We're flying, everyone.
We shouldn't have known this idea would exist,
but as far as I know, it's a great stretch.
It's a great stretch.
We should have known this would exist
20 seconds ago,
and if we were out of the book,
we would have needed it.
It's our 16th event,
because we're the last team in round two.
We have 15 more meetings in round number three.
Hello, my name is Kurt Hustin.
We're going to show you the carburetor adjustments
This is the idle air adjustment.
This is the bottom end fuel adjustment.
And this is the top end fuel adjustment.
If you have the team associated ready to run GT,
the carburetor adjustment points look like this.
This is your idle speed adjustment.
This is your low speed mixture adjustment.
And this is your high speed mixture adjustment.
This is the air cleaner assembly.
This is the air cleaner adapter,
the air cleaner,
and the pre-filter.
The ready to run GT comes with a slightly different
air filter configuration.
There's a rubber housing,
and two foam filter elements.
The black one goes on top of the white one.
Refer to your quick start guide for tips
on applying pre-filter oil.
The first thing we're going to do
is put the adapter on the carburetor.
The next step is to put on the air filter.
We picked out a smaller air filter
that actually has more paper and more pleats
and does a better cleaning job
than some of the bigger air filters.
The next we recommend putting on a wire tie
over the adapter to the carburetor
to help it stay in place.
And also around the air filter on the adapter.
You never want to run your motor
without an air cleaner on there.
The air cleaner should be on there tight,
not to fall off. It should do this.
The next thing to go on is the pre-filter.
We're going to put on some associated
special pre-filter oil.
And you're going to put it on a little bit
all over and work it in with your fingers
as not to get too much or too little in there.
Just work it in.
And then you're ready to go.
Make sure you pull it down all the way
over the paper so nothing is showing.
Proper filter maintenance is a must.
The air filter must be clean to ensure
proper performance and engine life.
What you don't want to do is clean
your air filter by blowing from the outside.
This blows all the dirt into the air filter.
What you want to do is blow the air cleaner
from the inside out.
Be careful not to put the nozzle
right up to the filter because
it'll blow it apart.
Hold it back and blow into it.
That'll blow all the air from the inside out
and the dirt will come out.
The air cleaner can only be cleaned
a couple times and we recommend replacing it.
We recommend cleaning your pre-filter
very often because this collects
most of your dirt.
For you racers, we recommend cleaning
your pre-filter between every heat.
It would be best if you keep a few spares
already lubed up, that way you don't have
to clean them between runs.
We recommend cleaning your pre-filter
by pouring fuel into a pan and soaking
the filter in it, squeezing it, working out
all the oil and all the dirt that's
built up in there.
After it's clean,
wring it out, get all the fuel out
as best as you can.
Then dry it off with a paper towel.
Try and get it as dry as you can.
Then let it sit and air dry.
After it dries, we recommend using
the associated pre-filter oil
to lube it up, just like I showed you earlier.
We're going to show you the carburetor
and brake linkage and show you the proper
way that it should be hooked up.
This is the carburetor right here.
It's in the closed position.
The transmitter and the radio in the car
is on, and you can see where the linkage
is hooked up to the carburetor
with the ball joint.
As you move down farther, there's a set collar
and then a throttle return spring.
Throttle return spring should have just
enough pressure to keep the carburetor
closed when it's on idle.
As you go farther down, there's another collar
that should have about a sixteenth of an inch gap,
and that leaves a little bit of room for
when you pull on the throttle and open it up,
it leaves room for the brake to release,
which I'll tell you about later.
This is the brake arm, which also has
a set collar on it, which has a gap
between it and the brake arm itself
that goes through the transmission
has about a sixteenth of an inch gap there.
Next is a brake spring, which has a little bit
of pressure on it just to get the truck to stop.
You don't need a lot of pressure, just a little bit,
which you'll find when you're running it you can adjust.
This is the nut that you use to adjust it.
Screwing it in tighter squeezes down on the spring more.
Loosening it up makes the spring looser,
which gives you less brakes.
This is the throttle linkage with the carburetor closed,
and as you open up the throttle,
this should go all the way open without
any extra tension on the throttle carburetor arm.
Set your endpoints on your transmitter
so that you don't overextend it and bend that plastic arm.
It should just go wide open, and same thing
when you release it, it should go all the way back.
