ージ To travel by train from Exeter all the way to Penzance is an experience never to be forgotten. The rolling green countryside and the dramatic coastal scenery of Devon and Cornwall are rich in history and legend, and there is a great deal more. Our journey begins in the old cathedral city of Exeter. Although much of the town was destroyed in the last war, beautiful buildings and the winding river eggs still combine to create a delightful atmosphere of charm and tranquility. There is plenty to see. First of all is the cathedral itself. The exterior is stunning and the carvings which adorn the west facade are considered to be amongst the finest medieval stonework to have survived. The cathedral was built during the 13th and 14th centuries and the west window displays the delicate touch which was typical of this period. The cathedral close is a delightful part of the city. The leafy green is surrounded by rows of shops whose frontage represents a bewildering variety of architectural styles. Chief amongst the buildings is Moles Coffee House, built in 1596 when coffee had only just been introduced to Britain. The building stands a few yards from one of the taverns Sir Francis Drake frequented. On western way is a ruined church which stands on a bridge now high and dry. Built in 1249 this was Exeter's first bridge. The river still plays an important role in the life of the city. The old harbour buildings have been renovated and reoccupied and pedestrians and cyclists now have a new bridge to themselves. If you love messing about in boats regular trips are available along the river and canal but even if you prefer to stay out of the water you shouldn't miss the maritime museum. Further back into Exeter's history there stands Rougemont Castle built by William the Conqueror shortly after his invasion in 1066. What little remains of the castle itself is now the county court but the surrounding grounds and gardens have their own majesty. The modern shopping centre is both spacious and convenient but Exeter is full of surprises and the romantic flavour of the city is never far away. It's time to leave Exeter now and from St David's station we begin our journey by rail through Devon and on into Cornwall. Regular intercity trains whisk you past the river Ex and on towards this estuary on the English Channel. The first part of the route built by Isambard Kingdon Brunel for the South Devon railway in the 1840s is a masterpiece of railway engineering. Hugging the coast and weaving in and out of tunnels the line along the Red Cliffs south of Exmouth is one of the finest anywhere in the country. Our first stop at a station which backs right onto the beach is at Dawlish. This Victorian resort is famous for its beautiful gardens, cascades and promenades. It's not only the town's emblem the black swan which seems perfectly at home. Palm trees also flourish here. From high up on Lee Mount just to the south of the town you can watch day trippers and fishermen tending their boats. On the same spot there's also splendid bird's eye view of the line and the coast. Leaving Dawlish and the Red Cliffs behind the train runs past Tinmouth and alongside the lovely Taynesse Jewry. Here at the end of British Rail's branch line to Payton is the popular resort of Torbay. Despite its attraction for thousands of holidaymakers most of the bay has remained remarkably unspoiled. Payton itself is a typical British holiday resort. Hotels line the promenade which looks out onto the wide expanse of Torbay. The harbour once home to a fleet of fishing vessels now supports pleasure craft. Along the promenade families are at play in a climate that is almost Mediterranean. The Festival Theatre plays host to professional entertainers while opposite gardeners are kept busy in the many acres of park that line the seafront. This cinema is the oldest in Western Europe. One keen devotee, Dad's army's Bill Pertwee, explains its appeal. Known as the Milch of Versailles and once the home of the sewing machine inventors and manufacturers, the Singer family, Old Way Mansion stands in 17 acres of magnificent grounds. The interior boasts an impressive grand staircase beneath a vaulted ceiling painted in the Italian style. Dating from a much earlier period is Payton's Castle on Tower Road. The next part of our journey is on the Payton and Dartmouth steam railway, a leftover of the old Great Western now run as a private holiday life. The next steam train to Kingswell will be the 230. Calling at Woodland and Sandworth, Strasbourg and Kingswell for Dartmouth. With a manor, a Great Western 460 locomotive built in 1950 falls at rest. Just a short distance away is Goodrington Sands, a totally self-contained beach resort. The largest waterslides in Britain, amusements and beaches provide entertainment for young and