Hi my name is Nancy Wiseman and I'm the owner of Nancy Knits. I'd like to thank
you for purchasing the Nancy Knits sock video. This is a basic video that will
take you through making a simple sock. You have received a pattern along
with your video. It's the Anne Norling pattern. It gives you the directions for
making socks in three weights of yarn, fingering, sport weight, or worsted weight.
There are many sock patterns available today. Older books that have been
reprinted, some new books from Europe that have many variations in color and
pattern and texture, and a book by the publishers of spin-off which has some
lovely patterns for some very different socks. But a sock pattern is a sock
pattern. There are some heel variations but the basic heel is in the Anne
Norling pattern and so that is the heel that we will be doing. You will find it
is the heel that is used predominantly in most sock patterns. Behind me here
are some beautiful examples of some of the sock yarns that are available today.
These are all fingering weight sock yarns and I recommend that for your first pair
of socks you might want to use the DK sport weight or the worsted weight. It's
a little bit easier to handle and the double pointed needles are larger so it
is a little easier for you to handle the needles if you've never used double
pointed needles before. Many of the sock yarns, the fingering weight ones only,
come with the reinforcing thread. That thread is an extra thread you add in the
heel and the toe of the sock. It just keeps the heel and toe from wearing out
as fast and we'll be using that on this pair of socks I'll be making in the
video so you can see how it goes in. If you're using sock yarn that does not
come with reinforcing thread, it is available in many colors on separate
little cards. It does take one card per sock and you can find a color that
matches whatever yarn you're using for the heel and toe. On the pair of socks
I'll be knitting today I'm going to use worsted weight yarn in two colors. I'm
going to use the pink for the ribbing the heel and the toe and the blue for
the rest of the sock and I'm going to use a size 8 needle. I'm going to use a
set of four because that is what the pattern is based on. There are sets of
five available. They used to be only available in Europe but now they're
becoming more available in the United States but we'll use a set of four. The
socks back here were knitted on size 3 needles as the pattern recommends. I've
now found that I prefer it my socks knitted on size 2. It makes them feel a
little bit better on your foot. It does feel a little bit like gravel if you're
knitted on too loose, if your knitting is too loose or on too large of a needle.
My husband's socks here were done on a 2. This was based on the Anne Norling
pattern with a little bit of variation in the cuff. I did a knit 5 purl 1. You
can do plain stockinette, you can do knit 2 purl 2, knit 1 purl 1, but you do
need to have about an inch and a half of ribbing up at the top. I carried the knit
5 purl 1 all the way down to the toe and it makes a nice elastic sock. This
little lace pair is also based on the Anne Norling pattern but I used knit 2
together, yarn over and a plain knit row in between and just repeated that for
the cuff and the instep of the sock and it makes a nice little lace
pattern. This is a little anklet and it's nice for wearing with loafers and a
pair of pants. Gather up your supplies and come back and we'll get ready to do
your socks.
Okay, so you've gathered up your supplies. You probably noticed in the yardage
requirements on the front of your pattern that it takes about one skein
per sock regardless of what weight of yarn you're using. Since I'm using the
Worsetweight yarn, I'm going to follow the pattern and the numbers under the
letter C, so I need to cast on 40 stitches. You start by casting on to one
needle. I have about 30 stitches on here now and it needs to be loose enough that
it moves easily on the needle. I use the longtail method of cast on. That's just
the method I prefer. There are other methods of casting on that will work. As
long as you can do them loose enough that it moves easily on the needle. If it
isn't loose enough, you won't be able to get your foot through the sock when you
try to put it on. Your heel won't be able to get through if it's too tight. If you
find out that you cast on too tight, then you may need to go to a
larger needle for the cast on and a smaller needle than after that for the
ribbing. I need 40 stitches.
There's my 40 stitches and they move easily on the needle. I need to
distribute these over two more needles so that I can join it up in a
circle. I usually start with the end away from the two yarn tails and transfer
the stitches as if to purl onto another double-pointed needle. Now since I can't
divide 40 stitches equally into three parts, I'm going to put about 14 stitches
on my first needle here. You don't want any twist on these stitches so you
transfer as if to purl and it really doesn't matter that there's not going to
be the same amount on each needle. It's just so that it's as equal as you can
get it on each needle. Well, that's 16, that's all right. And then we take the
next needle and distribute the second third onto it.
