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Welcome to the Ortho video series. These tapes are designed for you and me, the average homeowner.
We'll see ordinary people in real life situations complete a variety of home improvement and repair projects.
And we'll be given all of the step-by-step information that we need to successfully complete the jobs ourselves.
Each video in this series has been produced in segments, much like chapters in a book.
Each segment is identified by a color and number which corresponds to the titles listed in your video package.
Before you view the project segment that you're interested in, set the counter on your video recorder to zero.
And as you view each segment for the first time, jot down your counter numbers in the boxes provided on the inside of the package.
In the future, use these numbers for quick access to the information you want, when you want it.
There is no need to watch this video all the way through.
Feel free to fast-forward to any segment that you're interested in, or reverse to a specific section that you'd like to see again.
And then replay it to study the particular information in detail.
I'm sure you have a project that you're eager to get started on.
Enjoy the program!
Electricity. One of the most ordinary things in the world.
We live with it and use it daily. It flows almost unnoticed into and out of most modern homes.
And the only time we think much about it is when something goes wrong, like when we plug in a heater and the lights go out.
Or when we flip on the wall switch, nothing happens.
The purpose of this videotape is to acquaint you and me, the average homeowner, with everything we'll need to know to do routine home wiring.
From learning to strip a wire to actually putting in additional outlets, we'll see how to rewire a lamp and install new light switches,
as well as do more complicated jobs like replacing light fixtures and adding receptacles.
Each segment in this video will cover a specific area of basic home wiring.
They are ordered in the following sequence.
ABCs of electricity.
Rewiring a lamp.
Replacing receptacles.
Replacing ceiling fixtures.
Installing switches.
Extending circuits.
These procedures assume that your house has been wired in accordance with local and national codes.
If you have any doubts, ask a professional.
Also follow these basic safety rules.
Never touch a bare wire or any metal that is touching bare wire.
And do not touch electrical fixtures, switches, or appliances when you are wet or standing on wet ground.
More and more homeowners are beginning to do their own electrical repairs.
With a little know-how, the average person can safely and easily perform most routine wiring jobs.
All we need is a little knowledge and some confidence.
Let's start with the basics.
Electricity enters your home through your meter box.
From there, it goes to your main disconnect.
Now this is most likely to be a breaker type disconnect.
In older homes, however, it may be a fuse or a fuse drawer type.
Whatever the type, the main switch allows you quickly to turn off the entire electrical system in your home.
From the main disconnect, electricity goes to your service panel.
By tripping a switch or by unscrewing a fuse in this panel, you can turn off the electricity to specific circuits in your house.
There should be labels on the inside of the service panel showing which circuit breaker turns off what circuit in your home.
If there isn't a list on your service panel, you should make one.
It'll take some time, but it's worth it.
Now, there are three types of circuits in most homes.
Those for general lighting and in many homes, the outlets.
Separate circuits for small appliances and individual circuits for each major appliance.
NEC, the National Electric Code, determines the number and types of circuits necessary for your house.
You should consult your local building department if you're planning changes or additions to the circuits you now have.
The wires that carry electricity in all those circuits come in many different sizes and types.
So, which wire should you choose for your particular electrical project or repair work?
Well, that depends on the type and location of the circuit or appliance and particularly upon your local codes.
Now, a competent electrician can assist you in your decisions affecting the basic types of electrical work described in this videotape.
Whatever the cable or wire you choose, you should know some basics.
Let me show you with this piece of non-metallic cable.
Incidentally, non-metallic cable is used for the wiring in most homes.
As you can see, this cable has three wires while this one has four.
The color coding indicates the wire's function and helps you maintain a circuit when connecting wires.
This one wrapped in black insulation is called a hot or load wire.
You may also find it in red or blue, but usually it's black.
This white wire is the neutral wire and the bare one is the grounding wire.
Sometimes it's green or yellow.
Never rely solely on color coding for identification.
To be sure, use a continuity tester.
I'll show you how later.
In your repairs and projects, you'll usually join black wire to black wire,
white to white, and ground wire to ground wire.
Or perhaps you'll attach each color to a specifically colored screw.
On a receptacle, for example, you join the black wire to the brass or hot screw,
the white wire to the silver or neutral screw,
and the ground wire, you guessed it, to the green screw.
Now there is an exception to this normal coloring scheme.
It's called a switch loop.
In a switch loop, the incoming power is looped through the on-off switch before it connects to the light.
Notice that the white wire leaving the switch to feed the light is now a hot wire.
