Welcome to Share the Love of Sewing, a collection of time-saving sewing hints from home sewers
and sewing professionals that inspire sewing confidence.
Presented by Nancy Zieman, president of Nancy's Notions Mail Order Catalog, and hostess of
the Sewing with Nancy TV program and video series.
And Gail Brown, author, TV personality, columnist, and educator of all sewing topics, specializing
in serging and home decorating techniques.
Welcome to this special video on Share Your Love of Sewing.
We're producing this in celebration of Nancy's Notions Sewing Catalog 10th anniversary.
We have collected over 45 hints from viewers and sewing specialists, and I know you'll
love to try them.
But most importantly, we hope that this video inspires you to share your love of sewing
with others.
Now, we share our love of sewing and our sewing knowledge with thousands through sewing books,
sewing articles, TV programs, and now, Nancy, through this special video.
We've divided these hints into seven categories.
You'll find a little box in the lower left-hand corner of your TV screen, different color
for each category.
Refer to the back of the video jacket for the color per the category.
Before we start giving the hints in each category, Gail, we'd like to share one of our hints
with you.
My hint that I'd like to share at this time is, when I sew a garment before hemming it,
I monogram with my Pfaff Creative Sewing Machine the pattern number and pattern name
in the hem.
That way, if I get asked, Nancy, what pattern number you're wearing, or if I want to make
that skirt or blazer again, I know exactly what pattern to refer to.
Gail?
Nancy, my favorite tip is extending the facing on an unlined jacket, as we've done here.
It adds extra body, makes it more professional, and a semi-lined jacket.
Now let's get started with the hints from our viewers.
Our first category is Get Organized.
We're lucky enough to have some tips sent in from sewing professionals, and our first
one is from Barbara Gash.
She's a sewing columnist with the Detroit Free Press in Detroit, Michigan.
It's about comfort and practicality.
She recently put together a sewing room.
She wanted to walk on carpeting but still be practical.
Her husband suggested she purchase one of the clear acrylic mats that goes under secretary's
chairs.
It works beautifully, she says.
I can swivel from the machine to the serger easily, and it's also simple to see and pick
up those pins and threads.
Our next hint is from Audrey Wiltfong, who lives in Norton, Kansas, and Audrey likes
to keep track of her sewing progress with this technique.
She said, I place a bulletin board above my sewing machine and tack my sewing guide to
the bulletin board at eye level.
Using colored thumb tacks, I mark the guide sheet on the step that I'm at.
As I finish, I move the tack.
If I'm interrupted, she adds, when I return, I know exactly where to start without reading
through the entire pattern guide.
That's a great idea, Audrey, thanks.
Our next tip is from Edith Calles.
She's from Lee, Nebraska, and it's great for those of you who don't have enough time to
read or sew.
When reading a magazine, she uses a yellow accent marker to highlight information, addresses,
ads, that she might find helpful in the future.
Then she notes the type of information and page number right on the magazine's front
cover.
All she has to do is look at the cover, turn to the page, and the important information
is highlighted.
Boy, that would sure save a lot of time and frustration.
Right on the McCall's pattern magazine that we have here, we have highlighted on the cover
so it can easily be looked up in the future.
Our next get organized tip is from Regina Green in Prescott, Arizona.
She likes to store her pattern pieces on a roll.
Here's how.
She cut the bottom from a brown paper grocery bag and then cut along the glued seam and
open the bag flat.
Then she adds, when you're finished with the pattern, place your pressed pattern pieces
on this nice long paper bag rectangle.
Roll up the pattern with the pattern pieces inside and secure with a rubber band.
Then you can slip the pattern envelope underneath the rubber band to identify it.
She said it also prevents tearing and wrinkling of the tissue patterns.
It's a good idea.
For those of you who can never determine which of your sewing machine needles are used and
which are new, Sharon Mago from Hastings, Michigan has a super tip.
She calls it which needle is new, which is used.
She sews for her family as well as for other people.
Many times she needs to change sewing machine needles before they actually need to be replaced.
What she does is she puts two inches of thread in the needle and returns it to its original
case as we've done here on this needle.
The next time she needs a needle that size, she knows it is not new but may be usable
for a time.
Eileen Stevenson lives in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania and she marks bobbins for machine embroidery
with this get organized idea.
When sewing machine embroidery, generally she likes to use lighter weight thread like
we all like to do.
