The mixture is then forced through a fine mesh sieve. The finished sauce is seasoned with salt and coarsely ground pepper and reserved while the Cactus Moose is prepared. Here we have eight ounces of fresh catfish fillets that have been chopped about this size. We're going to put those in the processor and blend it until it's smooth. It takes about a minute. Then we're going to take the catfish from the processor and run it through a strainer. Note the chef's use of both a food processor and a food mill. Here's why. To get rid of the sinuous pieces in the fish. Then in a separate bowl, we're going to add one whole egg, one egg yolk, half a cup of heavy cream, and a quarter of a cup of milk. Just whisk that lightly. Then we're going to whisk our catfish into that. You'll notice that sort of a liquidy texture. This is more like a custard actually than a moose. Then we're just going to season it with a little bit of cayenne and some salt. Then we're going to pour that into buttered ramekins. These are about a third cup mold. Fill it about three quarters full. The ramekins are going to go in a pie pan or anything that they will fit in that you can fill water. We've got water here boiling. We're going to add just enough to have it come halfway up the side. This is a piece of parchment paper, but you can use wax paper as well. We're going to cover that and then take a piece of foil and cover that completely so no air escapes. Then this is going to go into a 325 degree oven. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes until the moose is just firm to the touch. Take a little bit of the hot crayfish sauce. Pour the plate around the moose and garnish it with some tail meat on top. Sea food sampler now considers a few of the almost limitless possibilities with shellfish. We begin with the Atlantic blue crab. San Francisco chef Rick O'Connell uses lump crab in a surprising and delicious link up with pasta. This is a pasta called capellini. Capellini is a very fine pasta. There are a lot of different kinds of good capellini around. If you can't find that, you can use vermicelli. I already have this cooked and mixed and then it takes this capellini just a minute to cook. Take it out, drain it and then flush it through cold water to cool it. Once you have done that, you're going to take a couple of green onions and mince them. Use some of the green onions for this as well. This is part of the green part of the onion. You're going to turn all of this into the bowl with the cooled pasta as well as some parmesan cheese. And it should be pulverized and not in long shreds. Some salt, black pepper, use a little bit of cayenne. There will be fresh cayenne in the panache. I'm using blue crab for this. Blue crab is from the East Coast. In California we have Dungeness crab. We're going to use blue crab for this one. This all gets tossed together with three eggs. One, two, three eggs. These have to be deep fried. So as you're doing this, you can break up these little pieces of pasta a little bit, but not too much. Because the best part of these little crab cakes is that they cannot sort of squiggly. You can make these as big as you want to or as small as you want to. For our purposes in the restaurant we make a crab cake that's about this size. Don't press them together, just sort of roll them like this. This is sort of this method of taking a mixture and squeezing it out like this, which looks very bizarre in fact, is how the Chinese make their shrimp balls. The flavors in this are not Chinese, they are anything more southwest. And whenever you do something like this, particularly if it's in a large batch, before you finish what you're doing, throw one into the deep-fat fryer and test it. And if you don't have your fat hot at that time, just put it on a saute pan with some oil so you know the seasoning is correct. Okay, in order to fry the crab balls, fry them at 350 degrees. And I'm going to lower them into this fat. The deep fryer, let them cook just until they're brown. And then when they're done, and they're not done yet, but you can see what's beginning to happen, you want them to be crisper than that. Okay, when they're good and brown, remove them, let them drain a little bit. I'm not going to turn them out. And you have crab balls. And I like them when they look like little creatures out of the deep. The best word I can say is squiggly. But pasta is really quite delicious. I suppose if you want to, you could even use a spicy pasta. I think there's something this large on this plate, maybe three is enough. At their peak, Louisiana's salty oysters alone justify a trip to New Orleans. Chris Vanonovich from Bozo supports this thesis with his perfectly fried oysters. They are presented here as the centerpiece of the venerable New Orleans oyster loaf. As with Bozo's catfish, the shucked oysters are soaked in cold water first, and for the same reason, to maintain firmness during deep frying. After draining, the oysters are tossed in cornmeal and go immediately into the hot oil. With all shellfish, overcooking is always a potential pitfall, but the cornmeal coating will help protect the oysters from the heat. The oil should seal the oysters immediately and return to the correct temperature before frying more batches. These are about to come out. The oysters are cooked in a minute forty-five seconds. Only a little salt is used to season at the end, and a lightly toasted loaf of French