But he must have had some quality of leadership.
So I'm going to go ahead and talk.
You know, what's about his nature?
Well, we know something.
I can speculate a little bit.
One of the interesting things about Edison,
because of his story,
is that we don't know everything.
And in Edison's case...
In this tele-lesson,
you are going to learn the operation,
maintenance and repair of Hobart slicers.
You will also learn
what slicer owners look for in a slicer
and how you can help them meet their expectations.
Let's begin.
This is the Model 410.
This slicer is horizontally fed.
This means that the knife is positioned vertically
and that the product is fed to the knife
at a 90-degree angle.
The 10-inch diameter knife
is driven by a direct-drive motor,
available with various electrical specifications.
The electrical information is found on the data plate.
The carriage tray is operated manually.
Gentle but steady pressure is required
to feed the product to the knife.
The thickness of the slices
is controlled with a lever.
The indexing graduations allow the operator
to repeat the same slice thickness
time after time.
Its capacity is limited
because of the small knife diameter.
There are no accessories available
for the 410.
The Model 610
is a compact, space-saving design.
It is a gravity feed slicer.
This means the knife is set
at an angle to the work surface.
Gravity will help feed the product
to the knife.
The product is fed at 90 degrees
to the knife.
The 10-inch diameter knife
is remotely driven.
The carriage is operated manually.
Slice thickness is controlled with a knob.
Indexing graduations
provide the operator
with the ability to obtain
the same slice thickness time after time.
Its capacity is limited
because of the small knife diameter.
There are no accessories available
for the Model 610.
Busier operations
need a machine with greater capacity.
A machine with a bigger knife
so it can handle larger pieces of product.
Their choice would be the Model 512.
The last two digits
in the slicer model numbers
indicate the knife diameter in inches.
The Models 410 and 610
have a 10-inch diameter knife.
The knife on the 512
is 12 inches in diameter.
The knife is set at an angle
to the work surface.
And the product is again fed
at 90 degrees to the knife.
The 512 slicer
has a dial control
to set the slice thickness.
Carriage tray is manually operated.
The Model 1612
is a heavy-duty
angle-fed slicer
built to handle demanding high-volume use.
The 1612 carriage
is also manually operated.
These accessories
are called fences.
They mount on the carriage tray
and make the slicer even more productive.
The USO
fences offers two, three
or even more slices per carriage stroke
when slicing tomatoes, oranges,
potatoes and other vegetables.
The fences must be set
so that the product is guided
but not so tight that it
is pinched or restricting the gravity feed.
All of the product within
a fence should be the same size.
Another accessory
is the food chute.
The food chute is used in place of the carriage tray
when slicing cabbage, lettuce,
celery and many other products.
The heavy pusher
plate is ideal for preventing
small products from bouncing around.
These
accessories are also available for
the 512, which we discussed
earlier, and the 1712
slicer, which we will look at now.
The carriage tray on
the 1712 can be operated
manually or
can work at two automatic speeds.
The slower speed of
36 strokes per minute is used
for normal cutting. The higher
speed of 51 strokes per minute
is used on firmer products
where accurate even slices are
not required. Cheese
products tend to stick to the knife
resulting in the slices tearing.
This problem can be reduced
by using the slow speed and
chilling the product to increase the firmness.
The higher speed is great
for use with a food chute.
Hot meat tends
to stick to the carriage tray.
The gravity feed becomes less reliable.
A heavy handle is an option
that helps for gravity feeding.
The 1712R
has an indexing screw that
helps push products like roast beef
down to the knife.
The meat is held from the top
by a meat grip and a
fence is used to keep the product in position
on the return stroke of the carriage.
Music
During the course of this lesson, we will
point out safety precautions.
Observe them during the lesson and
remember them when you are servicing the equipment.
If you see an operator
using unsafe procedures,
warn them and demonstrate the correct
way to use the machine, store
the machine or clean the machine.
First, let's look at the machine
condition when it is not in use.
All of the slicers have
knife guards. They should be installed
correctly and removed only when
cleaning or servicing.
The front edge of the knife is guarded by
the gauge plate. When the index
knob or lever in the case of the 410
is at or below zero,
the knife is guarded.
