Thank you for choosing a genomic surgeon.
This instructional video has been produced to help you learn the features of your new
machine and the various stitches and techniques that it offers.
The new machine trims, seams and overcasts in one easy operation, cutting your work time
in half and giving you that truly professional finish.
Switch the machine on by pressing the power switch located on the right side of the machine.
To thread your machine, first extend the thread guide bar to its highest position and place
good quality threads onto the spool pins.
Raise the presser foot.
This allows the thread to be inserted easily between the tension discs when threading.
Next, slide the looper cover to the right and pull it open.
Threading works from right to left and there is a convenient threading chart inside the
looper cover.
When threading the lower looper, the pretension slider must be in the left position for standard
surging and the changeable thread guide must be set in the highest position.
Take the thread from the right hand spool pin and following the green threading diagram,
draw the thread through the right hand guide on the thread guide bar from back to front.
Using the tweezers supplied, insert the thread through the left hole of the thread guide
plate from back to front, then back over the top and through the right hand hole from back
to front.
Lead the thread towards you and down through the tension assembly.
Always make sure the thread is correctly inserted between the tension discs by holding both
ends and tugging gently.
Now pass the thread down through the right side of the looper thread guide bar, then
pull it into the changeable thread guide, next through the looper thread take up lever
and then through the first lower looper thread guide.
Turn the balance wheel towards you until the lower looper is in its extreme right position.
Push up the first lower looper thread guide.
Pass the thread through the second lower looper thread guide and then through the third lower
looper guide.
Now take the thread, pass it through the eye of the lower looper and pull towards the back.
Take the thread from the second spool pin and following the red threading diagram, draw
the thread through the second guide on the thread guide bar from back to front.
Insert the thread through the left hole of the thread guide plate from back to front,
then back over the top and through the right hand hole from back to front.
Lead the thread towards you and down through the tension assembly.
Make sure the thread is correctly inserted between the tension discs.
Now pass the thread down through the left side of the looper thread guide bar and through
the next guide marked red.
Turn the balance wheel towards you until the needles are in their lowest position.
Insert the thread behind the wire thread guide and pass it through the eye of the upper looper
from front to back.
Return the needles to their highest position.
Close the cover and place the threads under the foot to the left.
Take the thread from the third spool pin and follow the blue threading diagram.
Draw the thread through the third guide on the thread guide bar from back to front.
Insert the thread through the left hole of the thread guide plate from back to front,
then back over the top and through the right hand hole from back to front.
Lead the thread towards you and down through the tension assembly, then under the right
needle thread guide and over the take up lever thread guide from right to left.
Slot the thread into the right side of the needle thread guide and then behind the needle
bar thread guide.
Now pass it through the eye of the right hand needle from front to back and finally under
the foot.
To thread the left hand needle, take the thread from the left hand spool pin and follow the
orange threading diagram.
Draw the thread through the left hand guide on the thread guide bar from back to front.
Insert the thread through the left hole of the thread guide plate from back to front,
then back over the top and through the right hand hole from back to front.
Lead the thread towards you and down through the tension assembly, then under the thread
guide and slide it over the take up lever thread guide from right to left.
Slot the thread into the left side of the needle thread guide and then behind the needle
bar thread guide.
Now pass it through the eye of the left hand needle from front to back and finally under
the foot.
It is not necessary to rethread your machine when changing threads.
Simply cut the thread you wish to remove and tie on your new thread.
Now pull the old thread through, easing the knot through the tension unit until the new
thread appears under the foot.
Now that you have successfully threaded your serger, ensure all the threads are under the
presser foot and to the left.
Now lower the presser foot.
Ensure all four thread tension dials are set at three.
Fine tuning of these settings may be required depending on types of fabric and thread being
used.
Holding all threads, start to sew slowly, allowing the threads to form a chain.
It is important to note that the seam line is where the left needle enters the fabric,
not where the blade cuts the excess away.
To sew a seam, insert the fabric under the toe of the foot and start to sew.
It is not necessary to raise the foot unless you are using very thick fabric.
When you get to the end of a seam, keep the foot control depressed and continue sewing,
gently pulling the fabric out to the rear of your machine.
This is called chaining off.
Cut the thread with a thread cutter located on the left side of the needle bar.
To alter the stitch length, turn the stitch length dial located on the right hand side
of your machine.
A lower number will give you a shorter stitch length, which is suitable for finer fabrics.
A higher number will give you a longer stitch, more suitable for heavier fabrics.
Your serger is equipped with a differential feed mechanism, which is designed to help
you cope with a wide variety of fabrics.
The regulating dial is located under the stitch length dial on the right hand side of your
machine.
Lightweight fabrics have a tendency to contract when sewn, causing seams to pucker.
When sewing lightweight fabrics, set the differential feed dial between 1.0 and 0.5 for a perfect
finish.
Knitted fabrics have a tendency to stretch when sewn, causing the seam to wave.
