Check out the rest of the set! So get on with some work! Hello, and bienvenue to the Flavors of France. I'm Katherine Kinley. This is the coast of Normandy, not far from the beaches where the greatest military mobilization of the 20th century took place on the 6th of June, 1944. Known by the code name of Overlord, it was an enormous combined forces landing operation which brought about the eventual liberation of Western Europe. Although now a prime agricultural and resort area, this district and its beaches remain a memorial to a day and a campaign which will live forever in history. Some of the fiercest fighting on that longest day took place here on Omaha Beach, where strong currents swept the American landing craft off course and into the teeth of the German guns. The Omaha Beach monument commemorates the heroism of over 1,500 members of the 5th Corps of the United States 1st Division, who lost their lives securing the beachhead. Only a few steps away, the remains of Hitler's Atlantic Wall, a complex system of fortifications and lookouts, testify to the dictator's determination to drive the Allies back into the sea. The wall was composed of a succession of concrete bunkers, thousands of cannons and machine guns, minefields and anti-tank trenches. Landing here on shores which were less fortified than the Pas de Calais, the Allies had the advantage of surprise. The steep cliffs and lack of a large port in the area posed serious challenges for the strategists. Two artificial harbors were built, one off Omaha, the other here, in the British sector at Aramanche Bay. The pontoons can still be seen today. The sea has always provided the Normans with adventure, but the rich fields have given them their heritage, one of the most abundant in Europe. While Leveraux and Camembert are known the world over as very special cheeses, for the Normans themselves, these names evoke the sights and sounds of picturesque villages and exquisite countryside. Modest timber and thatched cottages dot the lush pastureland, and despite the ravages of war, the people have kept faith with their traditional ways. In Pont-le-Vec, time-honored methods are observed in the production of a local cheese to rival its more famous cousins. Like Bondon and Neuf-Châtel, Pont-le-Vec is a soft fermented cheese made from whole or skimmed cow's milk. Once the milk has curdled, it is broken up and then stirred by hand to remove any large lumps which may have remained. The curd is separated from the whey and left to drain. The fermented cheese is then shaped in molds. It is placed on racks, then salted. Like Leveraux, Pont-le-Vec is one of the earliest traditional Norman cheeses. This type of cheese takes three or four months to ripen. When mature, it has a pronounced earthy flavor and is generally served at the end of a meal with a full-bodied red. Pont-le-Vec is distinguished by its washed or brushed golden yellow or orange crust. It's sold either wrapped in wax paper, in a wooden box, or unwrapped. Although there is some mass production, Pont-le-Vec is still largely made on farms by the traditional method. The quaint little port of Honfleur has long been a favorite with artists and painters, including Monet, a picture book setting, and outstanding Norman cuisine, when we return to the flavors of France. Stay tuned. Honfleur, on the Seine Estuary, at the foot of the Côte de Grasse, is a delightful town. Surviving the war virtually intact, the old docks remain almost as they were nearly four centuries ago, when Jacques Cartier set sail on a journey to a land called Gallianova, which he would rename Canada and claim for France. The character and atmosphere of Honfleur have long inspired artists. The Impressionists first met here at the Inn Saint-Simon, gathering around native-born Eugene Baudin. On the famous hillside stands the Chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Grasse, which dates back from the 17th century and remains a destination for pilgrims even today. An earlier chapel was built on this site in 1023, an execution of a vow made by Richard II, the fourth Duke of Normandy. Overlooking the little harbor at Honfleur is L'Assiette Gourmande. Here hosts Marie and Gerard Bonnefoy specialize in dishes of Normandy. A favorite is Pointrine de Pigeon, served with wafers made with potatoes and the giblets. The ingredients are the pigeon, shallots and parsley, clarified butter, the heart and liver, olive oil, salt and pepper, and a couple of peeled potatoes. Gerard begins by having the bird and cutting away the breasts. There are many species of domestic and wild pigeon in France, but it's the ring dove, or wood pigeon, which is most highly prized. Gerard chops up the rest of the bird, then the shallots and the garlic. The giblets are chopped up