When not in use, the knife
guards should be installed.
And the index knob set at zero
so the gauge plate covers
the front of the knife.
The machine must be cleaned and serviced.
During this time, some of the
safety features are removed.
This means that you must be even
more careful.
Turn off the machine and unplug it from
the power source. If the machine
is hardwired, find the circuit
breaker, turn it off and place
the tag on the breaker, indicating
the equipment is being worked on.
You must never release the machine to
the customer unless all the
safety devices are in place
and functioning.
Now, let's take a closer look at the machine.
This is the meat grip.
The meat grip,
with its weight, is used
to assist in the feeding of the
product to the knife.
Some meat grips have pronged
meat holders to grip the meat from the top.
They can be retracted out of
the way when not needed.
The meat grip can be pivoted to store
out of the way, or it can
swing into position for use.
It slides on a rod and has
sleeve bearings pressed into the grip
arm. If the movement
is binding, probably cleaning will
fix the problem, but occasionally
the bearing will require replacement,
particularly if high acid products
such as tomatoes are sliced
or a hard cleanser is used for cleaning.
The meat grip is
secured to the rod in a slightly
different manner on the various models.
The 16-12 and
17-12 use hardware
at the end of the rod.
On the 5-12 and 6-10,
the rod itself must be removed.
The knurled knob makes that easy.
Don't lose the spacers
that prevent the meat grip from touching
the knife and guard.
On the 4-10, there is
a screw to lock the rod in place.
The screw threads are
in the rod, not in the casting.
The carriage tray is used
to support the product and carry it
through the slicing stroke.
It is easily removed.
The 16-12 and the 17-12
have a side cover.
With it removed, you can see the carriage tray
support and the bearing assembly.
The two pieces are bolted together.
The bearing assembly
enables the carriage tray to move smoothly
back and forth on the slide
rod. Additional support
and stability is provided
by a second slide rod.
On the 4-10, 6-10,
and 5-12,
the support and bearing assembly are
one piece. The 6-10
and 5-12 use a slide bar
instead of a slide rod as
the auxiliary support.
The actuating unit for automatic
operation of the 17-12
is bolted to the bearing assembly.
Each slide rod
is secured with one bolt on each end.
Remove
the lower slide rod first.
Watch for the two bumper washers
and the two Roulon plugs which act
as a bearing for the upper slide rod.
You must support the bearing assembly and
rod as you remove the two bolts.
The slide rod in the
5-12 is removable
in a similar manner. Remove
the two rod mounting bolts.
Hold the carriage sub-assembly
onto the rod and then
remove the rod.
The slide rod in the 6-10
is secured with a screw at both ends.
Remove either screw and slide the rod
out.
Each slide rod on the model 4-10
is secured with a single mounting bolt
at one end only.
Remove the mounting screws.
Hold the carriage tray support assembly
and slide each rod out of the housing.
Remember,
the slicers you have seen are different
models. Still,
there is a great similarity from one model
to the other.
Now, refer to the instruction sheet for
Phase 1 found in the student packet.
When you have completed
the required work, return to the
tape for Phase 2.
The next area
that we are going to examine
is the shaft and hub assembly.
First, we remove the knife.
Use caution because the knife
can be razor sharp.
Remove the knife guards.
We're using the
17-12, but the 16-12
is similar.
The knife is now exposed.
Carefully tape the exposed knife edge.
Use a
1-1-1-8 inch socket
or an open end wrench
to remove this screw.
Don't use an adjustable wrench or anything
else that slips easily.
A lot of sockets are not usable
unless you grind down the end
below the bevels.
If we just try to turn the screw,
the blade will turn also.
So, use a sharp blow
with a hammer to loosen the screw.
With the screw
removed, open the gauge plate
wide and use both hands
to remove the knife.
Lay the flat side of the knife
on a clean, flat surface.
The Model 5-12
knife guard is removed
by backing out the knob
and then removing the guard and shaft.
The knife is
held in place by three screws.
The Model 6-10
knife guard is removed by backing
out the locking knob and shaft.
The knife is held
in place by three screws.
The Model 4-10
has a center cover plate over the
three mounting screws.
The plate should only be hand tight,
but if you have trouble, use a glancing
blow with a rubber hammer to help.