bread becomes sort of a trencher. New Orleans lore holds that a husband facing the melancholy prospect of an angry wife can cool her off with one of these. Hence its local and less formal name, the Peacemaker. Of all the sea's bounty, lobster may be the height of luxurious eating. It certainly is if Jean Borchet is doing the cooking. The French dynamo now applies his considerable talent to lobster with noodles and caviar. Alright, we're going to do au pirat de homard for caviar et onouil. Lobster with caviar, fresh noodles, and basil. I will steam the lobster for eight minutes, two and a half pounds lobster. Two and a half pounds lobster. Tail. We will keep this to make a decoration. Cut this in half. Remove the stomach. It's bitter. Tail. We cut it here. The lobster tail and claw meat will be reserved and the shells used for stock to make the sauce. Keep this warm here. Now I'm going to chop the bone. Alright, now. I'm going to put the claw meat in the butter. I'm going to make the sauce. The most important. The pan is hot. I'm going to add the lobster shells. All the shells. Saute it. For five minutes you saute it. Good. When it's sauteed for five minutes, we add the shallots. A little bit of shallots. Fresh tarragon. And we're going to add the lobster. We're going to add the lobster. And the sauce. I'm going to put the fresh tomatoes. To make the sauce. This all going to be strained. And for the color it's good. Saute it for five minutes. All this on the pot. Saute it for five minutes. Amulet of cognac. Cognac. Cherry. And the white wine. I'm going to leave this ready all the way. I'm going to add the cream. Chef Poche adds heavy cream and some gelatinous fish stock. This then is also reduced for five minutes. With a little fish stock. One cup. Put a little seasoning. And leave it cooking. Alright, we're going to make the noodles. When the sauce is cooking I'm going to make the noodles. I'm going to put some cream. To the bottom. How is my finger this professional touch? And I'm going to chop some basil. I'm going to put it inside. Fresh basil will go into heavy cream and butter. Then pre-cooked pasta is added. Put in the cream. Salt and pepper. And the standard sauce. With a fine strainer. This away. The sauce will be ready. Keep it warm. Now we make the noodles. Fresh noodles. Then cook. We reduce the noodles and the cream until the cream is completely cooked. The reserved claw meat is used for garnish. The noodles start getting ready. And the lobster tail is sliced into medallions. And put the medallions around the plate. It's better. I have to put the noodles in the middle. Ok, noodles are ready. Put the noodles in the middle. Put the plate. And the lobster tail. And the lobster tail. And the lobster tail. Put the plate. Now we use the tomatoes. On the center a little bit. Between the medallions. For color. Now we put the caviar. An inch medallion. A little basil leaves. Good. Good. Three times. Music. Music. Music. Music. Music. Music. Music. With a whopping gallon and a half of extra virgin olive oil, a pound of butter is already in the pot. And we'll let this olive oil come to a boil. And we're going to add two pounds of butter. And let it melt. We'll let the olive oil come to a boil. And then we'll add the white wine. In the meantime, we'll season the shrimp. We'll put some bay leaf. Some oregano. Sprinkle it over the top. Rosemary. Salt. A lot of black pepper. Granulated garlic. And a little accent, or MSG. Then we'll toss the shrimp and mix it. You get the seasoning mixed all up in it. With these shrimp, we have the heads on. The heads will give the oil and everything a lot more flavor. You have the fat and all the other contents up in the head of the shrimp, which will give the shrimp a lot more seasoning and a better shrimp flavor. We're going to add the wine. We're almost coming to a boil, so we'll add the wine to it now. A liter of sauternes added. After the olive oil, butter, and wine mixture comes to a boil, the shrimp are added. Remember, this is liquid for 15 pounds of jumbo head on shrimp. Take them. Hmm, it doesn't even smell good. Let's get the rest of this seasoned. Yet another departure from the norm. Seasoning for most sauces or marinade goes into the liquid at the beginning. Here, it is put directly onto the product, then into the boiling liquid. All right, now the shrimp come to a boil. We let them boil for about five minutes. I mean, three to five minutes, like I said before. And then we'll just cut them off and we'll let them soak for about 10, 15 minutes and they'll be ready to eat. And like I said, break out the Italian bread and we're ready. Sous Chef Paul Vigrou has baked dense, flavorful Italian twist bread. The perfect symbiote for the intensely aromatic sauce made even more pungent with the flavor rendered from the shrimp shells and heads. The shrimp are wonderful, but to get the drift of this thing, you need to address the dunking, at least in New Orleans. And that includes in even the fanciest restaurants. Now Chef Donna Norton of Cafe Terracotta in Tucson prepares an elegant finale to the shrimp collection. Prawn stuffed with goat cheese and presented on tomato coulis. We're going to start with this goat cheese stuffing for our prawns. Since the goat cheese is a little strong for very many people's tastes, we cut it with a bit of cream cheese. We use a mixer for this with the paddle. If you try to use the whisk, it just winds