To indicate this, mark each end black by wrapping them with electrician's tape.
Before you join wires or attach them to screws,
you need to strip off the insulation with a wire stripper or a multipurpose tool.
A knife blade will work, but the blade might very well damage the wire.
This cable stripper is used to take off the sheathing of the cable.
First, you have to remove about eight inches of the sheathing to get at the wires inside.
Slip the stripper over the cable, squeeze the blade through the sheathing, and pull.
Then you bend back the covering and cut it with a knife.
Now, let's use a multipurpose tool to remove the insulation from the individual wires.
Put the wire in the proper size groove, rotate the tool, and then pull off the insulation.
If the wires multistrand, twist the wires together so they don't fray when tightened into a terminal.
After the wires are stripped, you can join them to other wires or attach them with screws.
Now, here's a receptacle with screws.
The secret of connecting a wire to a screw is to wrap the wire clockwise around the screw.
So, when you tighten the screw, the wire is pulled in the same direction.
Never attach more than one wire to a single screw.
Instead, make a pigtail with a wire nut and a short piece of wire about eight inches long called a pigtail.
Join the two wires in the pigtail together with a wire nut.
There are many different sizes of wire nuts.
Check with your salesperson for the one that's right for the size and number of wires you will connect.
Whenever you cut circuit wiring, to splice it or to connect it to a switch or a receptacle,
the connection must be contained in an electrical box.
There are many types, plastic, metal, standard, or ganged for two receptacles or switches and so forth.
Whichever one you need depends on its use and how many wires and devices it has in it.
The National Electrical Code and your local codes regulate what is permitted.
Whichever one you get, I'll show you how to connect the cables inside the box.
In most plastic boxes, you first punch out a thin plastic section called a knockout.
By the way, if you remove more knockouts than you use,
code requires you to seal the extra hole or with plastic boxes to use a new box.
Then feed the cable through the hole.
Some plastic boxes have clamps for the cable, but many don't.
Some metal boxes have a built-in clamp that is very easy to use.
Remove the knockout, just loosen the screw,
slip the cable through the knockout hole and under the clamp, and tighten the screw again.
Notice that I'm always pulling into the box about 10 inches of wire to work with.
Another kind of metal box uses a lock nut connector.
First, you tap loose the knockout.
Okay, slip the threaded bushing of the lock nut connector over the cable and screw the clamp tight.
If the box is already attached to a stud, install the clamp in the box and then feed the wires through.
And slip the lock nut over the cable and screw it down.
A hammer and a screwdriver will help you make it tight.
Now let's talk about safety for a moment, beginning with this, a continuity tester.
It's one piece of equipment that you really must have.
This handy gadget tells you whether wires or devices are hot, that is, if they have live current.
To test for current, hold one prong against a known ground like the metal box
and touch the other prong to all wires and connections.
When the tester lights up, the wire is hot.
Try all possible combinations with both prongs.
On the newer plastic boxes, touch the first probe to the bare ground wire instead of the box and check both terminals.
For an outlet to be wired correctly, the tester should light when a connection is made between the hot black wire and the grounded box or a neutral wire.
It should not light when a connection is made between the white wire and the grounded box.
You can also test for proper grounding by holding one prong in a short slot, the hot one, of the receptacle.
Then touch the other prong to the grounding hole, then the faceplate screw.
The continuity tester should light both times.
This polarity tester is another device to check whether your receptacle is wired correctly.
This one's pretty fancy.
Each one of these lights indicates something, whether the polarity is right, whether the receptacle is grounded, and so on.
Incidentally, correct polarity is becoming increasingly more important as modern technology permeates our homes,
especially computers, electronic media equipment, and certain appliances.
You must follow basic safety rules and use common sense to prevent electricity from hurting you.
Always deaden the circuit you're working on, then tape the breaker, lock the box shut,
or post a sign to warn others that you're working on a circuit.
Before touching any wires, make sure they're dead.
And after completing your electrical project or repair, turn the power on and use the continuity tester again to check your work.
Use plastic or rubber-handled tools when working with electricity, and never touch any plumbing or gas pipes when working with electricity.
Always unplug a lamp or appliance before doing any repairs, and always pull on the plug, not the cord.
And when using power tools outdoors or on concrete floors in contact with the earth,
always make sure the electrical outlet is protected with a ground fault circuit interrupter.
This protection device is discussed in the module on replacing receptacles.
No doubt about it, electricity deserves respect.