Since there is no guard to cover the screws,
the plate prevents particles of food
product from collecting in the screw
slots. The knife guard
is in two pieces and can be removed
after releasing the latch.
After removing
four screws, the hub and shaft assembly
can be removed.
The 17-12
will have oil in the knife shaft cavity,
while the 4-10, 5-12
and 16-12 use grease.
Always refer to the lubrication manual
for the correct lubricant for the
machine that you are working on.
Here are the three hub assemblies
for comparison. All have a
gear that is driven by a worm gear on the
motor shaft.
The 17-12 knife shaft has two
bearings. The upper bearing is
pressed onto the shaft and will require
a press or gear puller to remove.
Before disassembly,
be sure to identify the side of
the gear that faces the bearing.
The gear will go either direction,
but, if turned over,
will many times be noisy because
of the wear pattern between the teeth.
You can also
get a noisy machine if you replace
either this gear or the one
on the motor shaft without replacing
the other.
When reassembling the parts,
you can get this nut too tight.
This binds the bearing, causing
noise and excessive wear.
Tighten the nut until you start to
feel a bind when you turn the gear
and then back off until the gear
turns smoothly.
The 5-12 has spacers in two different
locations. The upper spacers
are used to adjust the knife height
to prevent rub on the knife guard.
The lower spacers are used to
position the gear for quiet
operation and to control end play.
The assembly is held
together with a true arc ring
and the lower part of the shaft
is the bearing surface to give the unit
stability.
The 4-10 unit uses a wavy
washer to preload the shaft
and older units use a split nut
as a locking device.
Either nut should only be tight enough
to start to compress the wavy washer.
To remove the knife shaft assembly on the
6-10, remove the bottom cover.
There's one screw and two nuts holding
it.
Disconnect the power cord leads.
Disconnect the motor leads from the on-off switch.
Loosen the belt adjusting nut.
Remove the belt adjusting assembly.
Remove the bottom cover support nuts and
washers.
Remove the nuts and washers that fasten the motor.
Then remove the motor.
The fasteners used on the 6-10
require metric wrenches.
Loosen the screw and remove the shaft extension.
Remove the metric set screw.
With a brass punch and hammer, drive the
knife shaft assembly out of the slicer.
The parts consist of the hub, bearings,
snap rings, shaft and possibly
some spacers.
Power is transmitted from the motor to
the hub by way of a special belt.
The service manual has
detailed instructions for removing these
parts and should be referred to
when servicing the 6-10.
Now that you've had a chance
to see these units and understand
how they work, go to
your instruction sheet for phase two.
...
The 1712 and the 1712R
do one thing that our other slicers
don't. They work automatically.
In order to do this, they have
some parts that are not needed on the
other units. The base unit
provides the room to accommodate the gear
case. Remove the two
safety plates. They are here to prevent
your fingers from getting pinched.
This is the oil drain plug
and this is the oil fill plug.
Our unit has already been drained
in order to save time.
The gear case unit has to be
removed to accomplish almost
all repairs. First,
you must disconnect this spring
and remove one nut
from the shifter rod.
Then remove the bolts from the
gear case.
As you can see,
the gear case is really self-contained
with this worm gear meshing with the gear
on the motor shaft and transferring
power to the gear case.
These two large gears are
driven all the time, but
this shaft is only connected to one
of the gears at a time.
The shaft is connected to a
gear using a diving key.
The position of the shifter
yoke determines at which speed the
machine will operate.
Note, when disassembling,
be sure this set screw is
backed well away from the shaft.
There is a small o-ring that could be
damaged when the shaft is moved in and out.
The critical part of
reassembly is to ensure that
the spring is in position
and the dog on the diving key
is in the hole in the sleeve.
The oil pump
is rather unique. These
two gears are immersed in oil.
As they turn, there is a pumping
action caused by the teeth meshing.
Oil is forced up this tube
and lubricates the worm gear,
the hub assembly gear, and the gear
on the motor shaft.
There is only one
adjustment in this area of the machine.
The length of the shifter rod.
When properly
adjusted and the control knob is in
the normal position, the carriage should
operate in slow speed.