finely. Pigeon liver is particularly sweet, as it does not contain bile. The potatoes are sliced into thin wafers. With a mixture of clarified butter and oil, Gerard begins the sauce. The legs and sections of pigeon are added. They're allowed to cook until they're slightly brown. Shallots are added and it's all combined. A generous measure of a full flavored red wine is added. And the sauce is allowed to cook until it's rich and dark, for about 30 minutes. Gerard strains the sauce into another pot and patiently extracts all the juice. In a separate pan, the chef sautés the breasts, turning them until they're lightly browned. He adds a little salt and freshly ground pepper and a little extra clarified butter. Once they have a nice deep brown color, they're removed. While the breasts are left to stand, Gerard adds a little clarified butter and quickly browns the giblets and allows them to reduce on a moderate heat. He adds the mixture to the sauce with a drop of olive oil and fresh parsley and lets it simmer on a low heat. He then prepares the potato wafers. They are lightly fried in butter. After a minute, they're removed and drained. A small portion of the mixture is spooned onto a wafer and another placed on top. The little parcels are lightly fried until brown. A little salt to taste, a final touch of oil into the sauce, a little parsley and it's all combined over a moderate heat. A true specialty of this part of Normandy, bon appétit. In France, there are nearly 700 registered associations called Confrélie, devoted primarily to wine and food appreciation. When we return, La Confrélie de Tergoule, an unusual and very colorful group devoted to the appreciation of what is to us, rice pudding. That's when we return to the flavors of France. The French are known the world over for their sophisticated palates, but they're always eager to learn more about the traditions associated with the enjoyment of their food and wine. The importance of the Confrélie, a medieval tradition revived particularly since 1945, have played an important role in teaching French and foreigners alike how better to appreciate regional wines and cuisine. At Orgat, near Dives-sur-Mer, where William the Conqueror set out for Britain in 1066, devotees of the local Tergoule, or rice pudding, have restored the ceremonies and insignia of olden times in a high-spirited yet solemn ritual, which takes place regularly. The first of the present-day Confréries, the Sacre-Vin d'un Jour, was founded in 1905 to publicize the numerous wines of the district. However, soon after, gastronomic Confréries were established to publicize the quality and fame of French cooking. Today, they are as many and varied as the numerous wine loges. Like the Confréries des Gastronomes de la Tergoule, generally these societies are created to promote a regional product, cheese, chacroterie, and other specialties including truffles and even pancakes. Some of these associations are more directly involved in cookery and award diplomas, trophies and medals. Most have special rites, individual costumes, and colorful ceremonies. This is part of the initiation program of new members to the Confréries des Gastronomes de la Tergoule, which takes place formally on stage, but nevertheless in an atmosphere of fun and rather earthy good humor. Tergoule is a deceptively simple dish. The secret lies in the fine balance of ingredients and cooking to achieve the correct flavor and texture. Once the formalities are completed, the new members move off to enjoy a banquet of Norman gastronomic specialties, prepared for the occasion. Official guests from the Confréries in many parts of France are present on this occasion. Many of the costumes have an authentic derivation. Some very special guests are given honorary status. Tergoule is still a very important part of the day-to-day kitchen of Normandy, particularly in farming areas where it is still made in the traditional way. The ingredients are a generous cup and a half of rice, a pinch of nutmeg, a third of a cup of sugar, one and three-quarters pints of milk, previously boiled. The rice and sugar are mixed together. The spice is added, and the milk, slowly at first. All the ingredients are stirred. They're cooked at first over a high flame, then in the oven at a gentle heat until the rice is soft but not sticky. And here we have it, tergoule, another triumph of the Norman table. Another popular Norman product is calvados, a brandy made from apples. Like cognac, it is generally drunk as a digestive, however, it is often used in the preparation of many regional dishes. More about calvados and a great dessert when we return to the flavors of France. Stay tuned. In the Paix d'Auge, in the green heart of Normandy, stands the Château de Brûle. Built in