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Welcome to the Hometime Project Center.
I'm Dean Johnson.
And I'm Peggy Knapp.
In the video you're about to see, Dean and I will be giving you step-by-step instructions for installing new doors and windows.
We'll be showing you how to frame a wall for a window and a door.
During the program we'll be installing an interior door, an exterior door, a casement window, a double hung window, and a box bay window.
We'll also be showing you how to open up an existing stud wall and install a new window.
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This video is just one in a library of instructional programs designed to assist the viewer in working on a wide range of home improvement projects.
And before we begin our program, I want to explain how you can best make use of this educational system.
First off, you should watch the tape all the way through to get an idea of the methods, the steps, and the terminology we use.
To help familiarize yourself with the terms, we've included a glossary in the project guide.
Then you should review the tape again.
Only this time, check with your project guide to determine the tools and materials appropriate to your project.
Then take the project guide to your local building supply dealer or home center.
The people there will be able to assist you, answer questions, and direct you to what you need.
Door construction can be divided into two basic types.
The panel door and the flush or flat face door.
The typical panel door is composed of several primary components.
The verticals are called stiles, the horizontal are called rails, and together they frame panels or panes of glass.
The flush door, on the other hand, is faced on both sides with a thin veneer, which covers either a solid or hollow core.
The solid core is made up of particle board or gypsum filler, and along with the panel door,
it's used primarily as an exterior door because of its durability, security, and resistance to weather.
For interior purposes, the hollow core door is the most widely used today.
Between the front and back skin, it's filled with a lightweight wood or cardboard framework.
Both panel and flush doors are sold in pre-hung units.
This means they already come attached to a jam system ready for installation.
Now another kind of door is a metal insulated door.
They usually come with a steel exterior and a rigid foam core.
Because of their metal construction, they're fire rated.
Now fire rating means that the door can withstand a fire endurance test.
In certain areas of the country, it's code to have a fire rated door,
so you should probably give your local building department a call to find out.
There are many kinds of windows available in just about any size, shape, and design that you want.
The ones that we'll be installing are a double-hung, a casement, and a box bay window.
The double-hung consists of an upper exterior sash which opens down and the lower interior sash that opens up.
Now this next one, the casement window.
The sash is hinged on one side and it opens outward, operated by a crank.
Then we have the fixed pane or plate glass window and the bay window and the skylight, to name only a few.
Window frames also vary.
Two of the most popular are wood and vinyl clad frames.
Now in terms of the glass, there are several strengths to choose from.
Single strength, double strength, tempered glass, and safety glass.
Not to mention insulating glass, which is composed of two or more panes of glass that are spaced apart,
making the window more effective than the single-thickness glass for preventing heat loss.
And now there are coated low-e insulating glasses which go a step further to protect against radiant heat loss or gain.
Whether your windows are for new construction or for replacing the old,
your choice will greatly depend on the existing architecture and your personal taste.
You'll be able to apply the tools and techniques that we use to your specific window project.
Some of the windows and doors Peggy and I will be installing on this program are pre-manufactured units
and don't require a lot of expensive or specialized tools or sophisticated handiwork.
Some of the common tools we'll be using are a framing square, carpenter's level, nail nippers,
a chisel set, a pry bar, an electric or cordless drill, claw hammer, a circular saw, a caulking gun,
a reciprocating saw, a steel tape measure, a chalk line, a combination square, an awl, a nail set, a utility knife.
And our Astrovan. Now depending on the extent of the project, a permit may be required,
so be sure to call your local building department and ask.
Before we start, I just want to remind you that no matter how simple or extensive the project is, be safety conscious.
If you're in a hurry or if you think you can get by without taking the proper safety precautions,
not only will your job suffer, but you may too.
We recommend that you work at a comfortable pace, wear proper clothing and protection,
and follow the manufacturer's guidelines in using their tools, materials, and equipment.
Here in our studio, we've framed out a typical wall to show you what's involved in installing a hollow core interior door.
Now in any new construction, you want to determine the dimensions of your doors and windows before you build the wall.
Here's how we built this one.
The standard sizes for interior hollow core doors come in specific sizes from 2 to 3 feet wide by 80 inches high.
So in framing out our wall, we marked where the center of the door would be on the top and sole plates.
Then we measured out from there for our rough opening.
This is the opening that includes the door height and width, the thickness of the side jams, and the head jam.