Whenever you're working on it, take all safety precautions, obtain the proper permits, and strictly follow the code regulations.
But electricity is not complicated.
There's no reason why it should remain a mystery.
In fact, it is one of the most simple, most logical systems in your entire house, and you can get a great deal of enjoyment out of working on it.
These basics allow us to tackle quite a few simple repairs, but be sure to practice some of those techniques before you try a real job.
Many of us have favorite old lamps around the house or are stuck in attics or closets.
Often they just need a new socket or a cord, a job that we could do ourselves if only we knew how.
Let's see if I can remember how this works.
First, I remove the shade.
Then I take out the bulb.
Now, unclip the harp.
Press next to the switch knob and take off the outer shell.
There are two screws to loosen.
Then the socket can be pulled free from the electric wires.
Release the set screw.
And cut free the underwriter's knot.
Save it to refer to later.
Then unscrew the base of the socket.
Hi, Mom. Hi, honey.
Is that the stuff I asked for? Yeah, certainly is.
We have the new socket, some new fixture cord, and a new plug.
I had several kinds of sockets, so I got the one with the screw switch.
And push button, pull chain, screw switch, they're all the same.
So how'd you figure out it needs a new socket? I mean, how'd you find out it doesn't just need a new bulb or something?
Well, I tried it in another lamp and it worked.
The cord's not frayed and the plug's good.
It has been real hard to turn on the switch lately and the lights flickered for some time.
So what else could it be? I don't know. I suppose it has been hot to touch for a while.
It's time that we fixed a potentially dangerous situation.
It's also time that we put a long enough cord on this lamp so we can get rid of the extension cord.
Yes, speaking of which, I forgot to measure the length of cord we'd need.
But the clerk at the store said I should have measured the distance from the outlet to the lamp,
plus the length of the lamp, plus an extra foot to work with.
And it looks as though we have more than enough.
Now the first thing we need to do is get rid of this old cord.
Would you hand me that tape, please? Thanks.
Here we go. If we get these lined up, get a piece of tape around there.
Keep it nice and tight so it fits through.
Okay, now that we're taped, if I can hold this stem while you feed and pull, we'll have the new cord through.
That's good. Okay.
There it is. All right.
Good job, Mom.
Now we'll tie the underwriter's knot.
Make a loop with each side, passing the end of one in front of the cord and the other one behind.
Thread each end through the opposite loop and tighten.
We want to strip off about a half to three-quarters of an inch of insulation here.
Then twist the wire clockwise so it won't fray when we tighten it into the screws.
Now we're ready for the socket. But first, look.
See how the cord is ribbed on one side and smooth on the other?
The wire on the ribbed side is for connecting to the hot terminal of the socket.
The hot screw is always brass.
We wrap the wire in clockwise again around the terminal screw and tighten it.
It's the current in this wire that's broken by the switch.
Now the smooth side has the neutral wire and should be connected to the silver terminal, same way as on the other side.
Now we're ready to put the lamp back together. Here, you can do it.
Okay, doesn't seem that hard.
We just pull this on through, right?
Turn that.
Okay.
We have a seat here.
Now we just get the teeth to match.
Push it on in.
This is called the harp.
We're almost done.
As I slide the harp on.
Ooh, look at that.
There, we're ready to plug it in.
Aren't you forgetting something?
Oh yeah, the plug.
I see you got the self-connecting kind.
Yeah, the clerk said it was real easy to install.
That's right. This type of plug does not require stripping the insulation.
Just cut the end square and push them into the plug.
Then close the connector firmly.
Yep, like that.
We are just about finished, Mom.
Great.
As soon as we get this on here.
Okay.
Now we're ready to try it out. Why don't you plug it in, right over there.
Well, here we go.
A moment of truth.
Bingo.
It works.
If we take a good look around our house.
We may find a few lamps with frayed cords or faulty sockets.
Those lamps need to be repaired.
And now we know how to do it.
What about replacing wall outlets?
In my house, every time we plug an appliance or a light into one particular outlet,
we never know whether it will work or not.
Well, I'd like to replace that outlet, but I'm not sure how to get started.
Receptacles in our homes are usually wired together with several in a single circuit.
The current flows to and from the receptacles at the beginning, middle, and end of the run.
Once you see how, replacing each type is relatively easy.
Once you are sure the circuit is safe, remove the cover plate by unscrewing the threaded fastener.
Then, unscrew the two screws that connect the outlet to the electrical box
and pull the receptacle and its wires from the wall.