the 16th and 17th centuries, for the last three generations, the Château has been home to one of the region's finest calvados distilleries. The rich soil of the Paix d'Auge is ideal for growing apples, and today there are more than 800 varieties. From early October to late November, the trees are harvested and the apples carefully selected. The first stage is a long and elaborate process of washing. From there, mashed and pressed to separate the pulp from the juice. The cider, or mou, must ferment for at least six weeks before reaching the alcohol content required for distillation, at least 4.5 percent. Calvados with the appellation Paix d'Auge is the result of a double distillation. The skill lies in the ability to collect only the bon choff, the heart of the second distillation. Calvados is aged in oak casks and then blended after tasting. The cellar master selects brandies of varying ages and from different harvests. Each calvados is different, and at the Château de Brûle, the secrets are jealously guarded. The results, however, are available for all to savor. Another favorite of Normandy combines calvados and fresh apples. Pain perdu au pomme et caramel. The ingredients are apples, baguette slices, calvados, clarified butter, two cups of cream, egg yolks, vanilla, and castor sugar. Hot water is combined with sugar, and the mixture is gradually brought to the boil to make the caramel. Butter is added and combined. It's put aside and kept warm. In a separate pan, sugar, egg yolks, and vanilla are thoroughly combined. When they are thoroughly blended, a little cream is added. The mixture is well combined. The apples are peeled and cut into quarters. In Normandy, there is a variety of apples called calville, which dates back to the 15th century. The bread is soaked in the cream mixture. A little butter is melted in a hot pan, and the bread is added and allowed to brown nicely. The apple quarters are fried in butter. Little sugar is added. Now the all-important calvados. And finally, caramel is poured over the apples. This is Normandy, where abundant nature has nurtured a way of life and a tradition which has survived war and occupation. Thanks to those sacrifices made so long ago, the continuity of life here endures, a fitting testimony to that struggle and a true liberation. Champagne, now that's a word that requires no translating. Hello and bienvenue to the flavors of France. I'm Katherine Kinley. Undoubtedly, the best known and most successful wine in the world, Champagne, has a history which goes back to the 17th century. It was a Benedictine monk, Dom Perignon, the cellar master of Haubilier Abbey, who succeeded in achieving double fermentation in the local white and red wines, and in doing so, created the first bottle of Champagne. At the time, it was considered to be a delicious novelty, but quickly went on to become the favorite drink of the court of Louis XIV, right here at the Palace of Versailles. Father Perignon's mad wine, as Champagne was called at the time, has occupied a point of preeminence ever since. The rolling hills of the Champagne district are carpeted with the great vines that produce the region's principal and most prestigious crop. Champagne is fortunate in having a climate that is almost perfect for the production of the dry white wine it's famous for. The warm summer days are long, and the vines on the north-facing slopes of the Warren valleys are ideally placed to catch the full impact of the sun's ripening rays. In summer, the vineyards are rarely disturbed. An occasional pruning of the vines to encourage the growth of the grapes is the only significant activity carried out during this period. If the vines are not pruned during the peak growing season, the plants expend all their energy in growing, rather than grape production. The villages of the valley floors are quiet, too, welcoming only an occasional tourist following the route to Champagne. Towards the end of the summer, the grapes ripen quickly, swelling with sugar in the sunlight. A high sugar content is essential for successful winemaking, regardless of whether the wine is sweet or dry. This tranquil scene disappears with the cold morning mists of autumn. An army of grape pickers arrive to swarm over the hills as the vintage starts. It's an important day, which is officially designated. No grapes may be picked until the préfets of the department officially announce the beginning of the vintage. The timing of the decision is based on the ripeness of the grapes. Three grapes are used in the manufacturing of Champagne, Pinot Noir, Pinot Mounier, and Chardonnay. By law, no other grape is permitted. The harvest is laborious and often backbreaking work on steep hillsides. The grapes are collected and taken to the press. Here some