Hi, I'm Jeff Walker.
Welcome to the Nipping, Chewing, Digging, Garbage Rating Won't Come When Called Dog
Training Manual Part 1 for puppies up to four months old.
Congratulations on your new puppy and I hope you have many years of success.
Brian Donovan's training techniques have been used on thousands of dogs to help owners
effectively train their puppies.
But just don't take my word for it.
Well, Brian's training was really terrific.
Bill and I were really impressed with it.
Oh, he's great for walks.
He comes when he's called.
He doesn't wander too far.
His attention is always on us when he's walking.
So we have no problems whatsoever.
The early cage training Brian showed us was really beneficial to getting Hollywood started
at a young age.
It was really great.
It worked out.
Well, socializing was really important.
Before Hollywood was actually old enough to train, Brian came over and expressed to us
the importance of socializing and things that we needed to do to socialize our dog, to get
them used to being around other animals, other dogs and still keeping its attention on us.
Well, I really enjoyed Brian Donovan's training.
The program, I wouldn't have been able to deal with an animal in the house if I didn't
have the training that he offered.
But from a puppy on, it was very helpful.
The state of mind that I had when I first had gotten a puppy was just incredible because
the old wives' tails rubbed their nose in their messes and spank them.
You don't have to do that to an animal.
Oh, it was incredibly simple.
In 10 days, the dog was doing what it was supposed to be doing.
It didn't take that long.
When you consider how long you have a pet, the years of enjoyment that you get out of
an animal, it took just a short period of time to enjoy it a lot quicker.
This video should be viewed all the way through and each of the techniques that you see can
be applied to the puppy training prior to four months of age at any time.
And don't forget, please call the 1-800 number seen on your screen in case you have any specific
technical questions for Brian Donovan.
Now here's Brian to show us how it's done.
Go get him, please.
Thanks, Jeff.
Hi.
I'm Brian Donovan.
Being a professional dog trainer for over 10 years now has not only taught me a lot
about dogs, I've learned quite a bit about dog owners as well.
I found that dog owners are incredibly consistent in their concerns about their puppy's behaviors
and the type of things they'd like to teach their dogs to do.
Almost all of these issues can be placed into the following three categories.
One, how to avoid problem behaviors.
Two, how to correct problem behaviors once they're present.
And three, how to establish proper behaviors.
Now it's important to know that a dog developed over 90% of its habits and behavior patterns
during its first year of life.
And so while the puppy is testing every conceivable boundary and limit possible, most puppy owners
find that getting through this first year is not only a challenge, but it can be very
frustrating as well.
And so we bring to you the Nipping, Chewing, Digging, Garbage Rating Won't Come When Called
Dog Training Manual, Part 1, designed specifically for puppies up to four months of age.
This material will be presented with the use of what I believe to be the most effective
training techniques available, practical hints and suggestions, natural behavior modification
techniques, and in some cases a little bad acting.
I think you'll find this instructional video indispensable as well as entertaining.
Thank you.
Let's take a look at our table of contents.
Number one, house breaking.
Number two, behavior modification for aggressive and destructive behavior.
Number three, puppy obedience.
Number four, handling and desensitizing for grooming and examination.
Number five, puppy play and exercise.
Perhaps the single most misunderstood aspect of dog training is the issue of house breaking.
Although the house breaking process, when done properly, is quite simple and straightforward,
it is surrounded by a cloud of misinformation and wives tales.
It's no wonder that failure in this area results in more abandoned and abused dogs than any
other reason.
Wait, none of these are good ideas.
These people need help.
To help us with our puppy training, we're here today with Debbie and her dog, Benny.
Benny, how you doing Benny?
And Benny is a...
Lassa Apso.
Lassa Apso.
And how old is Benny?
Ten weeks.
You're a pretty big kid for ten weeks, eh?
Alright, the first thing we talk about is house breaking.
Okay?
Now for this, you got your pad and paper there.
Now you had a bunch of questions you wanted to ask.
I was told that you have a lot of concerns.
You're at your wits end on how to deal with your dog.
Where do we start with the house breaking?
What kind of problems are you having with the house breaking?
I thought it would be really easy, but it's not.
I can't get him to go outside.
Okay.
Now is the dog making mistakes when you're home or when you're away?
Both.
Both?
Okay.
Now we can eliminate half those problems by making sure that when you're away or in bed
sleeping, your dog should be in a cage.
Alright, now we're talking about house breaking here.
Anytime you train a dog, you want to make sure consistency is top priority.
Consistency is important because the dog has to acquire a habit of what you're trying to
provide for the dog.
So when we're talking about consistency and house breaking, the main thing is the dog's
feeding schedule.
If we can regulate the dog's input, we're going to regulate the dog's output.
I mean if you feed him at the same time, he'll be going to the bathroom at the same time.
And that's what we want to do.
That's what we hope will happen.
How often do I feed him then?
A dog this age, you should be feeding him three times a day.
Now as a general rule, you might want to write this down.
Until the dog is six months of age, you want to feed your dog three times a day.
Now, after the dog is six months of age, you want to feed him twice a day until he's one
year.
Now this is just a general rule of thumb.
For the smaller dogs, they mature quicker.
So you may be on a once a day feeding when the dog is six months old.
The dog will tell you how much food he needs.
If your dog requires a special diet, your veterinarian will tell you that since you
should be taking your dog for regular visits for his inoculations.
Now the feeding schedule, not only should the dog be eating the same amount of times
each day, he should also be eating at the exact same time each day.
So if you feed your dog at 7.30 this morning, don't wait till 7.40 or 8 o'clock tomorrow.
What if my schedule is different?
Well you got to do the best you can.
What I'm giving you is an ideal situation.
In an ideal situation, here's what you do.
You feed your dog at the same exact times each day.
You leave the food out for 10 minutes only.
Whatever the dog is going to eat in 10 minutes.
It's important that you don't leave the food out too long for the dog because the longer
you leave the food out, the more opportunity the dog has to eat whenever he wants.
And that's why you don't want to go on what we call a free feeding schedule where you
just leave the food out all day or for an hour for the dog.
What about water?
Do you leave that out all day?
That's a good question.
Water, most of the time the problems will be urine problems.
But that doesn't mean to regulate the water.
The only thing you regulate in the dog's intake is the food.
The water you shouldn't regulate because puppies can dehydrate quickly.
When a puppy dehydrates, they can encounter serious health problems.
Especially if the dog is on a poor diet or if the dog is real active.
They start dehydrating.
