G'day. I'm out here getting a few tips from an expert on how to set craypots and catch
craze. Now you can call these lobsters if you like. They taste the same. But I've got a
theory. To get a feed, you don't always need a craypot. That's what I call a crayfish.
Now what I'm doing here, I've got a pair of pantyhose. Now I've put a weight in it and
I've put some bait in. And my theory is that I can toss this in and get a crayfish. Now
that's the same theory I use in the inland to catch the inland crayfish, the abbeys.
Now I'm going to see if it works. Here, tie this on for me, Stephen. Do you really reckon
this is going to work, Jack? Look, mate, you're going to learn something here. See, you've
got to go with these new ideas. Now I don't think my colleague here is impressed. But
this is the way I catch inland crayfish. Now we won't know until tomorrow until I come
back and have a look. Now that that's organised, I'll show you where we are. I want you to
imagine a line going off our stern, across our wake, over the Southern Ocean, over the
Indian Ocean, across the South Atlantic, right to the coast of South America. This route
we're travelling is exactly the route of the Roaring Forties, this very dangerous sea line
that is 40 degrees south of the equator. Nothing gets in the way of the great seas and the
howling winds of the Roaring Forties. Nothing, that is, until you get to the coast of where
we're heading, King Island.
These are the shallow waters of Bass Strait and really what they're covering was once
a land bridge in ice age times. But when the seas flooded back in, all that was left standing
was the mountain peaks, surrounded by some of the most dangerous sailing waters in the
world, known as Bass Strait.
King is the most isolated of all these islands. Its treacherous rocky coast blocks one third
of the western entrance to Bass Strait. For sailing ships running with the Roaring Forties,
this was often their first sight of land and sometimes their last.
Nowhere along this coast are there any natural harbours. Even here at Currie, the fishing
fleet has to find its way through a narrow entrance surrounded by treacherous reefs.
Once this was the only way you could get to King Island by sea, so not very many people
came here unless they had a very special reason to do so.
That isn't true today. You can get here by air. But it meant for a long time that King
Island was left very much to itself. Over the years, King Island has developed a special
way of its own. Now there's got to be something special about this place because although
it's the most isolated of all the islands, it has the biggest population. Over 2000 people
live on the island. Most of them live in Currie.
The first surprise you get when you get here is how big this place is. Like it's 60 kilometres
long and 20 wide and there's enough roads on it to keep you driving all day.
Believe it or not, this is some of the finest pastoral country in Australia where they produce
top quality beef, top quality dairy cows and fine quality wools.
Most of the roads are protected or sheltered by tea tree scrub or sand dunes and you often
forget where you are. But not for very long.
Even in good weather, this coast looks a dangerous place and believe me it is because the shipwreck
that took place in this bay over 150 years ago is still the biggest disaster in Australian
maritime history.
Almost 70 ships have been wrecked on the reefs around King Island. In fact, over 800 people
have lost their lives, either been drowned or died of exposure when they come ashore.
One night in particular, nearly 400 people lost their lives out here because of one wreck
and the ship was the Kattareke. This all happened on a very stormy night in 1845 and as rough
as the sea was, really human error was the main reason for this shipwreck.
By the time she got to Bass Strait, the Kattareke had been 105 days out of Liverpool, England.
Aboard were 369 passengers and 46 crew, all wet and miserable. The Kattareke for weeks
had been sailing through shocking weather, driving rain and squalls and they had not
seen a sight of land. Worse still, they hadn't seen the sun nor the stars of a night. The
captain wasn't sure of his position. He was afraid he was too close to King Island. Night
was falling so he decided to do the sensible thing and drop anchor and then he did a stupid
thing. He allowed himself to be talked into sailing on. They were only 100 metres offshore
but mountainous seas, driving rain and pitch black night. In the end, out of over 400 people,
only nine made it ashore. This is a tragic story but the most tragic thing about it is
it should have never happened. The captain of the Kattareke had no intention of sailing
on that night but after he'd hoved two, some of his officers said that he'd lost his nerve
and to prove them wrong, he set sail again. But within one hour, they had come to grief
and that very night, nearly 400 people lost their lives. I want to do a painting along
this coast but I'm not going to do it here because this place is too sad for me. But
at the other end of the bay, there is another wreck, the nether bee and I'm going to paint
that. Tuesday 7.30, tune in for the funniest home videos in Australia. It's a fun filled
hour because it's time for another one hour special candid camera on Australia. Candid
camera, Tuesday 7.30 on Channel 10. Spiderweed helps me keep in shape but my family dislike
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Last weekend, one of these people went to the beach for a paddle.