modernization has occurred, stainless steel vats and scientific procedures have their part to play in the process. But tasting is still the exclusive preserve of the master winemaker. An expert eye, keen nose, and sensitive taste buds are all essential equipment of the Champagne connoisseur. Wines have been made in the Champagne region for hundreds of years, but until the late 17th century, the wines were all still. Only by accident did the occasional wine continue to ferment inside the bottle, producing a sparkling wine, a curiosity. Today these sparkling wines are something more than a curiosity, thanks to a monk by the name of Dom Perignon. Dom Perignon was the cellerier at the Abbey of Hautevilliers. He discovered that the occasional sparkling wine was the result of the wine continuing to ferment after being bottled. He also discovered that this could be caused deliberately by the addition of a little sugar to the bottled wine. The choc cellars of the Champagne district are filled with bottles of Champagne undergoing a second fermentation. All fermentation processes produce some sediment which must be removed from the Champagne. The bottles thus undergo remuage, receiving a little twist from an expert hand. Checking the pressure inside the bottle is a way of verifying whether the fermentation has finished. Finally, the sediment must be removed. The neck of the bottle is chilled, trapping the sediment in an inch of frozen wine. When the cork is removed, the pressure forces the ice out. An expert knows, checks that all is well, and then the wine is recorked without losing its bubbles. It's a method that works perfectly, as all who have tasted Champagne will agree. The final result is a sparkling wine with small bubbles of gas that flow freely. Unlike other wines, Champagne rarely benefits from aging and is best drunk within a year or two of being bottled. The wine growing area dedicated to the production of Champagne consists of three adjoining districts, the Montagne de Reims, the Côte de Blanc, and the Vallée de la Marne. Set right in the center, literally in a sea of vines, is one of the district's most distinguished restaurants. And that's our next stop when we return to the flavors of France. The village of Chapillon Bellevue is between Reims and Epernay in the heart of the sacred triangle of Champagne. Its most famous site is a restaurant whose name is synonymous with good eating, even in this region of Epicures. The royal Champagne has, over the years, attracted famous guests and talented chefs. Let's join the chef as he prepares Turbo au Champagne. The ingredients are freshly ground pepper, chanterelle mushrooms, onions, some chopped leeks, salt, fish stock, butter, some cream, and a bottle of Champagne. The mushrooms are chopped, and the onions. Now little butter is added to the pan to melt. When it is melted, the chopped onions are added. And the mushrooms. They are stirred as they fry. The Champagne is then added. And a little more when the froth has died down. The fish stock follows, and then the fresh cream. The mixture is seasoned with a little salt, and a pinch of freshly ground pepper. The pan is agitated to mix the ingredients, which are then poured into a sieve. The solid ingredients are pushed into the sieve to ensure that all the sauce is extracted. The fish is prepared next. A medium-sized turbot is ideal. Two leeks are sliced lengthwise, and then chopped finely. A turbot filet is laid on a flat surface. The skin is removed with a sharp knife. And then trimmed for presentation. Next it's cut into three pieces of equal size. Meanwhile the chopped leeks are added to a saucepan of boiling water. The filets of turbot are placed in a frying pan to cook in a little oil, and seasoned with a little freshly ground pepper. The cooked leeks are removed from the saucepan and placed in a bowl of ice water to cool. The fish filets are turned to brown on the other side. More pepper is added. And now some butter to add flavor. The filets are left to fry for a moment longer. Now the cooled leeks are added to some butter in a frying pan. They're shaken a little. A pinch of salt is added. And another twist of pepper. When fried and nicely softened, the leeks are spooned onto the plate. The turbot filets are removed from the frying pan, shaken to remove any excess oil, and placed on the plate with the leeks. Finally the sauce is spooned over the fish in a decorative manner. And it's garnished with two crayfish. Lido au Champagne is a specialty of the Royal Champagne. Ideally it is accompanied by a glass of vintage champagne, which is great for rich courses such as this. Bon appétit. While champagne is generally drunk as an aperitif or as the finale to a fine meal, it is also great during a meal with special