Hi, I'm Dr. Jeff Werber and I would like to thank you for welcoming me into your home
today to talk about your new Cocker Spaniel.
I'm a graduate of the University of California-Davis School of Veterinary Medicine and I'm a small
animal practitioner in the Los Angeles area.
Ever since I was a kid, animals have been a part of my life and I'm sure that as your
relationship with your new pet grows, you'll soon appreciate the important role it will
play in yours.
What I would now like to do is discuss your new dog with you and review some basic principles
about dog care in order to help you optimize your pet's good health.
This video tape is loaded with useful information and I certainly don't expect you to be able
to digest it all in one sitting.
We've therefore incorporated a color coding system to help add to this tape's efficiency.
You may have noticed on the back of your tape box, there's a series of colors which correspond
to the subject matter that we'll be discussing today.
This is for your convenience to quickly locate subject matter of interest to you by either
fast-forwarding or rewinding to the section of the tape you want to see.
And now let's talk about your new Cocker Spaniel.
Sometime in the 1880s, the first Cocker came to the United States.
There are two offshoots of the Cocker Spaniel, the American Cocker and the English Cocker,
the American being the smaller of the two.
Now they are two distinct breeds and interbreeding is forbidden.
The Cocker was originally and in some circles is still used as a gaming and hunting dog.
He is known to have a high degree of intelligence and is readily trainable and possesses a steady,
even temperament.
He is happy, bright, understanding and loyal.
It is the Cocker's in-between size and his pleasing disposition that is responsible for
his popularity.
He is not a toy and not a lap dog, but don't be fooled, he can certainly take care of himself.
He is a wonderful children's dog.
He loves to romp with them, yet is equally exuberant and happy, tramping in the woods
and fields.
He adapts to most environments.
Today, because the Cocker is such a popular dog, he spends much of his time in apartments
and is only taken out on a leash, thus never really able to enjoy his freedom.
But he is so adaptable that he seems just as happy being close to his family.
Obedience and child dog, par excellence.
The first few days your new puppy is home will be the most difficult for both you and
him.
It is a shock for a puppy to suddenly not be around its litter mates and mother anymore,
so you want to make him feel as wanted as possible.
Though you'd probably like to share your room with your new family member, and I bet he'd
like it too, for housebreaking reasons it may be best to confine him to a smaller area,
preferably on a linoleum or tiled floor, like the kitchen or bathroom or service porch,
or even in a crate, but we'll get more into housebreaking later.
I would suggest providing your puppy with a bed, a chew toy, and even an alarm clock
with a loud ticking noise, as this often has a soothing effect on him.
Make sure the bed you select discourages chewing and is large and comfortable enough.
By the way, be prepared for some crying those first few nights, especially if you keep the
puppy in an area where he can't see you.
Whatever you do, don't go to the puppy, pick him up and give him hugs, because this will
positively reinforce the crying, and he'll do it even more the next night.
Be strong and ignore the whining, you'll be glad you did.
Also, try not to pick your new puppy up and carry him around too much, as this will surely
spoil him, and if yours is a large breed puppy, you'll be sorry you set the precedent when
he's not so small anymore.
It also may be a good idea, at least for the first few days, to feed your puppy the same
he was being fed at the breeder or the pet shop or at the kennel, since changing the
diet abruptly can lead to intestinal problems like diarrhea.
Remember, your new puppy is experiencing enough change as it is, so keeping its diets consistent
for at least a few days is recommended.
Monitor your new friend carefully and make an appointment to see your veterinarian as
soon as possible for a puppy examination.
Be watching for things like vomiting, diarrhea, depression, lethargy, or anything that doesn't
seem quite right.
Diarrhea, for example, in a young puppy can be due to many things, like parasites, like
dietary change, viral or bacterial infections, or even stress from being in a new home.
Also remember to bring a small amount of your puppy's stool with you to the veterinarian,
since your vet will need this to diagnose intestinal parasites.
Before we talk about your puppy's first veterinary examination, let's take a minute to discuss
how to go about choosing a vet.
If this is your first pet, or at least the first one in a while, how do you find a veterinarian?
The best way is to get a recommendation from your friends or neighbors who have pets.
If they don't, you can either check your Yellow Pages or call your local veterinary
medical association, or even check with your local pet store for a recommendation.
Remember that your new puppy is like a new baby, and you should feel as comfortable with
your veterinarian as you would a pediatrician.
The veterinarian you choose should meet all of your expectations, and don't settle for
anything less.
When bringing your puppy to your veterinarian, be prepared to answer a lot of questions.
Since your puppy can't speak for himself, you will have to do the talking for him.
This information is very important to your veterinarian, and the more you can provide,
the more help you'll be to him.
He'll ask you about your dog's general well-being.
Has there been any vomiting?
He may want to know what food you are feeding and how often.
He will ask you if your dog's bathroom habits appear normal.
Has there been any diarrhea, excessive urination, any straining?
He'll want to know if your dog has been scratching or if you've seen any lesions.
How about any discharges from his eyes or nose?
He'll basically want to know about any and all problems your dog may be having.
As you can see, it's very important to observe your puppy or dog carefully prior to his veterinary visit.
Veterinarians have different techniques with regards to examining your pet.
As long as everything gets accomplished, it doesn't make any difference what order he
or she uses.
I like to start at the head end and work towards the rear.
Helping me today will be my assistant, Mara.
Thank you.
Hey.
Starting at the nose, I'd be looking for any discolorations or discharges or crusts around
the edges.
Looking at the eyelids and eyes, I'll be checking for the presence of any aberrant lashes or
eyelashes growing in the wrong direction, putting a little pressure on the eyeball.
