Hello there everybody, I'm Bruce Lamb and welcome to the set of our new television program,
American Home Repair.
It's based on our video series, You Tile It and You Do It Yourself.
Hopefully coming to a cable channel near you soon.
Right now I'd like to talk a little bit about the wallpapering video.
This video is probably the most thorough video on the market today.
It takes you from the beginner right through the pro.
So watch the tape a few times before you get started and review it while you're working.
This way you won't miss any steps.
Let's get started, shall we?
Part one, tools of the trade.
Some of the tools needed you may already have, like a step ladder, a cling bucket, a sponge
and some drop cloths.
The first group of tools we'll show you are the smoothing tools.
They are designed exactly for that purpose.
They smooth wrinkles and air bubbles out of the paper you're hanging.
They come in brush forms like this shorthaired brush which is fairly stiff and also come
with longer bristles which create a lighter touch for the user.
Here is an example of a foam smoother which is very lightweight and has soft tiny bristles
on it.
This tool can be used for more delicate papers.
Here are two examples of plastic squeegees which are very useful for smoothing and tucking
papers into corners and ceiling lines.
Here we have three types of rollers available.
The rollers are used to press the seams of two adjoining papers firmly to the wall for
a better bond.
Next we have a typical group of cutting tools.
It is very important to have a sharp blade when cutting wallpaper.
Most professionals recommend a new blade for each cut made.
This razor knife comes with a snap off blade which gives you easy access to a new blade
quickly.
You will also need a good pair of scissors and you may need some standard single edge
razor blades.
Just remember always dispose of the blades properly.
Even when used several times they can be very dangerous to humans and pets.
Here Larry is showing you some of the tools used for removing wallpaper.
This tool has a replaceable blade in it.
This one is a six inch broad knife and this one is referred to as a paper tiger.
It has small teeth on it which puncture the wallpaper that is to be removed.
We'll explain its use in detail later.
These tools are for repairing and covering textured walls.
Here is a 12 inch drywall knife, a six inch broad knife, a mud pan and a roll of drywall
tape.
The drywall tape is self-sticking and allows the drywall compound to ooze through it.
The smoother the walls are the nicer the wallpaper will look.
You will need a roller and paint pen or pasting brush if you prefer for your wallpaper paste.
You will also need a block and sandpaper.
Here are a couple of examples found.
If you are using pre-pasted paper you'll need a water tray and a four foot and two foot
level is always needed.
After watching this tape you'll know which tools you'll need.
You most likely won't need them all.
Part two, removing wallpaper.
The following section explains some of the different ways of removing old wallpaper.
If your old wallpaper is in good shape you may choose to apply the new paper over it.
First try pulling the paper off very slowly at a loose corner.
This may be all you need to remove the old wallpaper.
Or you may have to try one of these methods.
First use your sanding block with rough sandpaper to scratch the surface or use the tool designed
to puncture the surface of the wallpaper.
Go over the entire area very thoroughly with this tool.
Next use a damp sponge to allow the moisture to soak into the perforated paper to soften
the paste and allow the covering to be removed.
For larger areas you can use a pump sprayer filled with water and wallpaper remover like
this.
Soak the area to be stripped thoroughly.
Apply over the area to be removed and allow the moisture to soak in and loosen the paste.
This process may need to be repeated several times until the covering becomes loose.
Now take your six inch broad knife and scrape and peel your loosened paper away.
If you are using paperback vinyl pull the vinyl layer first then wet the wall using
either the pump sprayer or wet sponge.
Some wallpaper will come off easily with warm water after allowing it to soak for a while.
If you still have a problem add a wallpaper remover to the water being used.
Part three, cutting, pasting and handling wallpaper.
When buying your wallpaper make sure the run and the pattern numbers are the same.
If they are not return them to your dealer for rolls with the same numbers.
When hanging grass cloths and fabrics you may find shading and weave variations.
Do not hang two sheets from the same bolt next to each other always alternate them.