dishes. More about this subject when we return to the flavors of France. Some of France's best restaurants are in the Champagne region. Perhaps it's something about champagne that compels those who sip it to seek out fine food to follow. A specialty of this district is Casolette de Petit Gris de Champagne. The ingredients are escargot, carrots, potatoes, cream, some salt, freshly ground pepper, nutmeg, some butter, and some celery. The potatoes are placed in hot water to boil and then the carrots are chopped. Finely sliced and cut into thin strips. The leeks are also finely chopped and added to the carrots. Now the celery is also chopped and added to the leeks and carrots. A generous measure of butter is melted in a frying pan and the carrot is added to fry, followed by the leeks and celery. It's all seasoned with a little salt and a little pepper. The vegetables are stirred as they cook. Next the snails are poured into a saucepan and a little of the sauce is added to the frying vegetables, cream is added, and stirred in. A pinch of nutmeg next and the mixture is stirred again. As the vegetables are cooking, the potatoes are prepared. A slice is taken off each potato lengthwise and the potato is hollowed out. The potato is a boat fitted with a lid. At this point the juice of half a lemon is added to the vegetables and some more cream. The vegetables are stirred. A bed of lettuce is prepared on a plate and the potato placed on top. The snails are added and then the vegetables spooned over the top. It's all garnished with a decorative snail shell, even more delicious when accompanied by a glass of vintage champagne. In and around Epernay, some of the major champagne houses have established their headquarters in grand old mansions, some of which date back to the 18th century. A look at an unusual working environment when we return to the flavors of France, stay tuned. Many of the mansions occupied by the great champagne houses date from the belle époque, considered to be the turn of the century. It was a heady period for Europe. The industrial revolution and colonial expansion had brought great wealth to the merchant classes. The republic had finally been accepted and the first world war was not yet on the horizon. With all the wealth being amassed, it was not surprising that champagne was being drunk in increasing quantities. Champagne sales soared at the end of the 19th century from just over 1 million bottles in 1889 to 7 million bottles in 1900. A new art, Art Nouveau had developed and it was reflected in the architecture, the furniture and the paintings, posters and cartoons of the time. Art Nouveau, although copied by other nations, was distinctly French. Champagne of course featured in many of the drawings and the astounding success of the drink itself prompted the great houses publicists to commission advertising material, in the Art Nouveau style of course. Many of these posters are today works of art in their own right and they are highly sought after. They were representative of an advertising style that typified the period and could be found all over France. Many of the great artists of the 20th century began their careers designing posters such as these. The illustrations reflect the spirit of the times. Natural themes were very popular, so too were depictions of the achievements of France. The Eiffel Tower was a great source of national pride and many of the posters simply depicted the new found affluence of the French nation and presented images of an ideal society. In addition to traditional champagne, the region also produces a rosé champagne. It too is delightfully palate pleasing and the perfect match for dessert. Rosé champagne has also inspired a delicious dessert, soup de fruit, rouge or champagne rosé. The ingredients are citrus peel and vanilla in syrup, fresh strawberries, blackberries, wild strawberries, raspberries, a few mint leaves. First the stalks are removed from the strawberries and then they are cut into quarters and placed in a bowl. The raspberries are added, then the wild strawberries and the blackberries. The orange and grapefruit peel and syrup is poured over the fruit. The champagne is uncorked and it's poured generously over the fruit. A few chopped mint leaves are scattered over the fruit and are stirred in. Then it's all left to stand for a minute or two and it's ready to serve and is spooned out into individual serving bowls. Depending on the season, other exotic fruit like kiwi, mango and even pineapple can be included in this recipe. Because of its refreshing nature, during the summer it's often served just by itself and accompanied by a glass of rosé champagne, soup de fruit rouge or champagne rosé. In recent years, rosé champagne has gained a much wider acceptance, particularly