She said if she fills bobbins, it's difficult to distinguish from her other bobbins, so
I would often pick up the wrong bobbins she adds and end up with lighter weight thread.
To prevent this, I now mark empty bobbins with an indelible pen, a red pen, and fill
the bobbin with a lightweight embroidery thread.
Now I can immediately spot my machine embroidery bobbin thread.
Great idea, isn't it, Gail?
It sure is.
Angela Bryson in our next tip, Nancy, and she is also a columnist from Kingman, Arizona,
and she stores buttons in ziplock bags.
She says, I sort my buttons according to color and store them in see-through ziplock bags.
When I need to search for just the right button, I can do so easily without emptying an entire
button jar.
And in our samples, we've sorted the buttons by color and they can be sorted and arranged.
You can find just the right one easily and quickly.
Mrs. Harold Bars lives in Watertown, Wisconsin and her get organized tip is on making a buttonhole
template sampler.
I use a medium strip of lightweight fabric to make a sample buttonholes for each of my
machine's templates.
Whenever I need to put a buttonhole on a skirted dress, I can simply slip the buttonhole into
the sample, just like we're doing here.
I know just which template to reach for right away.
Our next tip has to be from one of the most organized sewers I've ever seen.
Her name is Nancy Strange, she's from Silver City, New Mexico, and she organizes her fabric
patterns and supplies by putting the information on 5x8 cards.
She said, by the time I got around to sewing something, I didn't know what I actually had.
Rather than risk the temptation of buying more, I decided to get organized.
And as you can see, on each of these 5x8 cards, she's put all the important information that
she needs for future reference.
Lisa Boy from Pauling, Ohio has another organizational hint for those of us that don't have quite
as much time maybe as Nancy has spent in her cards.
She writes, unfortunately I can't be faithful to keeping a tidy notebook of my projects
to prevent those depressing feelings.
I snip a bit of fabric and tape it to my sewing room calendar.
When I complete a project or a garment, now I feel a real sense of accomplishment and know
where all the time has gone.
That wraps up our get organized category.
Now for some time saving hints on updated basics.
Gail, we're going to start with a technique from Dorothy Ruby.
And Dorothy lives in Phoenix, Arizona.
Her tip is for making perfectly straight darts.
Dorothy writes, take a piece of lightweight cardboard such as the cardboard that comes
with the bias tape package and use it as a sewing guide.
Here's how.
Here you can see our dart and it's folded in half underneath the presser foot.
And the needle is at the top of the dart.
Before lowering the presser foot, place the cardboard right next to the needle and line
it up with your stitching line.
Then lower the presser foot, keeping that cardboard aligned with the line where you're
going to stitch and sew until you run out of fabric.
She said you'll have a perfectly straight dart and adds you'll have no blips at the
end.
Now that's a tip I'm going to have to try.
We also got sent a tip from some of our Canadian viewers and one of those being Gertrude Evans.
She's from St. Thomas, Ontario.
And she has a nifty tip for easier elastic insertion.
When inserting elastic one half inch or wider, she writes, clip the corners diagonally.
The elastic will slide through the casing much easier.
And as you can see on our sample we've done just that.
We've clipped the corner diagonally and it easily slips through.
Great idea.
Another one on elastic is from Alice Eastman, a sewer from San Diego, California.
And her elastic tip gives no bulk elastic seams.
Here's how.
Instead of overlapping ends when joining elastic, Alice writes, I sew one end of the elastic
to a scrap of sturdy fabric with a zigzag stitch.
But the other end of the elastic against the first end zigzag the elastic and fabric.
Then we can trim away the excess fabric or the scrap from the back and the elastic is
very flat and bulk free.
Nancy, Carrie Newell, author of Copy Creations, sent us a tip.
She's from Whitewater, Wisconsin and her tip refers to tangle free twin needle stitching.
When using a twin needle we often do have the two threads tangled.
To solve this you simply wind two spools of the thread together onto one bobbin.
Then this bobbin she places on the upright spool pin of her machine.
Using the double strand that comes off the bobbin she threads it through the separate
tension discs and the separate needles for tangle free twin needle stitching.
Another updated basic technique comes from Grace McBride, Seminole, Florida and she has
a goof proof v-neck treatment.
When making a v-neck on a garment she presses on a piece of iron on interfacing to the wrong
side of the fabric at the point area.
She adds it reinforces the fabric and makes it stronger at the point where it's clipped.
We suggest you use a very lightweight interfacing.