around the beaters. If you use a paddle, it helps to break it up. No paper, please. Break it up a little bit as you put it in here, especially if it's cold as this is. A little bit of garlic. Now we use our garlic in this manner because it can be done ahead. And I use about, I'd say a heaping teaspoon here for a clove or so of garlic. This is our chopped cilantro. A little bit of that in. And a little dash of cream only because this is a thick mixture. Start with a little. If you need more, then you add more. Turn it on slowly at first so the cold pieces don't fly out. And then a little bit, a little bit faster, a little bit faster. And then a little bit faster until you get a smooth mixture. For the sauce, peel, seed, and chop tomatoes. Because these will melt as they cook, you don't have to be very precise in the dice that you make. These are actually called tomatoes con cacé. The tomatoes are cooked in olive oil. And whether or not you cover this is really an individual thing. In the restaurant, when we're working very quickly, we don't usually cover our sauces. We cook them on high heat so that the liquid evaporates almost instantly. To make it southwestern, you will add just a little bit of jalapeno. I'm going to add a little bit of that. It will mellow out just slightly if you cook it. If you leave it raw, it will be a little more intensive as far as heat goes. Again, a little cilantro. And as that cooks, it should end up with a little bit of extra liquid. The butter-flied shrimp are prepared for broiling. Just check them over as you just have them facing with their butter-flied stomach up. That will be the area that you fill. Five or six to an order depends on what you're having otherwise in the dinner. Let's put six on here just to show. We cook these for just a couple of minutes, either in the salamander or in the oven. Salamander in a restaurant is intensely hot and will take maybe even less time. Now we're getting some juices out of our tomato. Akuli is a sauce that is a slight bit runny, but not too runny. I don't know how else to explain it. Goat cheese stuffing is piped onto the partially cooked shrimp. It doesn't have to be a fancy tip for all this. It's just easier to pipe mixtures into our food when we're in a hurry. And then back into the salamander for a brief moment to heat it. The sauce. Now would be a good time to put the lime in. And even in modern kitchens these days, we use some gadgets that are very convenient for certain jobs. And this is one that lime juice is added. These look where we need them. And these prawns should not be overcooked. If anything, slightly undercooked. We end up with a more tender prawn. Once they're overcooked, they are rubber. And the prawns themselves can be placed on the tomato sauce. Again, you might find that in an oven, if it takes a little bit longer than it takes in our salamander, you can put a little bit of white wine in your pan, which will help keep the prawns moist. And that's usually the end of it, rather than putting the sauce on top. The last two dishes cover the waterfront, as it were. They are mixed seafood combinations using a rainbow of fish and shellfish. Mark Miller is the savvy and influential owner-chef of Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe and Red Sage in Washington, D.C. He draws on a strong interest in South American food with Yucatan Seafood Stew. The fish in the Yucatan Stew include a type of monkfish called an angler, Pacific rock cod, and tuna. The filleted fish is cubed. A good deal of roasted garlic is used in the stew, along with tomatoes and chilies, blackened on the 4th Street Grill. Mesquite charcoal is used, and the chef feels this gives the stew a tasty authenticity. Much of the cooking in the Yucatan is done over open fire. They say if you do it just perfectly, you should be able to pull the stem out, and the skin and the seeds will all come out. I think that's an old wives' tale. The seeds don't hurt the flavor, it's just an aesthetic, textural point of the stew. Chop the onion and garlic, sweat in olive oil. There's a fair amount of garlic here. This is a part of the essential flavor of the dish, is this cooked garlic. You have to cook the garlic, it's not the same if you don't put the garlic in and roast it first at all. Add a few bay leaves. Add a few allspice that are crushed. Allspice is sort of a Yucatan, we use black pepper, it has a real aromatic sweetness that they like. It can be overused, but I actually like the little nuance that it gives the flavors. This is some calamari, cut them across in small rings. The importance of using seafood stews is the progression of which you add the ingredients to the stew. We have to put the things that need the least amount of cooking in last. That's one of the reasons that most people make a mistake, is that they add the ingredients all at the same time. Or that the really fragile ingredients like the calamari become too rubbery or overcooked. They don't stay in the pot at all, it just comes to a boil and we take it right off and put the calamari in at that point. We'll put the shellfish and the angler, which take the longest time to cook. Then we'll add the more delicate fish like the oysters and the shrimp. The lobster has already been parboiled because we just cook the whole thing, it's easier. And we'll add the calamari at the very, very end with the oysters. Okay, the first thing we're going to add are the