And to also check the lids to make sure they're not rolling inward.
This is a condition called entropion.
Looking at the eyeball, just looking for corneal clarity and also checking that the lens and
the sclera look okay.
A condition that's very common in the cocker spaniel is called cherry eye.
This is an enlargement and protrusion of the gland of the third eyelid and basically something
that needs veterinary attention.
Treatment for this problem can range anywhere from a partial removal of the gland to a little
more acceptable treatment today, which is a tucking of the gland.
A problem with removing it is that as the dog gets older and may need some of that extra
tear production that that third, the gland of the third eyelid affords, if the gland
isn't there, then may predispose the dog to a dry eye.
Checking the mouth, I'll be checking the puppy's teeth, both baby and adult.
Depending on your puppy's age, he may have some baby and some adult teeth in the mouth
at the same time.
Normally, the first baby teeth to fall out are the incisors or front teeth.
And this usually happens at about three and a half to four months of age.
And by five and a half to six months of age, all of his baby teeth should be out of the mouth.
You may sometimes notice that a puppy has a baby tooth and an adult tooth in the same socket.
This is a problem called retained deciduous teeth and is something which can lead to problems
and therefore requires veterinary attention.
While examining the mouth, I should like to check the tonsils, the roof of the mouth,
and just to check the bite, make sure there's no malocclusion, which is a poor alignment
between the top and the bottom dental arcades.
Then I'll look at the ears, and a puppy looking for any discharges, may have some ear mites,
any hair in the ears, and certainly in a cocker spaniel adult, I'll take a good look here
because oftentimes adult cocker spaniels have ear problems.
Then I'll take a look at the neck, feel around, feeling for the lymph glands and the salivary glands,
do the same in the shoulders, and then begin my chest examination,
where I'll be checking the heart and lungs just to make sure everything sounds normal.
Listening at the heart, I'm interested in the heart rate, rhythm, and valve sounds.
Then I'll make sure the lung field is nice and clear.
And then I'll slide back and listen to the belly just to make sure the gut sounds okay.
And then I'll slide back and listen to the belly just to make sure the gut sounds okay.
Then I'll take a feel for the belly, and I'll also check for presence of umbilical or inguinal hernias.
Then I'll check the skin and the coat, make sure everything's okay,
check for fleas, any sores, any dryness.
I'll ask the owner if he or she had noticed any lesions or areas of hair loss,
which might indicate a mange mite infection.
And then I'll go ahead and check the hind end, check under the tail, check the anal glands,
and it's here that I'll oftentimes take temperature.
The average temperature of a dog should be between 100.5 and 102.5,
or even up as high as 103 if the puppy's excited.
In males, here I'll check the scrotum just to make sure the testicles have descended.
Lastly, I'll take a look at the feet and the limbs,
and often ask the owner if he or she's noticed any limping.
A basic puppy exam is just a good way that I can take a good look at your puppy
and examine him from head to toe.
One of the most important things your puppy will need are its vaccinations.
These injections will help ensure the early health of your new friend
and help maintain that same level of good health as he grows and matures.
The timing of these injections is very important,
so I want to take a minute to review the vaccination schedule with you.
During the first 24 to 36 hours of nursing,
a puppy receives natural maternal antibodies from its mother's colostrum or early milk.
This is called passive immunity,
and in most instances this protection should usually last at least six weeks.
This concept is very important because if a vaccine is given too early,
say prior to six weeks, it can actually interfere or neutralize this maternal antibody,
leaving your puppy with little to no protection at all.
Therefore, a commonly accepted schedule calls for giving a puppy his first vaccines
at seven to eight weeks of age
and continuing the vaccinations at three to four week intervals
until the puppy is 15 to 16 weeks of age.
A protocol which many veterinarians use is an 8, 12, 16 week schedule
and some even like a 9, 12, 15 week schedule.
What diseases do we commonly vaccinate for?
Firstly, there is canine distemper virus.
This is a very serious disease and can prove to be fatal.
Because of the success of the distemper vaccine,
this disease is fortunately not nearly as common as it once was.
Some of the symptoms to be concerned about are coughing, sneezing,
runny eyes, runny nose, vomiting, diarrhea, or even muscle twitching and seizures.
The virus can be transmitted via the discharges of an infected dog and is highly contagious.
The best prevention is by early vaccination.
In the same inoculation comes a vaccine against canine hepatitis,
a viral disease which can also cause a multitude of signs.
Puppies with this disease may appear very thirsty and have a high temperature.
The third part of the same vaccine will protect against leptospirosis,
a bacterial disease which affects mainly the kidneys causing diarrhea
and brownish discoloration of the jaws, teeth, and tongue.
This bacteria is shed in the urine or feces of infected animals.
A fourth part of this inoculation will protect your puppy against parainfluenza,
a virus which causes upper respiratory infections.
The next disease, parvovirus, is another very serious one
and may or may not be included in the distemper vaccine that we've just discussed.
Whether incorporated in the same syringe or administered separately,
there is no proven difference in the efficacy or effectiveness of this vaccine.
Parvo is a relatively new disease having been first discovered in 1978.
It is a highly contagious and sometimes fatal disease.
Some of the signs to look for are depression, anorexia, vomiting, bloody diarrhea.
Since the virus is found in the feces of affected dogs,
the best way to help your puppy avoid contracting this disease
is to keep him away from other dog stools during his walks
and to make sure he receives his parvovirus vaccines.
Other vaccines commonly used are for coronavirus, another intestinal virus,
and bordatella bronchuseptica, a bacteria which also causes upper respiratory infections in puppies,
like kennel cough, for example.
The last vaccine your veterinarian will administer is the rabies vaccine.