A great idea, Grace.
Nancy, one of my favorite authors, Jackie Dodson sent us a tip.
She's the author of Know Your Sewing Machine, it's from the Chilton Sewing Machine series.
She lives in LaGrange Park, Illinois and she has a tip for more durable, professional clipping
and notching.
You can see on this sample she never clips or notches her seam allowances together, instead
she staggers the positions.
That way the seam allowance doesn't shadow through to the right side and also the seam
is much stronger.
And that concludes our segment on updated basics.
In this category you'll say, why didn't I think of that?
Our first technique in this category is on how to use your tape measure instead of your
calculator and Bobbi Reynolds, who lives in El Cajon, California, sends us this tip.
She writes, my divide and conquer is a real time saving idea.
So often there is need to find one half of a measurement or even a fourth of a measurement.
Here's how she does it, rather than having to calculate a problem, you can simply fold
the tape measure in half and mark the midpoint or fold it in half again to mark one fourth.
Great idea Gail.
It sure is.
Sophia Powell sent us another great idea for keeping track of your sewing machine needles.
She lives in Germantown, Wisconsin.
She says, I tape a piece of masking tape to the top of my sewing machine and use a pencil
to record the size and kind of needle I put in.
I know exactly what needle is in place when I sit down for my next project.
And of course the note about the needle size can be easily erased and changed.
We've done that on the top of our sewing machine and you can see it's up there for easy reference.
Shirley Giffin received a great idea from her grandma and Shirley lives in Castle Rock,
Washington.
She said, my grandmother taught me this little tip when I was a child.
We all probably have the same habit of wetting the end of the thread and then trying to thread
it through the needle.
She finds the opposite works the best.
Instead of wetting the thread, wet the top of the needle and the thread is automatically
attracted through the eye of the needle.
It's a great idea and it's worth a try.
Do you ever run out of top stitching thread when you're stitching?
Well Mrs. Shirley Brown has a solution.
She hails from Sillsby, Texas.
She puts new thread in the thread holder and ties it on to the top stitching thread already
in the machine making a good tight knot as we've done here.
Then cut the thread tails very close.
She thought that the knot would just go to the eye of the needle but much to her surprise
it went through the eye of the needle and stitched into the garment without even showing.
I'd like to add that Mrs. Brown's tip works best for size 14 or larger needles so that
that knot can slip through.
Great point Gail.
For those of you with toddlers, Barbara Barr from Pueblo, Colorado sent in this tip.
She writes, I'm a busy sewer with a very busy four year old and I ventured forth through
the fabric store many times with my son in tow and soon he was bored and constantly going
through the bolts.
I think we all know what that's like.
She came up with the idea of taking along her older daughter's small tape recorder along
with the headphones.
What a life saver she adds.
We take several story books on tape and he can listen in private.
My son is thrilled and she can shop in peace.
Now Gail you'll have to try that with Jack.
I certainly will.
I've had trouble fabric shopping these days.
Januta Tleistek lives in Homer, Michigan and she sends us this tip for repairing jeans
before they get worn.
What she does is she cuts out a patch of fabric and fusible web.
She turns the pants inside out as we've done here and fuses the patch to the knee area.
The pants last much longer and the knee area is durable throughout the life of the garment.
Diane Belitz from Seymour, Tennessee uses a dowel for pressing.
She buys a dowel that's 1 to 2 inches in diameter and cuts it about 18 to 20 inches long, places
it on her ironing board and then places a seam over the dowel and presses.
She writes that this eliminates seams indentations on the outside of the garment and it works
especially well for wool and heavyweight fabrics.
If you tend to get carried away when you're sewing and not know how long you've been sewing,
use this tip from Margaret Sutherland from Yuma, Arizona.
She times her sewing break.
She says it's the best tip for any busy woman sewer.
Set the clock for an hour, quit when the alarm clock rings.
You'll be amazed how much you accomplish in just one hour and you won't be late for your
next task.
Gail, our friend Robbie Fanny from Menlo Park, California who writes books and also has a
publishing company Open Chain sent in this technique on how to sew and read quote unquote
at the same time.
Robbie said, I love to listen to books on tape as I sew.
It makes me eager to return to the sewing machine even if it's only for five minutes to find
out what's happening in the next story.
Many firms run tapes as well as a public library and that wraps up, why didn't I think of that?
Here are some fabric remedies.
Our first fabric remedies tip is from Cynthia Engel.
