Hi, I'm Chris Troy.
And I'm Chris Ward.
Chris and I are professional cosmetic editors, and we're going to take you through the steps
of applying a makeup to suit your own specific needs and lifestyle.
The techniques we will be showing you can be easily updated as styles change.
Particular brands of makeup are not mentioned during this tape, however, we do discuss color,
types, and textures available.
The techniques that you will learn can be used with any makeup brand you choose to buy.
There are points to consider to achieve a great makeup.
That is cosmetic correction to perfection.
The first point, the condition of your skin.
The condition of your skin will determine the finish of your makeup.
Nothing can substitute for a sensible skincare routine.
All skin types improve with regular cleansing, masking, and moisturizing.
This doesn't necessarily need to be expensive.
Some skin types suit sorbillant cream, which is available from supermarkets at a budget
price.
It can be applied as a cleanser, then removed with a warm moist face washer, then reapplied
as a moisturizer.
Point two, the understanding of colors.
To know what would best complement your skin tone and the outfit.
For example, an olive green outfit would not be best complemented with a pink lipstick
and a blue eyeshadow.
Point three, the style of makeup needs to be considered for the occasion.
Corporate is always subtle and enhancing.
Casual, soft and pretty.
While party can be more optional, anywhere from soft and colorful to bright and dramatic.
Now point four, always remember the importance of clean brushes, sponges, and applicators.
This will ensure a crisp and clear finish to your makeup.
You could imagine how hard it would be to apply a pink eyeshadow if you've just applied
a dark brown with the same applicator.
Finally, stand back, take a look at yourself from head to toe.
Ask yourself, is your makeup well blended?
Are you color correct?
Consider the overall effect.
Attitude, head held high, shoulders back and smile.
This video is broken into three main topics.
We start with topic one, top color.
Experimenting with lipsticks, eyeshadows, and blush.
This is where the fun begins.
It's everyone's favorite, including ours.
In top color, we cover makeup suitable for corporate or casual wear.
Topic two, base makeup.
This being the most important part to any makeup.
Base makeup protects your skin from the environment and helps you retain the moisture in your
skin.
Learn the skills for a flawless complexion.
Topic three, after dark, party and evening wear.
Elaborating on the top color to intensify and accentuate.
After dark is fun, exciting, and beautiful.
To demonstrate this, Chris and I shall be applying the makeup to our model Justine.
Shelly will be doing her own.
Shelly will appear in the top left hand corner of the screen.
Hi Shelly.
Before we commence with topic one, we shall give a brief overview on warm and cool colors.
Colors can be very complicated.
This will help you to understand the difference between cools, warm, and neutrals.
And the necessity of grouping them together.
Giving you the ability to coordinate your makeup, apparel, and accessories for the ultimate
finish.
Colors such as golden green, rust, orange, and yellow brown, etc. are classed as warm.
All these colors have a yellow undertone.
Think of the sun, desert, and hot.
Colors like blue, purple, pink, and maroon are referred to as cools.
They have a blue undertone.
People who suit the cool tones have a pink or blue, and sometimes gray undertone to their
skin.
When looking for cool shades and foundations, look for pink or neutral undertone in the
foundation.
Take time out, look around, and compare shades of red.
You will begin to notice that some have a definite yellow base.
Even to the point of looking very orangey.
The reds will look quite cold with the more blue undertone they have.
If you find this difficult, place the colors together.
It is easier to compare.
Next time you're shopping, stop and compare the color tones.
When looking at right by itself, it looks white.
It's not until you start to compare them together that it becomes apparent that some have a
yellow or creamy tinge, and others look dirty or gray, while others are brilliant white
with a blue undertone.
When you begin to understand the colors, you will then know why some white blouses look
better on the hanger rather than on your skin.
True red, black, navy, gray, and true reds are neutral colors.
Neutrals don't have a blue or yellow undertone.
They are true colors and may be used with both warms and cools.
Some browns that don't have a strong undertone from either side are classed as neutrals in
makeup and accessories.
They will complement warms and cools, giving a natural, fresh look.
The important point of colors are that you coordinate your total look.
Eyes, lips, blush, clothing, and accessories, all matching undertones to ensure the ideal
finish.
Hi, this is Justine, and we will be applying natural colored makeup on her today, suitable
for a corporate or casual look.
Justine is already wearing her base makeup, which we will explain in full detail in topic
two of this tape.
Looking at Justine's base, you will notice that her foundation has been taken completely
down her neckline and blended in well, so there are no stop start lines.
