.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
My daddy said, well I was just a little boy
Little belated, cause everybody makes a choice
And then I read, that the meek are gonna get a crown someday
I took it in, a little stuck, a little faded away
Cause it don't mean nothing till you find something that makes you wanna live
I think about you and I just can't get you out, out of my mind
I'm so deep in your love, keep it from me that I'm losing my mind
Live your life, you've got to lose it
And all the losers get a crown
I get down, he lifts me up, I get down, he lifts me up, I get down, he lifts me up, I get down
All I need is another day where I can't seem to get away
From the many things that drag me down, yeah
I'm just sure you've had a day like me where nothing seems to set you free
From burdens you can't carry all along
In your weakness he is stronger
In your darkness he shines through
When you're crying he's your comfort
When you're all alone he's carrying you
I get down, he lifts me up, I get down, he lifts me up, I get down, he lifts me up, I get down
Every time I tell the Lord, lift me up
This valley is so beautiful
Tim Curran is by far one of the most innovative surfers to come along in many years
His ability to perform aerial maneuvers on command has made him a standout on the world tour of surfing
Surfing to me is my life
And after the many years of surfing I just have such a love for it
And now I get paid to travel the world and have fun and see what God's created
My first aerial was when I was 12 years old and I was going down the line
I had more speed than I ever have
And it just so happened that the backwash hit the wave right as I hit the lip and it threw me so high
I don't know how it just launched me way up in the air
And I remember being up in the air looking down going, oh my gosh, I am in the air
And my feet are perfectly on the board
And I'm flying and I come down and I eat it and I just remember coming up just going
That is the best feeling in surfing
I was just like, that's it
Tim had the most supportive family that any surfer could ask for
They not only introduced him to the ocean but also to the maker of the waves
I accepted Jesus into my heart when I was five years old
And basically it was my mom and dad sitting down with me one night on the couch
And just telling me all that God offers and how he loves me so much
And how if I accept him into my heart that I'll go to heaven and everything is fine
And when you are a little kid you are just like, yeah, that sounds cool man, win-win situation
And I remember they were like, we don't want to force it upon you so go and just come back and think about it
And I went into my room for about five minutes and I'm like, yeah, it sounds too easy
And I went out and prayed with them
And ever since then I've just tried to be the best I can and live for God
Surfing, money, everything that I have comes nowhere close to the feeling that God gives me when I'm right on with them
And so it's awesome
If you have the opportunity to feel something that's better than anything out there
You might as well try it and see for yourself
He'll do things in your life that you'll know he's real, you know, so many things
Thank you
Music
Start, start and come back
Changing what you know
Every time forever
Every now and never
Everyone together
I'm gonna be a flower
We'll step into a future
Tom Curran started surfing professionally in 1982 and went on to win three world titles
He is one of the most popular surfers of all time
I believe that God's hand was in my life and that's how I did well, that's what I believe
And even when I kind of, you know, wasn't really following Bible and things like that
There's still, you know, some of the residual good that was in the beginning that, you know, carried me through
My basic belief was in God and, you know, Jesus and the Bible
But I didn't really like go out and surf for God or things like that
So I was kind of a little bit divided
Tom went through some tough times in his life and as a result he turned to God for help
And developed a deeper relationship with his Creator
For me the turning point kind of happened when I was driving in the car listening to the radio and heard a preacher
Plus, you know, just going to some meetings and stuff
There is like a change, you know, you feel different
You know, it's not just your emotions playing tricks on you and stuff
It does take work but there has to be some kind of a, you know, changing direction I think
I'm just kind of a witness or whatever that even if you mess up you have another chance
So that's kind of my story I guess
For all the sin that lives in me
You took an arrow to set me free still
What I do I don't want to do and so goes the story
What you had in mind
What we seek will find shine show me grace
A little more than I can give
A little more than I deserve
Under this holiness I can deserve
A little more than I can give
A little more than I deserve
Tita is Brazil's top female surfer and is rated one of the top ten in the world
She's small but her size doesn't stop her from charging the big waves of the Hawaiian and Tahitian islands
I'm from Brazil, the north
I love Hawaii
After Hawaii I love Tahiti, Topo, it's life
Oh, go for the reef
Tita is from an extremely poor family
Before her mother died, when she was only five, she told her to do one thing really well
Tita's one thing was surfing
She learned to surf on a door that her dad cut for her in the shape of a surfboard
She surfed on that door for five years and started winning contests on it until she was able to buy a real board
Tita tomorrow is getting that last ride, a 7.75, the highest wave of the heat, brings home the bacon
Through Tita's professional surfing career, she's been able to pull her family out of poverty
My family loves me, thanks to me
Tita tells the young people of Brazil who look up to her to turn away from drugs and instead to turn to Jesus
One day Jesus talked to me, you know, no he is, neither he
I think it's Jesus, I'll show you
Is there any running road, it's a big town
Is there any person known, who will show up
Calling out a running name, but there's no sound
Running letters in the snow, it's all in brown
It's all in brown, it's all in brown
Pain in my heart and my eyes
I went out of the world
Why feel like death to me
Brian grew up in La Jolla, California
Through his pro surfing career, he has been able to travel all over the world
One of my closest friends is Toshi Oyama from Japan
He just makes me laugh and I was able to go and visit him in Japan when I went over there for a surf contest
Hello, Jesus lives who
California's sun is shining
So we dash every road up through the house with everybody outside
Gonna get down like we did the day before
50 more people peeping in the door
Team against team, let's even the score
If the 50 people out there, we got room for 50 more
And we're moving, we're moving, we're moving
We're fresh like salsa and we're bent like jubin
The aquarium's cracked, throw a shell in the deck
Protect your neck, super tool strike back
We want to talk, better be a big lover
So we play the sky, and it makes a feel better
God's got love for us, so we got love for you
It's your life, so what you want to do
So when we got to the surf contest, the waves were really small and blown out
And so the conditions weren't the best
But being in Japan was so much fun and seeing a different culture is just amazing
And then we were able to stop off at Hiroshima on our way back
And learn a little bit more about what went on there
When I was young, I heard about Hiroshima
I heard fear of death
But after I believed Jesus, Jesus sent me free from fear of death
When Brian was 17, he began to wonder
If there was more to life than what he was experiencing
I was checking out this church where they were giving away free pizza
And they were singing songs
And I was just like, what are these weird people doing singing songs about God?