Next open each roll and examine it for flaws.
If you have any doubt about working around the flaws return the roll to your dealer.
Next Larry has cut a section of paper eight feet four inches long for his eight foot wall.
Never have more than two inches of extra paper at each end because you may lose your pattern.
Larry will roll a smooth and uniform amount of paste on the paper being careful not to
roll the paste over the edge of the shaded area.
By not rolling the paste over this area he will avoid any extra pace and mess on his
work table.
Notice he allows the paper to hang over the edge of his work table closest to him.
This permits him to pace the edge of the paper without getting the paste on his work area.
Always try to keep your work area as clean as possible and avoid getting any excess paste
on the face of your wallpaper.
Now push your paper across the table very carefully and allow it to hang over the edge
about a half an inch.
This allows you to pace the edge without getting the paste on your work table.
Next carefully fold the end of the paper over and butt the seams together and smooth out
any wrinkles.
Slide the paper over and fold it again so you can paste up the other side of your sheet.
Pull the sheet back over to your side of the table allowing it to hang over the edge about
a half an inch.
Then repeat the same process as before.
Finally fold the end over and match the patterns and butt the edges up.
This will allow you to carry the paper easily to the wall you're papering.
Here you can see the two sheets overlapped and butted square perfectly.
The following is an example of splitting a sheet of folded paper that has already been
pasted.
Often you'll find this is helpful because you may want to paste and fold a few sheets
at a time for hanging.
Here Larry needs a ten and a half inch section of paper.
Notice he always places the tape measure at the one inch mark when measuring a section.
This is much more accurate than using the end of the tape because quite often the end
of measuring tapes are damaged.
He then places his razor blade and the folded paper at eleven and a half inches and makes
his cut.
Larry then unfolds the pasted paper and places a long straight edge at the cut marks at each
end.
Then he simply cuts along the straight edge making sure the blade is perfectly straight
up and down and not at an angle.
The next demonstration is making a split cut with a short straight edge.
Make your cuts in the folded paper and unfold it.
Then fold it back half way and align the edges.
Then place the razor blade in the cut and insert it in your table.
Next unfold the paper and take a small straight edge and place it along the razor blade and
cut at the end of the paper.
Remove the blade and make your cut along the straight edge making sure the blade is perfectly
straight up and down.
Leave your blade inserted in the wood table half way down the cut.
Then slide your straight edge down, align it with the end cut at the edge and complete
your cut.
Foil paper cannot be folded because it will crease.
To cut a split sheet from foil paper, first place the one inch mark on the edge of the
back of the paper, then mark with a pencil.
Align your straight edge with these marks and cut along this edge.
This is a demonstration on using a water tray and pre-pasted paper.
Pull your cut section of wall covering with the adhesive side out, then place it in your
water tray and allow it to soak according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Pull the sheet from the tray by its corners and lay it on the table.
Notice that the water tray should be placed at the end of the table so the water drips
back into the pan.
Book or fold the sheet as before and allow the sheet to set as per manufacturer's instructions.
Here Larry demonstrates the double cutting of solid vinyl.
Double cutting is a method used instead of butting two sections of wall covering together.
First Larry places a section of wall paper on his plumb line and smooths it out.
Then he places a second sheet overlapping the first sheet about an inch and smooths it
out, making sure it's perfectly plumb.
Now with his level, Larry will cut through both sheets of wall covering at the same time.
Next he will pull back the top sheet and remove a small section of wasted paper under it.
With his hands, he lightly presses the two sections together.
Then he smooths out the area with his smoothing tool or squeegee.
Next he rolls the joint smooth with his roller.
Finally he will clean the area with a damp sponge and dry towels.
Here Larry is demonstrating the butt joint method of hanging patterned wallpaper.
Notice he adjusts and smooths the paper by hand to get a tight joint and proper pattern
alignment.
Finally, the paper is smoothed with a smoothing tool to create a nice tight seam.
By using a seam roller, you can make this joint virtually disappear.