Rabies is a severe and usually fatal disease which attacks a dog's central nervous system.
You may note severe signs such as staggered walking, foaming at the mouth,
or even jaw drop in the later phases.
It is transmitted via the saliva of an infected animal, usually by a bite wound.
Even if your pet should be bitten by a rabid dog or other animal,
he can still possibly be saved if you get him to your veterinarian in time for a series of injections.
As this disease is a public health hazard and can affect humans,
the vaccination is required by law.
Each state has its own requirements with regards to the age of the dog at its first rabies inoculation,
the booster vaccinations, and the type of rabies vaccine which is acceptable.
Consult your veterinarian regarding your state's specific requirements.
Should your puppy or dog exhibit any of the disease symptoms mentioned here,
make sure to bring him to your veterinarian for an examination.
There are less serious conditions which can cause these same signs.
So with a good examination and appropriate tests,
your veterinarian should be able to make a correct diagnosis and provide the necessary treatment.
As I mentioned earlier, there are a number of intestinal parasites which commonly affect puppies
and can affect your adult dog as well.
Many of these parasites are passed to the puppies by the mother during pregnancy or nursing,
while others result from infections from contaminated fecal waste material.
The tapeworm and the heartworm infection result from insect bites,
the flea in the case of the tapeworm, and the mosquito in the case of the heartworm.
Except for the tapeworm infection in which you can usually make the diagnosis yourself
by seeing worm segments in your dog's stool or dried segments
which look like rice grains around his anus or in his bedding,
and the heartworm infection which requires a blood test and oftentimes an x-ray to make a diagnosis,
the other intestinal parasites most often shed only eggs or cysts in the stool.
So your veterinarian must make the diagnosis via fecal tests.
Those other parasites which may affect a puppy are the true worms such as the roundworm,
the hookworm, and the whipworm, and the protozoan parasites such as coccidia and giardia.
Your veterinarian can easily distinguish between these parasites by the eggs or cysts which they shed.
Once accurately diagnosed, your veterinarian can choose the appropriate treatment for your pet's parasite infection.
Many veterinarians will not recommend you worm your dog or puppy with over-the-counter worming products.
These products are not very specific and oftentimes will have no effect on the particular worm your dog may have.
My recommendation is that before purchasing any worm products for your dog or puppy,
please consult your veterinarian.
In the case of a tapeworm infection, since they do come from fleas,
your veterinarian will probably recommend concurrent flea control.
It doesn't pay to treat the tapeworms without also taking care of the culprits, those fleas.
What should I feed my puppy?
How long should I feed it puppy food?
Which toys are okay? Does my puppy need vitamins?
These are questions that we as veterinarians are often asked,
and I would now like to take a few minutes to answer them.
You should try to feed your puppy puppy food.
Puppies, especially those between 8 and 18 weeks of age, have extra vitamin, calorie, protein,
mineral requirements for growth and development, which may not be met by feeding many adult dog foods.
As far as brands are concerned, any commercial brand is okay,
though many veterinarians and breeders recommend the pet store or veterinary brands.
The pet store and veterinary brands have more calories and thus more usable energy per volume of food.
Because of this increased efficiency, your dog can eat less of this food
and still receive all the nutrients and calories he needs.
This helps you by having less feces to clean up.
Additionally, because you don't have to feed your dog as much of this food,
it is actually less expensive than it may seem.
My only recommendation is that you try to avoid the generic or plain-wrap foods,
especially during your puppy's early growth period.
Try to feed your young puppy, those under 4 months of age, 3 times daily.
Multiple feedings are also very helpful when it comes to housebreaking.
If this is not possible, twice a day feedings will do just fine.
Some puppies continue to eat twice a day throughout their first year,
while others may start showing a preference to eat just once a day, sometimes as early as 6 months of age.
Most small and medium-sized dogs can start eating adult dog food after one year of age.
In the larger breeds, however, which are still growing into their second year,
many veterinarians now recommend you continue feeding these dogs their puppy food
for one and a half to two years instead of one.
And when making that switch to adult food,
I recommend you do it nice and slowly over a few day period,
as this will help avoid problems with diarrhea.
What about canned food versus dry food?
There really are no specific guidelines.
Puppies seem to like canned food better than dry,
but most owners, because of their convenience, seem to prefer to feed dry food over canned.
So what it really boils down to is personal preference.
Whether you decide to feed all canned food, all dry food, or a mixture of both,
don't overfeed.
Keep your dog lean and don't let him get fat.
Obesity is as much a problem with the dog as it is with man
and can predispose your puppy or dog to a variety of problems.
Obesity is extremely difficult to deal with since it is very hard to get your dog to lose weight.
And just as a warning, doggy treats, which are okay as snacks,
if used in moderation, are extremely fattening.
Use them. Don't abuse them.
Table scraps are also fattening, and feeding them to your dog or puppy will surely spoil him.
Please remind your house guests and children to avoid this practice as well.
It is always good to give your dog something to chew on,
so keep this in mind if you elect to feed him canned food.
Speaking of chewies, there seems to be quite a bit of controversy with regards to which ones are safe.
The fact is all dogs need to chew.
With puppies, chewing regularly helps induce normal tooth growth.
It assists in getting rid of the baby teeth at the proper time,
and it helps align the permanent teeth to assure normal jaw development.
I feel the nylon bone and plastic polymer bone products like Nylabone or Gummabone are extremely safe,
since your dog will be unable to break off large chunks, and they seem to satisfy the urge to chew.
Chew sticks made of pressed rawhide chips are also fairly safe,
as only small pieces break off as they are worn down.
The problem I have with rawhide bones and chew sticks made of sheet rawhide is,
as the dog's saliva softens them, they unravel,
allowing your dog to tear off large chunks, which may cause him to choke.