She lives in Friend, Nebraska.
It's called maximizing your wardrobe and fabric collection.
She says, I carry my wardrobe and fabric with me.
What she does is she goes to an office supply store and purchases these clear plastic sleeves.
Each sleeve is filled with a swatch from an existing wardrobe and a copy of her pattern
envelope as we've shown here.
It's great for color matching and buying accessories.
If you're an avid fabric collector, Alida O'Donovan from Tampa, Florida has a solution
for you.
She found that she had accumulated at least nine boxes of fabric.
Often I ended up buying, she writes, new fabric for a project because I didn't have time or
the energy to look through all the boxes that she already had.
To solve this problem, she cut a swatch of each fabric from the box and stapled it to
a piece of paper and then numbered the box and the paper with the same number.
Now when she's ready to sew, she shops by paging through her fabric booklet.
Mrs. Robert Milberg from Miami Shores, Florida loves both her sewing machine and her computer.
What she did is she finally decided to use her computer in her sewing process.
She input all her patterns, the size, the style, and the yardage required.
Now when she purchases a remnant or needs to know the yardage for an outfit, she can
match it up to the computer without having to look through a huge collection of patterns.
This system could also be adapted for use with index cards, and I think I'll try that
one, Nancy.
Great, Gail.
Mary Peterson from Fond du Lac, Wisconsin has a great way of storing small pieces of
fabric.
She writes, I do a lot of appliqueing with projects ranging from decorative hoops to
clothing for all ages.
To find the small pieces and colors, she ended up digging through boxes of fabric.
She went to the liquor store and picked up the boxes with the partitions that they were
going to throw away, and covered it with wallpaper, or we covered ours, as you can see here, with
fabric.
And then she stored the fabric colors in the different partitions.
She reminds us to roll the fabrics and tie them with a rubber band or wrap a rubber band
around them.
The rolling of the fabrics prevents them from wrinkling.
Nancy, you and the viewers are going to recognize this next name.
Peggy Vendel writes for Sew News, she's a nationally known sewing journalist.
She comes from Bogota, New Jersey, and she calls her tip, avoiding letting your fabric
stockpile become overwhelming.
And what she does is she donated large cuts of fabric to high school classes, Brownie
Troops, and nursing home therapy groups.
The recipients were delighted, she says, and she set herself free.
She says, I love the order and discipline of having only a few select fabrics to choose
from, and feels justified to buy new fabrics, and much more inspired to sew.
And that's the last tip in our segment, called Fabric Remedies.
Now for some finishing touches.
We're going to start off this category with a tip from Mary Malari, who lives in Aurora,
Minnesota.
Most of you know Mary from her books on creative applique and designer sweatshirts.
Mary gives us a hint on preventing gaposis.
When I sew a dress or blouse with a front opening, I never transfer the pattern markings
right into the fabric.
Instead, she completes the blouse or dress, and then when it's time for the buttonholes,
she gives it a try, tries it on.
When she tries it on, she marks a location for the buttonhole right across the bust line.
She said, even people that are small busts need a button at this position.
The remainder of the buttonholes are located at equal distances above and below that crucial
bust line position.
And Nancy, if you want better marking and stitching of those buttonholes, listen to
this tip from Norma Nelson.
She lives in Carson City, Nevada.
She says, I've found it easier to stitch buttonholes if you mark them first on tear-away paper
like Stitch-N-Tear or Wash-Away water-soluble stabilizer.
You can see I've positioned the paper over the garment, stitched the buttonholes, and
torn away the paper.
The buttonholes are perfectly positioned, and the paper provides extra stability so
the fabric isn't pulled through the hole in the throat plate of the machine.
Good idea.
And we still have another one on buttonholes from Emma Diamond, McMurray, Pennsylvania.
And Emma's an expert at making bound buttonholes.
She likes to put in bound buttonholes, she said, and she uses the window method when
constructing the front of the bound buttonhole.
But her hint refers to the back of the bound buttonhole.
On the facing, she writes, I make a regular machine buttonhole a quarter of an inch longer
than that of the bound buttonhole.
I tack it in place with a backstitch.
This eliminates bulk, frayed edges, and is stronger, but much neater, too.
If you have trouble with your hem coming down at the wrong time, listen to this tip from
Betty Wall.
She lives in Aqua Beach, Hawaii.
She knots the thread as she hems.
As you can see, as we're hemming here, we've placed a knot every foot or so.
