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Engineers and designers have used a great deal of skill and knowledge to produce the modern motor car.
The owner invests a lot of money in it. If we also invest a little of our time and effort in maintenance and checking, the motor car can remain good looking and can give trouble free service throughout a very considerable lifetime.
Most owners do try to keep the exterior finish sparkling and clean. However, reliable service depends more particularly upon regular checks and adjustments, and these are really very simple.
Some drivers prefer to leave everything to a mechanic, but there is great advantage in knowing what should be done. The owner's handbook is always an excellent guide and should be used in conjunction with the suggestions which will be made in this film.
Once the body of the car has been cleaned, it's a good idea to go right around looking in detail for any signs of damage.
A loose strip of chrome will almost certainly collect water which in time will cause rust.
Water may collect around door openings.
Even a very small chip like this one can worsen quickly because of rust.
The glass and rubber seals of the headlights are checked. The glass should be firm and the rubber should be free from any signs of perishing.
The windscreen is inspected. Any small scratch or chip could make a weak point and may cause it to shatter.
For safety, we check the door handles are firm and that they properly control the latches. Check that the petrol cap is screwed up tightly.
Look at the rubber and glass on the rear lights and the number plate light. These are often prone to stone or water damage.
Now the mechanical side. Oil is absolutely vital to engine, gearbox and differential.
The sticker tells when lubrication service should be done and the figures here should be checked against the mileage reading.
Even if the oil change is not yet due, we check the engine dipstick which is marked with a top and a bottom limit.
To make an accurate reading, we wipe the dipstick clean first, then dip again and check the level.
These reservoirs hold the brake fluid. Brakes work on the pressure maintained by this fluid which must always be kept at the proper level.
If necessary, top up the clutch fluid reservoir too, being sure only to use the correct fluid.
Next we have a look at the fan belt. It should be smooth and should show no signs of cracking or fraying.
Some fan belts are grooved like this which should not be confused with splits and cracks, the sign of excessive wear.
It may be necessary to adjust the fan belt tension but not too tightly. It needs to have a small amount of play between the pulleys.
If the engine is warm, release the radiator cap slowly to the safety stop to allow pressure to escape.
Then remove the cap and top up with clean water if required.
Remembering that cooling systems do work under pressure, have a look all around the radiator for any signs of leaking.
Hoses will deteriorate in time, check that they are firm and watertight.
This bottle contains water for the windscreen washers, or it will contain water for the windscreen washers if we remember to refill it regularly.
The battery is the heart of the car's electrical system.
The acid level in each cell must just cover the plates inside. We never add acid, only distilled water until each cell is at the correct level.
Battery corrosion can be removed easily with a rag dampened in warm water.
Always be careful not to spread the corrosion, particularly into inaccessible places.
Make sure that the battery terminals are tightly clamped and that the battery itself is properly secured.
A tool kit is a good idea. Certainly a few basic items are indispensable.
At some time or other, wheels may have to be changed, for which a jack with handle, a wheel nut spanner and a screwdriver are essential.
The instruction book will be very specific about tyre pressures.
Incorrectly inflated tyres wear out quickly as well as affecting the way the car handles.
Don't forget to check the spare.
Tyres in good condition have a deep tread.
Wear is even. There are no cuts, abrasions or bulges in the walls.
Tyres will last very much longer if the manufacturer's recommendation for rotating wheel positions is followed.
There may possibly be damage to the wheel itself or to the underbody of the car.
Early discovery and repair may well save costly damage later.
Brake fluid hoses join the wheel cylinders through backing plates.
We check there for leaks and check the hoses themselves for the slightest sign of damage.
Check wheel nuts and see they're tight before replacing the hubcap.
Nowadays we depend a lot on signal lights. Front and rear indicator lamps should be checked.
Headlights and tail lights must work.
The dip switch must bring headlights to high beam.
We check too that the near side indicators operate front and rear.
While operating the switches we see that the high beam warning light and the indicator pilot lights are working.
The braking lights work when the foot brake is used.
If the car is parked near a wall the reflections of the braking lights can be seen when the pedal is pressed.
The reversing light can be checked in the same way.
Inside the car the door switches for the courtesy lights can be tested.
All the instruments and gauges must operate. For some of these the ignition switch will have to be turned on.
We see that there is sufficient fuel in the tank and check that the dual brake warning light is working.
Remember to turn the ignition switch off again.
If the steering mechanism is right there should be only a small amount of free movement in the wheel and the whole motion of the wheel will be smooth.
When did we last use the horn? Now is the time to check that it will work next time.
We release the handbrake and pull it up again to feel the tension.
If the ratchet is working properly the clicks will be even and positive.
Although using the ratchet in this way is not good driving practice as we'll see in later films.
The clutch pedal should have the recommended free travel. It should then be harder to press as it goes to the floor.
The brake pedal should also have a similar free movement at first.
It should then become firm and then impossible to press much further.
We see that nothing interrupts the smooth movement of the accelerator pedal.
When the engine is started the instrument panel can be rechecked and the washers and wipers can be operated to see that they are working properly.
The release catchers on the seat belts must work without the slightest difficulty and the belts themselves must show no signs of weakness or wear.
Regular inspection of the car by the driver will reveal the need for minor repairs and adjustments from time to time.
If these are carried out by the owner or by a qualified mechanic as soon as they are detected the need for costly overhauls and replacements will be postponed for a very long period.
And certainly the good looks, the performance and reliability of the car will be assured for many years to come.
Thank you for watching.
In this film we are going to drive. We are going to treat the car carefully and drive safely by establishing good habits before we even start the engine.
The handbrake is on, we check it and we turn the handle to save wear on the ratchet.
We adjust the seat to be comfortable for one thing but also to be able to see properly and to be able to work all the controls easily.
Steering, brakes, clutch, accelerator, ignition and light switches, wiper and other controls.
We can see the road ahead clearly, side vision is good. We check and if necessary adjust the rear vision mirrors.
If there should be a collision no one wants to be thrown from a moving car so we check that all doors are properly locked.
The seat belt needs to give firm support without restricting small movements.
It will be safer and more comfortable fastened across the hip.
The correct driving position is one which can be maintained for long periods at a time without sliding or rolling when the car is moving.
Instruments and controls in other makes of cars may look different and feel different so before driving an unfamiliar car we always sort out how the controls work and feel checking out with the manufacturers handbook if necessary.
We are ready to start the engine so we first make sure that the gear lever is in neutral and the handbrake is on. Now the car won't move unexpectedly.
If the engine is cold we pull out the choke to make it easier to start. We switch on the ignition.
We have a look at the instrument panel. There is enough fuel, oil light is working, ignition light is working, the temperature gauge won't of course give a reading until the engine warms up.
Right, we start the engine. We hear it and immediately release the starter switch. If the engine then stalls we wait until it stops completely before trying again.
With the engine running we have another look at the instrument panel. Oil and ignition lights should have gone out and they have, temperature gauge begins to rise.
And as the engine warms up we can push the choke in. If anything looks wrong we switch off immediately.
Some people can check the running of the engine by listening to it but this comes with experience. We'll switch off and run quickly through the drill again. Gear lever in neutral.
Handbrake on. If the engine is cold set the choke. Ignition on. Check that gauges and warning lights read correctly. Start up.
It's bad to rev a cold engine so we let it run at a fast idle to warm up. As soon as the engine is warm we push the choke in.
The ball of the left foot operates the clutch pedal. It is pushed right down to the floor while first gear is engaged.
We check to make sure the road behind is clear. We make a signal with the indicators, release the handbrake and slowly lift the ball of the foot off the clutch pedal.
At the same moment we press the accelerator gradually to provide sufficient engine power to move off.
At very low speeds the clutch can be eased in and out to control speed but we must emphasise this method is only used at very low speeds.
Smooth acceleration is achieved by placing the right foot on the pedal in the same way as the left is placed on the clutch.
Clutch and accelerator have reciprocally opposite movements. As the clutch is released the accelerator is pressed. As the clutch is pressed the accelerator is released.
This prevents stalling or racing the engine.