old alike. The boating pool at Goodrington Park allows for relaxation at a gentler pace. The steam railway heads for Kingswell along another impressive stretch of line with the Pullman observation coach providing the best views of the scenery. Over residentgate to the current station we Seoul Hideaway. Having passed Churston comes the wooded descent into the Darth Valley and little manner runs along the estuary to the end of the line at Kingsway. It actually benefits the partes technique as well. The wide sweep of the River Dart with its deep central channel has been a natural harbour since Anglo-Saxon times. By the Middle Ages, the export of wool and grain to the Atlantic seaboard of Europe furnished the port with good trade. In 1147, crusades to the Holy Land set sail from these waters, and 200 years later the port was attacked by the French in the 100-year war. The fortifications at the River Mouth played an important role in defending the port. Today, Kingsway is no longer a trading centre, and it's mainly pleasure craft which cruise the safe waters of the River Mouth. The next stage of our journey is by boat, but first we cross the River Dart to have a brief look around Dartmouth. The most complete section of the Old River Front is Bayard's Cove. Many of the houses on the Old River Front date back to the 17th century, their ground floor windows bearing the marks of the shutters used as protection against the violent storms which still roll in from the sea. At the end of the quay is Bayard's Cove Castle, one of the earliest recorded artillery emplacements built by Henry VIII. The grandest building in the Cove is the Old Customs House, rebuilt in 1739. Moving through the narrow streets where the buildings lean at odd angles, almost touching at the eaves, we arrive at the central point of the quay. Here, small boats can shelter against stormy seas in what is known as the boat float. Much of the Old Port was built on reclaimed land in the 16th century, and Duke Street has perhaps the most famous of Dartmouth's houses, known as the Butter Walk. Dating from 1640, the wooden stone carvings on the front of the buildings are typical of Dartmouth work of this period. Primitive but robust. Dartmouth has a long tradition as a naval port. Two wooden hulled warships, Britannia and Hindustan, Mordor Sanke, provided the basis of the first Royal Naval College in 1863. A more permanent building, designed by Sir Aston Webb, the architect responsible for the Victoria and Albert Museum, and the Admiralty Arch in London, was erected on a hill overlooking the river in 1905. Many famous people, including members of the Royal Family, have attended the college throughout its history. On the Quayside, riverboat companies capitalise on the area's fastest growing industry, tourism. A wide variety of cruises and excursions start here at Dartmouth, including our cruise, up the River Dart to Totness. There can be no better way to continue our journey and to enjoy this glorious scenery. glimpse of Agatha Christie's home, now owned by her daughter. In the shade of Totness Castle, there's the opportunity for another short detour, before we finally rejoin British Rail to continue towards Cornwall. At nearby Staberton, the South Devon Railway or Primrose Line. So, by steam train, up the River Dart to Buckfastley. Most people have a soft spot for steam trains, and that's what brings the majority of our visitors to see us, and coupled with the steam trains, we've got some of the most beautiful country scenery that there is in Devon. The railway follows for actually its whole length, the River Dart, and that is possibly one of the most beautiful rivers in the country. The approach to Buckfastley is also the approach to Dartmoor, and both have a great deal to offer. Nestling beneath the moor, Buckfast Abbey is a Benedictine monastery, where a community of 44 monks lead the life of prayer, work, and study. The first monastery, which was founded almost a thousand years ago, was dissolved by Henry VIII. Monks returned to the abbey in 1882, and between 1906 and 1938, they rebuilt the church. Today, the abbey contains examples of some of the finest ecclesiastical craftsmanship in the country. Also settled in the area are the inhabitants of the Dartmoor Otter Sanctuary and the Buckfastley Butterfly Farm. rich Once inside the glass house, it's hard to believe you're not deep in the jungle. It's hard to believe you're not deep in the jungle. Buckfastly sits on the edge of Dartmoor National Park. Famous for its ponies, it's wild and beautiful, and for a while it's possible to share a moment of peace and tranquility with these beautiful creatures. Weathered granite outcrops such as coonstone tour dominate the plateau and the valleys below. Down in the valleys are peaceful nooks and crannies