They have diarrhea maybe.
You have to get the dog into the vet as soon as possible.
So to minimize that risk, you want to make sure that the dog has access to water throughout
the day until you go to bed.
Now when you go to bed for the evening, then you can pick up the water.
He can go the whole night without water.
What if he doesn't eat?
If he doesn't eat, pick it up and give it to him the next meal.
If your dog has been checked at the vet and he's free of parasites, you shouldn't have
to worry if the dog misses a meal or two here and there.
So you feed the dog those consistent times each day, three times a day.
Now the food is left out for ten minutes, then you pick it up.
And then for the first ten days of this schedule, you're going to take your dog out whenever
you think he has to go.
Now this is going to be hit or miss.
Sometimes the dog's going to have to go, other times he won't.
Now the way you figure this out is by leaving the dog out for five minutes at a time.
If he doesn't go to the bathroom after five minutes, you bring him back into the house.
Now when you bring him in, you've got to keep an eye on him because he may decide that that's
the time he has to go.
Now if you're going to have problems, you're going to have times when the dog makes mistakes.
Here's how you correct a dog from making a potty mistake.
First of all, what you don't do, you do not hit your dog for making a potty mistake.
You shouldn't hit your dog during the training at all.
The idea of a correction is to associate the dog's behavior with something negative.
Now if the dog sees the correction, then that's what they tend to blame the correction on.
So when you hit your dog, the last thing the dog sees is your hand, and if they see your
hand, that's what they become fearful of.
Now to compound the problem of a harsh correction for house breaking, if you correct your dog
too harsh or after the fact, what happens is your dog does not associate the correction
properly, and I'll go over each one of those.
A correction that's too harsh, if the dog doesn't understand where he's supposed to
go to the bathroom, and you start correcting him too harsh before he understands it, the
dog's got to go whether you like it or not.
So if he doesn't know, all he knows is that you don't like it around you because he gets
punished severely for it.
So what happens is the dog makes sure that you're nowhere around when he's got to go
to the bathroom.
So in other words, what he does is he runs into the other room and goes to the bathroom,
and then you find it a few minutes later.
Now you created that problem.
So you have to make sure you give your dog no harsh corrections.
If you correct your dog after the fact, that's the other big problem that people usually
have with the house breaking corrections.
You find the mess, you're upset, you drag your dog over to the mess, and you rub his
nose in it, or you point to it and you tell him he's bad.
Now again, that's not immediate association.
You're not correcting the action, you're correcting the result.
You're assuming that the dog can reason, okay, just because you can reason so well doesn't
mean that an animal like a dog can reason that well.
You have to train him through immediate association.
Now the way you solve that problem is first of all, just clean up the mess and forget
about it.
You missed your opportunity to give your dog a proper correction.
So I don't address it at all?
No, you cannot correct it after the fact.
So if the dog goes to the bathroom, you missed it.
What if he's doing it right in front of you?
That's the best correction to make right there.
That's the best you can hope for.
If your dog goes to the bathroom and you catch him going, what you do is you startle the
dog with a loud noise, maybe a quick no, but the no shouldn't contain a sense of punishment.
It should be more a sense of immediacy.
So you might want to clap your hands, see your dog go on, just startle him for a second.
No, no, no, let's go outside.
Put the word that you're going to use later with the potty command.
Tell your dog potty or outside or whatever word you're going to use.
Now when you startle your dog and he looks at you, you pick him up, take him outside,
okay, and let him finish.
Whenever you take your dog outside to go to the bathroom, you leave him out for five minutes
only.
All right.
Now the reason why you leave the dog out for five minutes as opposed to just letting the
dog go outside and then bring him in a half an hour later is because the purpose for the
dog going outside is to go to the bathroom.
You have to catch him as he's going and praise him.
You've already told him what wrong is, now you've got to show him what right is.
So when you catch your dog going to the bathroom outside, you've got to praise him immediately.
Tell him good.
Yell it from the window if you'd like.
Go right out with the dog.
Tell him he's done a good job.
Give him a treat right after he's done going.
And if he doesn't go?
If he doesn't go, bring him in.
Then what if he goes inside?
Well, then you've got to keep an eye on him, okay?
So it's just like having a two-year-old baby running around.
You can't give him any freedom.
The dog has to earn that freedom through training and, of course, the dog aging to at least
a year before you give him a whole lot of freedom.
So when you let him out for the five minutes, you're also making sure that he doesn't start
chewing on things in the backyard.
He doesn't chew your cable wire out of your house.
He doesn't bark at the neighbors.
All right?
Do you go out there with him?
Yeah, that'd be preferable if you go out with the dog as opposed to just kind of letting
him out and watching him.
You might want to go out with the dog so you can pinpoint exactly what he did right.
And again, when he goes to the bathroom, praise him.
Bring him right back in.
Now, the puppies usually will go to the bathroom in twos or threes.
So keep an eye on him for the next few minutes.
He's probably going to go again.
All right?
Now, you do this for 10 days.
So it's going to be hit or miss for 10 days.
Now, after the 10th day, this is where the dog is going to tell you when he's got to
go to the bathroom so that you'll be able to tell him with your command potty or outside.
And then your dog will be able to also tell you when he's got to go.
And here's how you do that.
On the 10th day, you take the dog's most consistent time.
Say for the sake of argument, you've been letting the dog out at 8 o'clock in the morning
every day for the last week, and your dog's been going consistently.
Now, on the 10th day, that dog's got to go at that time of the day because his body's
programmed to do that.
Now, instead of letting the dog go out at 7.30 or 8 whenever you're letting him out,
you just stand by the door and see what he does.
Now, he's got to go.
So he's going to do one of two things.
He's either going to go right in front of you, at which time you can administer that
correction.
Just tell him, nope, let's go outside.
Or what he's going to do is show some sign of stress.
And this is what you're looking for.
You're looking for the dog to tell you, hey, I got to go.
And I know I'm not supposed to go in front of you because you keep startling me every
time I do go in front of you.
Now, this may happen right on the 10th day or it may not happen until the 12th or 14th
day.
But what's going to happen is after the dog gets the general idea that he's not supposed
to go in the house, he still may not know he's supposed to go outside, but he knows
he's going to get corrected.
So he looks up at you, he's got to go to the bathroom, and then all of a sudden he starts
whining.
Or maybe he'll go to the door.
Or maybe he'll jump on you or bark at you.
If he shows any sign of stress, then you answer your dog by saying, do you want to go outside?
Or by using the word that you've established for the potty command.