With the clutch pedal down no power is transmitted to the rear wheel so that on a level road the car will roll to a stop.
We move off again releasing the clutch hesitating briefly as the car begins to move then releasing the clutch all the way. Once it is fully disengaged the foot is removed completely from the pedal.
We stop the car again this time using the foot brake to make sure that the road behind is clear and give a signal if required.
At very low speeds in first gear the clutch can be pressed before the brake pedal is applied.
As we shall not move off again immediately the handbrake is applied the gear lever is moved to neutral and the feet can be taken off the clutch and brake pedals.
We go through the routine again clutch, gear, check behind, signal, handbrake.
Release clutch and at the same time accelerate gently. Remove foot from clutch completely.
And stopping again. Rear vision, signal, clutch and brake. Again the ball of the foot on the pedal.
Several practice sessions may be necessary before a new driver feels thoroughly confident about clutch and accelerator control. Each session should begin with the full routine of checking as we have seen.
An essential part of good driving is the proper control of the car.
An essential part of good driving is the proper coordination of observation and controls.
Added to this we must be prepared to know the traffic regulations and their meaning and put them into practice with consideration for other road users.
The first steps are well worth plenty of practice until they can be done properly and almost automatically.
But then it will be time to move up on the next exciting stage towards becoming an expert driver of motor cars.
Up to this point we have seen how various parts of the car work. We have thought about mechanical maintenance as well as care of the body work.
In the last film we took the first few steps in driving and started to form good driving habits.
So far we have driven only very slowly but this has already given some idea of how a car handles so it is time now to speed up and begin to experience normal driving conditions.
First we must find a way of steering which keeps the driver in control all the time whatever happens.
The proper driving position is the first essential. We must be able to reach the steering wheel easily. The shoulders and arms must have free movement while the main part of the body remains secure with the seat belt.
Also we must be able to see clearly to both sides, to the front and to the rear.
When we grip the wheel the hands are positioned where the figures 10 and 2 would be on the dial of a clock.
A fierce grip on the wheel quickly tires any driver. The wheel is held in a way which enables the grip to be tightened instantly if necessary.
A turning action is made with the arms from the shoulders while smaller corrections are made with the elbows and wrists.
Both hands should make synchronised movements up and down the wheel and this system is called the pull push method.
We'll start up and see it in practice.
If the tyres and steering mechanism are in good condition very little driver action is needed to keep the car on a straight course.
On a gentle curve to the right the wheel is pulled down with the right hand until the left hand is getting near the 12 o'clock position. This is all that needs to be done.
On a left hand turn the left hand pulls the wheel down until the right is at 12 o'clock. Neither hand need ever pass the 12 or 6 o'clock positions.
When it is necessary to turn the wheel further one hand pulls down while the other slides down ready to grip and continue the turn by pushing the wheel up.
When the turn is completed the hands return to the 10 to 2 position.
In a tighter corner this time the right hand moves to the top of the wheel and pulls it down. The left hand goes down, tightens on the wheel and pushes up.
Straightening up the action is simply reversed.
This way steering is smooth and positive control of the car is kept.
Once again for a right hand turn the right hand pulls down the left hand pushes up.
Now a left hander. Left hand goes to the top and pulls down while the right hand slides down then pushes up and the action is reversed to straighten up again.
At no time did the hands pass the 6 o'clock or 12 o'clock positions. This is very important for it avoids cross hand steering for which there is no need. Pull push steering gives much better control over the car.
Steering is right or will be with a bit more practice. So we think about making gear changes without any fuss or panic. First we refresh the memory about what happens in the gearbox.
Power from the engine is being transmitted through some of these gears which are in mesh with other gears connected to the driving shaft. Selectors control the various gear combinations.
When a gear change is made driving gears slide out of mesh and an alternative combination of freely spinning gears engage between the engine and drive shafts.
If the change is not made correctly the well known sound of expensive damage will be heard.
Here is a three speed gear shift. There are three forward gears. Each time any gear is engaged the gear lever must pass through the neutral position.
Neutral to first gear.
Through neutral to second.
Through neutral to third or top.
Through neutral back to second.
Through neutral back to first.
The grip on the gear lever is important. The correct grip making for positive gear changing.
An overhand grip is used to change from first to second.
From second to top.
And from top to second. The overhand grip makes it easier to guide the lever away from the driver.
An underhand grip is better when changing from second or neutral to first.
Or neutral to reverse. An underhand grip makes it easier to guide the lever towards the driver.
Underhand to first.
Overhand to second.
Top.
And back to second.
Underhand back to first.
The clutch. That vital and friendly device which releases the drive from the engine so that gear changes can be made.
Double declutching means working the clutch twice for each gear change. Once to get out of the gear we're in, the second time to get into the next gear.
Double declutching is not essential with modern cars, but with a little practice it becomes a habit which gives smoother changes.
Especially changing from a higher to a lower gear.
We'll take double declutching step by step. We're in first gear. We take the correct grip on the gear lever.
Push in the clutch and let accelerator up.
Move the gear lever to neutral. Clutch out.
Push in the clutch. Change to the next gear.
Ease out the clutch and press the accelerator to gain more power.
Once again, this time on the move. Good grip on the gear lever. Clutch in. Accelerator up. Gear lever to neutral. Clutch out.
Clutch in. Next gear. Clutch out. And accelerator pressed for power.
The accelerator is used to alter engine speed in anticipation of the road speed of the next gear to be selected. This is how it works.
If for example we're travelling at 20 miles an hour in second gear, the engine would be turning at about 3000 revolutions a minute.
If we were travelling at the same speed in top gear, the engine speed would be about 2000 revolutions a minute.
Therefore, changing from top to second gear, engine speed is increased. Second to top gear, engine speed is decreased.
A simple rule. Change down. Press accelerator down. Change up. Let the accelerator up.
Management and experience help us to know when we should change gear. But there are times when it's obvious that we must.
At the moment our road speed is low, but the engine is racing, wasting fuel, causing unnecessary wear.
We change up to a higher gear.
Still, the engine labours under great strain, so we change down to a lower gear.
After a little practice, we'll soon get used to the sound and feel of the car.
But now that we're driving faster, braking becomes more important. Whenever the brakes are used, the car tends to become unstable.
The front dips, the back rises, and this is especially dangerous on corners.
So, while practising steering and gear changing, we must leave ourselves plenty of road space for braking.
And in fact, normally we only use the brakes when travelling in a straight line.
But now we're driving. We're making real progress. Confidence will come with experience. Experience will also show how much other people's safety depends upon the way we learn and apply the principles of good driving practices.
The car is now ready to go.
We're now ready to go.
We're ready to go.
We're ready to go.
We're ready to go.
We're ready to go.
Music
In the last two films, the early important steps towards good driving have been demonstrated. Checking, starting and stopping, steering, gear changing and braking.
With adequate practice of all these features together, the new driver will soon be doing them almost automatically and is then ready to move on to the next stage.
With a better idea of the feel of the car, less concentration need be devoted to just working the controls.
The driver is better able to look ahead on the road, size up the situation and plan the next driving move.
If we are going to drive comfortably, movements need to be well coordinated and this is particularly applicable to starting on a hill.
On a hill, two forces pull a car in opposite directions.
One, gravity.
And two, engine power.
We can control gravity with the brake.
And engine power with the clutch and accelerator.
If we release the brake too soon, the car rolls backwards.
If we release the clutch too soon, the engine will stall.
So to start smoothly on a hill without rolling back or stalling, we operate clutch, handbrake and accelerator all at the same time.
We press in the clutch and select first gear in the usual way.
We check the road and indicate our intention.
All clear, we release the clutch until it engages sufficiently to hold the car.
We release the handbrake and the clutch is let out as we press the accelerator.
And we move off smoothly.
Once again, clutch and gear, check the traffic, signal, ease clutch out and accelerator down.
As clutch engages, release handbrake, accelerate as clutch is released all the way.
Sooner or later, the new driver is confronted by a situation out of which he will have to reverse.
It's necessary to turn around, which presents no difficulty if the seat belt is adjusted correctly.