We also want to include an extra 1 quarter inch on each side for shimming.
Then we cut and nailed together the framing members, the king studs, the jack studs, the header, and the cripple studs above the header.
And up we went.
Using pre-hung units saves time and they're relatively easy to install.
The doors come complete with hinges, the jam, and typically casing is supplied.
Plus, holes are pre-drilled for your doorknob and lock set.
One concern before you purchase your doors is knowing the width of your jam.
For interior doors, this is the width of the door opening from finished wall to finished wall.
For exterior doors, it's the dimension from the inside finished wall to the outside sheathing.
Jams come in standard dimensions to fit 2 by 4 and 2 by 6 construction.
You can also order door jams to be cut to fit an odd dimensional doorway.
Another concern in your planning and preparation is establishing which direction the door will swing.
Will it be a right hand door or a left hand door?
Well, you'll find differing opinions on which is which.
So, I'm going to clear this up once and for all.
First off, stand in the doorway and face the direction in which the door swings away from you.
For most residential entrance doors, you'll be looking at the inside of the house.
Now, since the hinges are on the right side, it's a right handed door.
Now, to hang the door.
First, we want to pre-drill the casing to accept the eight penny nails.
And for a drill bit, we'll use one of the nails.
Then we center the jam in the rough opening, flush with the sides of the finished walls.
Then we attach our pre-hung casing to our studs, starting at the top of the hinge side.
Every so often, you want to check the reveal of the door.
The reveal is the gap between the door and the jam, and for the door to be square,
it means that the reveal is a consistent width all the way around the jam.
Plumb with a level and secure the casing.
Then start at the top of the lock side, plumb, then nail.
An interior door will usually take three sets of shims on the side jams and one on the head jam.
These shims are pre-cut, tapered pieces of wood that you buy in bundles.
Pre-hung doors will come with casing attached to one side.
So in order to shim, you want to start by sticking a shim in butt first,
then insert the second shim, tapered end first, so that it fits snug.
When shimming the hinge side jam, the best places to insert them is just above
or just below the hinge and strike plate.
As we shim, we want to check for plumb using a carpenter's level.
Then we recheck the reveal of the door to make sure it swings freely, and then we can nail.
First, pre-drilling the hinge side, then driving the finishing nails
through the shims into the jack studs.
Then we recheck the reveal of the door to make sure it swings freely, and then we can nail.
The next step is to cut off the excess shims.
I'm using a sharp bladed utility knife, scoring them deep, and then snapping them off.
The door casing will cover this gap.
Now we want to countersink the nail heads.
It should just take a couple of taps with a hammer to countersink the nail
below the surface of the wood.
Then we can come back later on and fill the depression with wood putty.
Now suppose the situation calls for cutting off the base of the door
to allow space for carpeting.
That's called undercutting.
When undercutting a hollow core door, you're only given so much frame to trim off.
If you're in doubt, do a sounding with your hammer.
A good trick here is, once you've marked off what you need to cut,
then score the line with a sharp utility knife.
Then clamp a board as a guide for the saw to ensure a straight cut.
Then apply a strip of masking tape along the inside edge of the line.
This can prevent the wood from tearing along the edge
by the upward cutting action of the circular saw blade.
A sharp, fine-toothed blade is also recommended.
Okay, we've shown you the procedure for installing a pre-hung door.
Now we want to show you what's involved in cutting your own jams
and fitting your own hinges as we install an exterior door.
Hanging your own door requires a few more tools and a little more work,
but it's real manageable if you're only patient and follow the right steps.
Now we've framed out the rough opening according to the manufacturer's specifications,
taking extra care to frame the stud's plumb
to avoid the amount of shimming and adjusting down the road.
Now the next step is to assemble the jams.
I've cut the vertical jams to fit the height of the rough opening.
Exterior jams are thicker than interior jams,
and they can be purchased already routed at the top to receive the head jam
and notched at the bottom for the door sill.
To join the jams, I'm using wood glue and three 8-penny nails.
When using wood glue, you want to allow it time to set up as recommended.
After nailing the jams together, I want to square the corner using a framing square
and then brace them in position, tacking diagonal boards to the corner.
This will assure a plumb jam.
Now we attach the door sill to the bottom of the jam.