clams. These are manila clams, specific sort of hard shell clams. A large bouquet of coriander has already been added. You want to make sure you get all the black parts of the tomato. Grilled tomatoes and fish stock are added. Chicken stock may be substituted. And we'll just cover it, let the clams steam themselves open. And we're beginning to get some nicer rooms. The angler takes the longest of the fish to cook, so we'll add the angler. The angler stays firm so you don't have to worry about it falling apart. Whereas the cod and the tuna become cooked too long, you end up with a mushy fish. And our chilies. The stew simmers for two minutes before the mussels are added. Our clams have opened up, it's got a good rolling boil, so we'll add our mussels. The mussels get tough too if they're added at the same time as the clams. Give it a taste check here. The mussels will, as you can see, they're very, very quick to open. So at this point we're going to add the rest of our fish. The angler, the tuna and the cod. Our lobster. The monoray shrimp. Which have also been precooked because they take a little bit too long in the shell. And they'll take just about two or three minutes to cover up. Okay, and the last ingredients are going to be the oysters. And the calamari. The squid is practically done right now. As soon as it starts cooling itself back by two minutes. Give it one more taste and that's it. Shea Danielle is new to the New Orleans area, but Chef Daniel Bonneau is not. He's one of several first-rate French chefs who've made the city home. For this program, Chef Bonneau offers an original, aptly called Neptune Symphony. It's a tour de force that includes fin fish like salmon, used in a mousse which is encased in circles of Dover sole filet. Garnish features shellfish such as sea scallops, boiled crawfish tails, poached golf shrimp and shoepick caviar from Louisiana. He starts the mousse by processing about nine ounces of cubed salmon filet. By the way, don't operate your processor like this. The chef does it in order to see inside more clearly. He seasons with salt, pepper and a pinch of ground coriander. And then I'm going to add now about one, two, three egg whites. A little over a cup of heavy cream is slowly added. Then the seasoning is adjusted before the final flourish. Some truffle peeling we're just going to add to the mousse. Refrigerate the mousse for at least 20 minutes. The truffle is going to be a fantastic flavor. The truffle is going to be added to the fresh salmon. What we're going to prepare now is filet de Dover sole. Dover sole with the queen of the ocean, I would say. It's one of the best fish not just to cook but also to work with. It's a very easy fish to deal with. The texture is fantastic because you can cook it and it holds very well during the preparation. The top and bottom of the flatfish are skinned and four filets, two per side, are taken. I want to do the same thing on the side. Very difficult to take the skin off when they're fresh like this. Now we're just going to remove the filet. Everything but filets is reserved for stock. Each filet is scored which will prevent curling during cooking. Then they are flattened. The fish you can saute in the air, you can poach, you can grill. It's one of the best. The cool mousse is transferred to a pastry bag then piped into the shaped filets. We just put the mousse in the pastry bag and what we're going to do now is roll the fish and fillet it up with matter of fact. I do the same thing again. The pan has already been buttered and chopped shallots were added. Several butterflied shrimp are poached along with the mousse filled filets. That's it. We're just going to add a bit of white wine, not too much, and cover on the top in the oven. The packages and shrimp poach at 375 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes. A court bouillon for the crawfish is started with boiling water, white wine, whole black pepper, parsley, bay leaf, onion, fresh thyme and carrots. It's cooked 20 minutes before the live crawfish go in. They will cook in 2 or 3 minutes. Incidentally this boiling liquid is considerably tamer than the typical Louisiana concoction which contains everything but the kitchen sink. And is often loaded with cayenne pepper. After the crawfish cool, the tail meat is extracted. The mousse filled sole and the shrimp are done and will be kept warm until service. So you see the dover sole, the filet is holding it perfectly together. Shrimp cooked together with... Chef Bono strains the poaching liquid. It is reduced for the sauce. Meanwhile, scallops are sauteed in hot olive oil. It is important to quickly seal the scallops, top, bottom, and with these large ones even the edges. It will help ensure juiciness. If the temperature is too low, natural liquids drain out, leaving the scallops mushy. So... They're beautiful. After the scallops are finished, chopped baby leeks are sauteed in the same pan with a little more olive oil. The leeks will garnish the finished dish. The pan is deglazed with reducing poaching liquid. When the poaching liquid has reduced by about half, heavy cream is added and this mixture further reduces. The sauce is finished with cold butter. Chef Bono sauces the sole and salmon, then proceeds with a lavish presentation of Neptune Symphony. Choupic caviar is added to the sauce. The final embellishment is more caviar. 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