Part 4, wall preparation.
For best results, walls should be smooth and washed clean from dirt, grease, and mildew.
Wallpaper should also be applied to a smooth surface for best results.
Therefore, you must properly prepare the surface to ensure the surface desired.
One sheer method is applying thick, blank stock wallpaper over a rough area, like this
textured wall.
Then apply your wall covering over this blank stock.
This is one of the easiest ways of covering a textured wall.
When preparing a room, remove as much furniture and personal belongings as possible and sweep
or vacuum the entire work area.
Next it is a good idea to mask off the area along the wall to protect this area from dust
and materials which you will use later in the job.
Next, spread out clean drop cloths.
You can use old blankets or backing pads.
Make sure you cover all tile, vinyl, and especially carpets in the room.
Now, cut the power off to the room that you will be working in and remove the switch plates
and cover them with masking tape.
There are live wires behind these switch plates and it is extremely dangerous to work around
these electrical sources while doing prep work or installing wall coverings.
If you need additional light, bring a light in from another room with an extension cord.
Here Larry is using a very useful tool called a masking machine.
It has a roll of paper and masking tape on it which allows you to cover larger areas
using less time.
Mask and cover with drop cloths all countertops or any large items that cannot easily be removed
from the room that you are working in.
Use plastic drop cloths to cover larger items such as the refrigerator that Larry is covering
here.
Larry is using a roll of masking paper to protect an overhead cabinet.
The paper has adhesive on one side of the roll.
This is a very easy way of masking off an area.
Mask off all woodwork in the room such as the store frame and window frames.
Cover any door knobs and hinges and don't forget the ceiling line.
The walls we are about to paper have a heavy texture on them so Larry has chosen to float
them with a pre-mixed joint compound to make a smooth surface.
Start by sanding or scraping any ridges or high surfaces of the wall.
Next place some joint compound in your mud pan.
Then pick up a small amount with your 12 inch drywall blade.
Practice scraping the excess mud off on the pan.
Next take the joint compound and start in a corner and float the compound from one direction
across the wall.
You should maintain a wet edge at all times trying not to go back over the areas that
you have done previously.
This will cause it to pull off the wall.
Use slightly more pressure on one side of the drywall knife.
This allows you to taper the mud or feather the edge as you float on the compound.
Don't worry about making your first coat perfectly smooth but try not to leave ridges left by
the knife.
This may seem like a lot of work but it is really quite easy and you'll get the hang
of it quickly.
This is definitely the best way to get a smooth wall for hanging wallpaper and the smoother
the wall the easier the wall covering is to install and it gives you the professional
look you desire.
Remember try not to use too much pressure on the first coat.
Constantly clean your drywall blade as you go by scraping the excess off on your pan.
This will save you a lot of clean up time.
This is an example of using too much pressure on your first coat.
You can see the ridges left from the blade.
Here is how it should look with much less pressure.
Try to float it on and maintain the same thickness throughout.
Here Larry is showing you how to float around a phone outlet using a 12 inch drywall blade.
Here Larry demonstrates using a smaller broad knife to float joint compound at a casement
window.
If possible he will switch to a larger knife to save time.
Allow your first coat to dry thoroughly then knock off any ridges left from the first coat
by sanding with fine sandpaper or scraping with your blade.
Or you may use a damp sponge to smooth any rough spots.
Be careful not to use too much water in your sponge.
Clean your sponge thoroughly and often.
Apply a second coat of joint compound and repeat all the steps explained previously.
Some walls may need a third coat.
Here Larry is patching a hole caused by a door knob.
He first makes a hole in this piece of cardboard and secures it with a string and nail.
He inserts it through the hole and unfolds it pulling on the string so it is snug against
the wall board.
While holding the string taut he applies a pre-mixed joint compound to the hole.
He fills the hole completely and smooths out the joint compound or patching material with
his 6 inch broad knife.
After completing this he secures the string with the pencil to hold the backing tight
while the patching material hardens.