And when the control knob is in the
notched position, the carriage should
operate in high speed.
If you were careful during
disassembly, you wouldn't allow
this nut to move.
Then, no adjustment would be required.
How do you know
that adjustment is required?
Jerky,
erratic movement of the carriage, and a
clicking noise. The noise is caused
by the diving key trying to engage
a gear.
The rod should be positioned so that the notch
is straight up.
This way, bumping the selector knob
will cause the machine to go to a slower
speed.
The service manual has detailed instructions
for disassembly of the gear case
and should be referred to when servicing.
The position of the gauge plate
controls the thickness of the slices.
This is the indexing assembly.
It is used to control the position of
the gauge plate. Remove the
knob and dial assembly and
the drive disc.
The shaft is preloaded to prevent it from
turning too freely.
To relieve the preload,
you have to loosen these nuts enough
to release the Belleville washers.
Once the preload
is removed and the tension on the roll
pin has been eased, it will
be easier to drive the pin out
and remove the shaft and worm.
This somewhat triangular
shaped indexing plate assembly
is a support for the roller.
It acts as a fulcrum,
converting the rotating motion of the
worm into a linear motion
to move the gauge plate to an
index position.
A blade spring secures this roller
in the indexing plate while allowing
it the mobility to travel smoothly
through the worm groove.
The gauge plate assemblies have been
aligned with the knife at the factory
and should not be taken apart.
Removal of this assembly should
normally only be required
if there is restriction in its movement,
like binding caused by dirt,
in which case you might want
to clean the support rods and
their bearing surfaces in the housing.
Then lubricate with the proper
lubricant as specified in the lubrication
manual. Reinstall
and secure the gauge plate assembly.
It will be easier to insert the
indexing shaft assembly through the
worm if you first position
and line up the worm.
Keep it engaged with the roller.
Then insert the indexing shaft
assembly and
line up the holes for the roll pin.
Reinsert the roll pin.
Do not forget the two Belleville washers
before you hand tighten the two nuts
onto the indexing shaft.
The Model 512
uses a very similar arrangement.
It uses a gear with an arm attached to it
to convert the rotating motion
into a linear motion
to move the gauge plate.
This nut is special.
It's an eccentric bushing.
Loosen this lock screw
and then turn the eccentric bushing
a small amount in either direction
to minimize the free play
between the gears.
Retighten the lock screw.
The Model 610
has a cam secured to the
indexing knob shaft.
The index arm stud
follows the cam as the knob is turned.
This results in a linear movement
of the gauge plate.
Our Model 410
has no indexing knob.
It uses an adjusting handle
which already gives a linear movement.
So no conversion is needed
like we do on the other slicers.
These are slide rods
for the 16-12
and 17-12 slicers.
The ends have a flat machine surface.
Mount the rods with these flats
on the seats in the housing.
If they are mounted with a round surface
against the seats,
the rods will be mounted too high
and the carriage bearing assembly
will not fit between the slide rods.
Also, mounting the rods
flat against flat
results in a more
stable mounting.
Before you mount the lower rod
and bearing assembly,
check that there is a bumper spring
directly on each end of it
and a backup washer on the outside.
The bumper springs and washers
dampen any bumping of the carriage
bearing assembly against the housing
during operation.
The two Roulon plugs can be kept
in place with a few drops of oil.
The Roulon plugs are needed to make
sliding on the upper rod easier.
To easily insert the lower rod,
you have to tilt it.
Do not let the bearing assembly
or any of the bumper parts
slide off the rod.
Fasten the ends of the rods.
The carriage bearing assembly
should move smoothly on the lower rod.
Some adjustments have to be made
and the easy way to do this
is with the assembly actually moving.
While gently sliding the bearing assembly
back and forth,
slowly turn the adjustment screw
until you feel that the plugs are binding.
Then back off a little bit.
Just before they start binding
is the right adjustment.
This adjustment will also correct
any slack between the plugs
and the upper rod.
Additional support to the bearing assembly
is provided by the upper rod.
That support prevents
any tipping of the carriage tray
which could result in uneven slicing
of the product.
A roller bearing in the lower part
of the bearing assembly rolls on the lower rod.