The cream blush has been applied for contouring the face and giving longer stay power for
a healthy glow.
The lip pencil has established a crisp outer line that has been colored in and softly blended
for a professional finish and to last longer.
Then the entire makeup has been set with pressed powder to give a matte finish.
Justine's eyebrows have been cleaned to remove any excess makeup to give a natural, healthy
appearance.
The more natural the makeup looks, the better the makeup finish.
The art to makeup is blending and shading.
This will now apply the lip color.
By applying the lipstick with a brush, the finish is more defined and tends to last longer.
Fill the brush sweeping the flat of the bristles over the lipstick.
This will make the brush easier to work with.
Once the brush is loaded, start from the center of the lip.
With the flat of the brush, fill the entire inner lip before defining the outer line with
the tip of the brush.
The color choice for the lipstick would need to coordinate with the clothing that you've
decided to wear.
That will then determine the eyeshadow and blush color tones.
Before applying the eyeshadow, you must check and remove creases of foundation from the
eyelid.
Using a sponge tip applicator loaded with translucent powder, apply to the entire eyelid
to prevent creasing of the eyeshadow.
This will help the eyeshadow to stay where it is placed.
We shall be working in three grades of color, light, medium, and dark.
These may be from either warm or cool shades and may be combined with neutral shades to
enhance the effect.
Choosing a light color, you may use the translucent powder for this.
Chris is using a flat cream shade over the translucent base.
Apply to the entire lid, ensuring that it is all blended well.
Medium color.
Chris has chosen a medium rust for Justine today.
Using the tip of the applicator to give control of placement, load the applicator with the
medium color.
Then draw a horizontal V from the outer corner of the eye along the top half of the lid near
the lashes.
Then from the outer eye, moving inwards along the orbital bone halfway tapering off.
Using a blending brush, blend inwards to soften the edges, but be careful not to lose the
colors.
When applying eyeshadow, be sure not to bring the shadow too far down the outer eye, as
this will turn your eyes down and give the appearance of looking sad.
The indicator shows the area to stay within, this being in line from your nose, outer eye,
and the end of your eyebrow.
Dark color.
Chris is using a dark brown, loading just the tip of the applicator for more control
and ease of use.
Copy the horizontal V, only smaller.
Still starting from the outer corner of the eye, moving along the top close to the lashes
and then a small smudge on the outer corner over the orbital bone.
Blending off so there are no apparent lines.
Working your chin in will lift your bottom lashes from the face.
Use the tip of the applicator and apply the dark color underneath.
Working from the outer eye, apply a thin line under the bottom lashes, halfway along, then
taper off.
You may need a cotton tip for thinning the line and tapering the edge so it is well blended.
Using a blending brush, ensure the eyeshadow is just that, a shadow.
The placement of the eyeshadow would vary depending on the shape of your eye.
For a flattering effect, ensure the medium color is a soft blend and visible when your
eyes are open.
For some eye shapes, it may be necessary to apply the medium color slightly above the
orbital bone and continue the line to the inner corner of the eye.
The lighter and darker colors can stay the same.
There are hundreds of ways of applying eyeshadow.
This is just one version.
It is very flattering and gives the appearance of opening the eyes and can look great in
numerous colors.
Now we have completed a basic eyeshadow and we shall apply the powder blush.
Choosing a blush in the same color tone, load the blush brush and place over the existing
contour on the cheeks.
That is where the cream blush was placed when the base makeup was applied.
It may help to dab the loaded brush on the back of your hand to remove excess color before
applying it to your cheeks.
Blusher should always be barely noticeable.
It is there only for a healthy, natural glow and because we have used the cream blush underneath,
the color will last and enhance for hours.
If you find that your blush or eyeshadow is too dark, correct it by powdering over with
a translucent powder.
A corporate makeup never has bright or sparkly colors.
It is a subtle blend of colors.
The art of makeup is shadows to enhance your features.
Eyebrows are the frame of your face.
Brows should commence in line with the nose at its fullest point, then continue to the
outer edge of the eye at an angle, giving an indication of area for tweezing or hair
removal if desired.
You may need to tweeze in between the brows, however, be careful not to remove too many.
Shape the brow from underneath.
A percentage of girls have found that tweezing or waxing only once, the brows have never
grown back.
That would be too late if you have made a mistake.
For eyebrow correction or fair brows, it may be necessary to use a brow pencil.
For a natural look, use a darker shade than your brow hair and stroke backwards through
the brow hair, ensuring not to draw on the skin.