And finally, soft rubber products, especially the squeaky ones, are also potentially unsafe,
because a dog can easily tear these up and either choke on or swallow large pieces of rubber,
or the plastic noise maker, causing problems with intestinal obstruction.
Because these latter items are so popular, and many dogs really seem to like them,
I make the following recommendations.
One, if possible, remove the plastic noise maker from the squeaky toys.
Two, do not allow your dog or puppy too much unattended playtime with these products.
You can always leave them alone for longer periods with a nylon bone.
And three, check these toys frequently, and at the earliest sign of wear,
such as tearing of the soft rubber toy or the softening or unraveling of the rawhide toy,
throw them away and buy your dog a new one.
I also do not recommend giving your dog large butcher-type knuckle bones
or letting your dog play with old shoes or old articles of clothing for these same safety reasons.
Knuckle bones, for example, can splinter into sharp pieces, and shoes often have nails in the heels.
Anyway, even the most intelligent dog would have a pretty tough time distinguishing
between the old work shoes you have given them to play with and your new dress shoes.
Much controversy also exists over the question of vitamin and mineral supplements.
Might they be helpful? Might they be harmful? Might they be totally unnecessary?
Unfortunately, the answer to all these questions is yes, and therein lies the problem.
Because of the complex nature of this issue, my recommendation is simply
that you discuss this topic with your veterinarian before starting your puppy or dog
on any vitamin or mineral supplements.
As you can see, there is a variety of collars and different styles and materials to choose from.
Your pet store representative or trainer will gladly assist you in choosing the right one for your dog.
My only recommendation is that you are able to fit two to three fingers comfortably under the collar,
and remember that as your dog grows, so must the size of its collar.
When buying a collar, you may also want to order a personalized name tag for your dog.
This ID may come in very handy should he ever be lost.
Exercise is very important for your puppy, and though some exercise is essential,
too much can be harmful, particularly during a puppy's early growth periods.
The growing bones and muscles of a puppy need a certain amount of movement and stress
in order to develop properly, but too much stress and pounding can have a deleterious effect
on joints and skeletal structures surrounding the joints.
This is especially true with those large breed dogs, which are at a high risk for developing hip problems.
In addition to feeding these dogs puppy food for an extended length of time,
and avoiding supplements, especially calcium, it is also recommended that these dogs be allowed
only moderate levels of exercise with no persistent pounding,
such as they get while jogging on pavement or playing on other hard surfaces for extended periods of time
until they are at least two years of age.
What I would recommend as a good moderate exercise would be a 20-minute brisk walk,
which by the way is good for you too, or taking your dog to the park
and throwing a tennis ball or a frisbee around for 20 minutes.
All in all, proper nutrition and exercise is essential throughout the life of your dog.
For your own sanity, and certainly for the well-being of your house,
furniture and other personal property, you'll soon want to consider training your puppy.
Also, as I'm sure many of you have realized by now, it's not always so easy for that little character
to master housebreaking.
Here to assist me by talking to you about housebreaking and puppy training is Michael Chill,
an animal behavior specialist and professional dog trainer for over 12 years.
Hello Michael.
Hello Dr. Werber.
Hello Michael.
Hello Dr. Werber.
There are two basic methods for housebreaking puppies.
The most common is paper training, and it's ideal for young puppies between six and eight weeks of age.
Choose a room in your home. Your kitchen or a small bathroom will do nicely.
Lay papers over the entire floor and put your dog's bed, his food and water dishes, and a few chew toys inside.
This room will serve as his living area, and you need to keep him here at night,
while you're at work, and any other time when you cannot directly supervise him.
Since there's paper covering the entire floor, obviously your puppy will use it to relieve himself.
After a few short days, he'll begin to associate the smell of newspaper with the act of eliminating.
Allow him out of his area, but only under your direct supervision.
And, since puppies eliminate quite frequently, return him to his area often, especially at key times,
which is after he plays, when he wakes up from a nap, and after he eats or drinks.
In a few days, your puppy will be running over to the paper on his own to relieve himself.
At this point, you can begin to reduce the amount of paper you have covering his floored area.
Some people stop right here.
Toy breeds whose owners have long work hours are the usual candidates for full-time paper training.
To housebreak from this stage, simply remove the paper from his area.
Instead of taking him here during key times, take him outside to a newspaper you've already placed.
When he relieves himself outdoors, praise him and bring him back in.
You'll need to repeat this several times throughout the day.
For the first night or two, leave paper down just for security reasons.
But after two or three days, you should find him staying clean throughout the entire evening.
At this point, you can then begin to increase his living area to include adjacent rooms.
Paper training itself takes usually five to ten days for most puppies.
Housebreaking from there depends on a couple of different factors, such as how diligent you are and the age of your puppy.
If there are too many accidents, you're probably asking too much too soon.
Denning, or crating as it's sometimes known, is another effective method for house training your puppy.
Buy a flight kennel box from a pet shop.
It should be big enough for your puppy to stand in, lie down, and to turn around.
That's it.
Put your puppy inside with a Nylabone for amusement and let him get used to it for about an hour or so.
Although most puppies cry when their foos put in, they adjust rather quickly.
Dogs have a natural tendency to keep themselves clean, so the time spent inside the kennel box will encourage your dog to develop bladder and bowel control.
After the first hour or two, take your puppy outside.
When he relieves himself, praise him and bring him back into your home.
Supervise him for about half an hour and return him outside if he needs to eliminate.
Put him back in the kennel box for another few hours.
You are to put your puppy in the kennel box at night, when you're out of the house, or any other time you cannot directly supervise him.