That way, if the hem comes down, it doesn't come down very far because of the occasional
knot.
Our next finishing touches technique is from Donna Fenske, who lives in Beaverdam, Wisconsin,
and works for Nancy's Notions as one of our best sewing specialists.
Donna's tip is on hiding topstitching thread tails.
When tying thread tails after topstitching, she uses the self-threading needles.
Here you can see how we just push the thread through the top of the self-threading needle
and quickly pull it to the back side to knot it.
That way, Donna quickly finishes all our garments that have been topstitched.
And that concludes our finishing touches category.
Here's the latest in Notions News.
Our first tip in the Notions News category is sent to us from Brenda Jacoby.
She lives in Johnstown, Pennsylvania.
She makes thank you cards with Wonder Under.
My daughter is ten and a half years old and enjoys making thank you cards using Wonder
Under in fabric.
Here you can see she applies the Wonder Under to different fabrics, cuts out the letters
and shapes, and irons the fabric to sheets of paper or stationery to make her own notes
for whatever occasion.
Great for kids or adults.
Gail, we're going to use the Wonder Under again only in the three-fourths of an inch
strips.
This hint came from Jane Skank, Merchandise Manager of Consumer Products at Freundberg
Nonwovens Ltd.
And most of you know that as Pellon.
And Jane is a good friend of ours and really knows a lot about sewing.
And she likes to use the Wonder Under strips when making curtains or draperies and to match
the plaids or the prints.
She likes to use one-inch seam allowances on the curtain fabric.
And then she positions the Wonder Under a quarter of an inch from the raw edge on the
right side of one of the panels and presses.
With the paper backing still on, she turns it to the wrong side and presses along the
seam line.
Then she removes the paper backing so it's sticky.
And she laps it onto the second panel.
Now she can match that design perfectly and fuses it in place.
Now she says, open the panel out, turn to the wrong side and stitch along the fold line.
But she adds, it's not important to always stitch on lightweight fabrics, but definitely
important on medium to heavyweight fabrics.
Thanks, Jane.
If you have a problem with stray pins around your sewing machine, Patricia Monsigny from
Mercer Allen Washington has a tip for you.
She says, I often remove pins and put them aside without placing them in a pin cushion.
To solve the problem, I used a Gravit Magnetic Pin Holder beside the presser foot.
But it kept slipping off.
So as we're doing here, she cut a short piece of stick-on Velcro, placed one part on the
bed and the other on the bottom of the Gravit.
Pressing the two pieces together holds the Gravit in place, yet it can also be easily
removed.
Now as you sew, you can remove the pins and put them on the Gravit.
No more pin mess.
Janet Clare, freelance writer and consultant who lives in Stanford, Connecticut, has a tip
on using thread fuse.
This is a new item that some of you may not have heard of.
It's a thread that can be used on a conventional or a serger sewing machine, and it has a melt
adhesive around it so it can be fused into place.
She uses this to make perfect bias binding.
She likes to cut the bias binding width six times the desired binding width, folds the
strip in half with wrong sides together, and presses it.
Then she places the binding on the right side of the garment, meeting the raw edges.
With a thread fuse in the bobbin of the sewing machine and all-purpose thread in the needle,
she stitches the binding into place.
Then she finger presses the binding up and over the edge, as you can see here, and then
presses, and believe it or not, that binding sticks to the thread fuse.
Now with all-purpose thread in the needle and bobbin, she can stitch in the ditch or
topstitch the binding in place, but that thread fuse helps keep it in place while stitching.
Bonnie Mangold has a practical tip for moms.
She lives in Storrs, Connecticut, and she uses her sleeve ironing board for children's wear.
I purchased your deluxe sleeve ironing board and have yet to use it for an adult's sleeve.
What she does instead is, what we've done here, she uses the tapered end for children's
clothing, side seams, even sleeves seem fit on the board.
There's no more stretching of children's clothes while pressing.
We have another pressing hint from June Taylor from Richfield, Wisconsin, and most of us
know her from June Taylor, Incorporated, where we get all our pressing notions.
Pressing on a bare wood surface like a tailor board or point presser, June says, generates
more live steam than can be produced on a padded surface.
I didn't know this.
And she adds that collars and facing edges will be cleaner and crisper, and the wood
surface also prevents a shine.
Nancy, another innovative tip comes from sewing professional Linda McGeehee Williams, president
of Gee's Handbags.
