Hello everybody, my name is Bruce Lamb and welcome to You Tile It Yourself Floor's Video.
Today we're going to be using an 8x8 tile and we'll tile directly over an old vinyl
floor.
You know, many older vinyl floors contain asbestos fibers and they can be very harmful
to you when you're tearing the floor up, the dust gets in the air and you don't want
to inhale this.
So you're better off to tile right over the top of it.
The adhesives that we're using today allow you to tile over these surfaces including
wood and even old tile.
So watch the tape a few times before you get started and review it while you're working.
This way you understand each step fully.
So let's get started, shall we?
The first job we'll show you is tiling over vinyl flooring.
This is a recognized procedure by the Tile Council of America.
It is also possible to tile over old ceramic tile, wood and other surfaces using the following
procedures.
Ideally, removing these materials or covering badly cracked surfaces with a concrete backer
board is recommended.
Here we have some examples of backer boards from custom building products called floorboard,
glasscrete and wonderboard.
Floorboard is one quarter of an inch thick, glasscrete is one half an inch thick and wonderboard
is seven sixteenth of an inch thick.
These products are compressed Portland cement and expanded shale aggregate sandwiched between
polymer coated glass mesh reinforcement.
Backer board can easily be cut with this carbide tip scoring tool and a straight edge.
Score along the straight edge and then snap it the same way as you would drywall.
For cutouts and holes, use a chisel to break through the fiberglass, then with a hammer
break through the board.
You can use a portable mini grinder equipped with a diamond blade for other types of cutouts
and thin cuts.
When covering plywood or vinyl, first spread a mixture of thin-set mortar mixed with acrylic
mortar ad-mix over the surface.
Place your backer board over the mortar and fasten it down using either one and a half
inch galvanized roofing nails or one and a quarter inch wafer head screws with corrosion
resistant coating.
Place the panels so they are not touching, one eighth to three sixteenth of an inch apart.
The nails or screws should be placed every six to eight inches apart on the perimeter
throughout the field of the board.
Using Power Tools
The following power tools should only be used by those who have had the proper training
and are familiar with the power equipment being used.
The first example of cutting tools is a wet saw.
The wet saw cuts using a diamond chip blade and is water-cooled.
You can rent one of these saws in most rental yards, and it's designed to cut all types
of tile.
It easily makes straight cuts, angle cuts, miter cuts, and many other types.
Hand Cutting Tools
There are several types of cutting tools for every tile.
They range in price and size for your needs.
These are just a few of the best and easiest to use on the market.
They are all equipped with a carbide cutting wheel that scores the tile, then with a quick
snap they split the tile in two.
Other Tools Needed for Tile
These are the basic tools you will need when tiling.
The first tool is called a margin trowel.
It is used for prying up tiles and mixing mortar.
Here we are demonstrating the rod saw.
The rod has small carbide chips attached to it, which allows you to saw through the tile.
This works well with most softer tiles.
The next tool you'll need is a notch trowel.
The notches on the trowel come in different sizes to measure the correct amount of mortar
to be applied to the surface for the type of tile you are using.
Here we have the tile nippers.
The cutting edge of the nippers have carbide teeth that are used to bite off small pieces
of tile.
Mark a line on the tile you need to trim and bite off the small pieces.
Use only the edge of the nippers teeth as shown for smoother cuts.
For grouting, you will need a rubber grout float.
This is used to spread the grout across the tile.
You will also need a large grout sponge for cleaning your tile.
The remaining tools you may already have, like a pencil, a tape measure, a chalk line
for marking your working lines, and a carpenter's framing square and a long straight edge.
You will also need a couple of large buckets, some rubber gloves, and good eye protection
when cutting tile.
Using the grid layout method.
Today, we'll be installing 8x8 tile using the grid layout method.
A grid consists of a group of lines forming perfect squares which you will lay your tile
within.
To begin your layout of the tile, first measure and find the center point of the room.
First in one direction, then in the other.
Make a mark at these two intersecting lines.