This roller bearing
is mounted on an eccentric stud
so its position can be adjusted
by turning the stud.
The bearing can thus be raised or lowered.
Move the carriage bearing assembly
back and forth
while you carefully turn the stud.
With a very gentle touch,
you can feel on the top of the bearing
when it starts rolling.
Lock the stud in that position.
You now know that
the complete sliding carriage tray assembly
is guided by a rod.
Additional support is provided
so that the carriage will not tip.
How is this done on other models?
The model 512
uses a slide bar and a rod.
A ball bearing rides
on top of the bar and a nylon roller
against the lower side.
The spacing between their surfaces
can be adjusted with a screw.
You might have to work on the older version
of this slicer.
Instead of the nylon roller,
it uses a single Roulon plug.
The model 610
also uses a bar and a rod.
A bearing rides on top of the bar.
Use this screw
to adjust for minimum clearance
to the slide bar,
but still allow the carriage assembly to move freely.
A simplified version
of the two rod carriage tray assembly support
is used on the 410 slicer.
You have seen the similarity
in the construction of the knife shaft
and hub assemblies.
We will now reinstall those assemblies
and the knives.
Because of the hole pattern,
the 410 knife shaft and hub assembly
can be mounted in one way.
The 512 assembly
has a symmetrical hole pattern
and can be mounted four ways.
When you put the knife shaft
and hub assembly back
on the 1612 and 1712 slicers,
you must position it
with the extension at the top.
The back knife guard mounts in this threaded hole
in that extension.
The gear at the end of the shaft
and hub assemblies
has to mesh with the warm gear
shaft.
On the 1612, 1712, and 512,
do not forget to place
the nylon knife shaft ring
back on the assembly before the knife
is replaced.
Its purpose is to prevent penetration of juices
and dirt into the shaft assembly.
The reassembly
instructions for the 610 are detailed
in its service manual.
I want to remind you again,
use the same caution when you install
the knife as you did when you took it off.
Clean the seating surfaces
of the knife and hub.
Dirt left on those surfaces
can cause the knife to wobble.
The knives of the
410, 610, and 512
slicers are secured
on the knife hub with three mounting screws.
A single screw
is used for the 1612 and 1712s.
There is
something special about this screw.
In its center is a Roulon plug,
which can be extended above
the screws surface.
Its extension can be adjusted with
the set screw on the bottom side.
The purpose of this Roulon
plug is to provide a support
to keep the turning knife screw
from rubbing the knife guard.
Tighten the screw, but do not
try to steady the knife by hand.
Do it in a similar manner as
when you loosened it.
Plug in the cord and turn on the slicer.
Be very careful because
there is no guard on the knife at this time.
Watch the edge of the knife
to see if it runs true
or if there is a wobble.
If it has the slightest wobble,
there must be a particle of dirt
behind the knife. It must be taken off
and cleaned again.
Do not try to shim the knife if it wobbles.
The knives are machined
so that shims are unnecessary.
Turn off the motor and unplug
the power cord.
Finally, reinstall the knife guards.
The gauge plate supports the product
during the actual slicing process.
If the gauge plate and knife surface
are not parallel,
the slices will not be uniform.
In other words, the gauge plate gauges
the thickness of the slices
and if it is not in line with the knife,
one end of the slice can be thicker
than the other.
Unless the gauge plate assembly has been
completely disassembled,
realignment is seldom required.
But you should know how to check it.
The following procedures do not
apply to the Model 610.
Turn the index knob until the gauge plate
and knife are in line.
Remove the front knife guard
and lay a straight edge across the knife
and gauge plate.
If it touches the knife and gauge plate
all the way across, they are in line.
If they are not,
you can make some adjustments.
The knife is a fixed mount
and its position cannot be altered.
But we can adjust the gauge plate
by loosening the mounting bolts
and carefully moving it.
If the gauge plate and knife
are in line, but the slices
are still not uniform,
the gauge plate could be tilted in relationship
to the knife.
Here is how to check if adjustment is needed.
Raise the gauge plate
above the knife.
Lay a 10 thousandths feeler gauge
flat on the knife.
Check it at the top
and at the bottom edge of the gauge plate.
Corrections can be made
by using shims between the gauge plate
and the gauge plate support.
