I have to make a confession, I had never used a power handsaw in my life until I started
this project.
It really extends the living area of the house and we use it a lot for entertaining and just
enjoyment.
Plus it's a wonderful transition from the inside to the outside to get from inside the
house to the garden area to be able to go across these decks is really nice.
It's just been marvelous.
We cook out, we eat out, everything else.
I'm so glad I did.
I wouldn't trade it for anything in the world.
If you're the kind of person who enjoys the house you live in and wants to enjoy it more,
if you want more living space, if you want a place to have fun in the sun or entertain
or retreat into privacy or just add more value to your house, open your home to the great
outdoors with a natural pleasing environment with a wood deck.
I thought about it for several months when I first moved in and then basically one day
I started building.
It's not a difficult thing to do, it's not like it's a three or four month project.
Making sure that the picture you have in your mind of what the finished product will look
like, making the transition from that to the real thing takes very careful planning.
Building your own deck can be easier than you might think.
It may be less expensive than you think and it can be a lot of fun.
Once you draw up your plans, stake out and measure the deck area.
This is the ledger, it attaches the deck to the house.
You dig the holes for the concrete footings and then secure the posts into the ground.
Now we're ready to put the beams into position.
These beams are the main horizontal support so it's important to secure them well.
Joists are now added and they're applied to run across the width of the decking boards.
Once all the joists are in and the main structural parts of the deck, doing the actual decking
goes very quickly and it's easy to do.
Now, a little bit of trimming, adding some stairs or railing, maybe even a planter and
your deck is done.
I found it literally the most satisfying thing I've ever done.
From New England to sunny California and everywhere in between, people are discovering the world
outdoors, expanding their living space and bringing the indoors outside.
Whether you want to do it yourself or enjoy the results of having it done, a deck is a
great possibility for your home.
Taking on your own deck project?
In the next few minutes, we're going to introduce you to the key steps you'll want to remember
when designing and building your own deck, from the initial planning stages to selecting
the proper lumber to the finished product.
And that's not all.
We're even going to show you some of the more frequent mistakes that first time deck builders
make and how you can avoid them even if this is your first project.
So get out your pencil and paper and get ready because when it comes to building your own
deck with Georgia Pacific, the great possibilities are endless.
Rule number one, before you design a deck, think about how you're going to use it.
Building your own deck is a unique opportunity that literally lets you shape your lifestyle,
which is why this first rule is so important.
There are a lot of different deck variations and one of them is just right for you.
So one of the first things you want to do is to refer to the decks and outdoor projects
booklet which accompany this tape.
Inside you'll find illustrations of different types and styles of decks as well as an outline
of the procedures we'll be demonstrating in this program.
The design process is the one place where you can literally let your imagination run
wild.
You can experiment.
Try multiple levels as opposed to a single level deck.
Design in that hot tub you've always wanted.
The important thing to remember is that this is the time to try different variations and
change your plan at will.
All you need is an eraser.
Once you start the actual construction, any changes are going to be costly and far more
difficult to make.
After you've outlined your goals, make a rough sketch of your backyard's current state.
Note the prevailing winds, the direction of sunlight, the slope of the yard, and the views
in different directions.
Next, take accurate measurements of the area.
Take doors, windows, shrubs, trees, and any potential obstructions.
Use graph paper to sketch out different possibilities for building your dream deck.
Keep in mind that the most usable results usually occur when form follows function.
So make the plan fit your family's needs.
After you've drawn up a working plan to scale, do some research into your community's restrictions
and building codes.
See if there are any restrictions specifying how far a deck must be removed from the property
line.
Check the location of any underground utilities or buried water lines.
Next, lay out a full-scale model with stakes at the corners connected by string.
Then, measure the location for each post and drive a stake at the center to mark it.
Now you're ready to plan for materials.
Use your scale model drawing to estimate how much lumber you'll need.
For example, 4x4 posts should be placed at least every 8 feet.
Calculate the number of posts you'll need for internal support.
Joists at 16 inch centers will need to have a post at least every 9 feet 9 inches to adequately
stabilize the deck.
Generally, these posts will be 4x4s and they'll rest on concrete footings.
The beams or ledgers are generally 2x10s.
Floor joists are 2x8s.
And the decking or floor is usually 2x4s or 2x6s.
The railings are 1x4s or 2x6s with balusters for support that are 2x4s or notched 4x4s.
In addition, locate some plywood for forms when you pour the concrete footings.
You'll need black plastic to cover the ground underneath the deck.
The other materials you'll need are lag bolts with washers and shields.
We'll use 1 half inch lag bolts with 16 penny galvanized nails that won't bleed or rust
from the elements.
Next, base plate brackets for the posts, angle iron, joist hangers, and bags of cement.
When you select lumber, we recommend using pressure treated lumber, redwood, or cedar.