Allow it to harden at least overnight.
After it has become solid remove the pencil and snip the string with scissors.
Then apply drywall tape over the patch.
Here Larry is applying the adhesive mesh drywall tape over the patched area.
Apply an additional coat of patching compound and smooth it out.
When completely dry sand lightly.
Next Larry demonstrates another way to patch a large hole in wall board.
First cut the hole square or rectangular.
Using a small piece of wall board he scores the length and the width of the paper back
side of the wall board.
Notice how he holds the piece next to the opening to make the cuts.
Next he breaks off the outside pieces of the wall board being careful not to disrupt the
paper backing.
He is left with a center piece which will fit the hole.
He butters all four sides with joint compound and inserts the piece into the opening.
He then straightens the patch and smooths it out with his broad knife.
Finally he smooths on more joint compound to completely cover the patch.
When completely dry sand lightly.
Next Larry demonstrates patching a crack on a wall surface.
First he places the adhesive mesh tape over the crack on the wall.
Then he covers it and smooths out the area with joint compound.
When completely dry all you need to do is sand the area smooth.
Part five sizing or painting the walls.
The last step in preparing a wall for paper is by painting or sizing it with a quality
flat enamel paint.
First using a small brush paint a two inch border around the ceiling line, around switch
plates and outlets, and around door and window casings.
Next roll the entire wall with a smooth roller evenly being careful not to leave any runs
or ridges.
Part six hanging wallpaper and borders.
Before you begin hanging or cutting your wallpaper you must first establish what kind of match
your paper has.
There are straight across matches, random matches, and drop matches.
Here you can see the pattern runs level and straight across the paper.
This is a straight across match.
Each sheet cut will generally be identical to the next.
This is an example of a drop match.
As you can see the pattern is split at the edge of the paper.
When you move the paper straight across it does not line up properly.
Therefore you must drop the pattern down until you have a proper match when cutting this
type of paper.
The other strip will alternate when it is placed on the wall.
A random match is usually a solid paper or has a pattern which doesn't need to be matched.
Here Larry has decided to start in the corner of the room because entering this home this
is the focal point or the first wall you see.
The paper he's using is twenty and a half inches wide.
Therefore Larry will measure twenty inches from the corner and draw a plumb line with
this four foot level.
The walls in most cases are not plumb so Larry will overlap the corner half an inch to allow
for lap joint at the corner.
If Larry would have measured from the top of the corner twenty and a half inches for
example and drawn his plumb line down then hung his first sheet on the line more than
likely he would not be touching at the corner at the bottom of the wall.
This would present a real mess and would almost be impossible to correct.
Here he carefully unfolds his booked and pre-pasted first sheet and places it directly on his
plumb line.
With his hands and a sponge he will lightly push the wrinkles out of the paper.
Then using his plastic smoothing tool he will smooth and tuck the paper in at the corners
and at the top and bottom of the wall.
Now with his six inch broad knife and razor knife Larry will trim the paper at the base
board and finish it off with his smoothing tool.
Here he is applying the same procedure at the roof line.
Notice how he pulls the paper back at the corner to cut the hard to reach area.
Again with his smoothing tool and hands he tucks the edges in.
Here you can see how the paper is overlapped in the corner a half an inch.
Next Larry hangs a second sheet of wallpaper leaving some overhanging at the top and bottom.
Carefully he adjusts the paper with his hands and aligns the patterns properly.
Observe he doesn't smooth the paper out at this time.
He will peel the paper back occasionally so he won't stretch it.
He will then use his sponge and smooth the joint between the two sheets when it is aligned
and force any air and wrinkles towards the edge of the second sheet.
Then with his smoothing tools he will press the paper to the wall and cut and dispose
of the excess paper.
Here is a close up of how Larry coaxes the two sheets of paper together using his fingers
and a smoothing tool to make the joint.
Next is a demonstration of how to cut around a phone jack.
Larry will place the tip of his knife at the corner.