With these fabrics, set the differential feed dial to between 1.0 and 2.25 for a perfect
finish.
Your serger will enable you to sew a narrow or wide three thread overlock stitch.
To sew a wide three thread stitch, remove the right hand needle and its thread.
To sew a narrow three thread stitch, remove the left hand needle and its thread.
A rolled hem can add that professional finish to bed and table linens and bridle and evening
wear.
To sew a rolled hem, open the looper and side covers and disengage the cutting blade by
pulling the white knob to the left and pulling it down.
Then, whilst pushing in the cutting width dial, slide the needle plate setting knob
to R. Now reengage the cutting blade.
Only the right hand needle is used for rolled hem.
Set the stitch length dial to position R and fine tune this to suit your thread and fabric.
Set the lower looper pre-tension slider to the rolled hem position.
Fine tuning of the tension dials may be required depending on the fabric and thread being used.
Now chain off.
Place your fabric under the foot and sew.
Your machine can also be used for two thread serging.
First, attach the spreader by putting the tip of the spreader into the rear of the hole
on the upper looper and then sliding it down into the holder.
For regular two thread serging, use only the left hand needle and the lower looper thread.
The lower looper pre-tension slider must be set at standard and the changeable thread
guide must be in the lower position at two.
To remove the spreader, pull the tab on the holder lightly towards you.
Then push the bottom of the spreader upwards and pull it out.
Ribbing is used for cuffs and bands on leisure and sportswear.
For most garments, ribbing should be cut one third smaller than the garment it's being
attached to.
Seam the ribbing ends together.
Next, divide the ribbing into quarters and pin it to the garment.
Because you will be sewing in a circular manner, cut a small square of material from the seam
allowance at the starting point.
Place the cut up against the blade and sew around the seam, gently stretching the ribbing
at the same time.
Be sure to remove the pins before they reach the knife blades.
Lace is easily sewn onto lingerie and all types of ladieswear, giving that very professional
finish.
Cut the lace to the same length as the fabric.
Set the machine for three thread serging and set the stitched length dial to three.
Now place the lace and fabric with right sides together under the presser foot and sew, trimming
away the raw edges.
Finally, press the seam allowance towards the garment to give a perfect finish.
Automatic gathering on fine lightweight fabrics is easy, using four thread serging.
Set the differential feed to between 2.0 and 2.25, depending on the fabric and amount of
gathering desired.
Place your fabric under the presser foot and sew, trimming off the excess.
If more gathers are required, increase the needle tensions.
A plain overlock stitch can be used to decorate your garment or finish your craft work attractively.
Using the standard or wide three thread stitch, simply sew along the edge of the fabric using
various decorative threads on the upper looper.
Flat lock seams are used as a decorative finish on leisure and sportswear.
Set your machine for three thread serging by removing the right hand needle.
Set your left needle tension to zero, upper looper tension to three and lower looper tension
to nine.
Now set your stitch length at three.
Your tension settings may vary according to type of fabric and thread used.
Place the two pieces of fabric, wrong sides together, under the presser foot and sew.
When completed, gently pull the two pieces of fabric until the seam lies flat.
When sewing a flat lock seam, a more attractive finish is achieved by threading the upper
looper with a heavier or decorative thread.
There is a wide range of optional feet and attachments you can use with your new serger
to help you bring variety and creativity to your sewing.
Turn the balance wheel towards you until the needles are at their highest point.
Using the side cover and taking the gathering attachment, rotate the arm towards you.
Loosen the set screw and slide the gathering attachment through the slot and onto the machine
from right to left and tighten the screw.
Tighten the thumb screw and raise the arm until you can rotate it onto the needle plate.
Set the bottom of the arm to the height of the feed dogs and then tighten the thumb screw.
Set the thread tensions for normal serging and the differential feed dial to one.
Move the gathering arm towards you and place two pieces of fabric right sides together
underneath the presser foot and sew slowly for two or three stitches.
Ensure the needle is piercing the fabric, then raise the presser foot.
Insert the arm between the two pieces of fabric.
Set the differential dial to between 1.5 and 2.25.
Now lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
The bottom fabric will be gathered and attached to the top fabric, which will remain flat.
This foot is extremely useful when inserting nylon fishing line for bridle and evening
wear.
Set the machine for rolled hem sewing and use woolly nylon or decorative thread in the
upper looper.
Next, set the stitch length at approximately R, depending on the thread being used, and
the differential feed at 1.0.
Insert fishing line into the guide on the cording foot.
Then attach the foot to the machine, pulling a length of line behind the foot.
The fishing line used should be approximately 20 pounds or 9 kilograms breaking strain.
Place the fabric or tool under the foot and sew.
The fishing line will automatically feed into the rolled hem as you stitch.
When you come to the end of the fabric, leave a long length of fishing line attached.
You can now stretch your fabric, taking in more line and giving you a greater lettuce
leaf edge.
To use the elastic gathering attachment, first open the side cover.
