Whether you're building a new home or adding on, framing up the situation or putting a
roof over your head, if you need to rock it, roll it, or just get on with it, Home Time
has a video to help you do it right. Transform your small bathroom into a luxurious master
bath or increase your home's value by updating your old kitchen. Keep your drains draining,
your switches switching, and your footing firm, whether you do it yourself or buy it
yourself. Home Time's how-to video guides will help you get the results you want. We'll
make your next project a success. See your local home improvement retailer for the Home
Time video that's right for you.
Welcome to the Home Time Project Center. I'm Joanne Liebler.
I'm Dean Johnson. In the video you're about to see, Dean and
I will be taking you through an in-depth, step-by-step process for installing sheet
vinyl flooring and vinyl piles. In the process, we'll show you how to estimate materials,
prepare the surface, and install the new flooring. Home Time is made possible by Chevy Truck.
Who brings you? Chevy full-size pickups. Today's big pickups for professionals and do-it-yourselfers.
Chevy S-Series pickups. Today's compact pickups that play as hard as they work. Chevy's Astro
All-Wheel Drive. Today's mid-size van with standard four-wheel anti-lock brakes. Chevy
Trucks. The most dependable, longest-lasting trucks on the road. The National Home Time
PBS Series is made possible by The Stanley Works. Since 1843, Stanley's been committed
to building quality tools and other products to help you do things right.
Vinyl or resilient flooring is a durable and versatile floor covering that comes in either
sheets or tile. And due to its water-resistant qualities, it's commonly used in water-prone
areas like kitchens and dinettes, bathrooms, or laundry rooms.
There are two basic installation methods depending on the product you purchase. One requires
a full adhesive coverage over the floor, and the other can be secured along the perimeter
with either an adhesive or staples. The preparation is similar for both types. For our program,
we'll be installing fully bonded and perimeter bonded sheet vinyl, as well as 12-inch square
vinyl tiles. There are a few things you should keep in mind when purchasing vinyl. First
off, wearability. If your floor is going to be under heavy traffic, you'll want to select
a highly durable vinyl. And you may want to spend a little bit more for that added durability.
You should also read the manufacturer's product literature regarding installation requirements
and the recommended adhesives. And finally, you should buy your floor covering a couple
of days before you install it. That way it can acclimate to the temperature and environment
of the house.
Vinyl can be applied directly over concrete, plywood, existing vinyl, or old linoleum.
However, it's essential that the floor be structurally sound, dry, smooth, and free
of any dirt or grease. We built a few samples of subfloor construction that you may encounter.
And if you're planning on installing your new flooring over concrete, it should be dry,
level, and free of any dirt and debris. And any finish or paint should be removed in areas
where adhesive will be used. Seasonal moisture can cause problems with the new floor, so
check with your supplier on the best course of action to take for your situation. Typical
wooden floors are supported by a series of floor joists. These are the structural framing
members that support the floor. The layer on top of the joist is called the subfloor.
This can be made of plywood or parallel wood boards. In newer construction, the subfloor
can be three-quarter inch plywood. Under certain conditions, the vinyl can be applied directly
to it. In older homes, the subfloor is made up of diagonal wood boards covered by woodstrip
flooring. You may have a situation where the wood flooring gets covered up by linoleum,
which became obsolete in the 70s. You can apply new vinyl directly on top of a single
layer of old vinyl or linoleum. That is, provided that the surface is dry, clean, wax-free,
and firmly bonded. If the existing floor is in bad shape, you may feel inclined to remove
it. We don't recommend that you remove an existing vinyl or linoleum floor. It's a difficult
and time-consuming job. And since some of these products can contain asbestos fibers,
any sanding of the flooring material can cause bodily harm. So, rather than removing the
existing flooring, we recommend that you add a plywood underlayment. You can cover an existing
linoleum, vinyl, or woodstrip floor with quarter-inch underlayment. Now, granted, this will raise
the height of your floor, so you may need to trim the bottom of your doors a little.