If hair follicles are missing, draw small feathery lines or dots.
Spray hairspray into a clean toothbrush.
Brush upwards to lift and tidy the brows to give the appearance of larger eyes.
Clean recycled toothbrushes make for a perfect brow brush.
Last but not least, mascara.
Colored mascara is suitable for fantasy and party wear only.
Black and brown mascara are far more appropriate and flattering for corporate wear.
Lifting your chin moves your top lashes out for ease of application.
Using the length of the wand, stroke your top lashes up and outward, then replace the
wand to prevent the mascara from drying out.
Take an empty and clean mascara brush.
Brush through the lashes to remove lumps and excess.
Now, tucking the chin in, still looking into the mirror, using the tip of the wand with
small strokes, apply mascara to the bottom lashes.
Makeup is made of a multitude of ingredients and chemicals.
It is a must to have clean brushes, sponges and applicators.
Unwashed, they collect dust and bacteria that may trigger allergic reactions, and it is
impossible to achieve accurate color for a natural finish.
Ideally you would clean brushes and sponges after each use, like you do when you rinse
a toothbrush.
This, however, may not be practical, so we would suggest a thorough cleaning at least
once a month.
Just wash with a mild detergent and water.
Rinse really well.
Squeeze out excess water and shape to dry.
Be gentle when washing and shaping your brushes.
Justine has a clean and moisturized face.
Always allow time for the moisturizer to absorb before you begin your base makeup.
A base makeup lets you achieve a flawless and healthy complexion.
It is the starting point for makeup for any occasion, whether it be corporate, casual
or after dark.
Top color is what changes the style.
To achieve a natural makeup, good lighting is essential.
A common place for applying makeup would be the bathroom.
Many bathrooms, however, have light coming in on one side, usually from a window.
This makes it impossible to get an even makeup.
The best light is natural, even light.
It may be necessary to face the window using a hand-held mirror, or it may be possible
to have a mirror on the window sill itself.
Artificial light makes it difficult to judge the correct color shades and intensity.
The first thing we are going to do is neutralize the red on Justine's face.
If your skin is evenly toned, this may not be necessary.
You will notice I am applying a green neutralizer with a brush for small placement and my ring
finger for large areas and blending.
Always ensure this is applied very lightly and is well blended.
As it will look like bruising under the makeup, or worse, it may glow under the blue lights
at the nightclub.
There are different colors and textures available to disguise imperfections.
The redness across the cheeks from broken capillaries, that's the tiny red veins, pimples
and scars can be neutralized by green or yellow.
Yellow works well over blue veins and lilac is suggested for cello skin.
Concealers on the other hand are skin toned and may be used instead of or in conjunction
with neutralizers, depending on the amount of coverage needed.
Dab a small amount using your ring finger over the area that is necessary and under
the inner corner of the eye.
It may be necessary to use a brush or cotton tip to apply the concealer.
Make sure that it is well blended.
The degree of coverage would depend on the consistency of the formulation.
For particularly dark circles under the eyes, use a darker concealer as a lighter shade
will make them appear gray.
Lip conditioner.
This moisturizes, prepares and softens the lips for lip pencil.
It may also prevent the lip line bleeding into the small fine lines around the edge
of the lips.
Now we are ready for the foundation.
For a professional finish, it is best to apply with a sponge.
The type of sponge would depend on the texture of the makeup and personal preference.
Dampened sea sponges are good for cream or pancake makeup.
Wet the sea sponge and gently squeeze in a face washer or tissue.
If the sea sponge is too wet, the foundation will go streaky.
Dense sponges are popular for all foundations, particularly liquid.
These may be used wet or dry depending on the foundation.
To minimize the wastage of foundation and for better coverage, curl the sponge around
your index finger as demonstrated.
This also makes it easier to stipple.
Cotton pads or squares may be used if you need disposable.
To apply the foundation, start from the center of the face, stipple over concealers and neutralizers
to ensure you don't wipe them off.
Blending outwards towards your hairline and down the neck.
Because some foundations dry quickly, you may need to apply and blend to sections at
a time.
If the foundation is too heavy around the hairline, eyes and brows, turn the sponge
over and wipe gently to erase.
Contrary to belief, foundation doesn't clog the pores when you have a good skin care program.
In fact, quite the reverse.
It really protects the skin by acting as a barrier to dirt, dust and sun and prevents
dryness.
Foundation is probably the most important makeup purchase.