among the younger generation because of its distinctly different flavor and fashionable image. However today, rather than popping a cork only to honor a grand occasion, generally people are more likely to turn an everyday event into something special by opening a bottle of champagne. The grape is the basis of the economy in the Champagne region, a humble fruit that has made Epernay the city with the highest per capita income in France. The geographic growing area and every stage of the production of champagne is regulated by stringent laws. The procedures and traditions that began so long ago are sanctioned by custom and guarded jealously by those who make the wine. In this way, quality and excellence are maintained, ensuring that champagne remains the most famous single wine in the world. Situated on the borders of France and Germany is Alsace, probably the most individual of France's 21 regions. Hello, bienvenue to the flavors of France, I'm Catherine Kinley. As part of the settlement terms of the Franco-Prussian War, which ended in 1870, and because of its strategic position on the Rhine River, Alsace was annexed to Germany. Forty-four years later, the region was returned to France in 1914, but not before absorbing a variety of colorful dramatic elements, which today have enriched the local folklore, language, traditions, and particularly the cuisine. Strasbourg means town of the road, and the name aptly describes the city's position. It lies on the banks of the Rhine River, Northern Europe's great north-south waterway, about halfway between Switzerland and the industrial centers of Western Germany. The old roads from Paris to Eastern Europe crossed the Rhine here, and Strasbourg grew to become a crossroads town of some importance. It is a city of waterways. The old cottages and warehouses are reflected in the still waters of the rivers and the canals that thread their way through the town. Now that the traders have gone, it is the pleasure boats that cruise the canals, showing off the points of interest. The citizens of Strasbourg have a strong tradition of independence that dates back to 1205, when it was an imperial city. This status has ensured its continuing prosperity to this day. Strasbourg has also contributed to the pages of history. In fact, Wagner wrote Tristan & Solda here. The old neighborhood of La Petite France exhibits half-timbered houses, perhaps Strasbourg's most typical architecture. This one is the restaurant La Grande Joliet, where head chef Alan Frickenbeiner is preparing truffle ravioles with chicken stock. The ingredients are freshly chopped herbs, black truffles, parsley, and basil, some salt, a few slices of bacon, some fresh butter, some cream, a jug of chicken stock, and a jug of truffle syrup, a glass of port, some pastry rings, and leeks that the chef cuts and removes the centers from. With a sharp knife, he slices the leeks very finely and dices the smoked bacon. Then he carefully slices the black truffle. The truffle is also called the black diamond and grows under oak trees, where it is sniffed out by specially trained pigs and dogs. It's sliced very thinly. He melts the butter in a saucepan and then adds the leeks and the diced bacon and fries them gently. He adds the truffle and stirs it with a spoon. He adds the port for flavor. And then a little of the truffle syrup. He adds a good quantity of broth to make up the liquid, and he also adds cream to it, and some freshly ground pepper, and a little salt. On medium heat, he cooks it for a few minutes, stirring from time to time. And he turns his attention to the pastry, rolling it out with a traditional wooden roller. He rolls it out until it's perfectly flat but not too thin. He then cuts out the ravioli rings with a round pastry cutter, cutting as many as needed. He brushes each pastry with melted butter, making sure they are well coated. This prevents the filling from sticking to the pastry. He places a fork full of the filling onto each pastry circle. Then taking the pastry, he hand folds them one at a time to form half moon raviolis. He makes sure the edges are well sealed. He then trims them with a frilled pastry cutter, removing the excess pastry. When he has a sufficient number of pastries, he cooks them in boiling water. He serves them attractively laid out on a plate, adding the sauce, and decorating each one with a piece of truffle, and garnishes them with freshly chopped herbs. And voila, a true work of art, bon appetit. The cabbage is thought to be of Chinese origin and first popularized through its extensive use to sustain the builders of the Great Wall. Still popular in numerous Asian dishes, it has however been adopted by the people of Alsace as the basis of their national dish, choucroute. More about that