The modern car affords a fairly wide view to the rear, although parts of the car body will restrict this.
To obtain the best possible view, we can use various angles, over the left shoulder, over the right shoulder,
out of the driver's side window and in the rear vision mirror.
Before engaging reverse gear, the car must have come to a complete stop.
We must always reverse very carefully, having little warning of what or who might suddenly appear from behind.
To reverse slowly, we slip the clutch.
Because we turned away from the controls and because we're now steering the back of the car instead of the front,
reversing feels strange at first, but the unfamiliar feel passes after a little practice.
A good rule of thumb to follow is to keep the kerb parallel to the car and in line with the centre of the rear window.
We check the front from time to time.
Now we can move forward again.
Once more, the car must be completely stationary before changing from reverse to a forward gear.
Finding a parking spot soon becomes every driver's nightmare, particularly in the cities,
and most of the time we come upon one before we realise it and have to get in as best we can.
Obviously this is not the way to do it.
To get the back of the car in as well as the front, we need to reverse in.
So we'll drive slowly past the space, making sure that it is not a driveway or a fire plug
and that it is at least eight feet longer than the car.
We stop alongside the car in front and about two or three feet away from it.
We start to reverse slowly, quickly turning the steering wheel to the left,
which points the back of the car into the space.
As our front wheel levels with the rear of the other car, we turn the steering wheel to the right,
which brings our front end close into the kerb.
Moving forward, we now straighten up.
We try it again.
Pull up alongside the car in front.
Reverse gear.
Turn hard to the left as we begin to go back.
Our front wheel is level with the rear of the other car and we turn to the right to bring the front end in.
Straighten up.
Regulations require a space of four feet to be left front and rear between parked cars.
Four feet front and rear is enough space for cars to move in and out without damaging each other.
Parking on the right-hand side of a one-way street involves a similar technique.
By looking out of the driver's window, we can easily see the space we're backing into.
Give us an idea of what's happening.
As with all unfamiliar practices, the initial problems of reversing and parking are overcome
by practice.
We practice and practice and practice until method and judgment become almost second nature.
To be able to reverse in traffic quickly and neatly into a parking spot, this is a milestone
of an asset for any driver.
As we become more accustomed to the control and feel of driving the car, we automatically
give more attention to looking ahead on the road, sizing up the situation and planning
our next driving move.
Road observation depends particularly on concentration, for without this we tend to miss clues with
which to assess conditions ahead.
In order to correctly assess these conditions, we must have the ability to see clearly and
know what to look for.
But the factors which most affect our field of vision are not easily defined, so we will
illustrate the principles of these on this model.
One thing we need to consider at this stage is the factor points of vision.
Assume that the roads here are perfectly flat, that there are no buildings or other obstructions
in the way.
We will have unobstructed forward vision to the horizon.
This can be observed well in advance and suitable measures taken to avoid any mishap.
A very different situation exists where forward vision is obstructed by, for example, buildings
along the sides of the road.
We cannot see through the buildings and our forward vision becomes cone shaped, restricted
by the building alignments.
Although this is very obvious, the planned view helps us to fix it in mind and also helps
us to appreciate how much we cannot see and what little warning we will have of approaching
hazards.
Of course the situation changes as our position relative to the obstruction changes.
Our zone of visibility widens progressively until there is practically no obstruction
to total visibility.
And this clearly is the point to which we must approach with caution, prepared to take
any evasive action.
Zones of visibility and invisibility apply to any objects blocking our view.
The vehicle travelling ahead has a wider zone of invisibility the closer we are to it.
By dropping back we narrow this blind zone, thus allowing us to see more clearly the conditions
ahead.
Similarly, parked vehicles present a blind zone which diminishes as we pass, a zone which
can hide a person suddenly stepping onto the road.
New obstructions change the position of the zones of visibility as we progress.
We must always keep this in mind and drive accordingly.
In practice, the first essential is to be seated in the proper driving position.
Our view should cover the area to the front and both sides with properly adjusted rear
vision mirrors giving a clear view behind.
To see clearly, the windscreen and windows need to be clear and free from stickers and
dangling dolls.
These block the view and distract our attention even though we may not realise it.
Parts of the car door pillars and frames around the quarter light windows block the view too.
We learn to take these into account and to see around them by moving the head or slightly
changing our driving position.
Our speed of travel greatly affects our vision.
Driving fast, our eyes are drawn to the horizon.
That means that we are looking well ahead but we find that we don't notice other traffic
and objects in the middle distance as well as we should.
When we slow down, objects in the middle distance are easier to see.
The correct conclusion then is to drive at a speed which lets us see and avoid possible
dangers ahead.
When approaching corners or any obstruction, we must be conscious of our points of vision
and regulate our approach, course and speed accordingly.
Wherever we drive, as conditions vary, so too does ease of driving and the amount of
work we must do in interpreting the signs and clues provided.
The least complex road system is the freeway system which provides for lanes of fast flowing
traffic uninterrupted by lights or crossing vehicles.
Bridges or tunnels carry the cross traffic over or under the freeway.
While feeder lanes allow traffic to enter without interruption to the main stream.
Clearly marked signs provide clues of conditions ahead so we can anticipate directional changes
easily and carry them out safely and in plenty of time.
Freeway driving provides us with a minimal amount of interpretation although because
of increased speed, concentration is still essential.
On the main divided highways, driving conditions while still conducive to steady driving are
not as safe as on the freeways.
The number of hazards increase as lights, crossing traffic or pedestrians break up the
flow.
Again, directional and warning signs may be present but we must now rely more on interpretation
of clues which sometimes remain obscure and may suddenly appear.
Here parked cars on the left may hide someone suddenly stepping onto the road while on the
right two pedestrians are about to cross with a pram.
The driving plan must account for any emergency that may arise.
The road sign on the left warns of crossroads ahead and looking ahead we can see we are
approaching a controlled intersection.
The lights are green in our favour but we must approach at a speed which will allow
us to safely stop should they suddenly change.
The intersection is clear although on the left a car is about to enter our lane.
We must allow for him should he not give way to us.
Highways and other busy thoroughfares sometimes pass through suburban shopping areas where
the traffic flow is often slowed by crowded streets.
Crosswalks, jaywalkers, lights, crossing and slow moving traffic all add to the congestion
found in these busier areas.
Passengers may suddenly dart across the road or cars suddenly pull away from the curb.
The parked delivery truck before the crosswalk could easily hide a pedestrian about to cross
or a car about to enter from the side street.
We had better slow down here.
Looking ahead the pedestrian traffic lights are on red but closer to us we must be constantly
aware of the parked cars and their capacity for hiding crossing pedestrians especially
children.
The lights change to green we can accelerate through although not too fast.
The car directly in front may swerve to avoid the other parked cars.
By contrast the quieter suburban streets can often give a false impression of safety by
their apparent lack of traffic.
We must constantly look ahead and know what to expect in the different types of areas.
For example here we see a quiet street with no parked vehicles.
However there are numerous intersections close together and each a hazard.
In the suburbs houses, fences and trees often block visibility of side streets making a
series of blind intersections.
The temptation to speed up here could easily have disastrous results.
Perhaps the most frustrating and tedious area through which to drive is the city block.
Continued interruptions, slow traffic and distractions are numerous.
Crossing pedestrians may catch the eye and distract us from other more dangerous hazards
turning or illegally parked cars for example.
We must constantly look ahead and concentrate on the ever changing conditions.
Although streets may be wide tall buildings and overhanging shop roofs often cast contrasting
areas of light and shade.
A condition easily deceiving the eye which cannot clearly adjust for both at once.
Wherever we travel as drivers we must remain alert and concentrate on conditions around
us.
Whether on country roads or city freeways where higher speeds prevail or in the denser
city traffic which necessitates a slower traffic pace.
Whatever the conditions we should always travel at a speed which allows us to recognise and
interpret the clues pointing to conditions ahead and once recognised negotiate the hazards
quickly and safely.
In some cases the signs are clear.
In most they are merely clues requiring an interpretation.