While lifting the paper he makes an incision diagonally towards the center of the phone
jack lifting the paper ensures that he won't cut any of the small wires.
He then takes his smoothing tool and presses the paper tight against the jack on all four
sides.
Next Larry will hang his fourth sheet over the doorway.
He then smooths the top section to anchor the paper and align the pattern.
Now with his scissors he cuts some paper off at the door area
and tucks in the remaining paper in at the top.
With his fingers he locates the corner of the door trim and cuts a 45 degree angle to
the corner then he removes the excess paper as before.
Next Larry will split a sheet because of the multiple cuts involved in its layout.
First he needs a section seven and a quarter inches between the overhead cabinet and the
last sheet of paper.
After cutting the section and placing it next to the last sheet he will cut around the door
molding as before and smooth it out.
Next he will make a mark where the paper will lay under the cabinet and fold the paper back
and draw a plumb line with his level.
The paper will lay plumb on the line in case the door molding isn't straight up and down.
After this is done it is necessary to cut out for a light switch.
This is done exactly as before.
He makes the cut out and smooths the paper in place.
Next Larry will hang the other half of the split sheet making sure the patterns line
up properly before he puts his final touches on the sheet.
Using his broad knife he will then trim the excess then hang the next sheet.
Now let's go back to the light switch.
The following segments will show you how to cover any type of switch plate.
First cut a section of paper a couple of inches larger than the plate to be covered and lay
it over the switch and match the pattern like this.
Then place it face down and spray it with a good contact cement.
Turn it over then spray the other side and allow it to become tacky.
Next place the plate back on the wall and cover it with the paper you've just cut.
Match the pattern then carefully remove the plate and stick the paper to the plate.
Now with the paper side up roll the plate with your paper roller a few times for a good
bond.
Flip the plate over and take your razor knife and cut a border around the plate about three
quarters of an inch.
Now cut a square notch out of each corner
and fold the tabs and smooth them down with your fingers.
Now place the plate face down on your broad knife and cut out the slot for the switch.
Then poke holes for the screws.
Replace the cover plate on the wall and you're finished.
Now that your first wall is completed start your adjoining wall.
Measure and mark your wall as before.
Draw your plumb line and install the first sheet on this wall exactly as before.
Make all the cuts at the top and bottom and smooth it out with your smoothing tool and
sponge.
Now this step is very important so watch this part a few times before attempting it.
Place your level on a part of the pattern closest to the edge of your last sheet.
Draw level lines across the length of the window at the top and bottom.
Next hang another sheet as before over the window aligning your patterns and smooth out
the wrinkles.
Next cut along the bottom edge of the window and fold the flap inward a bit.
Then cut a vertical line about a half an inch inside the window to the floor.
Then remove and throw the excess sheet away.
Now measure and cut a flap out at the top of the window casement and fold it inward.
This flap should at least be a half an inch wider than the side of the window.
Now cut another vertical line a little inside this top portion of the window and throw it
away.
Then with your hands and smoothing tool press the flap into the casement and trim off the
excess.
Next measure and mark a plumb line overlapping the last sheet so you can double cut it and
align the patterns.
Place the next sheet on the line and smooth it out.
Then cut down the window opening and make it a double cut.
By doing this you are creating a flap at the top of the window casement.
Remember when we made the flap earlier we lost a portion of the top flap.
Make a cut at your ceiling line and remove the excess paper.
Then press the top flap to the ceiling and smooth the paper.
Notice how the pattern lines up at the corner.
Now trim the excess paper and clean with your sponge.
Here Larry is repeating the same process at the bottom section of the casement window.
This may seem a little confusing at first so just review the tapes a few times until
you understand all the previous steps and you'll do fine.
Continue across the window until you come to the next corner of this room.
Here Larry is checking to see if the adjoining wall is leaning in or out.
Checking down the wall with his tape measure.
He measures and split cuts a sheet so that it will wrap around the inside corner easily.
He then installs this sheet and finishes it as before.