The kennel box is not to be used for discipline or as punishment.
It is simply used to teach your dog to hold it.
Taking your dog outside after a stay in the kennel box will teach him when and where to eliminate.
The supervised time indoors will teach your dog to behave in your house without eliminating on your floors.
After about seven to ten days, most puppies fall into the pattern very, very easily.
You can begin to leave the kennel box door open and your puppy will still not eliminate his immediate surrounding area.
Denning is ideal for older puppies, for housebreaking them, as well as a way of keeping them out of trouble when you can't watch them.
Dogs are den animals and tend to feel more secure in small confined spaces.
Also, most puppies sleep about 18 to 20 hours a day, so denning is a good way of teaching them to adapt to your schedule.
Which method you choose depends on a variety of factors.
Puppies do not develop full control until they're about 10 to 12 weeks of age.
So for young puppies, since they need to eliminate frequently, I'd recommend paper training.
Also, dogs purchased from pet shops are usually used to eliminating in their display boxes.
And since the kennel box would not produce the desired effect, you may want to paper train these puppies for a few days.
Older dogs, however, denning is an ideal technique to train them as it allows for fewer mistakes and is a much faster technique for housebreaking.
Some people even combine both techniques.
They paper train during the work week when they're gone and then done on the weekend when they can devote more time to training their puppies.
Mistakes are inevitable and how you discipline is very, very important.
Proper discipline is a must.
Come upon an accident in your home, go get your puppy and bring him over to the area he soiled.
Never call your dog to you for discipline.
Show him the mistake and tell him no firmly, then release him.
Take the mistake to where you want your dog to eliminate.
If it's urine, soak it up in a napkin.
If it's feces, pick them up in a napkin and take them outdoors.
Go get your dog, bring him outdoors to where you've relocated the mistake.
Show it to him and give him lots of praise.
That's it. It should be very, very simple.
After a few minutes, throw away your paper towel and return inside.
Clean the soiled area with a good odor neutralizer and pet stain remover available at most pet shops.
Do not use household cleansers or disinfectants as they contain chemical and ammonia smells,
which will just re-attract your dog to the same area.
Training your puppy should start the moment you bring him home.
Things like jumping and chewing may seem cute while he's young,
but can actually become quite annoying or even dangerous as he gets older.
Discourage this behavior now.
When your puppy jumps on you, tell him no firmly,
then simply kneel down to his level to teach him to greet you while he's still on all fours.
If you catch your puppy chewing on something he shouldn't, correct him for the good, firm no.
Wait a moment, then hand him a chew bone to teach him what he should be chewing instead.
Keeping things out of his reach can help avoid problems before they start.
Most veterinarians and pet shops sell products that actually discourage chewing.
It would be a good idea to get some of this to treat things you can't keep out of his reach.
Buy your puppy a soft collar made of nylon or leather and take him for short, frequent walks on a leash.
Bring him in public and teach him to behave and see things like other dogs, noise, people, and traffic.
Exposure and socialization is very important at a young age.
I highly recommend you take your adult dog to your veterinarian at least once a year
to help ensure his continued health and well-being.
Firstly, the vaccination series, which your dog received as a puppy,
now needs to be continued in the form of booster vaccines
to reinforce his immunity against the various diseases we have previously discussed.
There are many different practices regarding these booster schedules.
Some veterinarians will administer an initial six-month booster, followed by annual boosters.
While others may continue to give six-month boosters against some diseases throughout your dog's adult life.
In my practice, for example, we vaccinate against parvovirus every six months
and administer the distemper combination vaccine once a year.
As I mentioned earlier, your veterinarian will instruct you
with regards to the rabies revaccination schedule appropriate for your state.
Certainly, if your dog starts exhibiting any signs of problems or unusual behavior,
please see your veterinarian. It's better safe than sorry.
And remember, since an adult dog is still susceptible to intestinal parasites,
I recommend you bring in a stool sample for analysis with your dog,
even during his regular annual visits.
Beginning the examination with the nose, I like to look for any crusting, discolorations or discharges.
Looking at the eyes, I'll first check the eyelids, checking for growths or aberrant lashes.
Then I'll check the cornea and lens for clarity.
Many older dogs will have uniform clouding of the lens called nuclear sclerosis,
which is a normal old age change and causes no problems.
However, some older dogs may develop a little bit of a sclerosis,
which causes no problems. However, some older dogs may develop cataracts,
which can cause vision impairment and is a condition which requires veterinary attention.
Cocker spaniels often have problems with epiphora or excess tearing,
which could be caused by eyelid problems or plugged tear ducts and require veterinary attention.
Overactive tear glands, another common cause, generally causes no discomfort
and is simply an aesthetic problem.
Then I'll examine the ears, looking for any discharges, hair growth or masses within the canal or pinna.
If I notice any abnormalities or if the owner had mentioned any ear related problems,
I'll take a closer look with the otoscope.
Otitis externa and inflammation of the external ear canal is a common problem in cocker spaniels
and should be treated by your veterinarian.
Checking the mouth, I'm looking for signs of dental or oral disease,
such as broken teeth, exposed roots, gum recession or tumors,
and lastly for the presence of tartar.
I usually recommend that owners brush their dog's teeth daily.
Canine toothbrush and toothpaste kits are available through your veterinarian.
Moving to the neck, I'll be checking for the presence of any masses
and I'll palpate the lymph nodes.
Then I'll go ahead and do the same in the shoulder area.
I'll take a closer look with the otoscope.
If I notice any abnormalities or abnormalities within the canal or pinna,
I'll take a closer look with the otoscope.
I'll palpate the lymph nodes.
Then I'll go ahead and do the same in the shoulder area.