The sill is an angled piece of hardwood for water runoff
that is situated at the foot of the door, flush with the finished floor
and protruding out beyond the siding an inch or so.
The door sill rests on the subfloor, but before we set it in the opening,
we first want to make sure that the floor is level
and then caulk the area to give it a fast, weathertight seal.
With the door sill established, the rest of the process is the same as the interior door,
bringing the jam flush with the interior finished wall,
plumbing the hinge side jam, shimming the head and side jams.
Here we can shim from both sides of the jam because there's no casement,
always checking for plumb and nailing with casing nails.
Casing nails are like finishing nails, only with a larger head.
The next step is to install the hinges.
The weight of this door is such that we'll need three 4-inch butt hinges,
and that's typical of exterior doors.
First we'll mortise the jam and then we'll align the door to the jam.
Now the typical position for hinges is 11 inches up from the bottom of the door,
7 inches down from the top, and the third hinge is located midway between them.
The hinge mortise is an indentation that's cut into the wood
so that the hinge sits flush with the jam.
Now this can be done using a router and a template or a wood chisel.
First I set the hinge on the mark 7 inches from the top of the door
and make an outline of the hinge with a pencil,
extending the hinge about 1 quarter inch beyond the jam
to prevent the knuckles from binding on the casing.
Now with a utility knife, I score the outline.
And with a sharp chisel the same width as the mortise,
I start making a series of shallow cuts,
holding the chisel at a 45-degree angle
and giving it a couple taps on the handle with a hammer,
spacing the cuts about 1 quarter inch apart.
Now I want to turn the chisel bevel face down and remove the wood chips.
Now this takes some practice, but it can be quickly learned.
To locate the top hinge, I'll measure down 7 inches from the top of the door,
subtracting an eighth of an inch to allow for the clearance
between the top of the door and the jam.
And then I'll mark the hinge.
Now I'll turn the chisel bevel face down and remove the wood chips.
Swing's fine.
If there were any binding in the door, we'd check the mortises to make sure they weren't
cut too deeply.
And to find out, you can loosen some of the hinge screws and see if that's causing it.
And if it is, the mortise can be shimmed out with cardboard.
Now for the threshold.
You can get thresholds in hardwood or metal.
This particular one is oak with a vinyl insert to seal out drafts.
It's been cut to size and we'll place it on top of our oak sill.
Now another option to replace these two is a combination aluminum sill with a built-in
oak threshold.
By adjusting these screws, you can raise or lower the oak threshold to the bottom of the
door.
To notch out a threshold, I want to begin with the vinyl insert removed and the threshold
cut to the width of the jams.
Then I want to position the threshold up against the jam stops in the opening and mark for
the location of the stop.
This will be the width of the notch.
When using the gasket grooves as a guide, we position the threshold so the gasket will
be centered under the closed door and marked for the length of the notch.
For attaching the threshold, I'll be using screws placed down the middle and later covered
with a vinyl insert.
For metal thresholds, there are usually pre-bored holes for applying wood screws.
Next I want to drill for the four two-inch screws, one and a half inches from each end
and then the other two equally spaced between them.
With the addition of the threshold, you'll want to trim or plane the base of the door
by making a bevel cut.
Before we remove the door to cut it, we want to first mark the top of the door on the jam.
Then measure down from the mark to where the vinyl gasket is slightly compressed.
This will be the highest point of the bevel cut.
Now we transfer this measurement to both sides of the front of the door.
As I said, this will be the highest point of the bevel cut.
To determine our cut line, we want to establish the lowest point of the bevel cut.
To do this, we use the combination square and transfer our height mark to the inside edge.
Then we measure down one-eighth of an inch and connect the marks with a line, repeating
the process for the other side.
This will be the angle of the cut.
After making the cut, we'll want the bed of the saw to rest on the door, so we have to
turn the door over to make the cut on the back side.
Use the angled mark to set up the angle of the saw, and as we did before, score along
the line with the utility knife, apply the masking tape, clamp on the saw guide, and
make the cut.
The bevel cut assures a tight seal with the vinyl gasket at the base of the door.
And now we'll install the weatherstripping for the door.
The weatherstripping supplied with this jam fits into the pre-routed grooves like so.
To allow for thicker weatherstripping, it's possible to bevel cut the sides of the door
like you saw us do the bottom.
The final step in our installation is the doorknob.
Now, this is a standard cylinder lock for an exterior door.