Had a jog with a few mates.
Played with a rubber ducky.
Had dinner with friends.
And saved someone's life.
So, what did you do with your weekend?
The Netherby was a much bigger ship than the Kattareke.
In fact, she carried 500 passengers and crew.
And she struck in the night out on the reef beyond those rocks.
But the Netherby was lucky. She didn't break up.
She was taking water badly.
But the passengers helped demand the pumps.
And by dawn they'd got a line ashore.
And this is the scene as I see it.
It was a remarkable rescue.
A miracle if you like because not one single life was lost.
But what I'm trying to do here is tell the story of three of the passengers.
A woman and her two children came ashore.
They were shivering and she had a red shawl.
And placed it around them to keep them warm.
How do I know it was a red shawl?
This is the original red rug.
That was brought ashore that night in 1866 from the Netherby.
And placed around the two children sitting on the rocks that were cold and shivering.
This today is held as a memento in the local museum.
And you might say, but wouldn't have this been wet?
Of course it was wet.
But one of the remarkable things about wool is that even though it was sopping wet, it would keep you warm.
Now the story of the Netherby did not end there.
There was 500 people on the shore and they were camped in makeshift shelters and tents.
But they did not know where they were.
Now again they were lucky because they had sent a search party north.
And there had been one very big change since the wreck of the Katariki 20 years before.
It took them three days to cover the 40 kilometres to Cape Wickham Light.
But when they got there, there was help.
This great tower had been built five years before.
All the stone for the tower was quarried here and that was no mean feat.
Because it's the tallest tower in the southern hemisphere and I want to climb to the top.
The base of the tower is massive and these walls are three and a half metres thick.
Right, that's it, isn't it?
How many steps, mate?
It's 229, today.
Come on, let's get started.
Could be worse, it could be 230.
Can't be any more, ready to go now, mate?
Ready to go now, too.
There's a lot of history in a climb like this.
When you consider that for nearly 130 years men have been climbing up and down those stairs,
I'll tell you what, it's some climb.
But I think it's worth it when you get here.
Have a look at this.
It's magnificent.
I always thought that lighthouses had really one purpose.
You'd put them somewhere where there was dangerous reefs to warn ships to be careful
and also to give them a bearing.
But they had another very important point.
They always kept six months' supply of food in a place like this when it was unsettled.
Just take the nether bears as an example.
When those survivors got ashore, the whole 500 of them, they came up this coast
and all of a sudden tomorrow morning the lighthouse keeper has 500 extra mouths to feed.
Hence the six months' supply of food. Never knew that.
But of course today Wickham Light is automatic.
But it still has to be maintained.
Before I leave here, there's one other little thing I'd like to show you.
And it's this grave.
Now this is the grave of Captain Branscombe.
Now his ship was wrecked out on this reef.
At about this time in the morning, the ship was on the reef.
And it was a very important point.
It was a very important point.
Now his ship was wrecked out on this reef at about this time of the evening, just on dusk.
And all the passengers and the captain got ashore safely.
Then he decided to go back out to the wreck and get the ship's log and his papers.
And in so doing he drowned.
The Kattarakee was wrecked because somebody suggested the captain was a coward.
Captain Branscombe lost his life for a bundle of papers.
Now what I'm trying to illustrate here is you get all this talk about gales and storms at sea that caused the wrecks.
But I believe often it's because the wreck was wrecked.
I believe often it's because of man himself.
And of course I'm not just telling you that.
I'm really telling me.