coming up. The humble cabbage with its broad curly leaves has been known in Europe for over 4,000 years. First valued for its medicinal properties, it later came to be eaten as a food mostly in soups. In Alsatian cuisine, it forms the basis of the famous local dish, choucroute. Agriculturalists in all fields are constantly striving to perfect their crop strains and cabbage growers are no different from anyone else. The king of the Alsace cabbage patch remains the quintessential cabbage. It takes six months to mature, and the tough outer leaves, which aren't eaten, are removed in the field. It's the tender white hearts that are kept, and they're loaded onto trucks to be taken to the Riefl's choucroute factory in Krautegersheim, the sauerkraut capital of Alsace. In the factory, the stalk is mechanically removed and the cabbage is cut into strips on a rotary chopping belt. Salt is added to the shredded cabbage in fairly generous quantities, but once it has been absorbed, the cabbage is thoroughly washed. Cabbage not only removes the excess salt, but also any dirt that remains from the fields. It is washed, stirred, and pulled to and fro before it's considered to be satisfactory. The water is then drained off, and the cabbage is transferred into a large straining tub to drain completely. Liberal amounts of juniper berries are added, a handful of berries with each layer of cabbage. Then the cabbage is placed in vats of boiling water to cook under high pressure. The cooking time is a question of judgment, best left to the experienced cabbage cook. He tests the cabbage frequently until it meets his rigorous standards. When he's finally satisfied, the cabbage is removed from the cooker, forked into plastic buckets and pressed down well to remove any pockets of air. Juices from the cooking process are added, and then the buckets are sealed. A pressure of several tons ensures that the seal is tight. After fermentation underground, the chakrut is finally ready. It absorbs the flavor of a multitude of spices with ease and is the perfect accompaniment for the potato and sausage dishes, so beloved by the Alsatians. Chakrut, or sauerkraut if you prefer, is more popular in Alsace in the winter months, however it is eaten year round. Traditionally it's served piled high with pork and potatoes, however in recent times new recipes have become popular. We're going to show you one next. Strasbourg is the seat of the European Parliament. Its ultra-modern building sits on the banks of the River Ile, opposite the Orangerie Park. Here the European Parliament holds its sessions, drafting the laws of the European community. The city has been the seat of the Council of Europe since the very beginnings of the European community back in 1949, and today two out of three citizens of Strasbourg are employed in administrative jobs. The site was chosen because of Strasbourg's role as a European crossroads, both for peoples and for ideas, and more mundanely because it sat on the border between two of the three principal founder members of the European community, France and Germany. Today its future is firmly linked to the Europe of the 21st century. As well as being a flourishing commercial and cultural center, Strasbourg is still an important inland port, and the city's canals are busy with barges carrying wines, iron ore and potash from the mines and the fields to their markets. Strasbourg has its share of famous buildings too. There is the Château of Rouen and museums such as the Museum of Fine Arts, which houses works by Zuberon, Marillo and Goya. In the heart of Strasbourg is the Place Clébert, named after Napoleon's famous General Clébert, a native of Strasbourg. As befits the capital of Europe, Strasbourg has no shortage of open spaces to offer its citizens. Again, the water dominates, whether it be the lakes and the parks, the canal, or the Rhine itself. There is always an opportunity for exercise, relaxation, or both. The magnificent Cathedral of Notre Dame dominates the streets of the old city. It was built in the Gothic style of Notre Dame de Paris, and work began on it in 1176, although it wasn't completed until 200 years later. Since then, it has survived numerous attacks, including the Reformation, the Revolution, and two world wars. A rivalry exists between the cities of Alsace to produce the finest sauerkraut. Fueling the debate at Maison Camercel is its chef, who is preparing his famous fish choucroute. The ingredients are butter, lemon juice, a bowl of finely chopped chives, some finely chopped onions, dill, chopped tomatoes, some cumin seeds, white pepper, paprika, salt, wine vinegar, milk, a little white wine, a haddock, and a salmon. The chef places in a saucepan a little vinegar and a little white wine, and puts it on the stove. Put