It's composed of two doorknobs that fit on a cylinder shaft, and that turns the bolt
mechanism that releases the lock from the strike plate.
Now, this cylinder here is called the rose mechanism, and it's mounted over a hole in
the door.
Installation is pretty straightforward, and you'll find manufacturer's instructions in
the package with your door hardware.
Along with the instructions, they'll include a template that you bend over the corner of
the door to locate the knob and lock holes.
The common height for a residential doorknob is 36 inches from the floor, so I measure
up and mark a line.
Then I set the template to the line and mark for the center of the hole for the knob and
bolt using an awl.
The thickness of the door is also a critical factor in centering the lock.
Now, for drilling the hole, I'll be using a 2-1 1-1 8-inch hole saw.
I drill all the way through one side until the pilot bit penetrates the other side.
And using this hole as a guide, I finish drilling the hole from the other side.
Now to drill the bolt hole, you can use a spade or an auger bit.
The instructions ask for a seven-eighths inch bit.
Now here it's very important that the hole is perfectly straight, horizontal, and aligned
with the center of the door for the bolt to work correctly.
Next we want to mortise out for the faceplate to lay flush with the edge of the door.
After outlining the plate with a pencil, I take a sharp chisel and tapping it with a
hammer I make shallow parallel cuts.
Now to remove the surplus wood.
Now we can put all the pieces together.
First the bolt with the faceplate, then the cylinder through the hole with the rose.
Then insert and tighten the screws.
Now we want to attach the strike plate on the jamb.
To locate it, we hang the strike plate on the bolt.
Then close the door and holding the strike plate centered on the bolt, we mark the top
and bottom of the plate on the jamb.
Then measure the inset of the bolt on the door and transfer that measurement to the
jamb.
Now we want to outline the plate, then mortise, then drill as deep as the bolt projects, for
us about a half an inch.
And then we screw on the strike plate.
Works fine.
Now for a different installation, let's go to our new two-story room addition where we
will be putting in a three-panel patio door unit.
Carrying your new windows and doors from a lumberyard can be a real headache, if not
impossible, with the wrong vehicle.
But with our really new Astro van, moving even large items like a door is no problem.
Astro really is the van that can do so much.
It's easy to fold down Astro's rear seats or remove them entirely for plenty of cargo
room.
And when you want to change the Astro from a working van to a family van, you just replace
the standard middle seat and the optional rear seat and you can seat up to eight people.
And this sliding side door makes it easy to load up people or tools.
If you're running ladders, there's also plenty of room on top and it's nice to know you can
still open and close the swing out rear doors, even with ladders on the roof.
And when it comes to towing and power, Astro's the van that can.
This Astro van with its standard V6 can tow up to 6,000 pounds when properly equipped.
That includes a trailer, passengers, and cargo.
No front-wheel drive van comes close to that kind of towing muscle.
And with all that, Astro is still compact enough to fit into your garage.
The hard work and versatility, it's hard to beat.
That's why Astro is called the van that can.
And why they say nothing works like a Chevy truck.
Making a new addition, we built the wall for the rough dimensions of the patio door, as
specified by the manufacturer.
And as you can see, it took a very large header to accommodate this wider opening.
The first step is to assemble our door frame.
These can come in either wood or aluminum, and are anchored together with screws.
When purchasing a sliding glass door, you want to take into consideration which door
is the sliding door and which door is stationary.
We're installing a three-panel unit.
Our middle panel will be the sliding door.
The outside panels will be stationary.
Before we set the door frame in the opening, we want to caulk the bottom of the sill with
silicone, generously keeping the caulk out of the grooves.
Now we want to center it in the rough opening.
Then we press the sill down into the caulking to make a weathertight seal.
This door comes with vinyl flanges.
These are not to be used as nailing flanges, but for weatherproofing.
With the sill level and secure, we can apply some screws to the jams temporarily, first
clamping it into position with C-clamps, checking the jams for plumb, placing five sets of shims
in the side and head jams for an even backing all around.
Once the frame is plumb, we can secure all the screws.
In securing the frame, you don't want to cinch the screws so tight that they bow the jam
because that can affect the operation of the door.
Now we'll install the stationary unit.
The stationary door is going first, each in its outside track.
This done, we then anchor it to the sill, screwing on the sill insert, and at the head
jam with a bracket that screws into the top rail and the parting stop.