I'll put about 12 on that needle, that's pretty even, and sort of scoot them all down to the
middle of the needle. Okay, now we have it distributed over three needles and we
need to then start knitting in a circle. Well, it's actually a triangle on the
needles but it'll turn out a circle. You put the needle with the two yarns
attached in your right hand, which is needle one, and needle three in your left
hand. Scoot everything down to the tip so you can work with it. Pick up your fourth
needle and begin knitting. Put the needle into the first stitch on the third
needle, knitwise, and I usually use the tail and the yarn from the ball and knit
that first stitch with both those tails pulling very, very tightly. You do always
need to pull tightly when you jump from needle to needle or start the beginning
of your sock, right, start the joining up at the beginning of your sock. Okay, I'm
going to do knit two, purl two. You can do knit one, purl one, whichever you
prefer. I like knit two, purl two, it's nice and stretchy. And you're gonna work
across needle three here. It's a little bit awkward, you got all these needle
tips going everywhere. You'll develop your own sense of how to hold these
needles so that they're the tips aren't sticking you and they're not in your way.
Okay, I'm ending two purls here. Shift around to the next needle and I'm going
to put the stitches that I've just knitted in my right hand and with my
fourth needle I'm going to begin by knitting into the first stitch on the
next needle, again pulling very, very tight when I jump from needle to needle.
If you don't pull tight enough you get a little ridge or almost looks like a
little crease in your knitting. And it takes some practice to know just how
tight to pull that. But there is a little trick that I will show you to alleviate
that little line or crease when I get around this first row. I'll show you how
to do that. Okay, so I'm finishing with two purls here. That happens, these needles
just fly all over sometimes. Okay, and this has got to be a knit so again I've
got to pull very, very tightly and it doesn't matter whether you start with
knit or purl at the beginning of a needle. Some people prefer knit, some
people prefer purl and some don't care. Okay, so we're going to get across this
third needle here. Now remember when we joined up we used two threads, the tail
and the yarn from the ball, for that first stitch. We need to then treat that
as one stitch when we come back to it.
Okay, so I'm finishing with two purls which is right. Now this first stitch on
this needle is the one that was done with two threads. So we're going to knit
those two threads together as one stitch, pulling very tightly again because
we're at a connection as well. Makes a little smoother join with those two
threads. Okay, now when we get down to the end of this needle I will show you
how to alleviate that little crease or line that you can get if you don't pull
tight enough between needles.
Okay, so I'm ending with two purls here and I have my empty needle that I'm going
to set down and I'm going to knit the first stitch off this next needle onto
the needle that I've been knitting onto for this last section. And that's shifting
that join area so that you don't get that crease. Then I pick up the fourth
needle and again pulling tightly, knit that first stitch on this needle. Now you
don't need to do this shifting of stitches every row, but you do need to do
it on every needle so that you end up with the same amount of stitches as you
started with on each needle. I do it every three or four rows or so whenever
I think about it. Okay, so then I'm going to set the fourth needle down, knit this
next stitch off that needle, and then start with the fourth needle again,
pulling very tightly to alleviate that crease.
Your tail will show you the beginning where you began knitting if you're
concerned about not being able to tell where you started when you joined your
sock up. The tail will help you determine that, but it's not a real critical point
as you'll see when we start doing your heel. Okay, now this is the last
jump here so that we will have shifted one stitch on on onto all three needles.
So I'm going to knit this stitch onto this needle and I have shifted one
stitch on each needle so that that crease won't show. And again, start
knitting with the fourth needle and continue around. Now you need to decide
how much ribbing you're going to do. The minimum would be about an inch and a
half to hold your sock up. There's nothing more annoying than socks that
don't stay up. If you want to do ribbing all the way to the heel, that's the best
fitting sock, the tightest fitting sock, and that stays up really well. But if you
want to do just a little bit of ribbing and then go to stockinette, do a minimum
of an inch and a half. Then you need to determine how big of a cuff you want. The
little red pair of socks that I showed you, the little anklet, had about a three
inch cuff. The man's pair of socks I showed you had about an eight inch cuff.
Somewhere between three and eight is about right. Seven inches is about right
for women. Eight to nine or so is for for men. If you have a pair of socks that you
like, you might want to measure those and see how long those are and then base
your knitting on that length. But you can kind of play it by ear as you knit your
cuff. Now I'm going to do about an inch and a half in this pink yarn. It's kind
of a purpley pink actually. And then I'm going to switch to blue and do the rest
of my cuff in blue and my heel and my toe will be again in the purplish pink
yarn and the instep of the sock will be in blue. Okay, figure out how much ribbing
you're going to do and how long your cuff is going to be. Get to that point and
come back and we'll do your heel.