Now the brake arm should work the same way.
When it's fully open, the brake arm should push back
and release the brake, and as you let the throttle
go down to idle, the brake spring should have
a little bit of pressure to hold the brakes on.
This is the carburetor and throttle linkage
in the neutral position, and right now there should
be just a little bit of pressure on the brakes
just to hold the car still.
As you pull the throttle open just a little bit,
you see the carburetor open,
the brakes should be spinning free.
That way when the motor is trying to go,
the brakes are free.
If you have it adjusted wrong, the motor will be trying to go
and the brakes will be trying to make it stop,
and you'll burn out the clutch.
So just make sure that when the motors part open,
the brakes should be free all the way through the linkage.
So where it's wide open, it should spin free.
The throttle and brake linkages for the ready-to-run GT
look very similar, and it works much the same.
Here's the throttle linkage,
and here's the brake linkage.
We put the body on the truck, and we want to show you
three important cutouts that we have to do on the body
for clearance reasons.
One of the most important things that you need to cut out
is the front windshield.
If you're just going to be playing around the street,
not racing, it's best if you can cut out most of the front windshield
and the side windshields also.
That'll give plenty of air traveling through the body
and into the motor, which will keep it cool.
If you're going to be racing, part of the rules are
you can only cut out half of the front windshield.
So normally you want to cut out this side here,
so the air can go right through here into the motor.
This side has to be solid to put the number on there.
You can still cut out the side windows.
Another thing you want to do is trim the body a little bit
right here to clear for the exhaust pipe coming out.
That way you won't have the body covering up the hole,
which will make problems tuning your motor
and give you performance problems.
Another thing you want to do is also trim the back bed
of the body out to give clearance for the air filter
and the heat sink.
That'll give you room to have fresh air going into the air cleaner
and cool air going into the heat sink
and also so you can put your glow plug through there.
One of the optional parts that you can get for the truck body
is this rear spoiler, which gives you a little bit more rear traction.
If you're going to be racing, I suggest using it.
This gives you a little bit more traction, a little bit better handling.
Hi, I'm Cliff Lett with Team Associated,
and I'm going to help you learn a little bit about the way we suggest
starting your car, glow plug procedures to check and see if it's good,
checking the fuel tank, just general setup information.
The first thing I'd like to talk to you about is a little bit about safety.
Whenever you're running your truck,
never run your truck on the street like you'll see us running here.
We're going to be using this only for setup procedures
and to teach you how to tune the engine
so you can hear actually what the engine's doing when we make the changes.
So to reiterate that, please don't run your truck in the street
where it'll endanger yourself or any other vehicles or people riding by.
The first thing we're going to cover is the glow plug.
We're going to show you a couple different ways to check and see
if the glow plug's good, what it looks like when it's glowing correctly.
What we're going to do here is all of our testing
and information we're going to give you here
is going to be done without the body on the truck.
So I'm going to take the body off,
and we'll go ahead and take the glow plug out.
What we use is a five-sixteenths nut driver.
Okay, we're going to take the glow plug out by using this five-sixteenths nut driver.
I'll tilt it over so I don't drop the glow plug.
As you can see, there's a little copper washer that goes around the glow plug.
Don't lose that. You need to put that back in.
So I'll lay that right here on the head.
Okay, the glow plug has a little wire element that has the glow,
and that's what keeps the engine alive and running.
What we use to start that with is this is a McDaniel RC glow start nice starter,
and it has a little meter here at the top.
It's a really nice one, and we suggest using this because what this will do,
it will tell you if the glow plug's good or bad,
and I'll show you what it looks like when it's glowing.
I put this in the end, and the little wire, as you can see, glows orange,
and that's what keeps the engine alive and running.
Next thing we're going to do is talk a little bit about the fuel tank,
and before we put fuel in, I want to tell you a couple features about the fuel tank.
The way we design this tank, it uses a centered, clunk-type fuel filter
so that all the fuel that leaves the tank and goes into the carburetor is clean and pure.
Also, the tank is always pressurized by the exhaust system,
and we use this small silicone tube, which comes from the exhaust muffler,
goes through a couple loops.
It's important to have these loops in there.
And pressurizes the tank right here in the center into this fitting.