Following this he draws a plumb line to hang the second part of the split sheet and finishes
it as before.
Review all the previous steps you've accomplished earlier until you come to the last section.
Install this section as before, smoothing the paper, trimming the top and the bottom
as you've grown accustomed to.
Now if you come to an outside corner like this, trim the surplus paper off by holding
your razor knife at an angle to the corner bead of the wall.
Take the corner off by using your sponge as shown, pressing firmly.
Larry will finish the room off with an attractive complimenting border paper.
He has pre-pasted it on his table and applies it directly over the existing paper.
He cleans and smooths it exactly the same way using the same tools.
With a dry run, he checks a pattern alignment at the corner.
Then he will return to his work table to paste and book fold it for easy handling.
Next he will align the patterns and smooth the border.
And finally, trim the excess paper with a double cut.
Part 7, Hanging Archways and Soffits.
First, Larry will measure the paper he is going to hang, then begin transferring the
measurement from the corner towards the archway.
By doing this, it will leave a small and obvious cut at the edge of the opening which he doesn't
want.
So then he decides to try centering the paper over the archway, which also will leave a small
unwanted strip at the corner.
He then decides starting at the soffit would give him enough paper to wrap the inside of
the archway and leaving a larger section of paper to the left, which is a much nicer look.
He then draws his plumb line at this point down the wall with his 4 foot level and hangs
his first sheet.
When hanging the second sheet, you can see he has plenty of paper to wrap inside the
corner of the arch.
He will then make a cut in this paper just before the arch begins to curve.
Then with his hands and smoothing tool, he will secure the paper to this area.
Next with a razor blade, he cuts the paper at the far side of the opening.
Then he cuts the curved part of the arch leaving a one inch overhanging flap.
Next Larry cuts the slots in the flap about an inch apart.
He then folds these flaps over with his thumb pushing them firmly against the inside of
the arch.
Next he cuts a small section of paper and butts to the previous one and repeats the
process.
Now Larry measures for his next sheet of paper.
He draws his plumb line and installs this section of paper.
He cuts and wraps the door area, makes his little tabs at the archway and then folds
them in as before.
Next Larry will cut and paste a sheet a little wider than the width of the door jamb and
press it firmly to the top of the archway overlapping the small tabs in the inside section
of the doorway.
Next with his razor blade, he will carefully cut the excess paper away.
Then using his broad knife as a guide, he will double cut the sections at the jams and
remove the excess paper.
Now you have a beautiful archway.
Now that wasn't so hard, was it?
Here Larry will wrap the outside corner, carefully smoothing it out to the floor.
When you come to the baseboard, you must cut a notch at the corner.
This allows the paper to wrap around the corner without tearing.
Then cut the paper as before, exposing the baseboard.
Now let's go to the overhead soffit.
Larry has decided to start from the main wall and wrap the paper around the end of the soffit.
First measure and mark the width of the paper from the main wall around the corner.
Next use a level and draw a plumb line at this mark.
Place a section of pasted paper on the plumb line and wrap it around the corner and smooth
it out.
Next cut the paper using your scissors.
Notice the angle used when Larry comes to the end of the cut.
With your razor knife, cut along the edge of the soffit to the wall.
Now wrap the paper left hanging under the soffit and smooth it out.
Using your scissors, trim the tab.
Leave about an inch of paper.
Now peel the top section of the paper back and begin to tuck the tab under.
Use your smoothing tool to help in the corner.
Then clean with your sponge.
Next measure the area left of the paper and cut a piece slightly larger.
Cut this section up against the other piece and smooth it out.
Now trim the area at the roof line.
Now make a small cut at the edge where the paper will bend.
And using both hands, push the paper up and smooth it out.
In concluding, cut and remove any wasted paper and clean the entire area with your sponge.
Well folks, that's all the time we have left on today's video.
I'm Bruce Lamb.
Thank you so much for watching.
I hope this information made your projects run smoother.
Bye bye now.