This is not usually required
unless the gauge plate assembly
has been completely disassembled.
There should be just enough clearance
between the gauge plate
and the knife edge to prevent rubbing.
However, if the gap is
too wide, the product might lose
its support there when it is sliced.
The result is an uneven cut.
The product will be cut
into an irregular shape
that can no longer be cut into full slices.
Especially the softer meats and cheeses
will lose their cutting support
if the gap is too wide
and they will be unevenly sliced.
When making any adjustment
to the gauge plate, this gap
should be checked and the necessary
correction made.
The set screw in the carriage tray support
can be adjusted in or out
to control the gap.
It should be adjusted to provide minimum clearance
between the carriage tray
and the knife.
The tray must not rub against the knife guard
or gauge plate when in
the fully closed position.
The model 610 is
adjusted differently.
It cannot be checked with a straight edge across the
knife and gauge plate.
This is because the knife will not be
parallel to the gauge plate.
The slicer is built with the knife
at a very slight angle
when related to the gauge plate.
To align the gauge plate,
set the index knob at 2.
The distance between the gauge plate
and the carriage tray should be
the same when the tray is in the return
position and when it's
towards the knife.
Loosen the gauge plate bolts and adjust
as necessary.
With the index knob at 0,
place a 10,000 inch
feeler gauge on the knife.
Check that the gauge plate is
10,000ths of an inch above the knife.
Adjustment is made by
loosening these set screws.
It may be necessary
to shim the gauge plate
if the clearance is not the same at the top
and bottom.
Some products, depending upon consistency,
can only be sliced to a certain
minimum thickness.
The graduations on the dial assembly do not
stand for any specific dimensions.
They are used as references
only so that the operator
can adjust for or repeat a
certain thickness.
For consistent slice thickness,
the index mechanism needs to be adjusted.
Let's look at the 17-12.
Tighten the
retaining nut somewhat to take up
the end play in the shaft and
lock the nut.
Momentarily, replace the drive disc,
dial, and knob.
Check the friction while turning the index
mechanism. The retaining nut
compresses the Belleville spring-like
washers to preload the shaft.
The resulting friction
prevents the shaft from turning
while the slicer is operated.
You should, of course, still be able
to operate the index mechanism
without strenuous efforts.
Make sure to reinstall
the drive disc with the highest indentations
against the roll pin.
If you use any of the other indentations,
the disc will mount too low.
The dial assembly is supported by
the disc. There will not be
sufficient clearance for the dial skirt
and it will rub the slicer housing.
Bring the surface
of the gauge plate in line with the knife
edge. The two kidney-shaped
slots in the dial do not
allow for a 360-degree
adjustment once it is installed.
Position the dial assembly
over the drive disc with a reading of
0 to 5 on the dial.
If you position the dial
180 degrees around, it cannot
be adjusted for a correct 0
reading. Hold the dial
at 0. Install
the knob and tighten the screw.
The travel of the indexing plate
is limited by a set screw, which
normally does not require any adjustment.
It is set at the factory
and, unless you are completely rebuilding
the machine, it normally does not
require any adjustment.
To access the set screw, the name
plate, which is glued to the housing,
has to be removed. This
is difficult to do without damage to the
plate. But again,
adjustment of the set screw is seldom
required.
Music
The Hobart cast stainless steel
knives provide long service in normal
use, because they can be sharpened
many times before replacement.
Every time you sharpen the knife,
a little bit of metal is removed.
That is why a proper sharpening technique
is so important. We do not want
to grind off more metal than is
strictly necessary to sharpen the edge.
Set the indexing knob
to 0 and remove the carriage
tray. Clean the
knife surface to be contacted by the
sharpener wheels. Also, clean
the knife guards to prevent transferring
of food to the knife.
A dirty knife will dirty
the wheels of the sharpener and render
them ineffective.
Set the indexing knob to 50.
What you are doing here is to move
the gauge plate so that the sharpener
can be mounted.
Be careful with the exposed cutting edge
of the knife.
Notice that the sharpener is mounted with the
knife edge between the wheels.
The angle between the grinding wheel
and the knife must be correct.
There is a special tool to check
this angle.