If we can see clearly and interpret correctly we will be able to drive smoothly, safely
and confidently.
Many times each day this jet aircraft makes the complex adjustment from flying at 550
miles per hour 30,000 feet above the earth to a totally opposite status parked with
brakes on outside an airline terminal.
The transition is achieved with perfect safety because the pilot flies to a tried and proven
system.
His approach path, his communications pattern, his height, his speed, every detail of the
controls under his command all to a system.
This car now begins a journey which will present many hazards, some predictable, some unpredictable.
The journey however will conclude safely because like the aircraft the car is being driven
to a tried and proven system.
Once memorised and understood the system of car control soon becomes an almost instinctive
routine.
There are only six features to the system.
Each when considered in correct sequence assures the safe approach to and negotiation of every
road hazard.
We can study and analyse the system on this model.
We define a road hazard as any potentially dangerous traffic situation developing ahead.
The cross road hazard will serve to demonstrate the features of the system.
We are in the red car.
Our intention is to make a right hand turn at the crossroads.
Already then the first feature of the system is fulfilled.
We have decided on the course to be taken.
Feature one of the system, we decide what our intention is upon reaching the hazard
ahead.
In this case we shall make a right hand turn.
Feature one of the system, C for course.
Feature number two, mirrors and signal.
Mirrors to check for following or overtaking traffic.
Signal to inform following and approaching traffic of our intention to turn right.
We check mirrors.
The road is clear of following or overtaking traffic.
We make our right hand turn signal.
We have considered feature two, M and S.
Feature three, brakes.
Brakes are applied to ensure a safe speed of approach and arrival at the hazard ahead.
Feature three then, B. Going back to the beginning for a moment.
Feature one, we decide our course, right turn at the crossroads.
Feature two, mirrors and signal.
Check for following or overtaking traffic.
Signal our intended course.
Feature three, brakes, to ensure a safe speed of approach and arrival at the hazard.
Feature four, gear and mirrors.
We have reduced speed so we change to a lower gear which will give us flexible control over
the car.
We check mirrors for overtaking traffic and to confirm that it is still safe to make our
planned turn.
Feature four then is G and M.
We have arrived at the position for feature five of the system, evasive action.
Our zone of visibility has now been broadened and we have a clear view both ways into the
crossroads.
We look to the right, left and right again and in this instant we decide whether evasive
action must be taken to prevent any mishap involving our vehicle.
The road is clear and it is safe so we are ready to make our planned turn.
We need take no evasive action.
The final feature of the system, acceleration.
There are two alternative points at which acceleration may be commenced.
Normally A1, under good road conditions, acceleration begins when we start to negotiate the turn.
Alternatively if the road is wet or if there is any other condition involving the risk
of skidding, the approach speed is maintained to point A2.
Thus acceleration is commenced at A2 when the hazards meet negotiated and our car is
travelling straight ahead.
These then are the six features of the system of car control.
We'll run through it quickly once again.
We are travelling towards a crossroad at which we shall turn to the right.
We have decided feature 1, our course C. Feature 2, M and S, mirrors and signal.
Check for following or overtaking traffic and advise other road users of our intention.
Feature 3, B, brakes.
Applied to ensure a safe speed of approach and arrival at the hazard.
Feature 4, G and M, change to a lower gear for flexible control of the car.
Mirrors again checking for following or overtaking traffic.
Feature 5, E, A, evasive action, wide zone of visibility, evasive action taken if required.
Feature 6, A1 or A2, A1 acceleration if road traction is good.
Postpone acceleration until A2 if road surface conditions are suspect.
This is the system as applied to a right hand turn.
Exactly the same system is applicable to every change in road and traffic conditions.
We're now going to apply the system of car control to a practical driving situation.
We drive along a clear straight road as did the model car.
Ahead there is a crossroad.
Feature 1 of the system, course.
We are going to make a right hand turn.
Feature 2, mirrors and signal.
Mirrors to check for following or overtaking traffic.
Notable to advise other road users of our intention.
Feature 3, brakes, to reduce speed to a safe rate of approach and arrival at the hazard.
Feature 4, gear and mirrors.
We have reduced speed so we change to a lower gear for flexible control and again we check
mirrors for following or overtaking traffic.
Feature 5, evasive action.
The intersection is clear, no evasive action is required.
A1, the road surface is good so we accelerate around the corner which completes our negotiation
of the hazard.
For just one moment let's look at the model again.
The system is applied and we reach point A1.
Here we will give the acceleration points A1 and A2 their alternative names S1 and S2,
S for skid.
Points S1 and S2 are the points between which a skid will occur if incorrect acceleration,
steering or harsh braking is applied.
We should remember this in relation to every turning manoeuvre.
Acceleration points are also skid points if we apply incorrect acceleration, steering
or braking.
How does speed affect our driving?
Modern highways and expressways while allowing for higher speeds should not cause us to deviate
from the basic system.
If as in the model we approach a right hand turn at speed, for complete safety our turning
speed will be the same whether we approach it at 30mph or 60mph.
Thus our G and M, EA, A1 and A2 points will be constant but to arrive at these points
safely the first three features C, M and S and B will be considered and applied earlier.
The faster we travel the earlier we should decide our new course.
Following this our M and S will be earlier and to reduce from the higher speed braking
will need to be longer so braking too will be commenced earlier.
After reducing speed the remaining features of the system remain unaltered.
Let's see our system on this modern highway.
One interesting facet of this kind of roadway is the matter of speed.
Here we are travelling at 45mph, the legal speed limit.
With higher speeds in mind direction and warning signs have been placed to provide adequate
warning of required manoeuvres.
Our course at the moment is straight ahead.
Entering from a feeder lane is a car travelling at a slower speed.
Our course now is to deviate to the outside lane to pass.
M and S mirrors, all clear behind so signal to advise others of our intention.
No braking is required and we are in the correct gear.
Check the mirror again.
There is a fast car overtaking in the outside lane so we cancel our signal and allow him
to pass us.
Once he passes mirrors all clear behind so we signal and move out to pass the vehicle
ahead.
Cancel the indicator.
Our course is now to return to the centre lane.
Once we are clear of the overtaken vehicle so we signal that we are moving over.
Cancel the indicator.
Now our course is straight ahead, no other features of the system need be applied.
Ahead we wish to turn off the freeway to the left.
Mirrors all clear to change lanes so we signal and move towards the turn off.
Speed is too high to corner so we brake.
Under more flexible gear and check the mirrors before turning off.
On re-entering the city street evasive action is necessary.
We must give way to the cross flow of traffic.
Once clear we are free to accelerate and move out into the street.
The application of the basic system of car control to any driving situation requires
practice.
It is important to remember that although the system has six features not all are applied
to every situation.
For example on the model our car will drive straight through the intersection.
Not all the features will be applied in this situation.
The first feature, course is considered, C is straight ahead.
M and S mirrors to check the traffic situation behind but no signal required.
The correct approach speed is maintained, no braking required.
No gear change needed.
We are still maintaining our speed straight ahead and as we are aware of any following
traffic no mirrors required.
The intersection is clear of approaching traffic so no evasive action required.
And there is no need to alter our acceleration.
In this simple example the only features applied were course and mirrors once.
By observing conditions ahead the driver can maintain adequate speeds without continued
use of brake and accelerator.
Let's apply the system of car control using acceleration sense through a typical built
up area.
Hazard ahead, a railway crossing, mirrors all clear behind, no signal required.
Brakes unnecessary.
Gear change down to second and check mirrors.
All safe to accelerate across.
New hazard ahead, blind intersection.
Course straight ahead, mirrors all clear behind.
No signal required.
Slow down for this blind corner.
We are already in the correct gear, mirrors still all clear.
No evasive action to be taken so we accelerate across.
Changing up to a higher gear.
New hazard, controlled intersection coming up.
Course still straight ahead, mirrors, car passing in the outside lane but no signal
required.
Lights turn red.
To stop, check mirrors and brake.
Lights change to green so we select a gear for power, check the mirror and accelerate
across.
New course, deviate around the parked car.