Loosen the set screw and slide the attaching plate through the slot and onto the set screw.
Push the snap to the left and raise the holding plate.
This enables you to match the line on the supporting plate to the right hand line on
the needle plate.
Tighten the set screw and close the side cover.
Place your elastic under the holding plate, matching the right hand edge with the line
on the supporting foot.
Lower the holding plate and secure the end with the snap.
Move the slide plate across, up to the left hand edge of the elastic.
Turning the thumb screw clockwise will increase the amount of gather.
Set the thread tensions for standard four thread serging and set the stitch length dial
between four and five.
Place the fabric underneath the elastic and the foot.
Lower the foot and sew.
Remove the presser foot and attach the piping foot.
Set the machine for standard four thread serging or three thread serging using only the left
needle.
Lay the piping cord onto the wrong side of your bias strip and fold over.
Place the piping strip to the edge of the fabric, right side uppermost.
Slide it under the foot until the fabric touches the upper knife.
Lower the foot, making sure that the piping cord sits under the groove on the left hand
side of the piping foot.
This can also be used when inserting the piping between two layers of fabric, right sides
together.
To attach the cloth guide, open the side cover and loosen the set screw.
Slide the attachment plate onto the set screw from right to left as far as possible and
tighten the set screw.
Loosen the adjusting screw and position the cloth guide level with the surface of the
needle plate.
Tighten the adjusting screw and close the side cover.
The cloth guide will enable you to maintain a constant seam width.
It is also a very useful guide when flat locking on the fold and when doing pin tucking.
When using this cording foot, a padded rolled hem can be achieved which looks great on table
linens.
Remove the presser foot and attach the cording foot.
Set the chaining finger to R as for rolled hemming.
Set the lower knife to its furthest right position and reactivate the upper knife.
Remove the right hand needle and set the tensions as for rolled hemming.
Set the stitch length dial at R. Insert the cord into the cord guide and into the groove
under the foot, pulling the cord to the back.
Place the fabric on the top of the cord just in front of the upper knife.
Make sure that the cord is under the indicating line on the foot and start sewing slowly.
Using woolly nylon thread through the upper looper will give a heavier finish to the edge.
To use the beading attachment, remove the right hand needle.
Remove the presser foot and attach the beading foot.
Tighten the side and looper covers.
Deactivate the upper knife and set the chaining finger at R. Loosen the set screw and slide
the beading attachment onto the screw from right to left.
Tighten the set screw.
Tighten the side and looper covers.
Set the left needle tension at 1, the upper looper tension at 3 and the lower looper tension
at 7.
Now set the stitch length to between 3 and 4.
This setting will vary dependent upon the size of beads you are using.
Place the strung beads in the channel on the beading attachment and pull to the back of
the foot.
Cover the foot and sew 2 to 3 stitches to secure.
To attach beads to a finished edge, raise the presser foot and place on the edge of
the fabric so that the needle will drop 1.0 to 1.5 mm from the edge.
Sew along the edge to give you a beautiful finish.
To use the blind hem foot, first remove the left hand needle.
Attach the blind hem foot and set the machine for standard 3 thread serging.
Set the stitch length dial at 4 to 5 depending on the fabric being sewn.
Fold the hem up and back and press the fabric with the raw edge of the seam extending 1
cm or 3 eighths of an inch beyond the fold.
Place the fabric under the foot with the cloth guide up against the fold of the fabric.
Sew a few stitches then turn the adjusting screw to reposition so that the needle just
pierces the fold of the fabric.
As you sew, keep the folded edge up to the cloth guide.
When you have finished your hem, fold back the fabric and press.
The stitching should barely show through on the right side.
To attach the taping attachment, first remove the faceplate screw at the rear of the machine.
Secure the tape reel on the faceplate and replace the screw.
Insert your tape into the slot on the left hand side of the tape holder from the inside
outwards.
Holding onto the end of the tape, turn the knob and wind the tape onto the taping reel.
Remove the presser foot and attach the taping foot leaving it in its raised position.
Insert the tape into the guiding hole on the reel arm.
Then insert it into the groove on the taping foot, pulling the tape to the back under the
foot.
Set your machine for standard four thread serging and place your fabric under the foot.
Remove any slack in the tape by turning the knob on the taping reel gently away from you.
Start to sew slowly.
This is useful for taping shoulder seams in knitted fabrics to prevent stretching.
The taping attachment can also be used in conjunction with the cording foot for easy
feeding of cords.
Your serger uses ball point needles size 11 or 14 depending on your fabric.
For high quality stitching, change your needles regularly.
Ensure you insert the new needle to its highest position with the flat side to the back of
the machine.
Regular maintenance will ensure your machine runs trouble free for many years.
Clean around the loopers and knife with a lint brush and oil your machine as recommended
by your instruction book.
For the added protection when carrying your machine, take a look at the optional genome
A tapestry style carry bag with built in accessory pocket.