A grease pencil is excellent for marking on floors or tile.
Now, transfer these measurements on the floor in both directions and make your first set
of chalk lines.
Have a friend hold one end of the chalk line and snap your first line.
Then make your second line going in the opposite direction.
Using your framing square, check to make sure these intersecting lines are perfectly square.
If they are not, move one of the lines until it is.
Now we are ready to establish our layout.
We will be spacing the 8x8 tiles with these plastic cross spacers.
These spacers come in various sizes and shapes.
The T spacers on the right are used for rectangular tiles.
Start placing your tiles along this line.
The first tile will butt up against the center corner.
Add your first spacer and place in the next tile.
Continue adding your spacers and tile along this line until you come to the side walls
of the room.
As you can see, the layout leaves us with a small sliver cut in front of the cabinets
and at the other side of the room.
Most people prefer a larger cut instead of the sliver cut.
To accomplish this, remove the first two tiles you placed in and take a tile and place it
on the line so that the line is in the center of the tile.
Then begin to replace the spacers and slide the rest of the tiles in place.
Continue this procedure like before until you come to the two side walls.
As you can see, this leaves you with a larger cut at both ends of the side walls.
Most people prefer this layout over the smaller cuts.
Now place your square and straight edge on the center tile and begin your layout in the
opposite direction.
Continue to set your plastic spacers in place until you reach the end.
In some cases, you may need to make a cut here.
Move the tile around until you have the desired layout.
To establish your working grid, place three tiles on the floor with the spacers.
Then add one quarter inch or the width of the spacers.
This will give you the correct spacing for your grid layout.
Make this mark right on your tape measure for easy reference.
As you can see, our grid will be 24 and one quarter inches across.
Make these marks at both sides of the room.
You can now snap your first grid line.
Now continue transferring these lines down both sides of the room.
Be very careful and make sure your measurements are exact.
If you're off a little, you'll have problems later.
Double check your measurements often.
Making care now will pay off in the long run.
You can now snap a couple of lines and get started with the tiling.
Using your spacers, start setting your tile for a dry run.
The spacers will keep the layout square.
Now place your tape measure on the grid and measure the cut and the first two tiles.
As you can see, it's 20 and one half inches.
Transfer this measurement to the floor.
This will be your first grid line in this new direction.
Begin marking off the remaining grid lines at 24 and one quarter inches or every three
tiles.
You can now snap your first course grid line.
We have decided to start running tile down this wall, then into the laundry room.
We will then tile the laundry room and then back out.
Now it's time to mix your thinset mortar.
Here we are using custom thinset mortar and have mixed it with custom acrylic mortar admixt
in place of water to ensure a good bond and long lasting installation.
For difficult bonding conditions such as porcelain, cement body tiles, use Super Strength Custom
Flex mixed with a thinset mortar.
Mix the thinset mortar and acrylic mortar admixt according to the directions so it spreads
easily but has enough consistency so when you comb the mortar with the notch trowel,
the ridges will stand up and not slump.
The notches on the trowel come in different sizes to measure the correct amount of mortar
to be applied to the surface.
Check the back of the custom thinset mortar bag or the acrylic mortar admixt container
to find the right size notch trowel for the type and size of tile you are using.
Begin spreading the mortar with the flat side of the trowel.
This is done to ensure you are getting good coverage.
Next go over the same area you just spread with the notch side of the trowel.
Try not to push too hard and comb the area so it has the same thickness.
Make sure the teeth of the trowel are just barely scraping the bottom.
If you have too much mortar, scrape the excess off the trowel into the bucket.
Make sure the area has the same thickness, being careful not to scrape off too much.
Remember the notch size measures the correct amount of mortar for the job.
Now it's time to begin setting your tile.
Always place the first tile up against the corner so the chalk lines are showing.
And continue placing the remaining tiles, pushing firmly to set the tile into the mortar.
Place your next three tiles along the chalk line, then the next three tiles.
Try to set them approximately one quarter inch apart and as straight as possible.
When these tiles are set, begin placing in your cross spacers.