Mirrors, all clear so signal to move out.
Evasive action necessary when the car suddenly moves off.
Check the mirrors and cancel the indicator as course is now straight ahead.
We can now accelerate.
Course is left at the corner.
Mirrors all clear behind and signal.
No brakes required.
We are in the correct gear.
Mirrors still all clear.
No evasive action necessary.
Accelerate around corner.
And change to a higher gear.
During this sequence, the system was considered six times but the application of the individual
features was much less than the maximum available.
The various features were considered 48 times, yet there were only 28 instances of actual
application.
The system of car control is not complicated.
There are only six features to remember.
Applied with reason and judgement which comes with practice, those six features provide
the priceless ability to negotiate any traffic hazard in complete safety.
In this film, we're going to extend our thinking about the system of car control and have a
look at the techniques of cornering and overtaking.
When a car changes direction, a number of forces push and pull in various ways, considerably
reducing stability.
We can have direct control over some of these forces but there are others which are not
so easy to command and these can present dangers.
We control the speed of a car with accelerator and brakes.
We control direction by steering.
If we're travelling fast and turning sharply, the car tends to roll towards one side.
The measure of this rolling action is directly related to speed and radius of turn.
Driving at 20 miles an hour around this corner produces some rolling action.
We take the same line or radius of turn at a much higher speed.
Obviously, the greater the speed, the greater the angle of rolling action.
This time we take a tight line, a sharp radius of turn around a corner.
Travelling around the same corner at the same speed, we make a more gradual turn, a wider
line.
And we show that the tighter our radius of turn, the greater the angle of rolling action.
The rolling action is a sideways force which, because the car is sprung, first causes it
to lean.
If the force is increased and the tyres lose their grip on the road, the car will slide
sideways.
However, if the force is strong enough and the tyres continue to grip the road or if
whilst sliding hit a low obstacle such as a gutter or a rock, the car will roll.
Just as rolling upsets a car's stability, so too does braking.
When the brakes are applied, the front of the car dips and the back tries to rise.
This is called pitching.
And the harder we brake, the greater the pitching.
When a car is both rolling and pitching, the driver is in danger of losing control.
If we slow down before reaching a corner, we reduce this danger.
If we take a wide radius of turn, we reduce it again.
On this model, we approach a right hand corner driving to the system of car control.
So we arrive travelling at the correct speed and fully aware of the position of any following
traffic.
If we turn the corner keeping well over to the side, this gives us a sharp radius of
turn.
However we can make a wider radius of turn by moving towards the centre, then out towards
the side of the road.
We now corner smoothly instead of turning sharply.
This is taking the correct line, provided it complies with traffic regulations.
Now a left hand turn.
Here our radius is around a tight corner.
To choose the correct line, we move out towards the centre, then around.
Now we're taking the smooth line instead of the tight turn.
If buildings or walls block our view around a corner, by taking the wider line, any obstacles
can be seen much earlier.
The line of vision from the obstacle cuts the wider line much earlier than the tighter
line, thus giving us more time to take evasive action.
Here again is the wide line on a right hand turn, across to the centre, and then out and
around.
Turning corners smoothly is a matter of judging the right speed and taking the right line.
To judge properly, we must be able to see clearly.
As we approach this corner, a stationary car is hidden from view.
Turning cautiously, we take a tight line and stop as soon as we see the other car.
As this is a demonstration, we mark the position at which we get our first view of the obstruction.
Then we approach again, taking a wider line.
The wide line obviously allows us to see the other car much earlier.
In a practical situation, this would have allowed much more time to stop or to take
other evasive action as required.
Cornering, like almost every other facet of driving, is mostly a matter of looking ahead
and to the rear, sizing up the situation to make judgements and planning sensible moves.
We watch the technique of this driver as he goes through a series of corners.
In traffic, if we're travelling close behind another vehicle, we can't see what is ahead
on our own side, and we can't see enough of the other side of the road to overtake
safely.
If we drop back, we get a much better view.
The general safety rule for following other traffic is to allow one large car's length
for every 10 miles an hour of our speed.
30 miles an hour, three car lengths.
40 miles an hour, four car lengths.
50 miles an hour, five car lengths.
Under adverse conditions, wet roads for example, it's better to double the distance.
Let's look at the system of car control as applied to overtaking.
Firstly, on a multi-lane highway.
Check both mirrors and at all clear behind.
I'm giving a signal to warn following traffic.
We move out to overtake.
Cancel the signal.
He is right and I'm in the right gear to accelerate past.
Once past, check the mirrors, I can see the overtaken car.
Give a signal and move back to the centre lane.
Alternatively, no diverging course may be necessary.
We're already in the overtaking lane and approaching the car ahead, so we keep going and accelerate
past.
Once past, check the mirrors.
I see him clearly behind, signal to move to the centre lane and move across.
Cancel the signal.
The road carries up over the hill ahead.
Speed is right, gear is right.
On narrower roads, overtaking is more hazardous as we often have to cross the centre line
and face oncoming traffic.
Under such conditions, our zone of vision should be large enough for us to clearly see
any oncoming cars to judge whether it is safe to pass.
I'll hang back and increase my zone of vision.
It seems safe to pass, so check mirrors.
All clear and signal.
Change down for power and recheck mirrors.
Still all clear, so pull out.
Cancel the signal.
The oncoming car is far enough away for me to overtake the truck, so accelerate and change
up.
Mirrors, I can see I'm past the truck, signal and return to the left side of the road.
Cancel the signal.
The road ahead is clear of traffic.
The good driver instinctively uses the system of car control and he uses it as it needs
to be applied in every driving situation.
In cornering, it gives him the correct approach, the right speed and the right gear so that
he can choose a smooth, safe line through the corner.
Driving is observing ahead and to the sides and the rear.
It is sizing up situations.
It is using knowledge and experience to apply sound judgement to every driving situation.
The driver who does this can be proud of his skill and aware that he handles his car with
safety.
The driver who does this can be proud of his skill and aware that he handles his car with
safety.
These cars are out of control.
We have seen how when cornering, forces push and pull on the car, affecting its stability.
A loss of stability often leads to skidding.
In this film, we'll see why a skid occurs, the basic types of skids and some of the corrective
action necessary.
However, because a car is out of control when it is skidding, avoidance rather than correction
should be the aim of every driver.
Firstly let us look at the rolling force.
This pushes the car from the side.
Springing will take most of the strain, but if the force continues, the tyres will lose
their grip on the road and the car will skid sideways.
Now let's see the effects of braking and acceleration.
Normally, the tyre grips the road and when the brakes are applied, the wheel stops.
There is no sliding.
Similarly, acceleration moves the car forward because the tyres grip the road.
But if the grip between the road and tyre is broken, by stones or water for example,
braking will become a skid.
And sudden acceleration will cause the wheels to spin.
In both cases, the grip was broken because either the brakes or accelerator we use too
suddenly for the road surface conditions.
Considering these factors, we can list as causes of skidding, excessive speed, course
or violent steering, fierce acceleration or excessive braking.
In order to understand skidding and how we may control it, let's break it down into three
main types.
One, the rear wheel skid, usually caused by excessive acceleration or speed when cornering.
This car approaches a corner at a speed excessive for the road surface conditions.
Combined with fierce acceleration at the corner, the rear wheels of the car lose their grip.
As a result, the back swings out of control.
By slowing the action, we can see that although the front wheels have managed to direct the
car around the corner, the rear wheels spin and again the back of the car slides out of
control.
Because the driver of the first car has the correct approach speed and acceleration for
the surface conditions, he corners safely.
The second car however is still cornering too fast.
How can we control the rear wheel skid once we feel it beginning to develop?
As the back of the car begins to swing out, we should turn the front wheels in the direction
of the skid, in this case to the left, while removing the foot from the accelerator, thus
reducing speed.
More slowly this time.
The back begins to swing out and as it does, the front wheels are turned to the left to
bring the car back into line, while the foot is removed from the accelerator until the
car is under control.
However we must be careful not to over correct or the back will skid in the other direction.