The way that it's pressurized is called the chicken hopper type,
and I know that sounds a little funny, but that's exactly the way it works,
and without getting into great detail,
what it does is it keeps the pressure consistent in the tank throughout the entire fuel tank.
As the fuel level goes down, the pressure stays relatively consistent.
That way it keeps your carburation settings from changing while you're running the car.
What Cliff is doing now is he's going to screw in the air,
and you can hear the idle go up.
That's going faster by screwing the air screw in.
Okay, now he's going to screw it back so that it doesn't move.
Now he's going to screw it back so that it's back where he started,
and you can hear the idle.
That's what happens if you back the air screw out, the engine will die.
Cliff is going to richen up the bottom end so you can see what it sounds like when it gets too rich.
Here it starts to slow down.
Now that's because it was just simply too rich on the bottom end and it died from too much fuel.
We leaned it back down to three-quarters of a turn that he had richened it up.
Now it's idling right, listen to it, and then we're going to lean it down and listen to it speed up.
It started to speed up and then it got too lean and then it died.
Those are the sounds that you need to be aware of.
Cliff richened the bottom end back up one-half turn that he had leaned it down before and now it's idling okay again.
That's what it sounds like when it gets too rich.
Okay now richen the top end up.
Okay now Cliff is richening up the top end so you can hear what it sounds like when it's too rich on the top end.
Okay now Cliff is going to lean it back down to where it was before and make the run.
You can see when it was too rich it ran but it did not have much speed or power.
Now Cliff is leaning the top end so you can see what happens when you go too lean.
Great, that couldn't be better.
That was definitely too lean, that's what happens when you go too lean.
The next thing we want to show you is how to adjust the slipper and the easiest way to do that is to set it towards too loose
and let you hear what it sounds like when the slipper is slipping too much.
That's what it sounds like when it's too loose.
That was a good one.
Okay.
Did you grip it down there?
Now I'm going to show you the proper procedure for starting with a hand starter.
As you can see we have a 12-volt hand starter here which is available from just about any hobby shop
and this is a rechargeable gel cell battery.
First thing we're going to do is we're going to turn the transmitter on.
The second thing we're going to do is plug the car in and turn the radio on in the car.
You never want to start your car without the radio turned on.
Then put your nice starter on, lean the car up, holding it from the rear,
and start it by pushing the button on the hand starter
and putting it against the flywheel through the hole in the bottom of the chassis.
As soon as the engine starts, set the hand starter down, pick up your transmitter
and give it about a tenth of a throttle, just a little bit of a throttle to raise the RPM up
and get it cleaned out long enough to sit it back down and take your glow starter off.
This is another starting procedure that most likely your serious racers would use.
This is a starter box which is manufactured and built by a couple manufacturers here in the United States.
The way this works is underneath there's a button here which as you push the chassis down,
it depresses this button and turns a starter motor which is mounted in the top plate of this box.
It turns this wheel and it depresses against the flywheel through the hole in the bottom of the chassis,
much like the hand starter.
The advantage to using a box like this is it's very quick and easy.
You can keep one hand on your transmitter at all times
and you would have the glow starter on the glow plug, push down on all of it
and it would depress the button and start the engine.
The advantage here again is you have your hand on the transmitter
so you can give it a little bit of throttle and keep the engine running.
For the serious racer, there's several advantages to using this type of starting procedure.
One being you can remove your pull starter which is less weight,
would keep the center of gravity lower in your truck,
and also it would allow you to run a low-bend type exhaust system.
Now we're going to show you three starting procedures that we recommend for the RC-10 GT.
The first one is using the pull start assembly.
The pull starter, which Curtis is going to show you here, varies in length from motor to motor.
This one here is quite long. Some of them are shorter than this.
So you want to keep in mind not pull the cord too far.
It will damage the pull start and could easily pull the rope right out of the starter.
We're going to demonstrate this starting procedure now with the pull start.
When you're using this method, it's good to have two people,
one person to operate the radio, the driver,
and the other person to pull the starter and hold the glow nice starter on.
This allows the driver to give it a little bit of throttle
and usually hold the throttle for about 30 seconds once it starts.
This allows the engine to warm up and get up to operating temperature so you can start driving it.
We're going to go ahead and do this now.
Normally they start really easy.
One of the last important things we want to tell you about is how to turn your truck off.