For our kitchen, we have a half-inch subfloor, on top of which we'll be adding half-inch
thick panels of underlayment-grade plywood. Underlayment grade refers to plywood that's
been manufactured for this purpose. It's structurally sound, has a smooth surface, and doesn't contain
any materials that could stain new vinyl. Any voids in the plywood will be filled with
an organic filler or wooden plugs. Remember, buy plywood labeled underlayment grade. Before
you apply your vinyl or underlayment, you'll want to fix any squeaks that the floor might
have. Squeaks are caused by the subfloor lifting from the joists. One way to remedy a squeak
is to drive screws through the subfloor and into a joist closest to the squeak. If the
joists aren't visible because the underfloor is covered by vinyl, then drive several screws
in the vicinity until the squeak is eliminated. When applying underlayment, the first step
is to clear the area completely. This can include the removal of furnishings and appliances
in a kitchen, the removal of a toilet and a bathroom, as well as any vents or floor
registers which might impede the installation. Whatever base molding or cord around it can
be easily removed without marring the walls will make it that much easier to fit the vinyl
and hide any irregularities along the wall line. If you're going to remove the baseboard,
use a flat pry bar. When you do this, always put a broad putty knife behind the bar so
the bar doesn't dig into the wall. Without doing this, you can really make a mess of
the walls. As you remove them, it's a good idea to note each piece's location on the
back. This serves as a reference point when you go to reinstall them. If you're saving
your baseboard to put it back later, it's going to look something like this when you
pull it out. I want to show you a tip. If you hammer the nails from the back, often
what happens is a wood will splinter badly and seriously scar the face. However, if you
pull the nails out from the back with nippers, you leave the face of the wood undamaged.
There are certain guidelines that will create a strong floor system. Whenever you can secure
your underlayment into the joists, it makes a stronger bond. In our situation, we can
see by the screw heads on the surface where the joists are located. So we're positioning
our first panel with the end centered on the joists. Another guideline for creating a strong
floor is to stagger the seams. If your subfloor is visible like ours is, be sure to stagger
the seams between the subfloor and the underlayment. We're going to start our underlayment installation
with a full four by eight panel running across the doorway. There's a reason for this. We
don't want a seam in the center of the doorway. It's a high traffic area. And the movement
in the panels could over time make the joint visible through the vinyl. Once in place,
we secure the panel with two inch screws. You can also use cement coated nails. As we mentioned
earlier, if you're putting down a quarter inch plywood, you can use staples. With the
first one down, we'll snap a chalk line along the edge of the panel running the length of
the kitchen. This gives us a guideline for our first row. From here, we can measure and
cut subsequent panels.
Before we lay the last row of plywood, we'll again mark the location of the joists on the
third row of panels. With all the underlayment tacked down, we snap chalk lines along the
location of the joists. I'm securing each panel, positioning the screws every three
inches around its edge and every six inches in the field along the joists. When using
screws, the goal is to indent the head just below the surface of the plywood. This indentation
will later be filled with patching compound for an even surface. As an alternative to
screws, cement coated nails can be used to secure half inch underlayment to the floor.
The spacing for nails should be the same as for the screws. If you're securing quarter
inch plywood with staples, make sure that the staples are flush with the surface of
the wood. If not, just come back and tap them flat with a hammer. You want to undercut the
door trim so that the vinyl slides right underneath it. You'll find this is a lot easier than
trying to make cuts out of the vinyl to fit around the trim. Use a piece of the flooring
material as a saw guide. This gives you the correct height and the new flooring will slip
right into place. Using a jam saw or a hand saw, cut the excess. With the underlayment
secure, the next step is to fill in the joints and screw depressions with patching compound.
Patching compound comes in a powder form, to which we add water or a latex additive
and mix to a thick peanut butter consistency. Using a six inch broad knife, I start in one
corner and work my way across the floor, filling the screw indentations, joints, and any other
nicks and gouges in the surface of the material. Some patching compound can stain the vinyl.