it on a medium heat to boil. He then adds a pinch of salt. As it continues to simmer, he adds cream, beating the mixture well with a whisk, stirring it as it simmers a little more. He adds butter, little by little, until it has all been added. And then he stirs it all in until the butter has completely melted. He seasons it, adding some salt and some pepper, stirring in just a little paprika, and some lemon juice. He then lets it cook just a little longer, stirring occasionally. Finally it's ready, and he pours it into a cone strainer. He strains out all of the solids. The chef then turns his attention to the fish. He places the haddock into some milk for a minute. He then cuts the filet into two slices. He filets the salmon, too, cutting the fish in half lengthwise. He puts more fish into the milk and places the salmon in the sauce to poach for one minute. Then he takes the sauerkraut and places it on a plate. He dries the salmon and the haddock on some absorbent paper, and places the fish on the top of the sauerkraut, arranging it in an attractive presentation. He adds the sauce and decorates it with mussels. He then sprinkles it with chives and dill. Voila, it's perfect, served with a white wine. Bon appétit. In Alsace there are seven great wines, however Riesling and Gewürztraminer are considered to be the most outstanding. Now it's interesting to learn that in spite of being one of France's smallest regions, today almost 50% of the wines drunk in France come from this region. More about that and a great dessert coming up next. The route des vins, or road of wine, starts on the very outskirts of Strasbourg itself. It winds its way through vineyards and medieval villages, a country peopled with storks and half-timbered houses. October is harvest month. Grape pickers, often itinerant laborers or students, are brought in to assist. Since there can be no delay once the grapes are ripe, strong men carry bunches of grapes on their shoulders to the tractor to be taken to the wine press immediately. Although romantic, the days when the grapes were trodden underfoot are long gone and the press is now mechanized. The Romans were the first to plant grapevines in this area as they were in most parts of northern Europe. That was in about 200 A.D. and since then the Alsatians haven't looked back, constantly improving on the varieties of grape ever since. The local vintages, though not well known, are excellent and varied. 120 million bottles of Sylvana, Gewurztramana, Pinot, Riesling, Muscat and Toquet are produced every year. They are the perfect accompaniment for Alsatian specialties such as the foie gras, flamme couque and Spätzle that are to be found in the traditional Strasbourgeois restaurant. The Hügel family is a legendary part of the Alsatian wine business and unsurprisingly so since they've been involved since 1639. Their Gewurztramana is excellent accompanied by a little Alsatian Munster cheese or a piece of the famous Alsatian cake, the Hügelhof. Here in this charming tea salon, Claude Richon prepares a Hügelhof. It is a yeast cake with Sultanas cooked in a special high crown-like mold. The ingredients are fresh yeast, salt, white sugar, white flour, fresh milk, some Sultanas, some almonds, fresh butter and five fresh eggs. The chef makes an island with the flour and adds the salt, the sugar, the yeast and the eggs. He combines it all by hand using a kneading motion to completely absorb the ingredients into the flour. He adds the milk little by little until the flour is thoroughly moistened and then the chef starts to knead. He gathers the flour into a ball then drops the ball of dough onto the marble table to allow the gluten to become elastic. He spreads the dough out a little and adds the butter and then kneads the dough, working it with his fingers to help melt the butter. He continues to hit the dough on the marble surface. A marble surface is excellent for rolling dough because the dough won't stick. The chef then adds the Sultanas to the middle of the dough and kneads them until all the Sultanas are well spread throughout the dough. He rolls the dough up into a ball then flattens it with an open hand. It's almost ready now. The chef greases the mold with butter and lines the mold with almonds pre-soaked in water. Finally, he works the dough into a donut shape and wraps it around the center of the Kugelhoff mold. It goes into an oven at 300 degrees for 45 minutes. When the Kugelhoff comes out of the oven, all it needs is a sprinkle of powdered sugar and it's ready to eat. Although Alsace is an integral part of France, it is a region with a very distinct character situated at the heart of the new Europe. Alsace has protected its environment and here the local fauna and flora live in harmony with industry.