I then examine the chest, making sure the heart sounds are normal and the lung field is clear.
Listening to the heart, I'm checking heart rate, rhythm and the valve sounds.
In the chest, I'm making sure there are no abnormal pulmonary sounds,
like wheezing or rails.
Then I'll listen to the gut sounds.
And finally go ahead and palpate the abdomen.
Moving on to the skin, I'll check carefully for ectoparasites like fleas or ticks.
Then I'll look for scabs, sores, scaling, or any areas of hair loss.
I'll check both top and bottom because the ventrum is a common leave of hair.
I'll check both top and bottom because the ventrum is a common leave of hair.
I'll check both top and bottom because the ventrum is a common leave of hair.
I'll check both top and bottom because the ventrum is a commonly affected area.
Skin disease is a common problem in cocker spaniels and can be due to flea allergy,
food allergy, or even atopy, which is a pollen allergy.
We also see many cocker spaniels with seborrhea.
I'll then check under the tail, examining the anal area, looking for any growths or abnormalities,
and to see if the anal glands are full or impacted.
In males, I'll palpate the scrotum, checking for testicular abnormalities,
and I'll check the vulva in females.
Lastly, I'll check the musculoskeletal system, palpating the limbs and joints,
and check the feet for birds or foxtails.
Remember, regular visits to your veterinarian will help to ensure
a happy, healthy life for your cocker spaniel.
As an adult, your dog's nutritional requirements are different than when he was a puppy.
Though there are some conditions under which an adult dog will need to be on a high plane of nutrition,
such as pregnancy, lactation, or even high stress working conditions,
but under normal conditions, he actually needs less calories per pound body weight
than he did as a growing puppy.
Therefore, as I mentioned previously, you should switch to an adult dog food
at about one year of age for smaller and medium sized dogs,
and one and a half to two years for larger breed dogs.
The recommendations I made earlier regarding your puppy's food still hold true
now that your puppy has grown up.
Since the pet store or veterinary brands are so highly calorie and nutrient efficient,
they are most commonly recommended for your adult dog's needs.
Also, because of their high efficiency, you can get away with feeding less of this food,
which is easier on your pocketbook,
and your dog will leave less of a mess for you to clean up.
However, there are many other brands commercially available which are acceptable.
Once again, I recommend that you try to avoid the generic or plain wrap foods.
As your adult dog ages or develops any medical problems, he may require a special diet.
Fortunately, many pet food companies have developed foods to meet these special needs,
and your veterinarian will be happy to discuss these diets with you should the need arise.
The need to chew, as evidenced in the puppy, continues throughout the dog's adult life.
This chewing is good for teeth cleaning, gum massage, and jaw exercise.
It also provides an outlet for doggy stress and tension.
As far as my recommendations are concerned,
please refer to the discussion in the puppy section of this tape,
as the suggestions I made for your puppy still apply for your adult dog as well.
Does your adult dog need vitamins?
Again, this is such a controversial issue, and every dog's needs are different.
I recommend you consult with your veterinarian regarding your own dog's specific requirements.
As with your puppy, exercise is extremely important for your adult dog.
It provides cardiovascular benefits, it helps maintain good muscle tone,
and it helps prevent obesity, which is even more difficult to control in an adult dog than it is in a puppy.
You should try to avoid running your dog on hard surfaces for extended periods of time,
but should it be necessary to do so, work him up to it gradually
and check the pads of his feet frequently for signs of wear.
Moderate forms of exercise such as brisk walks or playing frisbee or ball at the park
are also ideal for your adult dog.
Geriatric dogs may have skeletal problems like arthritis or other partially debilitating conditions,
so please ask your veterinarian about an appropriate exercise plan for these more fragile friends.
Now that your dog is hopefully housebroken
and is leaving your furniture intact and house in one piece, what do you do now?
Basic obedience training, that's what you do.
And here to talk to you about basic obedience training is, once again, Michael Chill,
our behavior specialist and dog trainer.
Formal obedience training should start when your puppy is about four to five months old.
This is the age when your puppy's attention span is beginning to increase,
and he is developing an improved ability to remember things.
Basic obedience training for the house pet consists of the training commands of
heel, sit, stay, down, and come,
and should include the concept commands of no and okay.
These training commands specifically address many of the problems experienced by most pet owners,
such as jumping, leash pulling, and bolting through doorways.
At the same time, training makes your dog more manageable
and gives you control to handle behavioral problems such as barking, digging, or chewing.
You should also gain skills to address specific temperament problems
such as excessive aggression or shyness.
Tools for obedience training include a six-foot training lead,
a choke chain, and a 15-foot lunge line.
Treats should never be used for training.
Your dog should respond because you want them to, not because they're looking for a bribe.
Most good training programs include discipline with lots of positive reinforcement.
Discipline should be firm, yet not severe or abusive.
Never hit, kick, or knee your dog.
Positive reinforcement and praise is vital in creating a happy dog who wants to behave.
Methods vary from trainer to trainer,
yet most utilize the principles of behavioral conditioning and modification
in addition to training the dog and educating you, the owner.
Programs for basic obedience training include in-home private training courses,
group lessons, and kennel and board training programs.
The most effective program is in-home private training,
where a trainer comes to you and trains both you and your dog in your home
where most problems occur.
The cost of private training can be well worth the investment.
Group lessons, often held in city parks, are a fine, low-cost alternative to private training.
For some breeds of dogs that are typically more aggressive or shy,
group lessons can be preferred as they afford an ideal opportunity for exposure and socialization.
Kennel and board training programs is the most expensive way to train your pet
and should only be considered for severe problems or for advanced guard or protection work.