Just have to check with your supplier as to the correct one to use. It dries fairly rapidly,
so you'll want to mix about a quart or enough to apply in about 10 minutes time. After the
compound has dried completely, we sand it smooth. This can be done by hand sanding,
using a belt sander, or you can rent an edger. It's a powerful tool and it takes a little
practice, but once you've got a handle on it, it works fast to give you a smooth surface.
At home time, we're always moving from job site to job site, hauling around a lot of
tools and materials, so we need a truck that can handle the workload, like the Chevy S-Series
Extended Cab Pickup. This truck is ideal whether we're hauling materials from this construction
site or driving down the highway. Its new step design rear bumper and lower step up
height make loading and unloading easier than ever. This two tier loading feature lets us
expand our cargo space. We can store tools on the bottom and materials on the top, and
with these convenient cargo tie downs, we can make sure everything stays secure. No
matter what kind of load we carry, this double walled construction protects the truck inside
and outside and keeps it looking new. This Extended Cab gives us even more space for
extra tools or for bringing along a couple of helpers on the tough jobs. This Chevy full
size pickup 4x4 is another one of our favorites for do it yourself jobs. This truck comes
standard with a 4.3 liter V6 engine to give us enough torque and towing capacity to clear
a couple of trees from this new home site. Okay, back up a couple of more feet. Also
standard are its rear wheel anti-lock brakes that give you controlled smooth stopping.
That's the kind of security you should demand from any braking system. The Chevy's got it.
Even with all the work we put this truck through, it still looks like new. The double walled
cargo box keeps anywhere on the inside from showing through on the outside. And all of
Chevy's fleet side pickup trucks give us the option of two tier loading. So we have the
option of using the box as is or creating a second loading level. Okay, that's good.
Whether we're carrying passengers, hauling cargo, or pulling a trailer, this all wheel
drive Chevy Astro passenger van is the perfect vehicle. With its combination of all wheel
drive and four wheel anti-lock brakes, this van gives us the control we need, even in
the worst weather. In fact, the Chevy Astro van has the largest towing capacity of any
van in its class. And its versatility makes sense for every do it yourselfer. The spacious
cargo area is ideal for hauling these shrubs or any other material. And with these available
Dutch doors, loading is even more convenient. No matter what size of your project, you'll
get the job done with a Chevy truck. They've been a big part of every home time project
and it's easy for us to see why the most dependable, longest lasting trucks are Chevy trucks. Whether
you're installing underlayment or not, before you purchase your materials, you want to do
a layout of the room, marking down the exact dimensions. You can then use this layout and
estimating the materials for the job. As we measure for our kitchen and dining room area,
we need to take all the floor space into account. This includes closets and doorways and recessed
areas like underneath cabinets and movable appliances. Generally vinyl comes in six and
twelve foot widths. Now because our kitchen is wider than twelve feet and longer than
twelve feet, we'll be doing a two piece installation with a seam. And depending on the layout of
the room, you'll want to locate the seam where it minimizes the amount of material and is
the least visible. You'll also want to locate that seam so it's at least six inches away
from an existing vinyl seam or located away from a joint in the underlayment. Okay Jill,
that one's twenty three feet four and a half inches. Okay. Now we could run the seam across
the floor right in front of the peninsula, or we could run it the length of the room
would be the least visible. Yeah, but then it'd be right in front of the door. Yeah,
but what's the advantage of running it across the floor in front of the peninsula? Well
it'd be out of the work area and there'd be less traffic and less chance of any water
damage. Sold. Sheet vinyl is sold by the square yard. When estimating materials for a two
piece installation, there's one important element that's often misunderstood even by
professional installers and that's the pattern match. Most vinyl designs repeat the pattern.
This repeat can come over four and a half to every fifty four inches. When matching
patterns at a seam, it's essential to figure in the extra material necessary to make that
match. Determining this of course will depend on your layout and the pattern that you use.
What we recommend is that you take your dimensions to your local vinyl supplier and let them
help you calculate the amount. One of the keys to achieving a professional looking floor
is to make an accurate paper template first. There are pattern making kits that are available
with some floor covering products, but you can also use craft paper or butcher paper.