If this angle is not correct,
excessive metal will be ground away
that could shorten the useful life of the
knife.
Lay a piece of white paper on the tray.
Turn on the slicer
and use the adjusting knob to gently control
the contact between the grinding wheel
and the beveled side of the knife.
Black dust should appear on the paper
indicating that the grinding stone is
working.
The actual sharpening of a well maintained
knife takes only about 5 to 15
seconds of very gentle
but firm and steady contact.
A slight burr will
form on the flat surface of the knife.
Stop the slicer and
with your finger check for the burr.
It indicates that the grinding
is finished.
Remove the burr by lightly pushing the
truing wheel against the knife for 3
seconds only.
Then back off the grinding and truing wheel
simultaneously.
Excessive grinding with the truing stone
will diminish the cutting quality of the knife.
Correct sharpening takes a
gentle touch but it is not
all that difficult to master.
Do not forget to clean the slicer
to remove any particles of ground
metal. Remember
do not try to sharpen a dirty knife.
It will dirty the grinding
and truing wheels.
Dirty wheels will sound like they are doing
the job but they will not be sharpening.
Dirty wheels can ruin an otherwise good
sharpener. If cleaning with
soap and water or even with a
non-flammable solvent cannot recondition
the wheels, they have to be replaced.
Remember, when you have to
remove the wheels, the grinding
wheel has a left hand screw.
This is done to prevent
the screw from unfastening by
the fast clockwise spinning of the
grinding wheel. The truing wheel
rotates in an opposite direction.
It has a right hand screw.
The Model 410
and 610 slicers have a different
type of sharpener.
And it mounts on the top edge of the gauge plate.
But the sharpening procedure
is the same except for removing
the burr. You have to move the
gauge plate to engage the truing stone.
There is a Model 512 slicer
with a permanently top mounted
sharpener. It is identified as
a 512 TMS.
The suffix TMS,
of course, stands for top
mounted sharpener.
In conclusion, clean the knife
before sharpening. Dirty
knives will dirty the sharpener wheels.
Dirty sharpener wheels
are ineffective and cannot be cleaned.
The knife sharpening procedure
is the same from one Hobart
slicer to the other.
In addition to
driving the knife, the motor also
drives the powered carriage tray
on the 1712 slicer.
The motor is equipped with a capacitor
to supply the extra energy required
for a quick start under load.
Be careful not to lose the loading
spring while removing the end cap.
This is the starting switch.
It is a normally
open switch. Later we will see
how it operates in the circuit.
To avoid electric shocks,
make sure the capacitor is discharged.
This is the oil
conveyor. It is pressed onto the shaft
of the rotor. The rotating
spiral groove forces any oil
splatters back into the gear case
so it will not seep through.
If oil happens to leak into the motor housing,
the motor has to be
disassembled and the housing and parts
cleaned with a non-flammable solvent.
It is extremely dangerous
to use a flammable solvent.
Use clean,
dry rags to wipe everything dry.
The rotating part
of the starter switch is also pressed
onto the rotor shaft. Centrifugal
force operates it so the
moving collar can activate the actual
starter switch.
Here is the circuit.
The motor has two windings.
One is the run
winding. It is needed to keep the motor
running. The start
winding and capacitor
provide the extra energy for a quick start.
The start winding
and capacitor can be switched in
and out of the circuit by the starting
switch, which is a normally
open switch held closed
by the rotating part of the start switch
when the motor is not running.
When the switch
is closed, the current goes
through the run winding and
start winding.
The capacitor is charged.
The motor will quickly start.
As soon as that happens,
the start switch will open.
This takes the start winding
and capacitor out of the circuit.
The current flow
through the run winding is not interrupted.
The motor continues to run.
When the motor is
stopped, the starter switch closes.
The start windings
and capacitor become part of the circuit
again and the motor is ready
to be restarted.
The bumper washer
should be replaced if the old one
is worn or damaged.
A little dab of oil or grease will hold
that washer in place inside
the casting while the rotor is
carefully being inserted.
The reconnected wires
should be neatly dressed so they
will not interfere with the operation of
the rotor or start switch.
This concludes
the final phase of this telelesson.
Thank you for watching.
Thank you.
you
you