Check the credentials of your trainer before you enroll in any particular program.
Ask lots of questions as to the methods employed,
especially those that pertain to your individual problems.
Remember, your participation is vital to the success of your program,
and whether or not your dog gets trained is really up to you.
What are the real facts about spaying and neutering?
Most veterinarians highly recommend you have it done.
Certainly, if your dog is of show quality, you may want to breed it,
assuming, of course, he or she has no hereditable problems.
So then, spaying can certainly wait.
I recommend spaying and neutering simply because it's good for your dog.
In addition to population control, and there are millions of dogs and cats
who get to sleep each year in United States Pounds and Shelters,
there are also definite medical and or behavioral advantages to having the procedure done.
Firstly, to dispel many myths,
a female dog need not experience an estrus or heat in order to become sexually mature.
As a matter of fact, if you have your female dog spayed after six months of age,
but prior to her first heat, which is usually around seven months of age,
you can decrease the risk of her getting mammary cancer as an older dog by about 98%.
If she has her first heat and you spay her prior to her second,
the risk reduction decreases to 80 to 85%, which is still pretty good.
If, however, she is spayed after her second heat or after a litter,
the surgery will provide no mammary cancer risk reduction.
To help you better understand this,
mammary cancer in female dogs is roughly ten times more prevalent than it is in women.
Still, if you have an older female who has already had two heats,
there are other advantages to spaying, such as the prevention of ovarian or uterine cancers,
ovarian cysts, metritis, and pyometria, which is a serious uterine infection.
Since the treatment of choice for these conditions is spaying,
by doing it before these problems arise, you'll be practicing good preventative medicine.
As far as the males are concerned,
there isn't the same urgency associated with early neutering for medical reasons as there is for early spaying.
However, there are some distinct behavioral advantages to early neutering,
and I therefore usually recommend that any male dog six months of age or older
that will not or cannot be used for breeding be neutered.
If you have a breeding male dog,
I recommend he be neutered once he's no longer being used for breeding anymore,
or at least by the age of six to seven years.
Neutered male dogs are less apt to roam or to break through every gate, door, or window,
possibly looking for a female dog in heat.
It is interesting to note that most dogs found dead on the highways are non-neutered male dogs.
Neutered males will also be less aggressive to other male dogs,
especially in the presence of a female dog.
It will not, however, affect their aggressive territorial or watchdog behavior,
nor will it affect their general nature and personality.
On the medical side, neutering will help prevent prostatitis, prostate cancer, testicular disease,
and also perianal adenomas, which are very painful glandular tissue growths around the anus.
The successful management of many of these problems is neutering.
So why wait until you have to neuter your dog?
Why not do it now as an elective procedure?
You'll both be better off.
Finally, to dispel another popular myth about spaying and neutering,
these procedures will not leave your dog fat and lazy.
By neutering or spaying your dog, it will become less sexually active.
Because of decreased sexual activity, your dog may experience an overall decrease in activity.
For example, your male dog won't be running around constantly looking for a possible escape route out of your house or yard.
You may need to compensate for this decreased activity by either cutting back his food
or spending a little more exercise time with him.
One last advantage, a spayed or neutered dog will make a better house pet.
As I mentioned earlier, one important facet of the general examination is a skin examination.
And since skin disease and skin parasites are such a major problem in puppies and dogs,
I want to spend a few minutes on this important topic.
We've talked about internal parasites and how they affect your pet.
Now let's discuss the external or ectoparasites.
We've already learned that mosquitoes are responsible for spreading heartworm disease
and that fleas can cause tapeworm infections.
But did you know that fleas are also responsible for causing a severe skin allergy in dogs called FAD, or flea allergic dermatitis?
In this disease, the flea saliva acts as a very potent antigen.
Many dog ticks also act as vectors for the spreading of various infections,
like Rocky Mountain spotted fever, which is a potentially fatal disease of man,
or ehrlichiosis and babesiosis, which are blood parasites of dogs.
Ticks can also cause an anemia in dogs from sucking blood,
and some can even cause total paralysis in their host.
There are a variety of mange mites which are of interest to both you and your veterinarian.
The sarcoptic mange mite, or scabies mite for example,
is a highly contagious mite which can affect both you and your dog.
This mite will cause severe parietis, or itching, hair loss, and skin crusts,
especially around your dog's head, ears, neck, and underside.
Another very common mite found more often in puppies is the ear mite,
which will cause your puppy to scratch excessively at his ears,
often leaving a dark exudate or discharge.
The third mite, most commonly found in dogs, is the demodectic mange mite.
This mite burrows deep into hair follicles, causing areas of hair loss.
Though the mite itself does not cause much scratching,
a skin infection is often associated with this mite and can cause scratching and sores.
Demodectic mange can present itself in two forms, one localized,
which causes a few solitary lesions, and the other generalized.
There may be a hereditary basis to the development of this generalized form,
and therefore many veterinarians recommend that you don't breed dogs
that have generalized demodectic mange.
Your veterinarian's approach to the treatment of these two forms may differ from each other,
as a generalized form has potentially severe ramifications.
This infection is found mostly in puppies and in animals under stress,
and it is therefore felt that there is some relationship between the mite
and the animal's immune system.
Interestingly, in most dogs, the demodectic mange mite is a normal skin inhabitant.
One last skin infection, sometimes seen in puppies and dogs,
especially those exposed to cats, is ringworm.
This is a fungal infection, which can present in many forms,
but most of you will recognize the red, round, raised lesions, which can be very itchy.
And be careful, you can get it too.
You may be able to see some of the ectoparasites on your dog, such as the flea and the tick,
while your veterinarian will have to diagnose others by a thorough skin examination and skin scrapings.