Okay, this is my cuff. I knitted an inch and a half in the purpley pink yarn and
about three and a half inches in the blue for a total of about five inches. On
your pattern we're down to the area where it says divide stitches for heel
and it tells us that we need in the worst at weight yarn 20 stitches on
needle one and ten stitches on needle two and three. I usually divide my
stitches up on the last row of my cuff and for in this case I have 16 stitches
on this needle right now and I need to get four more stitches over there so I
need to scoop these down and knit on four more stitches so that that is the
20 stitches for needle one. Okay then for needle two and three I'm supposed
to have ten stitches on needle two and ten on number needle three and I believe
that's what I have right now so two four six eight ten two four six eight ten so
I will just knit across those two and if you needed to if you didn't end up like
I did with the right amount of stitches on the needles then you would just shift
them so you got the correct amount as the pattern tells you. Okay so there's
ten for needle two and this will be ten on needle three.
Now I'm finished with my blue yarn so I've cut that and I'm going to tuck that
into the middle of my sock and I'm going to start using the purpley pink with
yellow reinforcing thread so that should stand out pretty well for you. The
reinforcing thread is carried along with the heel yarn and on row one in the
divide stitch for heel section and it says it's the right side we're supposed
to slip one knit one across we're only going to be working on needle one now
we're not going to work on needle two and three for quite a while now so I've
slipped the first stitch as if to purl and I'm going to connect my thread and
knit the next stitch and then slip one, knit one, slip one, knit one all the way
across so the blue stitches are getting slipped the purple ones are the knits.
That's the thread they're all split there we go knit, slip, knit and as you can see the
reinforcing thread is just being carried along with the heel yarn okay and you
end with a knit now for row two it says and you're going to turn you're going to
slip one purl across so you only slip the first stitch and then purl all the
way across okay then in the directions it says to work for 20 rows this is the
first row of that 20 rows and that's a little bit confusing in the pattern you
don't count row one you count from row two on and you because you need to end
by doing a right side row so that makes the 20 rows okay so I purl across and
that's row one of our 20 and the yellow reinforcing thread is just going along
with us okay then we're back to row one again we're going to slip the first
stitch and knit the next slip the first slip the next stitch and knit slip the
next and knit okay you're always slipping as if to purl when you're doing
these socks okay so this is row two of our 20 now these slip stitches because
they're only getting purled one out of every two rows stand up just a little
higher than the knit and purl stitches do so it makes it a little easier to
count when you're counting your 20 rows if you're not keeping track in your head
or on paper so for each one of those slip stitches it equals two rows so then
we slip and purl across but be sure you get all the reinforcing thread it's
easy to leave behind because it's so tiny and so this is row three of our
20 okay you're going to continue back and forth until you have the correct
amount of rows for the worst at weight here it's the 20 and we're going to end
by working a knit row okay so get that finished and come back and we will turn
your heel
wait this is my completed heel flap this is the 20 rows as you can see the slip
stitches stand up just a little bit more than the stitches that got knitted and
purled so counting those I have ten of them which equals my 20 rows one two
three four five six seven eight nine and one way up there at the needle that
makes my ten now we're going to turn the heel continuing with the purpley pink
yarn and the reinforcing thread I'm supposed to purl to two stitches beyond
center so for me that's 12 stitches so you slip the first stitch and purl 11 in
this case
the heel is turned by working a series of short rows and it's one of those
things that you just have to trust in the pattern it sounds really weird if
you read it ahead of time but it does work let's see is that my 12 2 4 6 8
11 12 and it says purl two together get all that reinforcing thread purl two
together purl one turn
then you slip the first stitch knit five
knit two together knit one and turn
tangled here okay then you slip the first stitch and you purl to within one
stitch of the gap and here's the gap that's where we turned the last time
okay so we're purling to here one stitch before the gap there's the gap
and we're going to purl the two stitches together the one before the gap and the
one after the gap purl one and turn
slip the first stitch now we're going to knit to within one stitch of the gap
and the gap is down here
and we're going to knit the first the stitch before the gap and the stitch
after the gap together knit one and turn we're going to repeat that until
all the stitches on the outside of the gaps are used up so we're slipping that
first stitch and then purling again to one stitch before the gap the gap is
usually pretty obvious it's usually quite a large space between two
stitches so the stitch before the gap and the stitch after the gap purl
together purl one and turn
and you can see we're starting to get a little heel there slip the first stitch
then knit to one stitch before the gap
knit two together knit one turn slip the first stitch purl again to one stitch