There are two basic types of receptacles.
This is an end of the run receptacle.
Only two wires, a black hot wire and a white return wire, are connected to the receptacle.
A third, grounding wire, is connected to a screw on the side of the receptacle.
If this were a middle of the run receptacle, two black wires, two white wires, and the ground wire would be attached.
We will see how to install a middle of the run receptacle later in this segment.
Loosen the binding screws at the terminals and ground to free the old receptacle.
Receptacles of this type are called sidewired receptacles.
Another type is the backwired receptacle.
Release its wires by pushing a narrow screwdriver into the slot near the wire holes.
Unscrew the terminal holding the grounding wire.
Replace with either a similar one or a receptacle with multiple features such as a ground fault circuit interrupter or GFCI.
These special receptacles are safety devices for use where shock hazards may exist, such as outdoor circuits.
They interrupt a circuit in about one fortieth of a second if they sense any current leaks that could shock someone.
Carefully follow the installation instructions that come with the GFCI receptacles.
Whichever receptacle type is chosen, it must be replaced with one accepting the same type of wire.
One type indicates copper or copper clad wire.
The other is for houses with aluminum wiring.
After selecting a receptacle, install it starting with the bare ground wire.
Attach the ground to the green terminal screw.
Then attach the white neutral wire to one of the silver colored screws.
Attach the hot black wire to one of the two brass screws.
If installing a rearwired receptacle, push the white neutral wire into the hole on the side marked white or neutral.
The black hot wire goes into the other side.
Then fasten the ground.
Gently push the wires into the box, making sure that no exposed wires touch the metal.
Position the receptacle with the grounding holes nearest the floor and attach it with the two mounting screws.
Finish by covering the receptacle with a faceplate.
Middle of the run receptacles have two white wires, two black wires, and a ground.
Wiring this receptacle follows the same pattern as an end of the run outlet.
If one does not already exist, make a pigtail of the white wires.
A pigtail of the black wires, and a pigtail of the ground.
Push the wire nuts back into the receptacle box, leaving a single wire of each color.
A new receptacle may be attached to these wires in the same manner as an end of the run receptacle.
After attaching them, attach the two black wires.
After attaching them, remount the outlet and attach the cover plate.
Turn the power on and check the installation with an outlet analyzer.
Its pattern of lights will indicate whether the installation has been made correctly and if it is properly grounded.
Replacing a wall outlet is really pretty easy.
A good rule of thumb is, if an electrical device is faulty, it's always best to replace it.
We just have to remember to replace our old receptacle with one that uses the same kind of wire.
There's nothing that brightens up a room more than an attractive overhead light,
whether it be streamlined and up-to-date, or warm and old-fashioned.
Unfortunately, many of us feel stuck with an unflattering ceiling light.
How can we remove the old fixture and replace it with something that would be just right for our house?
Look at that ugly thing. It's going to feel so good to get this new light up.
We didn't buy this house for that old light fixture, that's for sure.
Replacing it is really going to make this place look better.
I can hardly wait. Don't start anything yet. I'm going to turn the power off.
Once I've gotten this old fixture down, remind me to double-check the power with that voltage tester.
Okay.
Here's a pair of pliers.
Thank you.
And goodbye, old fixture.
There are three basic types of ceiling fixtures and supports.
The attachments of your old lighting fixture can be adapted to whatever system the new light needs.
One type of fixture is supported from a central threaded stud.
A second type is supported by screws to a mounting strap or plate.
And a third type combines both methods of support.
Since the hole in the mounting strap of our ceiling doesn't fit the threaded nipple of our new fixture,
it's good that we got a reducing nut from the lamp store.
It's threaded at both ends and will join the strap and nipple.
This coat hanger ought to hold the fixture while I connect it.
This coat hanger ought to hold the fixture while I connect it.
There may be a ground wire with some models.
Now to connect the other wires.
We connect the white or ribbed wire to the white neutral one from the electrical box
and the black or smooth wire to the black.
If the fixture had multiple wires, we'd still connect all the blacks together and all the whites together.
We may need to adjust the length of the nipple a bit by screwing it in or out until the cover fits snugly.
We may need to adjust the length of the nipple a bit by screwing it in or out until the cover fits snugly.
I'll slip the canopy over the nipple and tighten the holding nut.
Perfect. I'll put the light bulbs in while you turn the circuit back on.
Okay, then we'll try it.
It wasn't as hard as I thought it was going to be.
Okay, here goes.