We're going to start at this wall and roll it out in rows. A good practice is to flip
the template paper over so that the ends don't roll up when you're fitting it in place. In
making the template, we want to make sure the paper lies smooth and flat. We're going
to use the net fit method, which basically means that the paper will fit tight to the
perimeter edges of the floor. Here at the stub wall, I butt it up tight, fold it and
cut along the crease. A good way to keep the template from moving around on the floor is
to cut out little triangles with a utility knife. Then stick a piece of masking tape
across the triangle. This secures the paper to the floor. Then I run a second roll. Cut
it, roll it back part way and flip it over. Now I place it back on the floor, butt it
up to the first piece and tape the two together. Then I fit pieces in along the perimeter and
When cutting around cabinets or irregular areas, you can just take separate sheets of
paper, fit them tight to the perimeter, overlap it a couple inches on the template and attach
with tape. Now that we've finished cutting out our template, we very carefully roll it
up. Be sure not to tear the edges in the process. Our next step is to transfer the template
onto the vinyl. For this, it's nice to have a wide open floor area to spread it out, whether
it's a garage, family room or a basement. Wherever it is, make sure that the floor is
flat and free of any dirt or grease. Before transferring the template to the vinyl, we
need to establish our seam and secure the two pieces of vinyl with tape. Most vinyl
is manufactured with some excess along the edge. This is called the selvedge edge and
we'll overlap this edge so that the pattern is perfectly aligned and make a double cut
through both layers. It's always best to double check that the design repeat matches up along
the entire overlap. For the least visible seam, we'll butt up the edge of the top piece
to the edge of the design element of the pattern on the bottom piece. Then we'll cut off the
selvedge edges, which will also be the edge of the grout line on both pieces. But before
we do that, I've cut out a hunk of vinyl on the top here so I can match up the pattern
between the bottom piece and the top piece. With our seam established, we next secure
it in place with tape, which we place across the seam in several places. It's critical
that it's taped well. Any shifting could later throw our whole installation off. This tape
will later serve as reference points when we go to matching the two pieces up in the
kitchen. With the seam taped, we can now transfer the template onto the vinyl and cut it out.
When we reposition our template on the vinyl, line the edge of the template so that it's
square with the vinyl. This will ensure the vinyl being square to the room. First we tape
the borders and the triangle inserts to avoid shifting the paper before we cut the vinyl.
A straight edge can help reinforce the edge of the paper along its perimeter and keep
the template from moving. In other words, no break dancing. If you don't have enough
floor space to lay out the entire template, then you're going to have to make your template
in two or more sections. We'll show you how to do that later in the program when we demonstrate
how to install perimeter bonded vinyl. Use a utility knife, but make sure that the floor
underneath the vinyl is protected from the blade with a piece of scrap vinyl.
To make the moving more manageable, we'll cut the tape at the seam and then roll up
each piece separately. I don't want to remove the tape because it'll serve as a reference
when we go to match up the seam in the kitchen. When rolling up the vinyl, roll it face out.
This will help prevent it from stretching until it can be adhered to the floor. Before
setting out the vinyl, we thoroughly clean the floor. With the floor clean, we can roll
out the first piece, sliding it under the door molding and working it around the peninsula
cabinet. We've allowed a little margin of error since the edge will later be covered
with either baseboard or quarter round. To safeguard the vinyl from possibly tearing
as we install it, I'm applying masking tape to all inside corners of the vinyl.
If you overestimate on your template, trim off any excess carefully.
align the seam here, matching up the tape to the overlap.