She lives in Shreveport, Louisiana, and it's called mirrored markings.
And what she does is she uses a chalk wheel to make decorative stitching ideas on a handbag
or another sewing project.
And as we're doing here, she makes a mirror image on the adjoining side by simply matching
the edges and lightly pressing with her hand.
The excess chalk appears on the other side.
Great idea.
And that's our last tip in Notions News.
Last but not least, simplified serging.
If you like serging, you'll love these techniques.
Deborah Kloppel lives in Spanish Lake, Missouri.
She has a technique on working with a rolled hem plate.
Recently, her husband gave her a serger as a gift, and she said, last week I made a mistake
that turned into a wonderful tip.
I'd been using the rolled hem plate, and I was going to start a new sewing project using
nylon tricot.
I forgot to put on the regular serging throat plate and began sewing my seams using the
rolled hem plate, or you could use your rolled hem foot.
To my delight, Deborah adds, the resulting seams are very tight, narrow, lightweight,
but best of all, professional looking.
I'll make this mistake from now on whenever sewing or serging on lingerie.
Eleanor Mesh lives and serges in Collins, New York.
She makes piping using her serger.
She takes one and one quarter inch wide strips of seams great, folds the seams great in half
lengthwise, and then serges over that folded edge, not once, but twice, using the narrow
rolled hem settings and wooly nylon in the upper looper.
The serge piping curves easily around corners and even severe curves.
You can also use this double stitching for better thread coverage when serge finishing
decoratively.
Naomi Baker is a columnist for Serger Update and also co-author of the new book called
Distinctive Serger Gifts and Crafts.
Naomi lives in Springfield, Oregon.
Here her hint is on automatically easing in sleeves.
When setting in sleeves and serging, she likes to put the garment layer on top and the sleeve
layer toward the feed dogs.
Those long feed dogs will automatically ease in without a basting stitch or without pinning.
And Naomi adds that this method also applies when serging on ribbing.
Serge with a ribbing on top.
Sherry Lee Clark is a serger instructor in Mesa, Arizona.
She uses stick-on Velcro to organize her serger needles and her thread tails.
Put a small square of the Velcro on the side of your serger.
It can hold your unused serger needle thread.
That way you don't have to rethread the tension dial every time.
And you can label it.
Stick construction paper to the sticky side with the needle size indicated.
Then the Velcro can also be used to store and organize an extra needle or two.
Or you may store needles with the Velcro tabs inside the serger swing door.
Carrie Newell sent us another technique.
Again, Carrie is from Whitewater, Wisconsin.
Her hint is on matching the threads of the serger with the threads of the sewing machine.
She likes to wind two bobbins when starting to sew instead of just one.
The one bobbin is used in the bobbin case and the other bobbin is used on the spool
pin of the conventional sewing machine.
The spool of thread is then placed on the serger and the needle thread of the serger.
That way if the seam is spread that has been serged, you'll have matching thread.
A nice idea, Carrie.
Jan Saunders is a well-known author.
She wrote Sew, Surge, and Press and Know Your Viking and lives in Columbus, Ohio.
She says, yes, you can serge zippers.
I always wondered if zippers could be serged.
With some testing, I discovered they can.
The application is necessarily exposed.
Place the zipper face down on the right side of the fabric edge.
Surge as close to the teeth as possible, trimming the zipper tape.
Zip the zipper.
Align the other fabric edge with the other side of the zipper.
Surge through all layers, again trimming the tape.
Zip the zipper.
Then machine or hand bar tack at each end to prevent the pull from coming off.
For separating applications, bar tack the top ends and the teeth separately.
Finish by seaming over the zipper at each end.
And Nancy, we've used this both on home decorating and on fashions.
Gail, we've shared over 45 tips from viewers and sewing specialists, but we have one more
tip to share.
It's from Mrs. Louis Miller.
Mrs. Miller lives in Zephyrh Hills, Florida.
And it's kind of the tip that sums up our entire video.
The only tip I can give any home sewer is this.
Any garment or project will be much more improved if sewn with love.
How true, Mrs. Miller, and how appropriate for our video on Share the Love of Sewing.
We hope that this video has inspired you to try some of these tips and that you will try
all of them or a couple of them.
And hopefully you too will be inspired to share your love of sewing.
Thanks for joining us, but most of all, happy sewing and happy serging.
This Share the Love of Sewing video has been brought to you by Nancy's Notions.