Most of us all know how to turn a switch off and turn a transmitter off,
but it's the order in which you do it.
You always want to turn the truck off first.
The reason is if you turn your transmitter off first, your radio is still connected in your car.
Before doing any of this, you want to shut the engine off.
Leave your transmitter on, leave your car on, turn the engine off.
And we never stick your fingers in above the car anywhere
because they could get caught in a gear and you could cut yourself or hurt yourself.
Once the engine is not running, then you can turn the car off
simply by either unplugging it like we have here or by turning a switch off, which may be in your car.
The last thing you do is turn off running, then you can turn the car off.
Now that we've given you all this information about your RC-10 GT,
we hope you have a lot of fun with it, a lot of safe fun,
and are very successful in your racing if you're going to race it.
We've had a lot of fun designing it and working with it through the entire process,
and we know we're going to have a lot of fun with it.
Good luck. Good luck.
Music
Under way.
Your top qualifiers, Mark Pavitis in the front followed by Brian Kinwall,
Greg O'Dap is third, Saxton Ford, Billy Easton fifth, Derek Ratani sixth,
Greg Degani, Austin Vorg, John Anderson, and Ron Rosetti.
Alright, pit crews, looks like everyone's on the grid.
We have our turn marks with pit crews release the trucks.
Once again, the main event underway.
The leader, sure leader, truck one.
Greg O'Dap second in the three, Derek Ratani,
he's struggling with sixth and third, Austin Vorg in the eight,
there comes the drifter in the back, and Ron Rosetti,
Degani, Billy Easton, Brian Kinwall, and John Anderson.
A few trucks tailing in the back of the pack.
And it is the number one truck trying to hang onto the lead
as the number three truck coming up on them.
The four, over the triples.
Three on the course, truck number one comes in for fuel,
one with the two, two and one, in for fuel,
and out of the pit right next to each other.
Ratani's going to take over the third spot, so six, one, and two,
that is the battle for third.
Degani, you've got faster traffic or faster cars.
Thank you, Degani.
Degani, on it.
Here comes the number four truck.
Number four truck trying to get past the number three.
Three, that is the leader right behind him.
Trevita's taking on the second, Don Anderson,
in the number nine is third,
and Grego Gaff in the number three is her fourth spot on the course.
1.30, enough to go in this 45-minute main event.
Yeah, that was a one-minute show.
That's a one-minute to go in this race.
And if Richard Saks is hanging onto the lead right now,
March will beat it.
Only a few seconds behind Don Anderson in the third spot.
What's the decision?
Is Grego Gaff.
Brian Kimmel, Derek Ratani off to fourth.
We're on Rosetti, Billy Easton, and Grego Gaff.
He rounds out the field.
30 seconds, driver, 30 seconds.
20 seconds, driver, 20 seconds.
And 10 seconds on the clock, five seconds.
That is time.
Nine, you're done.
Right on the line, 45 minutes.
Zero is done.
Six is finished.
And the 96th world champion is Richard Saks.
Truck number four and three is done.
One will finish for second.
Two is done.
And the eighth, that is eighth race.
We need the top four in tech, please.
Top four, that is Richard Saks and Mark Barita,
Don Anderson, and Grego Gaff.
Top four in tech.
Can you believe it?
Anderson and Grego Gaff.
Nine minutes.
I went eight and a half.
I don't know.
How long, hey, Regan, how long did it go that one time?
How long were those stops?
And I felt it.
I'm like, oh, I'm coming in.
The longest one was almost nine and a half.
Yeah.
They were long, weren't they?
I went nine.
Right on, dude.
Thank God for mileage.
Mark, Mark.
I went nine.
Awesome comebacks, man.
I felt that Regan lost track or something.
Oh, man, it was, whee.
And I go, oh, I'm coming in.
Heard it.
It's that mobile gas.
Good stuff.
Extra strength.
The problem was the pit stops were so quick
that I had to tell you to squeeze the throttle
because if you run over, you're going to make it.
I was hating it, really.
Well, the track was so bad that I figured
you were going slow anyways.
He did awesome.
Yeah, I can't believe it.
I thought he was going to make it.
Mark's out.
I don't know if I got you.
Did you see my first lap?
I took off the start and ran into the cone.
Right there.
I saw that.
I saw that.
I saw that.
I saw that.
I think.
I think.