This time the driver negotiates a left hand corner.
As the back begins to skid out, he corrects with the front wheels without removing his
foot from the accelerator.
The result, an over corrected rear wheel skid.
To avoid rear wheel skidding, the correct approach speed to suit road conditions should
be applied for every corner.
Two, the front wheel skid, usually caused by excessive speed into a corner or course
steering.
This car approaches a corner at high speed.
As the front wheels are turned sharply, they lose their grip with the road and the car
continues to travel in a straight line.
This time by slowing the action, we can see that the front of the car does not respond
to the directional change of the wheels.
The car slides off the track.
Correction of a front wheel skid, especially at speed, is difficult.
Until the front wheels can grip the road again, the car will continue in a straight line.
Therefore we must straighten the front wheels, ease the foot from the accelerator and as
the wheels re-grip the surface, gently steer the car in the desired direction.
Three, the four wheel skid, caused by excessive braking, usually due to the approach speed
being too high.
This car approaches too fast for safe cornering.
When the brakes are applied, the wheels lock and the car skids straight on.
Then with slower action, we can see that both front and rear wheels lock.
To control this type of skid, we must unlock the wheels, which when rolling again, will
re-grip the road.
By then applying the brakes gently, the car will come to a safe stop.
If we pump the brakes so that the wheels lock and roll alternately, the car will come to
a fairly quick stop and we will regain some steering control.
If we need to corner in these conditions, we use the brakes on the straight to slow
the car and then gently steer around with all wheels rolling.
To be sure that we can control our car in slippery conditions, we must check that all
systems are operating correctly.
We must check brakes, steering and suspension and see that our tyres are at the correct
pressure and have plenty of tread.
We should also be familiar with the signs indicating potential danger spots.
Loose gravel, particularly on a corner at the bottom of a hill.
Roads worn smooth with dust and rubber.
With loose gravel at the side.
Unbanked corners or corners with the camber sloping away.
Painted road markings.
Wetness or greetiness makes these conditions much more dangerous and when they prevail,
we must be especially careful to avoid using the steering wheel, brakes or accelerator
suddenly or violently.
We should approach corners always with our system in mind.
Although it's possible to correct a skid, as we've seen, by the time we regain control,
the distance travelled may be too great to avoid collision or damage.
In half a second at 30 miles per hour, an out of control car travels 22 feet.
Our skill as a driver is measured by how well we can control a car and if we are skidding,
we are not in control.
A good driver recognises the dangers and avoids skidding.
If we're moving house, we tend to become very conscious about the value of our possessions,
even if we have ourselves treated them none too gently for years.
We like to insist that the moving men take all proper precautions.
Great-grandfather's fragile timepiece gets the full treatment in a surrounding cushion
of shavings.
Our car is constantly moving from place to place and we toy with the idea of the protective
cushion to preserve it from the ravages of outrageous fortune.
It was a nice thought but not very practical.
Just the same, the hazards are very real and a cushion, any cushion, would be a measure
of protection, even if it's only a cushion of air.
Cushion of air, the greatest invention since the wheel.
From now on, we'll never travel without one.
And the faster we travel, the bigger must be our cushion of air, one large car's length
for every 10 miles an hour of our speed and double it under adverse road conditions.
Just when we thought we had a perfect system, someone opens the door to new problems.
Click goes the computer mind.
To the cushion of air at the front, we add one to the left for protection from parked
cars, another to the right to preserve us from the pedals of oncoming traffic and another
to protect us from the rear.
It works like a charm.
So long as we maintain our cushions of air, not a thing touches us.
That's the theory.
Let's try it in practice.
At the moment, we don't have a safe amount of space in front.
When the van stops, we've enough room to stop but nothing to spare.
We can't move out, we're stuck and we'll just have to wait.
We can't even go back because the following traffic made the same mistake that we did.
We use our waiting time making decisions not to be caught again, resolving in fact to properly
surround ourselves with that safety space, that cushion of air.
Next time we do avoid the trap.
The van has to stop but our safety space gives us time and room to pass on the inside and
we've seen that it's safe to do so.
We remember that we must leave a safety space on both sides of the car as well as at the
front.
The space on the left allows us to pass parked vehicles without changing course when they
move out ahead or when a car door opens.
In a narrow street, we leave more room to the front which gives us that little extra
reaction time if something unusual should happen.
We need to be particularly aware of the safety space on our right.
The combined speed of our own car and an approaching vehicle adds up to a very sobering force.
We need enough time to think and move if something goes wrong.
Moving from the suburban streets to city traffic conditions admittedly increases the hazards
but because we will encounter more cars this doesn't change our thinking about the need
to maintain the safety space.
Traffic conditions like this can be frustrating to say the least but we can get on just as
quickly in the long run by holding back, sizing up the situation and planning our moves.
Our safety space allows us to do this.
It's also true that the odd impatient motorist may sneak into our safety space to steal a
move.
We let him go because one car's length of progress is a small price to pay for a drive
that's easy and relaxed because it's safe.
What is this driver thinking about as he goes through the dense traffic?
Steering around the corner, accelerating as we go.
Turning the viaduct, change to second.
Check the mirror.
This is a lined road, pedestrian on the road ahead.
Big truck up front, stationary vehicles on the left.
The traffic lights are green for us, it's all clear so we accelerate across.
This is a busy shopping area so I'm watching out for pedestrians suddenly stepping onto
the road.
Car cutting across ahead.
Lights on red, check mirrors and stop behind the line of traffic.
Handbrake on and gear into neutral.
Lights change to green, handbrake off, into first gear.
Watch the pedestrian crossing through the traffic.
Traffic begins to move, clutch out, away we go.
Intersection is clear, up to second gear.
Check the intersection, it's clear, accelerate across, staying in the correct lane.
After entering a two-way street, speed is right, change into top.
Quite a heavy traffic build up here and a few parked cars.
Check the mirrors approaching every intersection.
Traffic still heavy.
Ease off, check the mirrors and brake firmly.
Change down to second.
Traffic clears, I can hold the speed.
Traffic lights changing to red, check the mirrors and stop behind the car ahead.
Traffic on, it's a one-way street ahead.
Lights are changing, handbrake off, away I go.
Vehicles are moving alongside, pedestrian running along the road and others are crossing
up ahead.
The pedestrian lights are green for us so we keep going.
Checking the mirrors, all clear behind.
We must keep watching for pedestrians.
Passengers appear longer when put into words so the mental activity of our city driver
is more leisurely than it seems.
Our cushion of air or safety space is what then?
It is observation and reaction distance which allows us to cope with all the hazards we
meet even when driving in dense traffic.
And the experience we encounter reaffirms our resolution to maintain that safety space
at all times.
Stood by our cushion of air we can easily see the traffic ahead.
We can see situations developing and decide what to do long before we have to do it.
Driving in this kind of traffic is never pleasant but we can stay calm and patient and safe
so long as we have time to think ahead and make the proper decisions.
Peaks.
We've already discovered how safe relaxed driving depends upon looking ahead, judging
the situation and planning our moves before we make them.
The same basic rule of course applies to night driving too, but we need to have a look at
the different techniques involved.
Wherever we drive, our planning is guided by the road conditions, the warning signs
and the clues that we observe.
In daylight, we can see them all clearly.
We see the motorway leading to the city, the crossovers, the small streets leading to the
motorway and the movement of the traffic itself.
Driving to the city on a day like this, we would observe all these factors and adjust
our planning and movements accordingly.
At night, the same roads exist, the same kind of traffic flows along them, but all we can
see is lights, some static, some moving.
We can only assess and judge the situations if we can properly read the clues which the
lights provide.
Moving lights trace the path of the roads and so do street lights where they exist.
A city glow in the sky tells us that we're approaching an area where the traffic is likely
to be dense.
In fact, so far we've discovered that there will be fewer real observations to guide our
driving plans.
We will have to depend more upon the correct interpretation of clues to tell us what to
do.
We can't afford to miss any of these clues, so for night driving particularly, it's essential
to keep the windscreen clean inside and out.