He'll let you know when he's got to go outside.
So he'll be housebroken after two weeks?
No, that's not exactly how it works.
What we're doing is getting the dog to tell you when he's got to go.
And you can indicate to him when you want him to go.
OK?
So you've got a two-pronged method of communicating this.
Now, he's not going to be 100% accurate after two weeks.
If your dog is 80% accurate after two weeks, that's very good.
Now, he probably won't get much better than 80% until he's a year old.
People say, oh, I house broke my dog in two weeks.
Or my dog was telling me he had to go to the bathroom in three days.
Now, that may be the case.
But I can't recall the last time I saw a dog who was truly housebroken before a year.
Because dogs go through different behavioral stages.
And anything different in their schedule during their first year can get in the way of the
housebreaking schedule.
So always assume that for the first year, your dog doesn't know it completely.
And don't give him the freedom to make mistakes.
OK?
You're telling him or he's telling you.
So when I go to work and I leave the house, I leave him in the cage all day?
Yes.
You should always put him in the cage.
Now, I see you got one here.
And I know you have some concerns about the cage.
It seems so mean.
Let me explain that.
The reason why you use the cage is to keep the dog safe while you're gone.
Also to establish good potty habits.
Most dogs tend not to go in the place that they have to sleep.
Not to go to the bathroom, that is.
Now, if your dog does, well, there's not a whole lot you can do about it.
You can section the cage off and make it smaller.
But some dogs just don't have that instinct to keep their nest clean.
The other reason why you want to keep the dog in the cage is to discourage any behavior
problems cropping up the first year of the dog's life.
Like chewing on cords and chewing on your baseboards and things like that.
So after a year, can I let him out?
Yeah.
What you do is you leave the dog in the cage whenever you can't watch him for the first
year of the dog's life.
The reason why the first year is because that's when, again, your dog is learning 90% of his
habits and behavior patterns that it's going to take with him the rest of his life.
Now, if the dog is used to you leaving and him laying down in the cage and being quiet
and not chewing on things that don't belong to him, that's what he's going to take with
him the rest of his life.
So at this point, the cage is just an attempt to avoid any behavior problems that might
crop up at a young age.
If your dog does have a chewing problem or digging problem when he's six months old because
you don't have him in a cage and he continues to have that problem until he's a year old,
you may never solve it.
Because he learned it at such a young age, it's an ingrained part of his behavior pattern.
Now let's look at what we have in the cage here.
We have the dog's toy.
We're going to talk more about this later.
This is the dog's possession.
This is a little room here.
So he's got his toy and he's got his blanket.
Now the dog can destroy anything in his cage.
Don't punish the dog for ruining his blanket.
So make sure you have something that's expendable in the cage bottom.
Now when you have the dog in the cage here, you want to make sure the cage is in an area
where it's cool, out of direct sunlight, and dry.
And really that's all there is to the housebreaking.
It doesn't get any more difficult than that.
One more time, consistency.
That's the most important thing.
And remember dial the 1-800 number if you have any questions or concerns of what we
just covered.
The following is a summary of the housebreaking schedule.
For housebreaking, remember establish a precise feeding schedule.
Secure your puppy in his cage whenever he can't be supervised.
Establish a word or phrase for the potty command.
Use it when you're taking him out, outside Benny, as well as when you praise him.
Outside good boy.
On the tenth day, allow the puppy to establish his potty signal and continue this until the
signal is consistent and reliable.
Never make a harsh correction for housebreaking.
Never make a correction after the fact.
When correction is needed, make sure it's quick and it contains a sense of immediacy,
not punishment.
Warning.
If your puppy bites you, growls at you, bears his teeth at you, steals your belongings, or
destroys your furniture, your puppy is absolutely normal.
That's right.
Puppies are constantly testing the limits.
It's their job.
And it's your job to show them the limits.
And if you don't, well...
Well, whenever I pick him up or want to play or just hold him or anything, he bites me.
And I've got all these little scratches all over.
It hurts really bad.
Does he ever growl at you too?
Yeah.
And sometimes turn his lip up and kind of snap at you?
Yeah.
Yeah.
Now, it doesn't mean he hates you.
It doesn't mean your dog is mean.
If your dog is normal, all normal dogs will test the limits of the aggression.
This is part of our behavior modification.
What we're going to teach the dog is how hard they can bite and play and still be sociable.
Now the exercise I'm going to show you is completely natural.
All puppies in nature learn this.
But first, let's take a look at the puppy's teeth.
I'm sure that you know...
You can describe the puppy's teeth in one word.
That is sharp.
The puppy's teeth are razor sharp.
Now part of the function of having such sharp teeth is so the dog can learn how to use those
teeth with the other members of his family and still be sociable.
By the time this dog is an adult, if he wanted to, he could inflict great injury on anybody
he felt threatened him.
Now he's got to learn how to use those jaws and those powerful teeth so that he doesn't
hurt the members of his pack, or in this case, his family.
Now in nature what happens is...
I'll set the scenario for you.
The puppy goes up to mother, bites mom too hard on the ear.
Mom of course is in pain.
She turns around, growls at the puppy, and pins him down to the ground.
Now what happens afterwards is the puppy may fight, he may cry, he may kick and scream,
but she's going to hold him down.
And then when the puppy settles down, then she starts cleaning them and licking them
and treating them real nicely.
And that's how the puppy learns how to use those teeth without being offensive.
Same thing happens with the other litter mates.
If you've ever been around a whelping box when puppies are playing, sometimes it sounds
like they're killing each other because the puppies will fight, they'll play and the play
will get rougher and rougher until one of the puppies actually hurts the other puppy.
And at that time the other puppy will retaliate by trying to pin down the offender.
Now what I'm going to do here is when your puppy shows any kind of aggression, so remember
that's snapping at you, biting you too hard, growling at you, curling his lip up at you,
here's what you're going to do.
You're going to take the dog with two fingers around his neck like this.
Now you're not going to squeeze the dog's neck.
You're going to cage the dog with all your fingers.
The two fingers around the neck is to simulate what mother dog does.
The reason why we want to simulate this is because mother dogs have been doing this to
puppies for millions of years.
That's why we're trying to do the same type of thing she does.
The only other thing we could do that's actually closer than this finger simulation here is
to actually do it with your own teeth and I don't think you want to do that.
So I'm going to turn the puppy over.
Now this is kind of a harsh correction.
You yell no while you're doing it and then we're going to watch for that reaction.
Now remember your dog can do one of several things.