Then we do the same for the other stationary panel.
The sliding door goes on the inside, putting the bottom in first, making sure the rollers
are on the track, and then fitting and securing the head stop.
If we have problems with the door not rolling properly, this unit comes with adjustment
sockets, and they allow you to raise and lower the door.
Now the only thing left to do is to insulate around the frame and install the door hardware.
In many cases, old sliding glass doors like this one are being replaced with new energy
efficient models.
The new ones are designed to fit in the same size rough opening, so the task is basically
the same as the one we showed you upstairs, with the exception of little additional work
removing the old door.
Our first step is to pry off all the exterior trim.
With that gone, we can then pull off the screen and sliding glass door out of the track, then
the stationary panel, first unscrewing the brackets at the top rail and the sill, slide
it over, and out it comes.
Next we want to remove all the nails in the jams.
If you run into any difficulty here, you can use a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting
blade and shear off the screws between the frame and the studs, and out comes the frame.
Now we want to check our rough opening with a level to see if it's plumb.
Then for the installation of the new doors, taking the same steps that we showed you earlier,
assembling the frame, caulking the sill, setting the frame in place and sealing the sill, checking
for plumb and clamping the side jams and attaching the screws.
Then installing the panels, first the stationary panel, anchoring it in the track with brackets,
then the sliding panel, tipping it in at the top and seeing how it slides and latches.
The typical structural members that make up the framing of a wall with a window are the
same as for a door.
You have your king studs, your jack studs, cripple studs, and the addition of a sill
plate or double sill plate for the best support.
We constructed this rough opening to the window manufacturer's specifications.
As with all new construction, it's necessary to cover the outside face of the rough opening
with building felt before the window goes in.
The building felt prevents moisture and air infiltration.
The first sheet is stapled under the sill, then it's overlapped by the side sheets, and
they in turn are overlapped by the head sheet, all of which are wrapped around the rough
opening.
This window comes with a flange or nail fin that's used for anchoring the unit to the
exterior sheathing or framing.
It's also an integral part of the weather stripping system to seal between the frame
and the rough opening.
Now we'll want to go inside and level the sill, shimming where necessary.
To level the window, you want to locate the shims here, underneath the side jams and not
under the sill.
You also want to put a couple shims on the side to keep the jams from spreading.
Using roofing nails, I first secure the upper corners of pivot point, then we want to recheck
for level and plumb, then I can finish nailing the flange.
This double hung window is a vinyl clad unit that comes ready to install.
Now after we put the siding on, we want to run a bead of caulk all around the edge of
the window.
This gives you the basic steps involved in the installation of a vinyl clad window.
For the best results, always check with the window manufacturer's recommendations.
Now let's go back to the site where we'll show you another type of window installation.
Now we want to show you how to open up a wall, frame out a rough opening, and install a casement
window.
These are very popular windows widely used in new construction.
They come in all sizes and styles, vinyl clad or with a factory primed wood exterior.
They're hung vertically and come with a gear mechanism that gives you the ventilation you
desire.
We ordered these units to accommodate our two by six construction and we'll frame out
our rough opening to the window manufacturer's specifications.
If for your installation you need wider jams and are available, you can purchase jam extensions.
These are strips of wood that can be fastened right to your jam and then trimmed to the
desired width.
Ready?
First off, we shore up the ceiling with vertical two by four braces to support the ceiling
while we frame out for the rough opening.
Setting the vertical is about three feet from the wall to give us some room to maneuver.
Then we remove the exterior siding and sheathing.
Next we measure for the center of the window and mark it on the soleplate.
Then once we determine where the window will go, we remove the existing studs using a reciprocating
saw and nail nippers.
From there, we measure out to mark the stud positions, the king studs and the jack studs.
Then we measure the height of the wall, cut the king studs, position them on the soleplate,
and with a level, plumb the stud and toenail.
With both of the king studs up, we measure the opening and build the header to its dimension,
nailing it flush to the top plate.
Then we measure down for the height of the rough opening.
Cut the jack studs and sill plate and add the cripple studs last.
The windows come with a nailing flange and the installation is the same as the double
hung we showed you earlier.
Making sure the sill is level, setting the window in the opening, and rechecking for
plumb and level.
If the sill requires shims, they should be placed at the bottom of the side jams only
where the weight of the window rests.