Because in the morning I'm going out to check my craypot.
On E Street...
George didn't come home last night.
...Ramuse...
He hasn't turned up for work today.
He went, Abby.
I do love him.
...deception...
It hasn't happened.
I thought you said you got a jam in the car.
Mommy's hurt.
...jealousy...
You're nothing but a cheap pushover and you're a professional virgin.
If I can't have something special, then I'll settle for a good time with whoever's there.
Come home to E Street Wednesday and Thursday, 7.30 on Channel 10.
How much? $17,990. For a Magna?
Look, participating Mitsubishi dealers have slashed the price on all Magna automatics, sedans and wagons.
Hang on. Automatic too?
Yep, free automatic, plus 2.6 litre power, tonnes of room, power, steering.
Australia's most awarded car for $17,990. There's gotta be a catch.
Well, yeah.
Thought so.
You just gotta be quick. All Magnas must go by September the 8th.
So, hi. Where's he gone?
Whenever I dream of horizons
And reach out and touch those endless shores
I'll follow my heart and I will be there
I know I will
I just want to fly, fly away
Oh, you are the pride of the Pacific
You are the one that sets me free
And I can fly higher than an eagle
When you are the wind beneath my wings
That'll be the phone, Rich.
Hello? Huh?
Sounds like the battery, son.
Under the bonnet, son. Bye.
I think city life's made him a bit slower, Marge.
It doesn't take much to keep in touch.
Go on, Bob. Tell him again.
Uh, okay. It's like this. I walk into the kitchen.
There's a cool breeze just teasing the curtains.
I pull on the fridge door. The cold hits me like an iceberg.
And then I see it right up the back behind all the jars and stuff.
I reach in. It's like the South Pole in me.
Grab it. An ice cold can of Coke.
I pop the top. It fizzes up all nice and tingly on me nose.
And when that ice cold Coke hits the back of my throat.
Yeah!
You can't stop it. You can't stop it.
The feeling you get from the Coke of Cola.
Now that's the real thing.
The feeling.
This is the Telecom Australia Boating Weather Service
issued by the Bureau of Integrality,
however, at 7.30 a.m. today and tonight.
Situation at 6 a.m.
Curry, 1,008 hecto pascals rising southwest, 10 knots.
Visibility 10 kilometers.
Cape border, 1,017 hecto pascals rising south, 18 knots.
Moderate sea.
You there, Stephen?
The science of catching crayfish will never become perfect.
But Steve Bishop, who's been fishing bass straight for eight years,
tells me that he keeps daily notes of phases of the moon,
tide changes, wind, anything at all that may help him
understand better when the crayfish are crawling
so that he can get better catches.
These fishermen do not like to take risks,
but as careful as they are, accidents do happen.
Righto.
And in fact, in the last 20 years around King Island,
there has been eight such accidents, shipwrecks,
and in every case it was fishermen.
Now, the sea is the problem for all this.
The unpredictable sea.
And 10-meter waves here are quite common.
In fact, just a little south of here,
where they have a scientific base taking readings
with a boy called the wave rider,
they've recorded seas there over 20 meters.
The highest recordings of anywhere in the world.
And the information that that wave rider supplies
is vital to these fishermen.
And by 2 o'clock in the morning, the wind was,
I'd estimate, about 60 knots, 65 knots it was whistling.
It was just picking water up off the ocean
and just whipping it in.
About every third wave was coming over, over the deck.
And we're in 30 feathers of water, and I felt the boat lift,
so I throttle, straightaway throttle back.
And she went down a wash and started bearing
in the wash ahead of us.
And I went right, probably up, nearly up to the mast in the wave.
And I looked back up behind me and still looked about 15,
18 feet above us, and it was coming down.
It was just breaking, like you see on the beach, just breaking.
I said, oh, Christ, here we go.
But just as it hit the back of the boat,
the nose managed to lift up.
So instead of going in for in, we came over out of it.
I turned to one of the crew at the time,
and he was as white-faced as I was, and I really,
the dry cleaner and I know how close it was.