Your dog may just not fight at all.
And we haven't done it with this puppy yet so we have no idea what he's going to do.
When we roll him over his limbs may just go limp.
If he does that we're going to go right to praising him.
And he learned that he's been overpowered so he's going to submit to us.
Now another thing he might do is he may kick and scream for a little bit and then he finally
gives in.
The only other thing he'll do is he won't give in.
If your dog does not give in when you roll him over it indicates that you may have serious
behavior problems with the dog later on.
So we'll see.
Let's see what we got here.
Let's go Benny.
Let's come on down here.
Now we're not going to necessarily wait for him to do something bad here because I want
to show you the correction.
He's been doing things bad all day and now he decided to be nice for a little while.
What you do is now this happens very quickly.
You take the dog, roll him over, you say no and hold him down like that.
That's good.
Good dog.
If the dog doesn't fight you see how his feet are real limp.
Good.
You praise him for that.
There's never a correction without a corresponding praise when you're training the dog.
Now if the dog starts fighting, see him wiggle?
Watch.
Tell him no.
Good.
Good dog.
That's good.
And he gives in.
Okay Debbie, why don't you try this.
Now put your fingers under the dog's chest with these two fingers under the dog's.
There you go.
Under the dog's neck.
Now just roll him over.
You got to tell him no.
He just bit you.
No.
Now if the dog wiggles, okay now tell him good.
Good.
Good.
Now loosen up your grip.
Good.
Now if he tries to wiggle free, now just kind of wrap.
No.
No.
No.
There you go.
There.
That's the fighting we're looking for.
Good.
Now see the dog's legs give in.
You loosen up your grip again.
Tell him good.
Good.
You never let the dog up while they're fighting.
You only let them up when they submit like this.
That's good.
So how long do you do this for?
You do it until the dog submits.
Now at any point now we can tell the dog that's it.
Let him roll over and go about his business.
So real quickly again, roll him over and let's see if he'll fight.
There we go.
That's the fighting we're looking for.
Now watch.
No.
No.
Good.
Good dog.
See the reaction there?
Good.
No.
Good.
No.
There's a good dog.
That's good.
You know I loosen up my grip and I'm petting the dog real gently.
He's fighting again.
No.
Good.
Careful.
A little bit.
Good.
That's good.
Now again, at any point now I can let him go.
No.
No.
Good.
Good.
As long as he's fighting, no.
Good.
Now you'll be able to feel this in your hands.
You'll be able to feel the dog's body relax.
No.
No.
He's still not...
So there's what we're looking for.
No.
No.
That's good.
Good.
That's good.
I knew you had more fight in you than that.
There we go.
That's good.
Good dog.
All right.
Very good little guy.
Although you didn't hear it with Benny, don't be surprised if your dog makes quite a fuss
when you administer this correction.
It's not uncommon for the dog to show a great deal of stress vocalizing, crying, kicking,
trying to bite, that sort of thing.
Whenever Benny does something wrong, I just do that, flip him over and...
No.
Now remember, that correction is only for when the dog is being too aggressive.
Oh.
When he bites you too hard or growls at you.
Now there's another correction that is for when the dog is getting into things that don't
belong to him.
Like when you catch your dog chewing on your shoes or chewing the phone cords or just generally
grabbing something that doesn't belong to him, you're going to administer a different
type of correction.
Okay.
Okay.
This correction contains three criteria.
First, it should be loud.
Secondly, quick.
And third, invisible.
And that's the most important thing.
If the dog sees the correction, that's what they tend to blame.
So you don't want the dog to see your hand.
You don't want your dog to see any kind of object you're going to use to make a loud
noise.
Now, what I mean by a loud noise, it could be clapping your hands, maybe stomping the
floor or maybe taking a rolled up newspaper and hitting your leg or something near the
dog while the dog is absorbed in the activity that you want to stop.
All right.
Now we're going to try a couple things with Benny because if you can get away with just
clapping your hands, that's great.
Now I'm going to use something that dogs really like to get into.
That would be tissue paper.
Most dogs just love to get into tissue paper.
Benny loves tissue paper.
Yeah.
So we will set this down and when he goes towards the tissue paper, I'm going to administer
a correction.
Okay.
Now, if clapping my hands doesn't work, then we're going to use a louder correction.
All right.
Now it's going to be real loud.
I want to startle you here.
Okay.
Here we go.
Let the dog discover it himself.
And when he does discover it, no, good.
When it startles the dog, you take him away from it.
Good.
Are you okay?
And again, no correction without a corresponding praise.
You take the dog away from the area quickly.
So basically you're just turning him around.
So this is no longer in his picture, in his field of view.
Then you praise the dog.
You're praising the dog because he's no longer getting into trouble.
Then you let him go again.
If he goes towards it, no, good.
Good dog.
There we go.
Good dog.
He's going to learn whenever he goes near that, the loud noise happens.
And then whenever he looks back at me, then something good happens.
Okay.
Owners, on the other hand, tend to do just the opposite.
They see the dog doing something wrong.
They yell at the dog, call attention to themselves, and then administer the correction.
So they walk in on the dog chewing up their favorite pair of shoes.
They yell at the dog.
The dog looks at them, and that's where the correction takes place while the dog is concentrated
on the owner rather than when the dog is absorbed with chewing on the shoe.
Now once the dog is avoiding the object, then you introduce the dog to his toy.
Okay.
And make it real clear to him that that's his.
He can have it.
He can do whatever he wants with it.
There's a good dog.
Good.
And then this disappears.
We take that away.
Good.
Where are you going, Benny?
You taking your ball and going home?
That's good.
Good dog.
Good.
And every time the dog is out, if he does start to approach something that belongs to
you, use one of those corrections.
Now a couple other corrections you might want to use.
For some of the terrier breeds who aren't discouraged very easily, you may want to use
a milk jug, a plastic milk jug with pennies in it.
Now the idea again is the sound.
It's loud and it's invisible.
Don't let the dog see it.
Okay.
If you see your dog doing something, shake it behind their head or drop it behind their
back so the dog actually doesn't see it as it's happening.
Okay.
All right, Benny.
That was pretty good.
Okay.
Let's review the behavior modification segment.
For aggressive behavior, that is nipping, snapping or growling, remember, immediately
administer the rollover correction, then praise your pup for the desired calm behavior.
For stealing, chewing or destroying things that don't belong to your puppy, remember,
the correction should be made immediately as the pup begins the behavior.
The correction should be loud, quick and invisible.
The puppy should never see the correction itself.