And while we're at it, we wipe the headlamp lenses.
Just on them reduces their effectiveness.
Just because it's dark, we don't skip the pre-driving check of seating position, controls
and instruments, driving mirrors and seatbelt.
If anything, the extra concentration we'll need for night driving demands special care
of these important details.
With the headlights switched to high beam, we have a clearly lit area well ahead of the
car.
If we feel tempted to increase speed, we must allow for the fact that visibility will be
reduced when we have to dip our lights for approaching traffic.
And we have to remember the possibility of being dazzled by oncoming headlights.
Always avoid looking directly at oncoming lights.
It's better to look towards the left hand side of the road while remaining aware of
approaching traffic out of the corner of the eye.
Reflections in the driving mirrors from the lights of cars behind are almost as dazzling
as the lights from oncoming cars.
If we're following another vehicle, we think about this and dip our lights.
We need to be particularly careful about overtaking at night.
We can't see as far ahead as we can in daylight.
We dip our headlights, then prepare to pass in the usual way using the system of car control.
We move over, then flash our lights as a warning to the driver ahead that we intend to overtake.
If we feel uncertain about the road ahead, we pull back and wait.
Check the mirrors, signal.
Moving out.
Cancel the indicator.
Put the lights up to high beam to warn the other driver, then back to low beam.
Double lines ahead, check the mirrors, give a left indicator signal and move back to the
left side of the road.
Cancel the signal.
Stay a safe distance behind the other car.
The double lines are braking, the brakes on my side.
Check the mirrors and give a signal.
Pull out.
Cancel the signal.
And to warn the other driver, put the lights up, down, up and down.
All clear, accelerate past.
Now we're alongside, lights go up to high beam, checking mirrors to see we're safely
past.
Signal and get back to the left side of the road.
Cancel the signal.
If it's suitable to travel at the same speed as a vehicle ahead, we stay a safe distance
behind him, our safety space or cushion of air, and we let him do the guiding.
It's much easier.
His headlights will light up the road well ahead and his braking lights and indicators
will warn us of turns and dangers ahead before we have to encounter them ourselves.
In the built up areas we come into the influence of street lighting conditions, but their illumination
is patchy and we have to drive with our lights dipped.
So we really have to concentrate on the road.
Although the street lights tell us that the road is straight, we can't see the full distance
because our lights on low beam are not strong enough.
Also street and shop lighting and signs tend to distract our attention and affect our eyes
more as we get towards the centre of town.
The ever changing light patterns make our eyes work harder.
From the direct glare of lights and signs, traffic and pedestrians may appear only as
silhouettes.
It's a good example of the use of clues rather than direct information.
It reminds us that we must keep alert, look ahead and plan our moves.
We're likely to feel tired when driving home after work or late at night when we've been
visiting friends.
We need to be particularly careful.
On a long drive, tiredness can soon become sleepiness and this is very dangerous.
At the first sign of drowsiness, we must stop the car, get out and relax.
We stretch the limbs, rest the eyes, move around a bit.
Any change from the now familiar driving posture helps to make us alert and ready to drive
on again.
Night driving is more complicated than driving during the day.
Some of the signs and clues are different.
Driving in the dark requires more concentration.
However, if we use the rules, all of them, intelligently adapted to suit the changed
conditions, night driving presents no problems which cannot be surmounted confidently following
a little practical experience on the road.
No oh yes, yep shh.
We couldn't afford that.
All kinds of theories have been put forward to explain exactly what
it is that makes a good driver. Some people claim to be born with the neck,
others say long practice, others again expert tuition. Someone once said treat
all others on the road as if they were homicidal maniacs.
But the truth is knowledge, skill and self-discipline make this man a good
driver. Being aware of the responsibilities of driving he has taken
the trouble to learn how his car works. He uses this knowledge to make sensible
routine checks for road worthiness. Whether he performs the servicing himself
or leaves it to a qualified mechanic he knows what needs to be done and he is in
a position to judge when maintenance has been carried out properly. The good
driver understands that concentration can be affected by the human element. He
never begins to drive a car if he is physically tired or bad-tempered. He
refuses to be distracted by stress, anger or anxiety. He understands the
frustrations of driving in traffic and never takes chances in order to steal a
march on other motorists. He quickly checks before moving off all the
instruments and gauges, driving position, steering, brakes, accelerator, rear vision
mirrors. From this moment on he will be looking ahead, sizing up the changing
traffic situations, judging planning movements ahead. He will in fact be
driving exactly to the system of car control. He has practiced the system so
that its features come readily to mind without the effort of conscious thought.
Because he is seated properly he is able to see clearly and to move head and
shoulders easily. He knows exactly where the controls are so that hands and feet
find them instinctively as they are required. He never has to look to see
where a lever or a pedal is. He operates the controls smoothly, almost
automatically, yet his timing is a matter of choice, not the repetition of a
thoughtless routine. He uses pull push steering for precise control. His grip on
the wheel is light but can be tightened instantly should the need arise. Gear
changing is brisk and smooth using the double declutch system, but this reduces
wear and tear on the engine and transmission. All the time he is
applying the features of the system of car control. Change down to second gear
for flexibility. Check the mirror, check the intersection, all clear, accelerate
across.
We're in a divided carriageway with two parked vehicles on the left. A blind
intersection ahead so we'll stay in second gear. The pedestrian on the foot
path looks as if she might cross the road. Check the mirror, ease off, check
right, left, right again. The pedestrians waiting so we keep going. More parked
cars on the left. Another cross intersection ahead, we're turning here so
we'll check the mirrors and signal. Ease off and brake to a safe turning speed.
Change down into first gear, recheck mirrors, check intersection right, left
and right again. And round we go with pull push steering, accelerating as we go.
In dense city traffic he drives carefully, maintains his safety space,
holds back and plans his moves.
Once clear of the town limits the good driver may take advantage of open roads
to increase his speed, but he is well aware that the faster his speed the
further ahead must be his observation, assessment and reaction time. He remains
fully alert to notice any signs or clues which will warn of unseen dangers ahead.
Coming into a corner he judges the right speed and line to reduce rolling and to
give adequate vision ahead.
At night our good driver is aware of the limitations of vision. What he can't see
he regards as a hazard.
Overtaking at night can be dangerous. He knows this and uses extra care and
concentration to remove all risks from the manoeuvre.
Changing patterns of lights can play tricks with the eyes so he stays doubly
alert and does not fall into the trap of speeding up in the lighted areas.
He knows the dangers of skidding, he knows what causes a car to begin to skid
but when road conditions look dangerous his concentration is to avoid a skid
rather than to work out how to correct one. The good driver parks his car
easily, he knows how much space he needs. He is careful to see that his parking is
not going to inconvenience anyone else. Knowledge, skill and discipline make him
a good driver. He took the trouble to learn how and why and when. He practiced
the skills until his control of the car became expert, his observation and
reaction became faultless, his assessments became reliable. His discipline is a
matter of always being in control of himself, his vehicle and of every traffic
situation that he encounters. He's a good driver, how about you?
There's a new series of words attached to car make and model names and there's a new
look in car control mechanisms. In these vehicles one of the pedals has
disappeared but most importantly a whole new driving technique is with us. We're
converting to automatic. The basic components of the automatic transmission
car are still the same. The motive power is generated by the engine and engine
power is transmitted to the driving wheels. It's the manner of transmission
which has changed. Gone is the conventional gearbox and with us is the
automatic transmission. Obviously it's a highly complex mechanism so let's confine
ourselves to basics. There is no clutch in the traditional manner. It has been
replaced by a torque converter which can be demonstrated in this way. The gold
electric fan will be turned by its motor when we switch on the power.
Now the blue fan begins to turn. It's being driven by the pressure of air
forced across its blades by the movement of the gold fan. As the speed of the gold
fan is increased more air is forced onto the blades of the blue fan increasing
its speed of rotation and that is the principle of the torque converter which
uses oil instead of air. The driving member connected to the car engine, the
driven member connected through the transmission to the driving wheels of
the car. In practice the torque converter is fully enclosed and is filled with oil.