You can certainly help your veterinarian by letting him know if you have seen any lesions on your dog,
or if you have noticed your dog or puppy scratching a lot.
If you do notice any little critters growing on or stuck to your dog,
or any unusual sores or areas of hair loss, please take him to your veterinarian for an examination.
Though it is tempting to want to treat your dog with over-the-counter baths and soaks and creams,
these conditions have very specific treatments, so an accurate diagnosis must first be made,
and only then can the appropriate treatments,
which usually involve medications not available to you over-the-counter,
be administered by your veterinarian.
Whenever possible, your veterinarian will then have you continue the treatments and medications at home.
When it comes to flea control, your job is a very difficult one.
You must attack three areas, your dog, the house, and finally the yard.
And to be successful, you must treat these three at the same time.
For your dog, you want to kill the fleas on him, then provide a residual protection to keep them off.
This is best done by a flea bath, followed by sprays or powder or a dip.
There are also internal products which can be used and are only available to you through your veterinarian.
One, a pill given orally, and the other, a liquid which is applied to your dog's back between his shoulder blades.
These are very strong medications which should be used with caution and only under your veterinarian supervision.
Other popular flea control products are the flea collars and medallions,
which many veterinarians feel have only limited efficacy.
Organic remedies such as yeast and vitamin B1 tablets work, in theory, through the eccrine sweat glands.
While we have these glands over much of our bodies, dogs only have them on the pads of their feet and the tips of their nose.
Consequently, yeast and B1 might help keep the fleas off of you,
but are relatively ineffective for your dog.
I will say, however, that you shouldn't argue with success,
and if you've been using these and they seem to be working, by all means, please continue.
As far as home treatment, you have the option of a professional exterminator
or using foggers or premise sprays which are available through your veterinarian or pet store.
Fleas live in the environment, not on your pet.
They only jump on your pet for a meal and sometimes to breed.
In fact, it is estimated that for every one flea on your pet, there are about 100 in the environment.
You can see why environmental control is so important.
Finally, to treat the yard and outdoor kennel, you can either use a professional exterminator
or do it yourself with dusts or sprays like malathion or diazonon.
Again, consult your veterinarian or pet store representative for more information.
Something very important, please check with your vet before using any chemicals on your pet.
Be especially cautious with puppies and debilitated animals.
Also, never mix chemicals without first checking with your veterinarian.
Two separate, safe and effective chemicals can be fatal if combined or applied to your dog at the same time.
As I've just discussed, the treatment for many ectoparasites and skin diseases requires baths or dips.
Baths as treatments for skin-related problems should be given under the recommendation of your veterinarian,
while baths for fleas and ticks can also be done by a groomer or pet store.
Now let's go through a typical grooming procedure.
The first thing your groomer will do when a dog comes in for grooming is check the skin for dryness
and for parasites such as fleas, ticks and lice.
If she finds any parasites, she'll give the appropriate bath to remedy the problem.
If she notices a severe skin problem such as eczema, bacterial skin lesions or open sores,
she'll then recommend seeing your veterinarian.
Next, she'll check the ears for odor or discoloration.
If these are present, the dog should be checked by your vet.
Then she'll check for hair growing in the ear canal.
This should be only removed by your groomer or veterinarian to prevent damage to the ear.
Next, she'll check the eyes for pussy discharge or swelling,
and anything noticeable should be checked by your veterinarian.
Then she'll check the mouth for odor and check the teeth for tartar buildup.
Teeth should be cleaned by a veterinarian.
She'll then check the nails to see if they need to be trimmed.
Because of the danger of cutting the quick or vein of the nail,
trimming should be done by the groomer or veterinarian.
While checking the nails, she'll also check between the toes for the presence of any burrs or foxtails.
These should be removed carefully.
Foxtails can cause abscesses, and these will need to be treated by your veterinarian.
Before bathing, the dog should be thoroughly brushed,
and beginning at the feet, the hair separated and brushed layer by layer,
so the brush goes through the coat without resistance.
After brushing, a comb is run through the coat, checking for tangles.
If there are any, the groomer will stop and re-brush the tangled area until the mat is removed.
After the dog is brushed, she'll proceed to bathe him.
Wetting the dog from the feet up, shampoos apply to the tail and head area first,
being certain to avoid the eyes.
Then she'll proceed to lather the rest of the body, making sure the shampoo reaches the skin.
After allowing the shampoo to remain on the dog for about five minutes,
she'll begin her thorough rinse.
She may repeat the rinse two or three times,
because any remaining soap could cause irritation to the dog's skin.
If needed, an appropriate dip would now be applied.
Then the dog is dried, either by air drying or with a blow dryer,
and after he's completely dried, he'll be brushed again.
Flea baths and dips can be done weekly if needed.
There's a common misconception that heavy-coated dogs should be clipped for the summer.
This is not true if the breed has a thermal undercoat,
as this actually acts as an insulator and keeps him cooler.
Check with your veterinarian or groomer to determine what's best for your dog's needs.
Well, I've thoroughly enjoyed spending this time with you today,
and I hope you now have a better understanding about your dog.
I'm sure he'll bring many years of fun and pleasure into your home.
Whenever you need clarification about a question or problem that you may have,
review the appropriate section of this tape by using the color-coding method as I described earlier.
Lastly, I welcome all questions and comments,
so please write to me at the address on the screen if you have any.
And while you're at it, why don't you send me a picture of your dog?
I would love to hear how all of you are doing.
Thanks again, and all the best.
I hope you enjoyed this video.
Please like, share, and subscribe.
And if you have any questions, please leave a comment.
I'll be happy to answer them.
Thank you for watching.
See you next time.
Bye.