If done properly, puppy obedience should be fun.
Puppies learn very quickly and if you make the early training enjoyable for the pup,
he'll repay you with great enthusiasm and focused attention.
Or you can be like our friend, Ray.
Some dogs will sit down instantly.
Sit.
Sit.
But other dogs may need a good push.
Sit.
Sit.
Okay, Deb.
Now we're going to do something fun for the dogs.
We're going to introduce them to dog obedience.
Now this obedience is not the same as what they're going to learn later on when they're
a little bit older.
This is puppy obedience.
For this, we're going to need some equipment.
We have it right here.
Here we go.
Now for this, we're going to need a leash, a small leather or nylon leash is fine, and
a buckle collar for the dog.
Now we're not going to use a choke chain.
Use a regular buckle collar made of nylon or leather.
All right?
Here, why don't you put that on Benny right now?
And we're also going to use some of the dog's food for luring the dog into the positions
for the obedience commands.
Okay, we're going to use some of the food that you normally feed the dog.
We're going to put it in hot water.
We have a cup of hot water here.
Now what the hot water does is it softens the food and a little bit of extra flavor with
that warmth and the moisture there.
Now we're going to use this as a lure to lure the dog into the positions that we're going
to associate with the words.
We're going to do sit, down, and teach the dog his name.
Now the reason for the food, the reason why we use a food lure is so that we can focus
the dog, number one.
And number two, we use food so that we can associate some of the commands that the dog
is going to hear later on when we start the formal obedience with something pleasant.
Okay, let's get started.
Let's put some food softening up here a little bit.
Okay, we're going to put this leash on here.
Why don't you clip that to the collar.
How long is this leash?
This is about a four foot leash.
Three or four feet is fine for what we're doing right now.
Okay.
And again, we have that buckle collar.
Okay, let's get Benny on the floor here.
And we're going to introduce him to some obedience.
What's he doing?
What is that?
What is that, Benny?
There we go.
There.
Okay, the first exercise is sit.
Simply hold the food over the dog's head and back him up a little bit until the dog puts
his butt on the ground.
Now, if the dog doesn't want to work, if he doesn't want the food, then you don't have
him do this.
Good, good, sit.
You don't make the dog do anything at this point.
Remember the focus of this is to get the dog to associate the commands, sit down, and respond
to his name with something good and to get him focused.
If you start pushing the dog into position or making him do it, you're really going to
turn him off to the obedience process.
This is like preschool.
So here we go with the sit.
Sit, good.
Oh, he just naturally does that.
Yeah.
Well, you're luring him into the position with your hand.
Now, don't do the sit pretty thing where you bring the food up and bring the dog's front
feet off the ground.
It looks cute, but you want to keep the dog's feet on the ground, all four feet on the ground
at all times because you don't want the dog to get used to jumping up to see what's in
your hand.
Okay?
It may be cute right now, but later on you may have something in your hand that you don't
want the dog to go after, and all of a sudden he's jumping up to see what you have.
Here we go.
Come on, Benny.
Here we go.
Lure him into a sit.
Now we're going to do down.
We're going to bring the food down and curl your hand under.
There we go.
So you can get the dog reaching underneath your hand to get the food, which puts his
elbows on the ground.
Good.
Now, if you can't get your dog to do this within a couple sessions, it's not really
that important because all you want to do is get him focused and associate the commands
with something nice.
So even if you can get the dog to follow your hand down, even if he doesn't lay down, you
still get him following you.
Now, if he stops approximating what you want, for instance, right now he's doing the down
and he stood up, you take the food away.
And then you start it all over again.
What do you got here, Benny?
There's the food.
And then we do it all over there.
Sit.
Good.
Give him a little bit of food.
Good.
And then down.
Bring the food down and get him to reach under.
Good.
Down, Benny.
Good.
Now, he's hearing very little of what I'm saying, but some of it's going to sink in.
And try to keep in mind that this is just preschool stuff here.
We're just making it fun to learn.
How long should it take to train him?
Just here, within a couple sessions, two or three sessions, working your dog five minutes
per session, you should be able to get the dog sitting and laying down on the first or
second command.
Now, here we go with his name.
We're going to introduce him to his name.
Benny.
I want him chasing his name.
So when I say his name, I pull the food towards me so he chases his name.
Benny.
That's good.
Benny.
Benny.
There we go.
Good boy.
Good.
Good, Benny.
OK.
Do you want to try it here?
There you go.
It's kind of soggy.
Now, with your hand that's holding the cup, hold the leash there.
We don't want the dog running away.
So we can keep the dog in close proximity to you.
Keep him interested in the food.
OK.
You see the dog watching my hand now.
He's getting focused on us.
OK.
Go ahead and try it.
Benny.
OK.
Good.
Now, pull the food towards you.
Benny.
OK.
He's going to be with the food.
Then he gets chasing his name.
So you want his name to be pleasant.
A lot of times dogs associate their name with something unpleasant because the owner is
usually yelling at the dog.
Benny, stop it.
Benny, get in here.
Benny, drop that.
So the dog hears his name and a lot of times they'll tend to walk the other way because
their name doesn't sound too pleasant.
Benny.
Benny, there he is.
You got his attention with his name?
Yes.
After two or three five-minute sessions of doing this with his name, you should be able
to stop your dog dead in his tracks.
When you say his name, he should whirl around and see what you want.
Good.
Now, when you lure him, instead of pushing him over like that, why don't we try luring
him with the food?
OK.
It's more effective and it keeps the dog interested more.
Then we bring him back around here like this.
Then get him to do this sit.
Let's see if we can get that.
Keep him interested in the food.
Keep the food close to him.
There's a good sit.
Tell him, good.
Good sit.
Let him have the food.
Good.
Now, when you give him the food, let him try to fight for it.
Get little pieces at a time.
Otherwise, this happens.
The dog spends 15 seconds chewing on the food and then we lose the interest in it.
OK.
Here we go again.
See him chasing it?
OK.
Now, you do the same thing.
Get him interested.
Now, bring the food down.
Straight down.
Curl your wrist under.
See if you can get him to put his elbows on the ground.
And...
Can I tell him down?
No.
Yeah.
Tell him down.
Good.
Good dog.
You want to do it like that?
Yeah.
Let him nibble it a little bit.
That's great.
OK.
Good.
Now, get him chasing his name.
Let's get him...
OK.
Make his name sound exciting.
Benny.
Benny.
Now, start with it right in front of his nose.
OK.
And then pull it away.
Benny.