I'll start taping down the seam in this half of the room so that we can fold back the flooring
in the other half and start applying adhesive. With the vinyl in position, we can now begin
adhering it to the floor. Because this is a large area and we are working with a seam,
it'll take several steps. Because it takes two pieces of vinyl to cover this floor, they'll
be done in four sections. The first one will be here in front of the patio door. Next we
do the other half of that piece. Then the section in front of the sink and dishwasher
will be rolled back. The last section will be here in front of the service door to the
garage. After all the sections are done, the seam will be cut and secured. So we'll start
by adhering the dining room. We'll then move on to the kitchen and then we'll deal with
the seam. But to start out with, we'll peel back this part of the vinyl halfway down the
seam. To minimize any shifting in the material, we add some extra weight to the vinyl. Then
starting on the far corner, we apply the adhesive, shaking a portion out onto the floor. I'm
spreading the adhesive out in broad semi-circles using a notched trowel with one sixteenth
inch deep notches. It goes on very easy. The important thing in applying the adhesive is
to keep it even and you don't want any excessive pile ups. I'm taking the adhesive up to about
a foot and a half away from the seam. With the first section completely spread, we roll
back the vinyl. It's important that the vinyl be set in the adhesive within fifteen minutes
of application. Proper cross-ventilation is another important factor. The vapors of vinyl
adhesives can be pretty potent, so always have a fan going to keep the air circulating.
And if you're in a closet or closed-in area, we recommend you wear a respirator. As we
move onto the next section, we'll remove the tape and then fold back this half of the vinyl.
With this section done, I can now go over the floor with a hundred pound roller. This
will remove any air bubbles that might exist under the floor covering. They can be obtained
at most rental centers. Just begin at the center and roll out toward the edges. As I
roll out the vinyl under the cabinets, I need to be extra careful. I don't want to catch
your crease. The idea here is not to fold the vinyl, but keep it loosely rolled. I'm
working this side of the floor just like the first, spreading the adhesive up to about
a foot and a half from the seam.
All right.
OK, stop.
OK.
Yeah.
I'll be down in just a moment.
Music
With the majority of the floor adhered, we can cut our seam.
We're going to be making a double cut,
which means we'll be going through both layers of the vinyl at once.
A tip from professional installers in making a tight fit
is to take a three inch scrap of vinyl
and lay it under the seam the full length.
This raises it just enough to make up for the width of the blade.
For the white.
Using a straight edge as a guide, I make the double cut,
applying even pressure.
I want to keep the blade straight up and down.
Any tilting of the blade can widen the seam.
You may want to practice on some scraps of vinyl to get the feel for it.
Ready?
Okay.
Yeah, let me line it up.
Okay, go ahead.
With the double cut complete,
I pull out the excess pieces and lay it smooth.
Okay, now to finish the adhesive application.
For our particular vinyl floor covering,
the seam adhesive is different than the adhesive we apply in the field.
This adhesive is a two part epoxy
that I'm mixing up to the manufacturer's specifications.
To determine where the epoxy is applied,
we'll make a pencil line along the seam and then fold the vinyl back.
The seam epoxy is applied in a four inch band
using a narrow trowel having one sixteenth inch notches.
Then apply the field adhesive up to the seam adhesive on both sides.
With this completed, we turn back one side and set it into the fresh adhesive.
Then we carefully lay the second piece down,
seeing to it that the seam edges fit flush together.
Then using a hand roller, we go over the seam,
applying firm pressure to create a smooth even bond.
Any excessive adhesive that oozes up through the crack should be wiped up.
With all the vinyl fully adhered,
I'll go over the flooring one more time with a hundred pound roller.
This will ensure a strong bond without any bubbles.
Another type of vinyl flooring is a perimeter bonded floor.
The preparation for installation of this type of flooring
is much the same as that of a full spread adhesive vinyl.
You'll want the surface of your underfloor to be sound and smooth,
and you'll need to make an accurate floor plan of the room to estimate materials.
For our perimeter bonded installation, we'll be making a two piece template.
A two piece template is needed when you don't have enough room
to spread out all your sheet vinyl at one time.
So to make our two piece template, we'll start by cutting a butt seam on the vinyl.
This is different than a double cut.
Here we're cutting off the selvedge edge up to a grout line
where the next piece will butt together.
Using a sharp utility knife and a straight edge,
carefully trim off the excess.
Here again, it's important to hold the knife straight up and down when cutting
With our vinyl cut, we next establish the location of the seam on the floor,
measuring out from the living room wall and snapping a chalk line.