All three are resistant to moisture and insects.
Pressure treated lumber is relatively inexpensive.
It's treated with a special process that forces preservatives deep into its fiber.
Often you can still see the yellow or green tint left over from the preservative.
Don't be concerned, it will fade into a silver gray soon after it's exposed to the elements.
Before using the lumber, allow it to acclimate to your area.
Be sure the lumber is protected from the elements and let it sit for a week while it adjusts
to local temperature and humidity conditions.
Pressure treated lumber comes with different treatment levels.
Use lumber with a preservative retention factor of.40 for posts and other supports that come
in direct contact with the ground.
.25 is recommended for the rest of the deck.
You can also add extra protection by applying a wood sealer to the deck after it's completed.
Now what about tools?
You probably already have almost everything you'll need around your workbench.
A hammer, a framing square and straight edge, a drill with a number of bits, a ratchet wrench
another saw, a chalk line, a tape measure, a post hole digger and shovel, a carpenter's
level and a wheelbarrow.
And we always recommend that you wear protective safety glasses whenever you use a saw or hammer.
If you have any additional questions about laying out your plan, estimating lumber or
building techniques, ask your Georgia Pacific registered dealer or home setter.
They are there to help.
Follow the steps and you'll end up with a deck that your friends will enjoy and a project
you can take pride in for years.
And maybe most important, don't be afraid to make mistakes because you're probably going
to.
However, there are steps you can take to keep those mistakes to a minimum.
So let's review some of those right now.
For example, don't be in such a hurry that you become a victim of incorrect planning.
Just as we saw earlier, the key is to take your time, pay particular attention to things
like the slope of your lot or the location of the sun during certain parts of the day.
Anything that can have a bearing on your deck and how it functions.
That includes making sure that you learn where all of your utility and electrical lines are
before you start any construction.
And measure carefully.
Most mistakes come from neglecting to account for the size of the materials you're using.
For instance, a standard two by four isn't really two inches by four inches, it's less.
You want accurate measurements, so measure your raw materials first.
Another pitfall to avoid is cutting too soon and too short.
This one is just as easy to head off.
The rule here is don't cut until you have to.
It's easier to take a little more off than it is to add on to a piece of lumber.
Choosing the right material is also important.
Materials like cedar, redwood, and pressure treated lumber are made to take the abuse
that decks receive.
And they'll hold up better over the years.
With those things in mind, let's now proceed with the preparation of the site, the laying
of the foundation, and the installation of the support posts.
Before you begin digging post holes and driving nails, it's a good idea to go ahead and prepare
the site.
Remove the sod from under the deck and line the bare soil with a heavy black plastic film.
Then top this with some crushed stone or pebbles.
This will prevent weeds from growing under your deck after it's finished.
Posts are the cornerstones for the entire deck.
Anchoring them solidly is one of the most critical steps.
More than one deck has suffered an early demise because the builder failed to set the posts
properly.
Square the stakes you laid out for the posts before you lay the footing.
Measure three feet in one direction down the string and four feet down the other.
Now measure across the hypotenuse.
Remember your high school geometry.
If it equals five feet, then you're square.
If it's off, swing the string right or left until you adjust the stake at a 90 degree
angle.
For the most stable and moisture resistant anchor, we recommend securing the post with
metal brackets placed on cement rather than placing the post directly in the cement.
Although there are a number of ways to anchor the post to the footing, we'll demonstrate
a simple one using a plate and bracket.
After digging a hole about eight inches deep, position your plywood forms and fill them
with cement.
Then place the base plate for bolting the post on top of the cement.
Now let the cement cure for 24 to 48 hours.
When the cement is dry, bolt the post to the anchor plate.
Then attach a line to the mark on the house where the deck will reach.
Extend the line level to the post.
Now subtract the width of the decking, joist, and beam to determine the height of the post.
Attach the post to the anchor plate and cut each of them evenly.
If the post is supposed to extend up through the deck as support for the railing, you can
cut it off later when you install the railing.
If your deck will be next to your house, you may want to attach the ledger to the wall.
Drill through the foundation and bolt the ledger snugly to the foundation.
More instructions are on page 34 of the deck book.
Use a special masonry drill and bit for this job.
Make sure that the posts are both square and level.
Now lay the 2x10 beams across the posts.
Drill pilot holes for the lag bolts and bolt them into place with an angle iron and lag
screws.
Square the beams using the same method you used with the posts.
When they are square, tack some 2x2s across to keep them in place until the joists are
nailed.
Once the beams are square, you can begin attaching the floor joists with framing anchors or joist
hangers.
Nail the joist hangers at 16 inch centers so that the top of each joist will be even
across the deck for even support.
After you've nailed the hangers, slide the joist into place and nail it tight.