There are different types and textures on the market, liquids and creams being the most
popular.
When purchasing foundation with SPF, that is a sunscreen, you would need to consider
where you will be wearing it the most.
Will it be for evening, the workplace, indoors or outdoors?
Perhaps it would be more controllable to apply an oil free sunblock under the foundation
when needed instead of wearing sunscreen all the time.
Sunscreen is appearing in so many products, lip balms, moisturizers and foundations.
That's a lot of chemicals that you're applying if you're working indoors all day.
Thanks.
When you go to buy a foundation, don't be afraid to shop around.
Finding the right color and coverage may be trial and error.
Tinted moisturizers are good for a barely there look.
These are fine if you have very clear skin.
Cream foundations give a more concealing coverage and have an oil base which tends to last longer
and is water resistant.
This is particularly good for those who perspire or have dry skin.
Remember, water based foundations dissolve easily with perspiration.
Liquid foundations come in both water and oil bases.
Water based often dries very quickly.
Be sure to blend sections at a time.
If the coverage is not enough, it is possible to give a second coat after the first has
dried.
Coverage varies from product to product.
Foundation comes in three color groups, those being warms, which are a yellowy color, cools
have a pinky tone and neutral are neither yellow or pink in appearance.
Initially, you can get the sales assistant to apply the colors that are close to your
skin tone on your wrist.
When you have found one or two that you like, test it on your jaw line.
This allows you to go out of the store to check the true color in daylight.
This will also give an indication of whether or not you may be allergic to this product.
All skin types can have an allergic reaction.
Also it will indicate whether the color will alter due to acidity in the skin.
You may also want to purchase a darker foundation color for wearing after dark and in summer
for a healthy glow.
Cream blush or cheek stain.
Applying cream blush contours your face and gives stay power for a lasting effect.
To define the cheek area for where the blush should go, place two fingertips close to your
nose and two finger widths under your eye.
Never go lower than your mouth or earlobe.
As demonstrated, you can see there is a lot of area for blush contouring.
Feel for your cheekbone and place the stain on or under this bone.
Remember blush should be a slight shadowing and well blended.
Many people apply blush too dark.
The color we are using for a natural effect is a soft pinky brown, about three shades
darker than the foundation.
Different positioning will achieve different effects.
The further forward you bring the blush, the broader your face will appear.
Today we are doing a basic and flattering contour.
Lip pencil.
Many people have difficulty establishing straight lip line.
We will demonstrate what we call dot to dot.
Rest your little finger on your chin to stabilize your hand.
Then draw five dots on the inside edge of the top lip.
Starting with one in the center, one on each peak and one either side about half way across.
Now on the bottom.
One in the center and one either side about half way across again.
Use small feathery strokes, join the dots together.
Keep the line thin as you get closer to the outer lip.
Once the outline is finished, color the entire lip area and blend well with a cotton tip.
We are using a lip pencil in a neutral brown shade.
You have outlined and colored in the entire lip as this will help your color to last.
If you choose to only outline your lips, remember the lipstick wears off quickly.
This will leave that tell tale outline and this is not always flattering.
Eye emphasize or liner.
For Justine we are going to use a dark matte gray eyeshadow under the bottom eyelashes
with a fine wet eye lining brush.
Starting at the outer corner under the bottom lashes, use small feathery strokes to make
a thin line about two thirds of the way across.
Then taper off.
You may need to use a cotton tip to straighten and taper the line.
When choosing the desired effect, remember there are a variety of eyeliners and definers
available.
Felt tip liners are popular and easy to use.
Gray is the most flattering color to use for all color tones and like the matte eyeshadow
we used on Justine, it will give a soft and lasting effect.
Liquid eyeliners are harsh in appearance and very hard to use.
Coal pencils contain vegetable oil to make them soft.
However, the heat from the body melts them and makes them run and smudge.
A soft gray coal pencil is great to give a lasting base under the eyeshadow as Shelly
will demonstrate.
Drawing a horizontal V from the outer corner of the eye along the top half of the lid near
the lashes.
Then from the outer eye moving inwards along the orbital bone halfway and tapering off.
Use a cotton tip to blend well.
This is the same positioning as the medium V in top color.
Setting.
Before we do this, we need to stop and check carefully that all the makeup is where and
how we want it to be.
Lips even and no makeup increases on the top lid.
Lip line even, foundation well blended with no stop start lines.
Now we have completed the base makeup and for a long lasting effect we need to set it.
It is best to use a powder that is similar or lighter in color than the foundation.