Now once the unit's level, it's just a matter of securing it with roofing nails and making
sure the window operates smoothly.
I'll apply a bead of caulk later, after the siding is installed, which will butt up against
the frame of the window.
Another kind of window we installed in our room addition is an awning window.
It's installed the same as a casement window, the only difference being the way it opens,
which works well along this wall where it can provide privacy, north light, and ventilation.
We're also going to be installing some double casement windows in the corner to take advantage
of the view of the lake.
A unique thing about these particular casement windows is the glass.
The panes have been treated with a thin metal coating.
This transparent coating makes your house more energy efficient in the summer and the
winter.
In winter, it traps most of the radiant heat indoors, and in summer, it prevents a lot
of the outside radiant heat from getting in.
Check with your window supplier and ask for glass with low emusivity, or just low E.
A popular and attractive addition to a house is a bay window.
It has a way of expanding the room, letting in more light, and adds character to the exterior
as well.
We'll be replacing this window with this box bay.
It comes as a ready-made unit with a vinyl-clad wood framework, and you can purchase these
window units in several different sizes and shapes.
The manufacturer included the suggested rough opening dimensions with the window unit, which
we measure out and mark on the interior wall to give us an idea of the area.
Then we can begin to remove the old window.
With the window out, the next step is to open up the wall from the baseboard to the ceiling,
making sure all the electrical wires were left intact.
Since the house was framed with the studs running up the entire height, interior bracing
of the ceiling wasn't necessary.
Using the reciprocating saw, we removed the old studs, header, and sill, keeping the existing
siding and sheathing intact within the rough opening area.
Starting from the exterior soffit down, we determine the location of the new header.
We locate our first king stud, shimming where necessary to maintain plumb.
The header is positioned, leveled, and nailed.
Next the trimmers go in, providing additional support for the header and giving us our rough
opening width.
Then the sill is located and installed.
Using our rough opening framing as a guide, we remove the siding and sheathing from inside
with the reciprocating saw.
Then cutting very carefully, we remove the exterior siding only to accommodate the window
unit and trim.
Then position the window in the opening, plumb, level, and secure with 16 penny casing nails
into the header and the sill.
Finally we run a bead of caulk around the perimeter of the window to prevent any air
infiltration.
Now we want to show you how to install a unique type of interior door, a bi-fold closet door.
The first step is to install the jam to accommodate a four foot door.
The jam consists of particle board that's been laminated with an oak veneer.
To assemble, carefully align the corners and secure with one and a half inch bugle head
screws.
Then place the jam in the rough opening, resting the sides on three eighths of an inch shims
that represent the finished floor height.
Now shim the side jam, positioning one shim from each side, then check for plumb and secure
with eight penny finishing nails, taking care to nail through the shims into the framing
member.
Particular care must be taken while shimming to accurately plumb each side jam and square
the angle where the head and side jam meet, so the bi-fold door operates smoothly within
the opening.
The final step is to score the excess shims with a utility knife, then snap them off flush
with the edges of the jam.
Now let's go to a finished closet to install the set of bi-fold doors.
Here we'll be installing a set of bi-folds to fit a six foot opening.
The first step is to center the sliding track within the head jam and secure it into position
with screws.
Next attach the jam bracket at the base of the side jam, again centering it within the
jam.
This bracket can be adjusted left or right so that it lines up directly below the overhead
track.
Once that's done, it can then be secured permanently into the jam and floor.
When resting the doors on saw horses, you can insert the top and bottom pivots into
the pre-drilled holes.
The vinyl slides can now be inserted into the track, making sure that they slide easily.
The door is placed into position with the top pivot placed in the top track first.
Then lifting the doors, depress the top pivot and slide the bottom pivot into the lower
jam bracket.
The final step is to install the bi-fold stop along the head jam and both side jams.
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vehicle, full size Chevy pickups, full size tough for full size jobs, the heartbeat of
America, today's Chevy Trucks.
We hope this video will help you with your job and of course there are variables with
every project, problems particular to your house we weren't able to cover in our video
presentation.
For more information on the subject of windows and doors, check the bibliography in your companion
project guide and if you're planning on doing any more home projects yourself, check out
our other titles.
And if you haven't seen our television program home time on PBS, be sure and tune it in.
I'm Dean Johnson.
And I'm Peggy Knapp.
So long.