And I said, this is no place for Mrs Bishop's little boat.
No worries at all, will you?
But they still come out here.
I suppose it's a matter of economics,
because the craze they catch here
bring big prices back on the mainland.
What they're really on about is a treasure hunt,
the treasures of the sea.
And that's what I'm on about,
and I'm going to go back to my pot now.
Look, I've had one. He's just got a one.
Did you see it?
I had one right to the top.
He's just unhooked himself and got off.
Well, you win some and you lose some.
I just lost one.
Now, before we head in,
there's one other thing
Steve Bishop has offered to show me.
Now, this is New Year Island.
It's just off the coast of King Island.
In the 1860s,
even before King Island was settled,
two Chinese landed on this island,
and they started up a market garden.
And when they had a crop to sell,
they'd light a fire and send up smoke
to the passing ships
and then sell their crop to the captain.
Now, this worked very well for a number of years.
Then one of the Chinese got bitten by a tiger snake,
and he died, and it wasn't very long afterwards,
the other one, he left the island.
But when he left, he'd left a very good crop of cabbages,
and over the years, they have evolved into this,
which they call the cabbage trees.
Watch it, Jack. Watch this. Look at that.
You'll notice I didn't grab a stick
and try to club it to death.
That would have been a very foolish act.
Because if you look at the snakebite victims,
they very seldom ever get bitten
by the snake attacking them.
It's always them attacking the snake.
So take my tip, don't do it.
And besides that, they're protected.
I'm legally not allowed to do it.
So you remember that. Leave them alone.
There's a little bit more to that cabbage tree story.
Some of the fishermen on the island have told me
that over on this island,
these cabbage trees go to 20 feet in height.
Now, I've been over this island,
and I haven't found one near that height.
And I really think that it might be
one of those fishermen stories.
What do you think?
Everything I've shown you so far
has had something to do with the sea.
And I thought it's about time
I showed you one of the other faces of King Island.
Where I am here is right over on the east coast of King Island.
In fact, the sea's just over there.
Now, that tunnel is the start of 4 kilometres of roads
right down to the work face.
And where they're carting this ore from
is 300 metres below sea level.
In fact, some of the tunnels go out under the sea.
And where I am here is 50 metres below sea level.
What they mine here is sheelite,
and they've mined it here for 70-odd years.
Now, sheelite is the natural form of tungsten,
and tungsten is a very special metal.
It has the highest melting point of all known metals,
and so it has some special applications.
Most light bulb filaments are made of tungsten.
So are high-speed cutting tools,
because if you want to cut something hard,
you have to use something harder.
But the real use of tungsten is in the strategic field.
Tungsten is essential to the manufacture
of most of the equipment and weapons of modern war.
It's not because tungsten only has military uses,
but it's only in the time of war
that the major powers choose to draw on a supplier's remote as this.
A few years ago, you could read in any guidebook
that this mine was the mainstay of the economy of King Island.
At the moment, more than half the houses
in the township of Grassy are empty.
The mine is still operating,
but nobody can say for sure for how much longer.
If it has to close,
King Island will not only be left with a big hole in the ground,
but a big hole in its economy.
And because of that, the economy of the island,
the way the whole place works, is worth looking at.
Getting this bread reminds me of when I was a lad,
when I would go to get the bread and then eat the middle out of it
and then get a whack behind the ear when I got home.
Now, this is beautiful bread,
and everybody on the island takes it for granted.
You can always get bread here.
But on an island, really, you can't take anything for granted,
especially the staff of life.
In the early days, if you wanted a loaf of bread,
you baked it yourself.
That's providing someone had remembered
to order the flour from the mainland
and then someone else had remembered to load it onto the ship.
And then, of course, if the ship managed to get into the port,
you had your loaf of bread.
These days, things are not so bad,
but it's very expensive to bring anything from the mainland.
Because markets are remote,
starting a new industry on King Island isn't easy.
Neither is rescuing an old one.
A few years ago, a local dairy industry nearly collapsed,
trying to do what mainland farmers could do more cheaply.