which are every bit as delightful. The meeting of the East and West River Darts has become a popular picnic area. Now we must catch the return train from Buckfastly to continue our journey from Totnes, We are planning a cable-stayed footbridge over the river at Totnes, which is about 196 foot long. It's going to cost us £100,000, but it will enable all our passengers to walk over the bridge and to reach Totnes Town and the British Railway Station. Having emerged from beneath the shadows of Dartmoor, we run on into the famous naval port of Plymouth. Plymouth's connection with the navy go back to before the Armada, and the town and nearby naval yards at Devonport set astride the wide mouth of the River Tamar as it enters Plymouth Sound. Smeaton's tower was moved from the treacherous Eddiston rocks and rebuilt here on the Hull in 1882. Drake also looks out over the Sound as he did over 400 years ago when the Spanish Armada interrupted his game of bowls. Plymouth itself has changed a great deal since Drake's day, but the Hull, even with its war memorial in monuments, is still a wide and open promenade. Nearby is the Plymouth Dome, an award-winning centre which can take you on an extraordinary journey through time, from the sights and smells of Elizabethan Plymouth through the tragic devastation wrought by the Blitz right up to the latest harbour technology. One area of Plymouth which was not rebuilt after the Blitz is the Barbican. Here the Mayflower steps commemorate the departure of the Pilgrim Fathers as they set out to colonise the New World of America in 1620. Their names are recorded nearby. As the Old Town, the Barbican is now fashionable and full of colourful restaurants and pubs. Reminders of the quarter's past connections are never far away, and fresh catches are brought in daily to the bustling fish market. Plymouth's modern shopping centre brings us back to the present before we set off again crossing the River Tamar into Cornwall. Built by Brunel between 1857 and 1859, the Royal Albert Bridge is still an incredible piece of railway engineering, for here the River Tamar is 1,000 feet wide and 70 feet deep. Complementing the bridge are the views out over the dockyards and Plymouth Sound. At Lisgard we leave the main line yet again, this time for a short detour to the fishing resort of Loo. Just behind the busy harbour where gulls clamour for fish are the town's charming narrow streets. White-washed cottages, shops, restaurants and pubs all find shelter here. And if you've come to Loo for the fishing, there's certainly plenty to choose from. A short distance away, in the woods overlooking Loo Bay, is the monkey sanctuary. As I've talked for maybe ten minutes or so, I'll go into the territory, see if any monkeys want to come up and make friends with me and I'll introduce you to them and tell you a little bit about each individual monkey, point out some of the interesting features about them. And then when I've finished talking, we'll be inviting some of the monkeys out into the gardens to be among you. Well, I'll just introduce you to one or two of these monkeys. This one here is Chico. He's a young boy, he's about three and a half. The sanctuary was established in 1964 so that wooly monkeys rescued from lives of isolation in zoos or as pets could live in as natural a community as possible. The sanctuary is the first place where this beautiful species has survived and bred successfully outside its own habitat of the Amazonian rainforest. The main line now heads on into Cornwall, bringing us next to Bodmin Parkway. This British Rail Station is some distance from Bodmin itself, but a steam train from the Bodmin and Wenford Railway is normally waiting for those who want to take a trip up the old branch line to the restored Great Western Station in Bodmin itself. Vintage transport of another kind will take you in style to the gates of nearby Lanhydrock House, arguably the finest country house in the region. This splendid example of 17th century provincial architecture is surrounded by beautiful gardens and set within a vast expanse of landscaped parkland. Behind the house, a small Gothic church looks down on the gardens. A short walk behind the church gives a bird's eye view of the whole estate. Leaving Bodmin Parkway, the line now heads south, passing another notable landmark, the 13th century Castle of Restorment, now in the safekeeping of English heritage. From high on the battlements, a look down on the valley and the trains below, speeding towards our next destination. Turning north at par, the lively North Coast Resort of Newquay. Here, tall cliffs are guarded by buildings, which would be quite at home on the shores of the Mediterranean, while the town itself is perched high above the sea. Newquay is especially famous for its surfing. There