Stipple the powder over the face, paying particular attention to the T zone.
You could use either a loose powder with a brush or pressed powder with a velour sponge.
Because we need the powder to be precise in its placement and to ensure a matte finish,
we will use a translucent pressed powder.
Pressed powder and lipstick are really all you need as touch ups during the day and evening.
When it is inconvenient to carry touch up makeup, a small lip pencil and tissue can
be extremely handy.
Apply a small amount of lip pencil to your ring finger and blend it well over your cheeks.
Then lightly outline and shade in your lips.
If your makeup has gone shiny, blot with a tissue for a quick fix.
This is ideal for work meetings.
Eyebrows This is a good time to remove any excess makeup
or powder from the eyebrows.
Use a moistened washer or a dampened cotton facial pad to clean the brow.
Run the washer backwards through the hair, being careful to only remove the makeup from
the eyebrows.
Take a tooth brush and comb the brows up and inwards for a totally finished look.
We've now completed Justine's base makeup.
It is often said I haven't the time to wear makeup, but if you're organised, it shouldn't
take you any longer than cleaning your teeth or brushing your hair.
Having all your brushes, sponges, applicators and makeup clean and organised will allow
you to apply a makeup in just a few minutes.
Cutlery trays work well for laying out your brushes and makeup.
Recycled lids are also excellent for holding lipsticks.
Organise the makeup so you don't have to touch any more than one or two items for selection.
Anything needs to be at your fingertips.
You've seen how to apply your base makeup and top colour.
Now we shall show you how to emphasise and accentuate for after dark wear.
If the makeup is for evening wear or photography, it is advisable to apply a shade darker foundation
because artificial and night lights tend to drain your colour and leave you looking washed
out.
But remember to blend down your neckline.
It is always advisable to have two shades of foundation in your makeup drawer, a lighter
shade and a darker shade.
Perhaps the lighter one with an SPF in and the darker one without.
Personally I prefer to have the control of when I wear SPF, so I apply a sunblock under
my foundation when I need it.
Foundations that are the same brand but different colours may be mixed together, that is on
your hand, not in the bottle.
Because Justine is already wearing her daytime makeup, Chris is stippling a darker shade
of foundation over her T-zone for after dark wear.
Because this is a darker shade, we need to pay particular attention to the neckline and
blending.
If you wish to make your lips smaller or larger, you will find it easier to do if you cover
your lip line with foundation first.
Don't forget to powder again.
Use a lip pencil and define around the outer edge of your lips just a little fuller than
daytime wear.
Lip pencil is the easiest way of correcting or enhancing your lips, especially with the
foundation disguising your natural lip line.
Drawing the line just outside the natural lip line will make your lips appear fuller.
To make them appear smaller, the line would go just inside your natural lip line.
After the lip line has been established and shaded in, apply a shade darker or brighter
lipstick to coordinate with your outfit.
Then using a sponge tip eyeshadow applicator, dab an iridescent gold eyeshadow to the centre
of your bottom lip.
With the lip brush, blend into the lipstick.
This highlights the bottom lip line as the iridescents are activated with the night lights
for added sparkle.
It is also a great tip to even out your lip line if the bottom lip is a little small.
Moving on to the eyes.
A good tip is to keep a clean lip brush for eyeshadow use only, as they are more precise
with placement and easy to use.
As you can see, Justine is already wearing a cream eyeshadow for the light colour, a
medium rust, halfway along the orbital bone and a dark brown in the smaller V. Now using
a lip brush, we are coming from the inner corner of the eye along and slightly above
the orbital bone, blending off towards the brow.
We are using a medium sand colour to do this.
Next, wet the lip brush, dip it into the same dark brown as you used before in the top colour.
Moving over the original placement of the smaller V to intensify the colour.
Add a touch of the brown on the tip of a dry applicator and smudge it off.
Wetting the eyeshadow will make it a darker colour and keep it in place for hours of wear.
Taking a clean sponge applicator, dampen slightly and dip into an iridescent cream or gold eyeshadow
and apply to the pot of the eye.
Now at time to dry, then use a blending brush to blend the edges.
Here you can see how important it is to keep the brushes and applicators clean.
Add a touch of blush and...
Here's how, look now, you natural.
Chris and I have enjoyed making this video for you.
Thanks for joining us and we look forward to seeing you again.
And remember, with practice, you too can be applying your makeup to give you that professional
look.
Here's how, look now, you natural.
And here's how, look now, you natural.