There you go.
Good.
Once more.
Benny.
There you go.
Real close.
Real close.
Oh.
He's scratching there.
Benny.
See how distracted they get so easily?
Ready, Benny?
Here we go.
Benny.
Good.
That's something nice, you see.
All right.
Go ahead and try it.
Benny.
Benny.
Real quickly.
You're up in the grass.
Benny.
There we go.
Benny.
There we are.
She's got it.
I think we have somebody off in the wings here who's interested in this game, too.
Hey, Sophie.
What you got there?
Yeah.
You're back.
You're back.
OK.
Let's do a little bit of Sophie here.
OK.
That concludes the obedience.
We're going to cut to the summary now so you can take some notes.
In the meantime, we're going to see if we can teach these dogs something to do here.
Let's go.
Come on, Sophie.
I got you.
For puppy obedience, remember to practice when your puppy is hungry.
Lure your puppy into position with food treats while using the command word.
When your puppy executes the exercise, praise them by giving them the treat as well as verbal praise.
Do not force your two to four-month-old puppy into position.
Your puppy should always trust and welcome your touch.
If he's apprehensive or nervous when he's being handled or restrained, it could cause a great deal of stress,
and if left unchecked, could result in fear-biting or outright aggressive behavior,
not to mention added expense at the grooming shop or veterinary clinic.
Huh?
And we're back.
Now, this next exercise we're going to do is probably the most important exercise
that you're going to do with your dog from the standpoint of behavior
and getting the dog used to being touched and handled.
Now, in the natural setting, the single activity that brings the pet closest together would be the mutual grooming.
What we do here with the dog is we're going to turn him over, put him in a position where he's going to have to trust you.
That would be that rollover position that we learned earlier.
Now, this is not a correction.
This is an exercise.
So you do this real gently.
And again, do this every day until the dog is a year old.
Okay?
You roll him on his back, and now if he fights, then you administer the correction that we learned earlier.
If the dog doesn't fight, then you go about the examination.
What you do is you just take one paw at a time and gently pinch between his toes.
Get him used to being handled in a manner that he's not usually accustomed to.
Good.
If he fights, you're going to correct the dog.
If he relaxes, you're going to praise him.
So you'll hear me vocalizing that praise throughout the exercise.
That's good, Benny.
Good.
Now, watch when I let go of his paw.
You see how limp his paw is.
He wasn't fighting at all there.
That's good, Benny.
Looks like I got a good dog.
Yeah.
Now, for the viewers at home, you may experience quite a bit more fight than what Benny is exhibiting right now.
Again, just remember the correction with your two fingers around the dog's neck and your other fingers around the dog's upper torso for that correction.
You settle the dog down, and then you continue with the examination.
Good, Benny.
Good.
Now, we're going to look at his teeth here.
That's good.
Looking at a dog's teeth or into the dog's mouth usually will elicit a negative response in the dog.
They usually fight you a little bit.
But as you see, when the dog's on his back and he's relaxed, you get very little of that.
I'm going to look at the dog's eyes, look in his ears.
Good.
Now, this is also where you get the dog used to the sensation of a brush against his skin.
Dogs welcome being brushed as long as they know what you're doing.
The dogs that don't like being brushed usually do not like the sound of the brush against their skin.
So we're going to introduce the brush to the dog while he's on his back.
Now, I'm not trying to get anything accomplished here as far as brushing him out and grooming.
What I want to do is just get him used to hearing that on his skin.
That's good.
Good, Benny.
Very good.
Now, you see Benny's very relaxed here.
That's good.
Okay, he's all done.
Only let him up when he's relaxed like this.
Okay.
And you'll see that this is going to be the high point of his day.
He's going to enjoy this because it's very relaxing once he understands what you're doing.
They're only scared when they don't know what you're doing.
Good.
Now, once you get your dog used to being handled in this manner, when you take him to the veterinarian to get an examination, the dog is used to being touched and handled, so he's less apt to fight and show signs of stress.
Same way with the groomer.
You take the dog into the groomer.
The dog is used to having his toes touched.
When he gets his nails clipped, he'll put up less of a fight, and it'll be less stressful on the dog, and of course, it'll be less expensive for the groom.
And also with the training, if your dog is accustomed to your touch, the training procedures will go by much quicker with less stress on the dog.
Okay, now we're going to enlist the help of another volunteer.
Benny's not fighting too much, but we have another puppy here, Sophie, I think is going to put up a little bit more of a fuss.
That way you'll be able to see the other end of the spectrum here.
This is not what you can expect to find in most puppies, a puppy that's this relaxed while he's being handled initially.
There we go.
Why don't you take Benny, and then we'll bring Sophie in.
Hey, Sophie.
Come on, Sophie.
This is Sophie.
She's a Karen Terrier.
She's about 10 or 11 weeks old.
Now we're going to do the same thing with her and see what her reaction is.
Okay, again, you put the dog on their back.
Oh, we're getting a little bit more fight already here.
Okay, Sophie.
Now you can see she's a little bit uncomfortable with that.
So, nope, we're going to start.
Nope.
Good.
You see her relax a little bit.
Good, Sophie.
Good.
I'm going to begin by taking one of her paws.
You see how she's reacting.
That's more par for the course for puppies though.
They'll fight a little bit more.
So we'll take her paw.
There, here we go.
Nope.
You settle her down.
Good.
Good, Sophie.
And then you start again.
You take that paw.
You can see she's pulling away.
You see her pulling away like that?
Now what I'm going to do, nope, I'm going to correct her.
Good.
And then I'm going to continue the examination.
It's important that you continue examining the dog until they are no longer fighting.
If the dog is fighting and you let the paw go, then all you've taught your dog was that if they fight you, then you're going to let go.
Okay?
So I'm just going to keep up with this until the dog doesn't care anymore.
This is called desensitizing them.
Good.
Now we're going to let her go.
Good.
That's a good girl.
And then you go to the next paw.
Now you see those back legs sticking up.
We'll settle her down.
Nope.
Good.
Good, Sophie.
That's a good girl.
Lots of praise when she gives a correct response.
Now we'll go over here to this paw.
You see the back legs go up a little bit.
Nope.
A little bit concerned about what I'm doing here.
Now I'm going to keep holding her, gently squeezing between her toes here to touch every part of her foot.
Good girl.
That's good.
Now again, when I let her go, good.
You see there's no stress.
Now I'm going to touch the hindquarters here.
And you see a little bit of stress there.
Okay.
She's a little concerned.
Nope.