But lately, they've started taking a new approach,
and it's paying off.
The entire output of King Island dairy farms
is now going into products like these.
Gourmet lines of butter and cream and particularly cheese.
Products designed to compete not with the mainland,
but with imports from Europe.
And suddenly, the freight costs from here don't seem too bad,
any more than it does for Steve Bishop's craze.
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Oh, hello. Sorry to bother.
You know my brother, Mr. Bishop.
You know my brother in Nalesworth.
But you don't know La Lounge is uptown.
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On an island of 2,000 people, there are over 200 clubs and organisations.
Now, most of these are essential, but nearly all of them are voluntary.
Now, the point I'm trying to make here is living on an island is an isolated existence.
So everybody who lives on an island is a part of the island.
And the island is an isolated existence.
So everybody has to buck in and help each other out.
People say the first lesson you learn when you come to King Island
is that you must rely on your own initiative.
I wonder how many people realise what they're looking at when they see this.
This has been one of the great success stories of King Island.
It just shows that in bad economic times,
when farmers were forced to earn an extra dollar,
they've gone out and harvested this stuff.
The majority of us, every day of our life,
either eat, drink or wear a derivative that comes out of this.
For this is bull kelp.
The giant bull kelp grows in vast underwater forests
off the northern coast of Tasmania.
And when the rough seas tear it loose from the bottom,
it invariably washes up onto the beaches.
15 years ago, this industry did not exist.
And a lot of the locals say that they were very lucky that it turned up.
But in actual fact, they created this industry.
It was created by people looking for something to keep them going in the bad times.
For Sue Cullen, it's a good way to supplement her family income.
I've been carting more or less 10 years on and off
when I need to sort of get out there and need the new washing machine or whatever.
I don't mind getting wet for that.
But it's quite good. It's a pretty free sort of life.
You can be home at three when the children come from school,
and that's the important thing.
Now as it happens, certain seed weeds are the only source of what is called alginates,
tasteless, harmless thickening agents.
Now they are used in everything from jelly and ice cream to paint and toothpaste.
And bull kelp like this is the richest source of all.
It takes two weeks hanging like this to get the kelp dry enough to be treated.
It gets shredded and then kiln dried.
And this is how it finishes up.
But guess where it goes to be refined?
Scotland.
But some of it finishes up back here in the end.
Beautiful.
I mean, it's obvious we both like him.
The twins fight over Adam Willis.
I'm the one he thought he was asking out.
He's got your argument already.
We both like you, Adam, and that's the problem.
It complicates things.
And Cody learns the truth about her past.
This letter's got an address.
Cody, you can't.
I have to know, Todd.
I need to know who my mother is.
What if this woman's my real mother?
Who knows what's going to happen?
So what are you going to say to your mum when you made her?
Rivalry and a mystery solved on Neighbours, weeknights at 7 on 10.
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Have a look at that. Isn't that magic?
That is a magic sight. Beautiful prime beef. Beautiful.
This really is the big success story of King Island, their beef industry.
In fact, the Islanders claim that they have the best beef in Australia.
And they get no argument from me over that. It is magnificent.
And when I had it for dinner the other night, it wins hands down.
Magnificent stuff.
The first people to come to the Island were not the farmers and the settlers, but sealers.
And here, like everywhere else in Bass Strait, it wasn't long before the seal colonies were all killed out.
And this business stopped.
But some of the sealers settled here on the Island.
And to earn a living they would go catching possums and wallabies and even salvaging some of the stuff off the wrecks.
And probably even a little bit of smuggling on the side.
Now this was before Tasmania and Victoria were even settled.
And what I'm doing here today, I'm going out to see one of the real characters of the Island.
Anybody home?
Ah, good on you mate. How are you?
Jack, come in.
Brady Crack is one of the Island's pioneer cattlemen.
He was born here, in fact, in 1911.
And he assures me that he wishes to die.
And that he is a man of the land.
And that he is a man of the land.
And that he is a man of the land.
And that he is a man of the land.
And that he is a man of the land.
And that he is a man of the land.