The unit is made more efficient with the addition of a torque multiplier and very
little energy is lost in the operation of this substitute for the conventional
clutch. And here's the automatic transmission, the substitute for the
manually operated gearbox. Its objective is to transmit engine power applied at
this end to the output shaft here which is connected to the driving wheels of
the car. When starting a stationary car or climbing steep hills we need a fast
engine speed to produce a slow powerful output shaft speed. For normal driving we
need less engine speed to provide a faster output shaft speed. The
transmission mechanism produces these changes of ratio and it produces them
automatically as required. Although the engine always turns in the same direction
the output shaft must rotate in the opposite direction when the car is to be
driven in reverse. This change of direction is also produced in the
transmission mechanism. Unlike the conventional gearbox the automatic
transmission works around a single shaft with all gears in constant mesh.
When this brake band is applied the internal gear is locked and a low ratio
of movement is applied to the output shaft. When the band is released and a
clutch is applied to lock these planetary gears a high ratio of movement
is applied to the output shaft.
When the band is applied and all components of the planetary gears are
locked by clutches the effect as we can see is to produce a change in direction
of turning on the output shaft. In other words the car will now travel in reverse.
In the automatic transmission then gears are not changed. Gear ratios are changed
by locking or freeing various components of the mechanism. An exquisitely complex
hydraulic system operates the transmission mechanisms. Fortunately all
we need to know is that there are three control centers. The first is connected
to the selector control and indicates the driver's wishes to the magic
mechanism. The second is connected to the engine manifold and tells the
transmission what is the load on the engine at every stage of its operation.
And the third control center is a governor on the output shaft of the
transmission. This provides information about the road speed of the vehicle.
Working together the three control centers automatically regulate the
transmission of engine power to the driving wheels according to engine load
and road speed conditions.
Surfacing of the automatic transmission is of course a job for an expert. The
owner should be able to check the oil level of the automatic transmission. In
this car there is a dipstick located near the engine oil dipstick. How do we
take the oil level reading? Do we start the engine first or not? Makes and
models vary so we always check the manufacturer's handbook first. Engine is
running. Engine oil dipstick, automatic transmission dipstick.
And the level is right. With all other items checked in the usual way we're
ready to try the new experience of driving the automatic. As an experienced
driver the pre-starting routines come quite naturally before we even start the
engine. The handbrake is on. We check it and this is particularly important when
driving the automatic transmission car. We adjust the seat. Driving position is
comfortable and all controls are reached easily and naturally. Proper rear vision
is essential. The interior and the exterior driving mirrors are adjusted. Vision
ahead and to the sides is good. All door locks are checked. The seatbelt is
fastened and adjusted across the hip.
We check that the selector is in the P, the parked position. This is the safest
position for starting the engine of an automatic transmission vehicle. We
recheck the handbrake and switch on the ignition. There is enough fuel. Oil light
is working. Generator light is working. Temperature light will only glow if the
engine overheats. This car has an automatic choke. The maker's handbook
explains how to use it. Here the accelerator is depressed to the floor
and gently raised. We start the engine waiting during the brief warm-up period
for oil to circulate and we're ready to drive away. We move the automatic
transmission control from the P position to the D position. With the car
stationary the lowest ratio is selected automatically. We check rear vision
mirrors, signal with the indicators and release the handbrake. The car has begun
to creep forward on its own. This will happen with automatic cars with the
selector in D, the handbrake off and the engine running at a fast idle. When for
instance the choke is in operation with a cold engine. The solution is simple.
We'll try it again. Engine is running at a fast idle. Handbrake is on. Selector is
in P. We move it to D. We check mirrors and make our signal. Before releasing the
handbrake we apply the foot brake using the right foot and this holds the car
until the moment when we're ready to move. Check the mirrors. It's all clear.
Release the foot brake. The car begins to move. Apply light pressure to the
accelerator and we're driving the automatic transmission car. There's no
need to change gears. The automatic transmission will do that for us. The
ratios will change when indicated by road speed and engine load. It's as simple
as that. We decide to stop. It's only a matter of lifting the right foot from
the accelerator, moving it to the foot brake and braking in the normal way. The
car stops. The engine continues to idle. To move off again we check mirrors, make
a signal, take the foot off the brake and accelerate gently. For short stops
there's no need to change the selector out of the D position. In fact it's a
good idea to leave the control in the D position for all forward driving, at least
until we've become thoroughly familiar with the vehicle. In some circumstances
we may wish to change to a lower gear while travelling at a moderate road speed.
This can be done by the use of kick down. The accelerator is depressed sharply
which has the effect of overriding other controls and prompting the transmission
to change to a lower ratio. It's a useful device for occasions when greater
acceleration is required, for instance when overtaking. Alternatively we may
move the selector to a lower range position. This immediately prompts the
automatic transmission to change to a lower ratio and to remain in that
range irrespective of an increased road speed. Because the transmission remains
in the low ratio we have a useful device for using the braking power of the
engine for steep descents or approaching hazards in the correct gear according to
the system of car control.
To reverse the automatic transmission car presents no extraordinary
difficulties. We stop the car, foot off the accelerator, ease on the brakes. The
selector is in the D position, engine is idling, the car is being held stationary
by the foot brake. Instead of forward drive we want reverse. The car of course
must be absolutely stationary before we set the selector to R. The road behind is
clear. We release the foot brake and apply gentle acceleration. To stop, foot
off the accelerator and apply the foot brake.
Let's go over the controls in detail and we'll do that with the handbrake on and
the engine off. We have two pedals accelerator and brake. The right foot is
always used for accelerator and for applying the foot brake. Once the car has
actually stopped an experienced driver may at times use the left foot on the
brake pedal particularly when maneuvering in a confined space. Here's the
selector, the device which finally proves who is really driving this automatic car.
P is for park. It locks the transmission so the car cannot move. We always make
sure the selector is at P when starting the engine. R for reverse. No problems
there so long as we remember that the car must be absolutely stationary before
we select the R position. N is neutral. We use it when the car is stationary for
longish periods with the engine running. D for drive. This is the position which
the driver selects to instruct the automatic transmission to think for
itself. In D the transmission will change its ratios according to road speed and
engine load. L position engages the low ratio. The automatic transmission will
not move to high ratio irrespective of road speed and engine load. We engage L
to use the braking power of the engine on long steep descents. L is useful also
if we're climbing a long steep hill with many sharp bends and we can use L to
approach a traffic hazard in the correct gear according to the system of car
control. In D position we can prompt the automatic transmission to engage low
ratio by kick down sharply depressing the accelerator and this manoeuvre we may
use when we need extra acceleration for overtaking for instance. Let's see how
the automatic behaves in normal traffic conditions. We're in the built-up area.
Speed is about 30. Selector is in D. At the moment transmission is in high ratio.
Hazard ahead is an intersection. We shall turn right. Course is right. Mirrors
clear enough behind. Signal right turn. Brakes. Brakes slightly to reduce speed.
Gear and mirrors. Transmission has changed to low ratio automatically.
Mirrors still clear enough behind. Clear ahead and to each side. No evasive
action. Begin the turn. Accelerate at A1. All clear ahead. Accelerate and the
transmission changes to high ratio automatically. As we've seen the
automatic transmission car is perfectly under control when driven to the system.
Let's try a hill start. Check the mirrors. All clear behind. We simply pull into the
side and apply the foot brake to stop.
The selector is in D. The engine is idling. The car is held on a foot brake.
Now the handbrake takes over to allow the right foot to use the accelerator.
The road behind is clear. As we accelerate we release the handbrake and
we move off to an easy expert hill start.
The age of the automatic transmission is with us. Sooner or later most motorists
will be driving automatic cars. There are differences from the techniques involved
in driving a car with manual gear change but then there have always been changes
in driving technique as car makes and models have changed and evolved.
The automatic has only two pedals. The selector control is at first unfamiliar
but a study of the manufacturers handbook meticulous application of all
the good driving habits we've learned and a sensible familiarization of the new
techniques with these principles the good driver will have no problem
converting to automatic.
you
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