Good.
Good girl.
See her settle down.
Good girl.
Nope.
She's trying to pull her foot away now.
No.
And you just insist on the touch until she relaxes.
Good girl.
Good.
Now she's still fighting a little bit.
It's hard to see, but you'll be able to feel the tension in the dog's muscles when she's fighting you there.
Nope.
Good.
Now watch when I let go, when she's finally ready.
Good.
Her paw just laps down.
Good girl.
Good.
Good girl.
Very good.
Okay.
We're all set.
Yeah.
That wasn't that bad, was it?
No, that was pretty easy.
So every day for a year, you said?
Every day until the dog is a year old, you should do that.
Don't do it when you're in a hurry.
Do it when you're watching TV or doing an activity where it's kind of quiet and you have a little time to spend with the dog.
Don't rush through it.
You want to go very slowly with this and get the dog accustomed to that touch so they learn that it's a positive thing, not something that they're going to learn to dread.
That's a good girl.
Thanks, Sophie.
Okay.
Now we're going to talk a little bit about caring for your dog's physical needs.
This is relatively simple.
The main thing you want to concern yourself is veterinary care.
Your dog should be up to date on its vaccinations, and if you suspect any health problems whatsoever, your dog should be in the veterinarian's office.
Okay.
Now what we can do at home is we have some basic equipment here.
Start from this end.
We have brushes and various combs.
We have a shedding blade, what we call a slicker brush, and a greyhound comb.
You can forget about these for right now.
What I find most effective for puppies up until they're four months is a brush similar to this.
You see, with the rubber backing and the steel pins with the rounded tips, it's a very quiet brush.
It gets your dog used to being combed and handled and his skin being brushed with the utensil in a real subtle manner.
So this is what I recommend for puppies up to four months of age.
All right.
Now while you're doing the brushing, you're going to have hair all over.
This is what I recommend for the owners as a lint brush.
We're all familiar with this.
We don't have to do much talking about that.
Now we also have some nail clippers here.
We have various kinds.
It's called the guillotine-type nail clipper, and we have the scissor-type or plier-type nail cutter.
Both of them are very effective, and it's more of a personal taste than anything else.
When you cut your dog's nails, make sure you have some styptic powder on hand just in case you cut the vein which goes through the nail.
It's called the quick.
The quick grows out into the nail, and the part of the nail you want to cut off is the part that extends past the quick.
If you do happen to cut the quick, it's going to bleed quite a bit, so you do need some styptic powder once again.
And we mentioned the latex rubber dog toys.
Make sure when you go into the pet store, the toy says latex right on it, and it's made specifically for dogs.
This is everything I need to groom Benny?
Yeah, I would consider this a basic kit.
There are some other issues like regular grooming.
Your dog should be groomed regularly, but unless you're skilled in the grooming procedures and the types of chemicals and shampoos that they use, I would say you leave that to the experts, the groomers.
Okay.
Okay?
But other than that, we have a couple other things here.
You see these bowls?
We got some heavy ceramic bowls.
The bowl should be heavy enough so it's difficult for the dog to tip them over.
Okay.
A lot of times puppies enjoy playing in their water, and when they do so, they'll tip the bowl over and saturate their cage or the kitchen floor or wherever you have it.
These bowls are nice and heavy.
Make sure it's not too high so that the dog can't put his head over into the bowl.
So this type of bowl here would be good for, say, a German Shepherd puppy or a larger breed.
For Benny, this is a little bit too high.
You want a shorter bowl for him.
Okay?
Now we also mentioned the leash, a three or four foot leash, and a buckle collar.
Your dog is too young for a choke or training collar at this point, so for right now, the regular buckle collar and the three foot leash will be fine.
I wanted to ask you about those bowls. We were thinking about getting another dog so he has a playmate.
Is it okay if they share bowls?
To be on the safe side, the dog should have separate bowls.
Okay.
You may have a problem with dominance where one dog may not allow the other dog to eat.
In that situation, you could have problems with that.
I would get a bowl for food and a bowl for water for each dog.
So you have four bowls for the two dogs.
Okay.
The only other piece of equipment we've left out in this segment would be the cage.
We spoke about the cage in prior segments, and the main thing to remember is that the cage is not used for punishment.
It's used to keep your dog as well as the home environment safe and secure.
And that wraps up the physical needs for the puppy under four months of age.
When desensitizing your puppy, remember, make sure you begin with the puppy in the rollover position.
Apply the correction if your puppy shows agitation.
Praise gently when your puppy relaxes.
And perform this exercise every day until your dog is one year of age.
Okay. I know what you're thinking. When do we just get to play with the puppies?
Let's lighten things up a little bit and take a look at puppy play activities.
Hi. We're back. We're doing some puppy play here.
We're going to talk about the games and activities you should be doing with the dogs.
One good game is a chase game with the ball.
Whenever you play with the dog with the toy, play it with the dog with the toy either at eye level or lower.
You don't want to have the dog jump up to retrieve a toy.
It looks kind of fancy and the dog gets some exercise.
But again, you don't want the dog jumping up to see what's in your hand.
Keep the toy at eye level or lower and throw it for the dog to chase.
Go ahead and put Benny on the floor here.
We'll see when you get him interacting a little bit.
Of course, if you have two puppies, that's another good game.
You have the puppies interacting with each other.
Another game that you play that's a real natural game for puppies to play is a chase game.
Take your dog in the backyard and have your dog chase you.
They like to play tag.
When the dog chases you, oftentimes the dog will run away so that you can chase them.
Don't play this part of the game.
When your dog runs away from you, you want to ignore the game.
You don't want it to be fun for the dog to run away.
When the dog runs away, you stop playing the game.
Then when the dog is interested in you again, run away. When the dog is chasing you, make some noises.
Call the dog to you.
That will encourage the dog to chase you.
Again, toys where you have the toy at eye level or lower, throw it for the dog to chase.
Let's see if we can get one of them to play.
Right, Sophie?
It's hard to compete with another puppy when you just got a little rubber toy.
There we go. That's good.
Good. Good.
They don't track very easily.
At this point, you want to keep the toy low.
Close to their face.
Let's try it one more time.
Another game you can play.
A lot of people like to play tug with the dog.
Of course, the dog likes to play tug as long as it doesn't get out of control.
By that, I mean the dog shouldn't be growling.
See how he's shaking his head? He shouldn't be actually tearing at it like that.
You want to stop the game by the time that happens.
The way you get the dog to relinquish control of the object is...
Here we go.