before the gap
there's our gap down here this will be the last one we purl two together on
this side purl two together we don't have one we don't have a stitch over
here to purl so we just turn slip the stitch and then knit to the end again
one stitch before the gap
and knit those last two stitches together
and that's how you turn the heel so complete that and then we'll pick up the
stitches for your gusset
here's the finished heel we've turned the heel yours should look very similar
to mine still have needle two and three sitting over here for the instep they're
going to be used very shortly now to clarify terminology the instep means the
part of the sock that goes over the top of your foot your directions now tell
you to pick up stitches along the side of the heel flap to start the gusset at
this point I'm going to go back to my blue thread so I'm going to cut away the
reinforcing thread and the purpley plum thread if you are not changing colors
for your heel you would just cut away the reinforcing thread and it says with
your loose needle to pick up 10 stitches in my case along the side here now you
want to pick up on the very edge of those slip stitches that you did there
you only want to use one thread of the stitch
okay you don't want to use the two because that makes it too bulky for your
heel so just using one thread of your stitch right on the very edge you're
going to knit on 10 stitches and because you have 20 rows you should have 10
stitches sitting there just waiting for you to pick up into them we're going to
go back circular now we're finished going knitting back and forth there's
five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten okay there's our ten stitches down the side of the gusset
now it says to combine needle two and three on to one needle and you want to
put the stitches on needle two on to needle three so that you can use needle
two to knit across so you slip those over as if to purl again so that there's
no twisting on the stitch okay so we're back to where we just finished picking
up the stitches and now we're going to knit across those instep stitches again
pulling very tightly when you make that join right there and we'll knit
across those and there should be 20 of those because as you recall I had 10
stitches on each needle two and three
and this will get us across to the other side of the heel flap where we will pick
up 10 stitches on that side okay now using the empty needle trying to get all
my tails there again picking up on the very edge of the heel flap just using one
thread of that slip stitch pick up and knit your 10 stitches
nine ten okay then it says to knit across half the stitches that are
remaining from turning the heel and I have two four six eight ten twelve so
I'm going to knit across these six onto that one needle there
and then it says to take these last six stitches and shift them to this needle
which is the needle that we started picking stitches up with
again slipping as if to purl so there's no twist on the stitch okay now you have
your stitches back on three needles the center of the heel flap which is where
we turned finished turning the heel is divided over two needles starting here
these are the six stitches of the heel flap the ten stitches we picked up the
twenty stitches of the instep ten stitches we picked up and six stitches we
knitted across the heel flap complete that and we'll come back and do your
gusset
okay using this diagram I'm going to reference it a lot to match the knitting
here that we have the pattern is very specific about needle one needle two and
needle three and you must leave the knitting in on those needles as it is
until you're finished with the gusset you can't do any shifting of stitches
like we did earlier to prevent the little gap because it will throw off the
shaping for the gusset this is needle one this is the first needle we use to
start picking up stitches same as this needle right here needle two is the
needle that's straight across those are the instep stitches that needle doesn't
change there won't be anything going on with that needing it needle except you
will be knitting only on it you will not be decreasing at all needle three here
is along the side that's the last side we picked up you will begin to decrease
at the end of needle one and the beginning of needle three and that's what
shapes the gusset at the end of needle one you knit to three stitches before
the end and you do knit two together
knit one then you knit across needle two and you do knit one slip slip knit at
the beginning of needle three first we're going to do a plain knit row
and to do that I'm going to bring this back and we'll refocus closer and I'm
going to begin knitting across needle one which will just be a plain knit row
no decreasing this is clearly spelled out on your pattern but I think it makes
sense if you have this little diagram you can refer to as you knit across
my reinforcing thread is popping up there okay
okay so this is needle one
and then we're going to knit across needle two that's the instep stitches no
changes take place on needle two that will remain 20 stitches in my case
um
this is the really interesting part of the sock I think it's absolutely amazing
to watch the heel and the gusset take shape and all of a sudden you have a
sock okay and then this is needle three and I'm going to knit across needle three
again pulling tightly when you jump those gaps and here it's really important
since you can't shift any stitches you need to be sure that you're pulling very
very tightly so you don't get a gap along there
okay and then we're back to needle one now this is where we're going to start to