Like all original Islanders, he remembers the bygone era.
If anything went wrong, your neighbours came to help you.
If you was crook, I helped you.
And if I was crook, you come and help me.
My mother only went to curry once a month.
And she used to get a seven pound tin of treacle, seven pound tin of golden syrup,
and grow some matches and great big packets of candles.
She made everything, the bread, the biscuits, the buns, cakes and everything.
And I think I would be round about 23 before I ever remember eating baker's bread.
When we were kids, we used to hop through the window and pinch the apples.
My nephew, who used to live with us, happened to look in a packet and see what he thought was chocolates.
Anyhow, he got these chocolates and brought them out to us and we all had a feed, or a couple each.
They weren't chocolates, they were laxettes. Mum didn't have to ask who pinched the chocolates, she knew.
We were very busy boys, I'll tell you.
If anyone's a farmer, King Island's a paradise. You've got grass 12 months of the year and you don't get droughts.
I've seen it get dry, but I've never seen people's cattle die in the water and stuff like that.
I've never seen it in my life.
Old timers like Brady prefer not to drive. But anyhow, when you've got scenery like this, who would want to drive?
A motor car, as far as I can see, it's just a motor car with a horse that's starting to look at it.
I can't drive a motor car, I can't drive a tractor. A motor car, well I suppose they're alright,
but when they get bogged, you can't do nothing with them. The horse has sort of been part of my life.
Just look at those cattle. Don't they look marvellous?
And the reason for this is a story in itself, centred around a man called Giles.
Now he brought his cattle ashore, on the southern end of the island, at a place called Surprise Bay.
But to Giles' surprise when he got here, there was a very good pasture here from a plant called Melalot.
And the theory is, the seeds contained in the straw mattresses which were washed ashore from the shipwrecks,
were credited with the introduction of Melalot to King Island.
There's never been a rabbit, as far as I know there's never been foxes on King Island.
The pastures and grass and everything's improved.
I think that the land here would be an equivalent to any land that I've seen in Tasmania or Victoria.
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Yes, he cares about the things we do. And he cares about the things we say.
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Isn't that just magic? Sprucing up the kettle.
Now there's a very good reason for this. As today is a special day.
The only day the whole island stops. For today is King Island's annual show.
Everyone brings their cattle and their produce to exhibit. And it is magnificent produce.
As behind all the hard work and the smiles lies the serious business of farming.
That's a bit of fat there. That one laying down is too fat. That's a good cow there.
You're always looking for this nice flat across here.
But the show is not only about cattle.
There's everything you'd expect to find and a few things you might not find anywhere else.
Look at the normal onion. Have a look at the King Island onions. Marvelous.
Look at the size of the thing.
Nearly everything is judged. Wool, flowers and of course the cakes.
I'll just have a little taste of that. Because I want to find out what the filling is.
That's not going to do your figure any good.
I've seen it a lot. They wrote me in to judge their art show.
That's more interesting. Because they're showing the light source and they're knocking it right down.
There it is. There's no argument about it. I think this bloke has got a lot of talent.
But it's not all serious. People come here really to have a good time.
And a chance to have a go. And age doesn't seem to matter.
Now as it happens I'm not a bad shot. So I'm going to have a go at this.
Really as I walk around here the thing that hits me most is that this is about a family get together.
A family reunion where neighbours and families and relations all come together in a marvellous picnic atmosphere.
And this is what this show is all about. You get this marvellous feeling of comradeship and friendship.
And you can hardly realise that really you're only one hour out of Melbourne.
And if people never leave this island then they will never be amongst strangers simply because everybody hears they're friends.
Now it's back to business. Brady's mob is being joked.
And he's told me quite confidentially that these cows are his best chance of winning a prize.
Brady came out alright but then at this show everyone is a winner.
Even if the local politician is having a hard time getting a kiss.
I might get a double hitter here. There you are, I think you better have that. Get us a kiss first Ashley.
And my golly if you let me down with a kiss I'm going to go very disappointed.
You're my last chance I can tell you. Congratulations and very well done.
Thank you guys.