To ensure an accurate straight edge, we'll start by rolling the template material
along the chalk line, butting it tight, and anchoring it to the floor with tape.
With the first piece aligned and secured, we can follow with parallel rows,
fitting and cutting the ends as we did earlier with our one piece template.
Next, we transfer the template to the piece of vinyl.
First we align the seam edge of the template to the seam edge of the vinyl and tape it down.
Since our vinyl is wider than the floor area,
we're going to have to run it up on the wall as we tape the template to it.
Make sure it's critical that we tape it thoroughly to prevent any possible shifting.
Next, with the aid of a straight edge, we'll cut our vinyl and lay it in place.
That looks good.
The next step is to position the seam with the second piece of vinyl.
We butt our cut edge to the edge of the first piece,
then slide it to where the patterns match up.
Mark reference points across the seam in a couple of places with a water soluble felt pen.
Then we remove the second piece and make a template of this section of the floor,
butting the paper tight to the seam, taping in place,
and marking the same reference points onto the paper for later match-up.
In front of the doorway, we'll use a straight edge to transfer a line onto the template.
We can now reposition the vinyl and place the template on top of it, lining up our marks.
Then transfer it to vinyl.
Line up the marks, tape tight, cut.
Now using the straight edge, we'll line up one side on the pencil line
and cut the vinyl off the other side.
This will give us the perfect fit in front of the doorway.
Remove the paper and lay in the second piece, aligning our marks for a flush-fit seam.
The seam adhesive is applied just like the fully bonded vinyl we installed earlier,
folding back the vinyl and applying the adhesive in a narrow band with a three-inch trowel.
The width of the application depends on the particular brand of adhesive.
We apply the adhesive about a foot shy of the wall at this end,
where we'll need to lift it back up to apply adhesive along the carpet edge.
Once the adhesive has been spread on the exposed floor,
then beginning in the center, we fold back one side.
Then we lay down the other piece and match it up to our pen marks.
Perimeter bonded material is pretty flexible.
It can be stretched or compressed a little if you need to make a pattern match.
Once the seam is set, we wipe up any excess adhesive and go back over it with a hand roller.
Now for the seam sealer.
The sealer protects the seam from dirt and water.
Here again, check with your supplier for the type of sealer to use for your installation.
This particular seam sealer applicator allows me to insert the nozzle in the seam
and run it down the seam, squeezing the sealer out as I go.
The goal here is to deposit a bead of sealer about a quarter inch wide on the surface of the seam.
Don't worry if more than that comes out.
It will gradually blend into the glossy finish.
Once the sealer has been applied, it should not be walked on for two hours.
When stapling the perimeter, it's recommended that you use a staple gun and 3 eighths inch or half inch staples.
Anchor them every three inches along the edge.
And they should be positioned close enough to the wall so that they'll be hidden by the base molding.
If the underfloor is concrete or there aren't any moldings,
you can go with a three inch band of vinyl adhesive around the perimeter.
Using adhesive around the perimeter is also necessary in places like under cabinets where a staple gun can't reach.
And where this is the case, always apply the adhesive to those areas first and then the place it will accept staples.
Otherwise, you could tear the vinyl trying to get under it to spread the adhesive.
To do this, first fold back the material along one wall.
Then starting away from the corner about a foot, spread out the adhesive uniformly with a small three inch wide notch trowel.
Spread it along the floor to within a foot of the next corner.
Next, seat the vinyl into the adhesive.
Secure with hand roller and move along.
Folding back the material and spreading adhesive around the corner into within a foot of the following corner.
And just continue this procedure until complete.
Now we're going to show you a method for repairing a damaged section of vinyl flooring.
First, cut a slightly larger piece of matching vinyl.
Align the pattern to that of the damaged section.
Secure with masking tape.
Then using a sharp utility knife, cut through both layers of material.
Make sure that the blade of the knife is held perpendicular to the floor. Any leaning this side or that can widen the seam.
With a patch cut, we lift it out, remove the damaged section and clean the floor of any old adhesive or debris.
This may require a hand scraper, first wedging the tool in the center and then gradually prying back the old floor.