are score of shops which cater for the sport, and the famous Fistral Beach is a mecca for all surfers, with Atlantic rollers crashing down on the wide sweep of beach, and each wave just made for riding the waves. But now we must travel back to St Austell and the granite heart of Cornwall, where in nearby Carthew we find the Weal Martin China Clay Museum. The museum gives the visitor a close insight into the history, impact, and current operation of this important Cornish industry. This 35-foot backshot wheel was used to pump slurry from the pits so that the clay could be settled out. A wide range of industrial transport is featured on the history trail, and in the rashly pottery the visitor can buy some of the latest products of the industry. Further up the hill, another restored water wheel is in full working order. The alien landscape is the product of ongoing mining operations. The extraction of the clay has created huge pits, and for miles around the area now resembled the surface of the moon. The clay is mined using monitors, powerful jet pipes which can be directed at the clay to wash it out. The monitors used today are fully remote controlled, but otherwise they're very similar to those now in the museum. Our next stop is Truro, which dates from Norman times. Truro was once an important harbour and the centre of the tin industry. Today the city is regarded as the capital of Corn. Truro's centre is dominated by the 250-foot high towers of the modern cathedral. Although building did not begin until 1879, the cathedral has all the grace and impact of older medieval places of worship. Visitors are often surprised to find that the carvings above the west doorway feature Edward VII. It's well worth saving some time for the Royal Cornwall Museum, with its wealth of displays and information on the history and traditions of the city and the country. Beyond Truro, as the line passes Redruth, the high moor is dotted with the eerie remains of deserted tin mines. Beyond these moors we branch off north to another famous resort, the fishing port of St Ios. Since Victorian times this tranquil bay has been a popular seaside retreat, and it still caters for a wide range of holidaymakers. As the train sweeps along the shores of St Michael's Bay, we're approaching Penzance and journeys end. A few surprises still remain, and none can be more exciting than the first glimpse of St Michael's Mount. This former monastery, perched on its coastal crag, is on an island, joined by a causeway which is submerged at high tide. The ownership and protection of the National Trust ensures that this unforgettable landmark will retain its charm for future generations. We finally arrive in Penzance. This busy port and market town is as far as we can travel by rail, and it's Britain's most southerly railway station. The town, like most in Cornwall, has grown from its maritime associations, and you're never far from the sounds of the sea. The character of Penzance is reflected in its buildings. This wonderful flight of architectural imagination is the Egyptian House on Chapel Street. On the same street, Admiral Benbow's restaurant and the Maritime Museum are also worth a visit. To enter the Maritime Museum is to pass into another world. Beyond Penzance lie the Siliars, several hours away by boat, but just a few minutes by helicopter. Closer to hand, there's still plenty to see. West Penwith is an area of wild beauty. Lanyon Coit is about 4,000 years old, and just one of the many Neolithic monuments in the area. Almost within walking distance is the land's end itself. The rocky promontory has been developed into a busy entertainment complex with exhibitions, shops and play areas. But for many visitors, the main attraction is to be photographed beside the famous signpost. The real land's end is a little further on, so there are horse-drawn carriages and a special land train competing for passengers. Where the land finally plunges into the sea, there are splendid views out over the cliffs. Here at the end of Britain, you might be lucky enough to watch dolphins and porpoises playing at sea. Those with a little extra time to spend exploring the many beautiful beaches and coves will find ample remarks. Just a short distance from land's end is the Minack Theatre and Exhibition Centre. The natural setting provides a stunning backdrop. To attend one of the regular summer performances is an unforgettable finale to an unforgettable journey. For most of them, the with the bishops, the universities, and the parliament of this realm, there is no honor in His Majesty's will be likely to refuse you. And who are you, Darn it? This is disproportionate! We're supposed to be the proud ones, the proud, arrogant, and splenetic ones we've all given in. Why must you stand now? Why must you break my heart?