Replacing a ceiling fixture seems easy.
Remove the old fixture, wire the new one, and mount it to the box.
But it is a job for two people.
What if we'd like to replace a few of the wall switches in our house with something more modern
like a new switch or a dimmer?
With a dimmer, we can transform the mood of any room just by adjusting a dial
from full brightness down to soft candlelight.
And the ceiling light in the hallway when dim would make a terrific nightlight.
Here's how to remove a traditional wall switch and install a dimmer.
Have I said thank you for helping me replace these old switches with dimmers?
Several times. I'm glad to do it.
Now, I'll do the first one and then I'll show you how to do the other one.
I got one that slides up and down and the other has a dial to turn the lights up and down.
Okay, one is a single pole and the other a three-way?
Just like you told me to get.
Okay, do you know the difference?
Well, it says what they are on the package right here.
Well, what I had in mind was these wires here.
See the difference?
This one with the two wires, not including the green grounding wire, is the single pole dimmer.
The one with the three wires is the three-way switch.
Some switches don't have wires, but you can still identify them by the number of terminals
on the other side of the wall switch.
They don't have wires, but you can still identify them by the number of terminal screws.
A single pole dimmer has two screws and a three-way switch has three, not including the ground screw.
I see, and as I understand it, the single pole goes where there's only one switch controlling the light.
Right, one switch to control one or more fixtures.
I'll just pull this faceplate off here so we can get at the switch.
I'll turn off the circuit breaker while you do that.
Well, no light on the old voltage tester. We're safe.
Great.
Now, first we pull out the old switch.
These two wires carry the current.
This one down here is the grounding wire.
We'll take it loose first and then bend it out of the way.
Then we'll free these two binding terminal screws.
So much for the old switch.
We put the two wires together and join them by screwing on the wire nuts, blacks to blacks.
Now, this white wire functions as a black wire, so it has the black tape on it.
Now green to ground.
There.
We're set to put it back in.
And then attach the faceplate.
That looks easy enough. Just work backward.
Well, let's turn on the circuit breaker and try it.
What a wonderful improvement.
Well, now it's my turn to install the three-way dimmer.
Come on, back to the circuit breaker to turn off the power to the hall lights.
A three-way switch system has two switches to control one or more fixtures.
For instance, a hallway often has a switch at each end to turn the hall light on or off.
Shouldn't you have gotten two switches so you could dim the lights from either end of the hall?
Oh, I asked at the store.
While both switches turn the lights on and off, you should install a dimmer on only one.
And did you know they now have special dimmers available for fluorescent lights?
No, I didn't.
Now, on a three-way switch, we have to keep track of the common wire.
Sometimes one of the screws is simply marked common, but this one uses the darker screw method.
Tag that wire with a little tape.
Okay, now we join that common wire to that black lead marked common from the dimmer switch.
And then use the wire nuts to join the other two leads to the remaining two wires.
Right.
And finally, ground the metal bracket with a grounding clip.
Then reassemble the switch.
Great. I'll go turn the power on and you can test it.
With a dimmer, we'll also be saving ourselves money.
Because as we bring down the light, we save electricity.
And the bulbs last longer, too.
We all know how frustrating it is to rearrange the furniture in our homes
and then suddenly realize that there's a shortage of outlets.
The end-to-end of a dimmer is a waste of electricity.
We all know how frustrating it is to rearrange the furniture in our homes
and then suddenly realize that there's a shortage of outlets.
The end table with our favorite lamp on it can't go where we just placed it
because there's nothing to plug the lamp into.
Or the TV and the stereo have to stay exactly where they are,
even though we would rather have the couch there.
If we are tired of having the outlets determine where our furniture should be placed,
it's to our walls.
Can we do this ourselves?
Let's take a look.
Well, okay. I am ready to get started on installing that new outlet.
Oh, great.
What's in the bag?
All kinds of goodies.
Well, have you figured out where you want to put it yet?
Well, with the existing one over here,
I thought it'd be nice to have another one near the corner
for our new entertainment center.
Okay.
We shouldn't be any problem extending a circuit behind this baseboard.
Won't even show it when we're done.
Let's check the amperage on the breaker switch.
Looks like the circuit in that room is 20 amps.
Okay, let's go over a couple of things now.
I know we have two lamps and we want to add a third.
I want to make room for the iron plus the TV,
so a rough total of 1,700 watts.
Equals less than 15 amps.
Well, let's cut the power while we're here and go to work.