decrease for the gusset so we're going to knit two within three stitches at the
end of needle one
those stitches are a little loose those have tails connected that I will weave
in later and tighten up
okay so I'm three from I'm within three stitches of the end of needle one so I'm
going to knit two together knit one then I'm going to knit across the instep
stitches no decreasing taking place here it's good to have a good an idea of
where you are on the sock it has a little bit of a gap but it's good to have a
good idea of where you are on the sock it helps you to remember when to decrease
I think if you understand what you're trying to shape as you do this and since
this is the part that goes over the top of the foot there's no decreasing
okay
now we're at the beginning of needle three so we're going to do
knit one and slip slip knit and if you haven't done slip slip knit before
you slip two stitches separately as if to knit insert the left needle into the
two of those stitches and knit the two together it's a decrease that slants
toward the left and then you finish knitting on needle three
okay those are the two types of decreases you do to form the gusset on each side of the sock
and part of the reason we're doing this is because we now have more stitches than we
started with because of the heel so we've got a decrease down to the original number of
stitches which in my case is 40 now you do a plain knit row no decreasing okay in between
this is needle one again
I want to get around here again so we can go through those decreases one more time needle one
needle to the instep the part that goes over the top of your foot no decreasing
okay
I'm going pretty faster I know you all know how to knit so you don't really need to
watch this really slowly okay and then we're back to needle three again
okay so we've just about we've completed our plain knit row now we're going to do
another decrease row this is needle one so we're going to do
so we've just about we've completed our plain knit row now we're going to do
another decrease row this is needle one so we are going to do
knit two together knit one at the end so we're going to knit to within three stitches
on the end of the needle
needle knit two together
knit one okay knit two together knit one at the end of needle one this is needle two
again the instep so no decreasing
so
okay then we're back to needle three
where we do another decrease we do
knit one slip slip knit slip two stitches separately as if to knit insert the left
needle into the front and knit the two together and we've completed another round with decreases
you would then do a plain knit row again and then another decrease row a plain knit row and
another decrease until you're back down to the original number of stitches now i had 12 stitches
extra so i would have to complete six decrease rows to be back down to my original number
you just keep doing the same thing a plain knit row and then a decrease row until you're back down
to your original number at that point you continue to knit around plainly until the sock
is about an inch and a half shorter than what you want it you can also use the person's foot if you
want to try it on them to about the base of the toe the big toe is where you want the sock to end
okay do your guess it and then finish the foot of the sock
up to where you're ready to start the toe and we will complete the toe
up
okay this is the completed foot part of my sock i'm about one and a half to two inches away from
the end of the toe about the base of the big toe depending on how long your toes are you can
customize this as you after you make your first pair you will probably see where there are some
changes you could make to make it fit your foot better now for the toe we need to add two more
decreases the needles will still be in the same position as they were for the heel needle one has
10 stitches in my case needle two which is the in step has the 20 stitches and needle three still has
10 stitches and looking at our diagram it remains the same needle one with 10 stitches needle two
with 20 stitches and needle three with 10 stitches this remains the bottom of the
sock or the back of the heel we're going to add these two decreases on needle two now so we're
going to knit to the end of needle one still do knit two together knit one as we did for the heel
but now at the beginning of needle two we're going to do knit one slip slip knit and at the
end of needle two we're going to do knit two together knit one and then at the beginning
of needle three again we will do knit one slip slip knit now to do that
i'm going to be using my purple yarn or my pinky purple yarn again with the reinforcing thread so
if you're using reinforcing thread this is where you need to add it back in
and we're to the part of your pattern where it says toe shaping so on needle one we're to
knit to the end of needle one three stitches from the end of needle one that is okay and then we're
going to do knit two together knit one at the beginning of needle two
this is where we're going to add the decrease now we're going to again pulling very tightly
knit one slip slip knit the two together that's the same decrease you did on the gusset
and then we're going to knit to the end of needle two
and three stitches from the end of needle two we're going to do knit two together
knit one
at the beginning of needle three we're going to do knit one
slip slip knit slip two stitches separately as if to knit and knit the two together
and then knit to the end of needle three
okay we've completed one row of decreasing now for the toe now we're to work a plain
knit row in between
pulling tightly pulling all the tails tightly
okay