Make sure the tiles are seated properly and that each spacer is pressed into the mortar.
Some people may want to leave the spacers in and grout over them.
If you need to remove them, use an ice pick when the floor is set properly.
Next, make your tile cuts and then begin placing these cuts into the mortar.
Make sure you press them firmly and that they are set straight.
If you have any mortar on the tile or oozing up through the joints, clean it off with your
sponge at this time.
Now you have completed your first grid successfully, so begin spreading your mortar into the adjoining
grid.
Try not to touch the tile you just set and don't cover up the chalk lines.
Now continue placing more of your tile.
Set your first tile on the line next to the tile you set previously.
Then continue down the line, making sure each tile is straight and that the third tile is
touching the chalk line at the corner.
Place in the first spacer and then the next tile.
Continue placing the spacers and adding more tile until you've completed this new grid
as before.
In this scene, we have laid some tile and spacers along the grid without mortar into
the adjoining room.
By doing this, we can start tiling in the far section of the room and then back out
the doorway.
Make sure your measurements are correct.
Snap a new grid line with your chalk line and install your tile as before, including
making your cuts and then setting them in at this time.
Continue this process, spreading your thin set and adding your tile and spacers until
you've backed out of the room and have joined the other tile.
Here we have joined the original row of tile, spread the mortar, and are setting the tile
in in the last three grids in this row.
Now we are marking the tile for an L-cut.
Place the tile up against the wall and make a mark on both sides to be cut out.
After joining these marks with straight lines, make the cut on your tile saw and place it
in.
Continue snapping your grid lines in both directions.
Spread more of your thin set mortar and as before, begin setting in your 8x8 tile.
By now you should have the procedures down and probably getting a little faster.
With your tile setting, maintain these same procedures over and over.
Here you can see we are beginning to back out of the kitchen.
We are spreading two grids across, setting our tile and spacers in as previously demonstrated.
Before long, you'll be setting the last remaining grids.
Remember to clean any excess mortar off the surface of the tile with your sponge and do
not walk on the tile for at least 24 hours.
Grouting Your Tile
Some floors may need to be sealed before you grout them.
Check with your tile dealer for this information.
Before you begin to grout, always use masking tape to protect the area around the grout
job.
Some grouts will stain any porous materials.
Now it's time to grout.
Mix your grout with clean water so it has the consistency of whip butter or thick frosting.
Today we are using custom polyblend sanded grout.
When grouting tiles with less than one-eighth of an inch grout joint, choose one of custom's
47 colors of polyblend non-sanded grouts.
When grouting joints with more than one-eighth of an inch, up to a half an inch wide, you
must use a sanded grout.
Sand helps fill the joint and prevents hairline cracks.
Custom has 47 colors of sanded grout available in the polyblend formulas, which include the
classic standard series, the popular impression series, and the beautiful designer series.
All polyblend grouts are mixed with water only as the mixing liquid.
Take your rubber float and begin pushing and pulling the grout across the tile diagonally
while forcing it into the grout joints.
Use your margin trowel to cut back and clean the edges of the tile so they have a sharp
appearance.
After the grout has set 10 to 15 minutes, you can begin to wash it off.
Here to protect our clothing from getting soiled, we are using a piece of plywood to
kneel on.
Now, take your sponge and clean water and begin to loosen the grout on the surface of
the tile.
For the first wash, begin with a circular motion, loosening the grout as far as you
can reach comfortably without pushing too hard.
Next, rinse your sponge out for a second wash.
You should only have enough water in your sponge so that it's filled but not dripping.
Use one stroke at a time, then flip the sponge over and use the other side.
When you pull the sponge on each side, rinse it out and repeat.
Try to keep the joints as full as possible and use the sponge to make them uniform in
size.
Remember to change your water often.
Let the surface of the tile dry, then take a towel and dust off the area.
Alright, there we go.
Well that just about does it for this tape.
I hope this tape made your project run smoother.
I'm Bruce Lamb.
Thanks for watching.