So let's find out whether we're at the middle or the end of the run here.
We're in luck. This is the end of the run.
There are only three wires attached to the receptacle.
A black, a white, and a ground.
I'll punch out the knockout in the bottom of the box
to let us extend the circuit down toward the baseboard.
So you said you wanted it about here?
Yeah, it looks about right.
We need to be about the same distance from the floor
as the rest of the outlets in this room. Let's see.
About 15 inches.
And let's see.
Let's do that here.
Okay, so I'll trace that outline here
right around the box.
Okay, here we go.
Okay. Could you hand me the saw now?
There. That's ready to install the box.
But first we need to remove this section of baseboard.
We need to cut through the paint between the wall and baseboard
so the paint won't peel when we remove the baseboard.
And to avoid cracking the baseboard when we pry it loose,
we want to work it slowly,
working with the pry bar
rather than pulling on one end of the baseboard.
Then we cut away a narrow section of the wall board
between the old and new electrical boxes.
That looks about right, huh?
Yeah, it looks about right.
Okay.
Okay.
Okay.
Okay.
That looks about right, huh?
Now we're ready to pull a hole in each of these studs.
Great.
I've put a three-quarter inch bit in the drill,
but don't you think we ought to use a right angle drill?
You know, I think we can drill it at an angle with a regular drill.
I'll just try to put them about one and a quarter inches
from the face of the stud.
All right.
We have one more and we're done.
Great.
Wall board is sure easier to work with
than wood or plaster walls.
Yeah, this has been a laugh in plaster wall.
We'd remove the plaster from the full width of one laugh.
Then we'd make a cardboard template of the box
so that we could center it on the exposed laugh to trace it.
We'd put masking tape around the outline.
Score the outline with a knife.
With the outline as a guide,
use a chisel to chip away the plaster.
Note where the ears of the box will be screwed into the laugh.
Then cut out the remaining laugh using a saber saw or keyhole saw.
Our next step is to chisel a groove.
It should be about an inch wide.
And then we'd widen it at each stud
to get a drill behind the laugh to drill through the studs.
If we were putting the new box into a wood wall,
we'd drill holes in the corners of the outline
and a little beyond the outline at the top and bottom centers.
Then we'd cut along the outline with a saber saw or keyhole saw.
I guess the guy at the store recommended this size 12 cable.
Yes, 12 is required for a 20 amp circuit.
This NM or Romex type cable is just fine
as long as it's not used where it would be exposed to moisture.
Right, like in a basement or a damp laundry room.
Then we'd have to use NMC cable, and that's moisture proof.
And of course, the size and type of wire
depends on the size of circuit required by code.
But how did you know how much to get?
I just measured the distance from where we'd start
to where we'd end and added enough to leave 12 inch loops
to work with at each box.
I'm glad you just remembered that it's always better to have too much.
If it's too short, you can't splice another piece on.
I'll strip this cable so we can wire this receptacle
to change it to a middle of the run receptacle.
To install this new box, we'll need to remove the knockouts,
insert the wire through the bottom of the box, and then clamp it.
These metal flanges will hold the box in place
in the wall board wall when you finish tightening the screws.
Good.
To install the new box in a plaster and lath wall,
we'd need to chip away a little more plaster
at the top and bottom of the hole,
so that the ears on the box would fit right against the lath.
Then we'd adjust the ears so that the face of the box
would be flush with the wall's surface.
Finally, we'd screw the box to the lath.
What's necessary in a wood wall depends on how thick the wood is.
If the wood is more than three-eighths of an inch thick,
we could attach the box right to the wood with small wood screws.
If the wood is three-eighths of an inch or thinner,
we'd have to use a box with side clamps.
Now that we have the power back on,
we can check the circuit with a polarity tester.
Then we'll touch up the paint.
Well, that's the electrical stuff.
All we have to do now is the carpentry work.
Almost all of us can install new wall outlets,
even though it does require some skill.
I'd brush up on my carpentry skill before I started.
I think I'll begin with one of the easier jobs,
like repairing my lamp or putting in a dimmer switch in the hallway.
That'll give me the confidence to move on to larger repairs.
Thank you for joining me in this Ortho video series tape.
Be sure to watch each segment several times before you start,
and always make sure the electrical circuits are disconnected
by checking them with a voltage tester before you start working.
And have fun with your home electrical projects.
Thank you for watching.
Thank you for watching.
Thank you for watching.
Thank you for watching.
Thank you for watching.
Thank you for watching.