and hopefully by now you've gotten a little bit more accustomed to the double pointed needles and
found what's most comfortable for you as far as where to hold them and you've
learned to pull tightly when you jump from needle to needle so you don't get that little gap
especially when you can't be shifting the stitches to adjust for that little gap because on the heel
and the toe you cannot do that
okay and this is needle three
okay now we're back to needle one again and we're going to do one more decrease row
so we're going to knit to within three stitches of the end of needle one
okay three stitches from the end knit two together
knit one
at the beginning of needle two we're going to do knit one slip slip knit knit the two together
knit to within three stitches of the end of needle two
knit two together knit one
okay and at the beginning of needle three we're going to knit one slip slip knit the two together
and finish needle three then we would do a plain knit row again
and you're going to alternate a decrease row a plain knit row a decrease row a plain knit row
until on the worsted weight yarn you have 16 stitches left now if you have a sharper
toe or a point of your foot you can decrease more 16 stitches is really just a guideline
so get down to the end of your toe to your 16 stitches if you're doing the worsted weight
and come back and we will graph the toe
okay here's my 16 stitches for the end of my toe there's four stitches on needle one
eight stitches on needle two and four stitches on needle three needle one and three have remained
at the bottom of the foot since we've done the heel okay the directions say to slip the stitches
um from needle one on to needle three i prefer to knit across those stitches because then it
gets your yarn in the correct position for weaving the seam together at the end of the toe
so we're just going to knit across needle one and get those stitches on to needle three
okay now
here we have eight stitches on each needle you're only going to use those two needles now
then the stitches and the needles remain parallel like that i've cut my thread you need about 18
inches or so to graph the end of the toe i'm going to thread that onto a tapestry needle
continuing to use the reinforcing thread
okay now the instructions are clearly written out on your pattern under the toe shaping section
but you do need to be careful that you keep the thread under the needle so you always want to be
directing the needle under the knitting needles and when it says to direct the tapestry needles
if to knit you treat it as though it were a knitting needle and put it into the stitch
just as though you were going to knit that stitch so you go into the first stitch of the needle
first stitch on the front needle as if to knit and slip that off then you go into the next stitch
on the front needle as if to purl weave it on and pull that tight then you move to the back needle
and you go through the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl it comes off and you go
through the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit it stays on and pull that tight you know
you can adjust this later but it's easier if you sort of keep the tension looking about the same
as the stitches when you knitted them then you go back to the front needle and you go through
the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit it comes off go through the next stitch on
the front needle as if to purl it stays on moving to the back again i'm going to move that yarn up
a little bit moving to the back we go through the first stitch as if to purl slip it off next
stitch on the back needle as if to knit it stays on you've got to adjust that thread a little as
you work back to the front again as if to knit on the first stitch as if to purl on the next stitch
and it stays on then to the back needle as if to purl it comes off and then as if to knit it stays
on and you can just start to see that you get a roll of knitting in there by doing this grafting
or Kitchener stitch it's also called then you go through back to the front again as if to knit take
it off as if to purl leave it on to the back needle again as if to purl take it off as if to knit
leave it on see how my thread went over the needle that's what you don't want it to do so move that
off the needle then back to the front needle again as if to knit take it off as if to purl leave it on
to the back needle as if to purl take it off as if to knit leave it on
to the front again as if to knit take it off as if to purl leave it on to the back again as if to
purl take it off as if to knit leave it on to the front again as if to knit take it off as if to purl
leave it on to the back again as if to purl take it off as if to knit leave it on
knit leave it on
okay and you only have one stitch left on each needle so you just do the first step as if to knit
take it off for the front needle get rid of that needle and pull the thread through and then on the
back as if to purl and it comes off and pull it through and there you can see you have a nice
little row of knitting across the toe of your sock then if you stick your hand through your sock
you want to poke this tail through there poke it down in through the
knitting there pull the tail tight and weave it in and you have finished your sock
you're going to weave in all your ends as invisibly as you can without a lot of bulk
because remember if you're wearing a shoe with this those ends could add thickness that might
wear a blister and here's our finished sock this is a small pair of socks this would be for a child
there you go i hope your sock turned out just as nice
and may all your socks be just as much fun as this one thanks again and happy knitting
so
you