You take your forefinger and your thumb, and while the dog is pulling,
you reach over on both sides of the dog's face and squeeze the dog's teeth against the teeth,
and he'll drop it. Then you can start playing again.
Why do you want to stop it at that point?
Because you don't want the dog to start getting to the point where he shows outward aggression towards you.
There's no such thing as a game that's really not good to play with the dog, as long as you're both having fun.
But if the dog takes it too serious, or if they start getting too aggressive,
then you want to stop it right there.
Being too aggressive, what I mean by that, again, is growling,
or when they start ripping at the toy like that.
We don't really want the dog to do that.
So again, you have your forefinger and your thumb right under here, squeeze, and you can retrieve the object.
If the dog starts taking the aggression out on your hand, then we have that roll over.
Remember that earlier? No.
Okay, and then we can tell him, there we go. There you go, Benny. You can play with that.
That makes it clear to him that this is the thing he can play with, not your hand.
Good, good. Let's get him all riled up here.
And you pinch, and he lets go. That's good, Benny. Good, good.
So you do that whenever he gets too aggressive.
Now the toys that we have here, a soft latex rubber dog toy is an excellent toy for a dog.
You don't want to use raw hides or toys that are too hard.
The soft latex rubber is a really unique material that allows the dog to work his gums and his teeth.
And if the dog does happen to destroy it and chew parts of it, then the dog's body can process this rather easily.
Now I also have a t-shirt here.
Now we don't want the dog to get used to chewing on your things, especially clothing.
But if you make it clear to the dog that this is his stuff, these are his toys, then the dog will learn that everything else belongs to you.
Now if the dog does start approaching your things, he's playing with his t-shirt now, later on he may grab an article of clothing that belongs to you.
Then you give him that correction that we learned earlier with the loud noise behind his back.
And then once the dog is avoiding your article of clothing, then you introduce him to his again.
This is going to have a unique scent to it.
Both these toys are.
He's going to learn that these are the only things in the house that smell like they belong to him.
Everything else is your property.
Now a couple of odds and ends here that are concerns for a lot of puppy owners.
And I'm going to show you how to take care of those now.
Dogs that jump. Puppies like to jump on you.
Now owners are real concerned when the puppies are real young about the jumping.
I don't really want to do a whole lot with the jumping at this point.
The reason why puppies jump, of course, is to get your attention, not to ruin your clothes and get you dirty.
So when your dog jumps on you until the dog is four months old, all I want you to do is ignore it.
I don't want you to push the dog away.
We don't want to correct the dog for that.
We want the dog to enjoy coming up to us.
And again, they're jumping for attention.
So if they receive no attention for jumping, they're not going to jump.
Now it's a real passive method of training.
But again, I don't want to send the dog the message that I don't want him anywhere near me.
I don't want to step on his toes.
I've read in books where you step on the dog's back toes when they jump or you pinch their front toes when they jump up on you.
But what we're going to do is just ignore the dog.
They jump on you. You just stop petting them. Don't even look at them.
And then when the dog is back on all fours on the ground, then you give them the attention.
That's just something that I'm sure is a concern for a lot of people viewing from home.
All right.
And last but not least, we talk about socialization.
Your dog, your puppy should be vaccinated properly.
Take your dog to the vet.
That's the very first trip you should make after you bring the dog home is make an appointment with the veterinarian in your area and take your dog in for the proper vaccinations.
Once your dog is vaccinated, you can start socializing them with other dogs and other people.
It's very important that the dog is socialized at a young age like they are now.
Once your dog is six or seven or eight months, if you decide then you want to introduce them to small children or to other dogs or other animals,
they've developed fears already towards things that they're not accustomed to seeing.
So when they see something that's kind of strange to them,
for instance, dogs that are introduced to men with beards at an age of one year or more, they tend to be scared of those type of people.
Also with kids, a lot of times when puppies enter the home, there's no children in the home.
And then if the family decides to have children around the dog, the dogs become aggressive towards the children.
So at this age, this is when you socialize them with that type of thing.
So get your dogs out.
Again, they have to be properly vaccinated.
Take them out, get them used to car rides and visiting.
It's okay for them to do that?
Yeah, this is fine.
Dogs have been dealing with other dogs for a million years.
And this is what we were talking about earlier with the sharp teeth and the dogs learning how to bite and play so that they become social.
What happens is this play will get rougher and rougher.
And we may hear one of the dogs get real upset.
And then what they'll learn is that when it gets too intense, when they start biting too hard, it's no longer fun.
See, they started playing to have fun.
And then when it gets too rough, then they get hurt.
And they continue doing this, testing the limits until they're sure that a certain amount of pressure with their jaws is going to bring something bad.
And that's why you heard the growling. They're warning each other of what they're doing.
Okay.
When you play with your puppy, remember, use a soft latex rubber dog toy or an item that will be used specifically for the puppy's play time.
Don't teach your pup to jump up and grab the toy out of your hand.
Throw the toy at the puppy's eye level or lower.
Tug games are fine as long as you control the game and never chase your puppy during play time.
Okay, this concludes part one of the nipping, chewing, digging, garbage rating, won't come uncalled dog training manual.
Effective use of the material we've covered in this video will enable you to establish proper behaviors in your puppy.
Practice these simple techniques daily.
Be consistent, patient, and provide supervision at all times so that improper behaviors don't become habits.
And when you have to leave your puppy home alone, make sure he's secured safely in his cage.
Good luck and remember, we're here to help.
So instead of giving up, give us a call.
Well, thanks, Deb. It's been a pleasure working for you.
Thanks, Ryan.
I'm sure you'll do fine.
Yeah.
Hi, Jeff.
Hey, how's it going?
Okay, so you might have some questions or concerns.
That's why Brian Donovan set up a handy 1-800 line so that you can call him if you have any questions on the material covered in the video or any other dog training matters.
Please call 1-800-427-7844.
There is a consultation fee.
Please call for details.
And don't forget, part two is needed if your dog is over four months old.
That's right.
If he's four months old and he's jumping on your guests, he doesn't come uncalled and gosh darn it, he doesn't have any manners.
He's ready for part two.
That's right.
We'll cover the basic commands that you need to train your dog.
Basics like sit, stay, down, heel, and much more.
Brian's training methods in part two are just what you need.
You can order part two simply and easily.
Call 1-800-361-DOGS.
That's 1-800-361-DOGS.
And if you think your neighbor's dog is ill-mannered and needs some training himself, well, order one for them, too.
Take care.
Thank you.