After you've installed the joists, if you have any long spans of deck over 8 or 10 feet,
nail solid bridging between the joists to keep them stable and provide extra support.
Nail the bridges directly through the joists rather than toenailing them.
Now you're ready to lay the decking.
There are also a few rules to remember when it comes to laying the decking.
First, whenever possible, lay the decking with the bark side up.
This helps to reduce cupping or movement after the deck has been nailed down.
And it's pretty easy to make sure you're doing it right.
Just check the end grain of each board before you nail it into place.
Next, make sure you're always using the proper nails, especially when you're building an
outdoor deck.
Even though those shiny finished nails may look like they're going to dress up your finished
product, don't believe it.
Some may rust and bleed.
A few more tips about choosing the right fasteners.
If you're building your deck out of pressure treated lumber, use stainless steel or hot
galvanized common nails.
Don't use electro-galvanized.
If you're building with cedar or redwood, use aluminum nails.
And always remember to plan ahead.
Know where you want your benches, stairs, and railings before you get started.
Because adding something on later usually winds up looking like an afterthought.
Now let's lay the decking.
You'll probably use either 2x4s or 2x6s to lay the decking.
On this deck, we decided to use 2x6s with quarter inch gaps.
Check the grain before you nail.
Look to see where the wood curves naturally toward the bark.
Nail all decking bark side up to minimize cupping.
The first board is the most important.
Make sure it's square since the rest of the deck will use it for a guide.
Before you begin nailing the deck, it's a good idea to blunt the point of each nail
to prevent splitting the board.
Drive two nails in each joist.
You can maintain proper spacing by using a quarter inch spacer strip between each one.
At different points, stop to measure the distance remaining to be covered.
Take measurements on both ends as well as the middle to keep the decking parallel.
When you're about 5 to 6 feet from the end, start adjusting the spacing to eliminate any
wide gaps at the end.
After the deck is nailed down, snap a chalk line along the edges.
Then tack a guide strip to help stabilize the saw and trim the edges.
Now that you've seen how to anchor the posts, build the frame, and lay the decking, we'll
cover railings and stairs in the next section.
Laying out a stairway elevates you from the ranks of the rookies.
Safety requires taking your time and being patient, so don't attempt to build stairs
at the end of a long day.
In fact, you may want to simply buy some pre-cut steps for your deck.
We'll demonstrate how to build an open riser-stringer stairway.
It's the easiest and most common.
Measuring step carriages is one of the most difficult aspects of building a deck, so a
few fundamentals are necessary.
First, carriages are never placed more than 30 inches apart.
For the best stability, the steps would span two support posts.
Think of the stairs as dividing the elevation into a series of equal steps.
To determine the number of risers, measure from the ground or the deck to the top of
the steps.
Then divide by 7 and round to the nearest number.
This will give you steps with a 7-inch rise.
Outdoor steps should not have treads that are less than 10 inches.
To determine the horizontal distance, multiply the number of risers by 10.
A set of steps with four risers would have a run of 40 inches.
Divide 7 into the rise and 10 into the run.
See if you can get an equal number of steps.
Then simply adjust the measurements until you do.
Next, lay out the first carriage on a 2x10 or 2x12.
Remember to subtract the tread thickness from the bottom to allow for the top step.
Use the framing square to lay out the right angles.
Now you can fasten the stringers to the joist using a joist hanger.
After the stringers are nailed securely, nail the treads into place, bark side up like the
decking.
Then either trim the treads for rails or let them overhang the stringer.
If you are putting steps directly on the ground, it's best to set the bottom of the steps on
a concrete footing.
Then secure it with angle irons or lag screws.
The final touch is adding deck rails.
Again, form should follow function.
The chief purpose of the railing is to provide safety, so it has to be strong.
Decking is generally between 30 inches to 40 inches tall to provide adequate protection
for children.
Secure the railing posts to the beams or joists with lag screws or carriage bolts.
Don't simply nail the posts to the decking.
They won't provide enough support.
Most pickets will be 2x4s or 2x2s set at 7.5 inch centers.
The trick to keeping them vertically straight is to use a spacer when you're nailing them.
Space the vertical and horizontal pickets close enough to prevent children from slipping
through the gaps.
Local building codes in your community may require stair rails even for short stairs.
The most critical parts of the stair railing are the posts.
Secure them at the top and bottom securely.
Then add a top rail.
You can use 2x4s for spans under 6 feet and 2x6s for longer spans.
Ballisters along the side of the railing provide extra protection for children.
Now you're ready to clean up the excess lumber and sit back to enjoy your hard work.
Building your own deck can be easy, fun, and offer years of fulfillment.
These are the perfect extension of your home's living space, a focal point for entertainment,
and a valuable addition.
And at Georgia Pacific, we want to help you get the job done right because there's nothing
more enjoyable than sitting out on your own deck knowing that you built it yourself.