Remember, old resilient flooring can contain asbestos fibers, so avoid creating any dust.
Don't sand the old flooring or the backing.
Now with the floor clean of all grit, we can apply the adhesive to the cutout area, position the new section and secure with hand roller.
In the next portion of our program, we'll show you how to install vinyl tile flooring.
Vinyl or resilient tiles typically come in 12 inch squares and some are designed with a self-stick backing and some require adhesive.
Vinyl tiles are sold in boxes by the square foot, so when you're measuring your room, multiply the length by the width to determine the amount you'll need.
It's common practice to add an additional 5% for cutting and waste.
And again, the floor should be smooth and sound and free of any dirt, grease and debris.
And for ease of fit, it's a good idea to remove all baseboards and quarter rounds.
Once your floor has been properly prepared to accept the new tile, the next step is to establish two work lines that intersect in the center of the floor.
Start by locating the center point of the longest wall and snap a chalk line on the floor.
Next, find the center point of the line and draw a perpendicular line to the first on both sides with a framing square.
Now extend this line with the chalk line and double check it by using the 3-4-5 method.
Measure three feet along one line, four feet along the other, and measure diagonally between the two.
If the measurement is five feet, then the lines are square.
Got it.
With the room divided into quarters, our next step is to establish equal-sized borders around the perimeter.
A simple way to do this is to lay loose tiles from the intersection along the work lines out to the walls.
At this wall, the border tile will be less than half its width, so we'll want to snap a new chalk line equal to one half tile to make the borders the same size.
This makes for a more visually appealing floor design.
The tiles we're going to be installing have a self-stick backing. We can start right away.
If your tile requires adhesive, be sure to check the manufacturer's recommendations for correct application.
Then place the second and third tiles, one on each side of the first.
Again, line the edge of the tile up to the chalk line.
Next, place the fourth tile on the line next to the third.
From there, proceed in a diagonal pattern until all the full tiles in this section are installed.
Using the step method, we'll tile the floor in quadrants, placing the first tile where the lines intersect.
These tiles are designed to run in a certain direction. Directional arrows have been printed on the back side.
So before we set it to the floor, we need to make sure our arrows are aligned.
We remove the paper backing, line it up, and press. It's really simple.
The paper backing is very slippery, so discard it immediately.
You can see the paper backing is very slippery, so discard it immediately.
We'll be setting all the tile in the field first.
Then we'll come back and cut the border tiles to fit around the perimeter of the room.
Tiles are easy to cut with a utility or linoleum knife. Just score the tile and snap it.
A good method for determining the size of the border tile is to first lay a loose tile on top of the closest full tile to the wall.
Then stack a second tile on top of it with one edge butted up against the wall.
Mark a pencil line along the inside edge of the top tile and cut along that line with a straight edge.
If your tile is designed to be installed in a certain direction, then you'll need to keep this in mind when cutting your borders.
Check the backside of the first loose tile you placed down and make sure that the arrow is going in the same direction as the field tile.
For cutting a tile to fit around this outside corner,
first lay a loose tile on top of the closest full tile to the corner.
Place a marking tile on top of it and align the marking tile along the edge and corner of the cabinet.
Now mark the tile. Next transfer the loose tile to the closest full tile on the other side of the corner and use the same procedure to mark this side.
Now with the aid of a straight edge, cut along the two lines, snap off the scrap piece, and place the tile in position.
With the floor completed, we can reattach the baseboard and cord around and then clean up.
Well, that wraps up our program. We hope that this video makes your vinyl floor installation a little more enjoyable.
As with any situation or project, there are variables, special situations that we weren't able to cover in this video.
If you'd like more information on vinyl flooring, check our bibliography in the project guide.
And if you're planning more projects in the future, look for some of our other Home Time titles. I'm Dean Johnson.
And I'm Joanne Liebler. See you next time on Home Time.
The National Home Time PBS series is made possible by The Stanley Works.
Since 1843, Stanley's been committed to building quality tools and other products to help you do things right.
Thank you for watching.
See you next time.