And I didn't understand one thing they were talking about
But as I'd come home from a party or being with my friends or whatever in high school
And I was by myself about to go to sleep
I just started thinking a little bit about what I'd heard that week at church
I'd been thinking about the songs they were singing to some God that loved me
And I started to realize that he did love me
After I gave my life to God, he gave me my pro surfing career
And I won a contest and I started getting sponsors
And all these things were happening
But more importantly, I had this peace in my life
I just had a fulfillment in my heart
And that was amazing
And I started to see things differently in my life
I started to see people differently
When there was someone who was rich
I sometimes would look at them like they were poor
Because they didn't have God
Or I'd see some homeless guy in the street
And instead of just looking at them like, oh, he's a bum
I'd start seeing him as someone who God loves
I don't know, things were changing
I could see what people needed in their lives
And I'd want to fulfill it
Where before I could care less
But I started to care and it was fun giving
Over these past seven years
Say now that you're sorry
I forgive you, I promise to restore now
The order that we once had before this all came
I'm down now, it's so useless
And we're wasting the organs we've been giving
I miss you, even when I'm with you
Drifting away, don't drift away
Now together we are stronger
Can't see hope but it lasts longer
Bones on trees and woods that sting
Faithful are the ones
In recent years, some of the world's best surfers
Have come from Florida
Among them is C.T. Taylor
I think God made waves for surfers
I think that he knew before there was even surfers
That there was going to be surfing
I sense God when I'm out surfing
And I enjoy God when I'm out surfing
Like I'm just thankful
I started surfing at Playa Linda Beach
And Cocoa Beach in Florida
And I just had like good friends that would take me around
That were older and you know
Would drag me out when the waves were too big for me
And tell me what to do and stuff pretty much
But that's really all the help I had
I just really learned just being out there
And just having fun
And just was determined to be good
I always wanted to be a professional surfer
It was kind of my dream
I came home one day and had all these messages on my answer machine
Like 15 people had called me
And I could tell something pretty big
Pretty major happened because of how excited they were for me
And then I found out that I got a cover shot
C.T. aggressively pursues his surfing career
But the most important aspect of C.T.'s life is his relationship with God
He was only 14 years old
Some of his friends invited him to a meeting
That changed his life forever
I went to this Bible study
It was like a surfer fellowship
A few of my friends were there
And it wasn't like I was radically saved from some kind of drug addiction
Or anything like that
It kind of almost seemed uneventful
But I did feel that tug on my heart
Like this is right
This is like God is real
He's not fake or anything
He's not something in my imagination
He's not something that people have made up
And I just really felt his truth
Really it
So I gave my life to him
I asked him to forgive me of my sins and come to my heart
It's really that simple
From that point, then I just sought God
I just would read my Bible and pray
And just try to do my best
To see how God's never took His hand off me
Like He's just always been there
I've been there down
Hey hey
What do you say
Have you even understood
What's the book that's at home
I've been there down
Hey hey
What do you say
Does it even understand
The simple things that go
I've been there down
Hey hey
What do you say
Does it go away on the highway
And that seems wrong to me
Let's jump into a car
And drive to places we can't find
Let's run away
Or maybe get a job
Stick around, let's settle down
So I know just what I'm doing
I've been there down
I've been there down
True to stuff, just what I know
Never loved my feelings so again
Again
Again
I've been there down
Hey hey
What do you say
What you feel in your mouth with soul
What I'm wrong with
I've been there down
Hey hey
What do you say
No one likes to live in sorrow
Maybe tomorrow
Let's jump into a car
And drive to places they can't find
John Carper is one of the top surfboard shapers in the industry.
Many of the world's best surfers exclusively use J.C. Hawaii surfboards.
John and his family host a popular Bible study in their home in Hawaii.
Several years ago though, John found himself in a deep emotional pit.
The more I got successful, the more people were saying I was cool.
Actually the more empty I was feeling.
And I went through I suppose like a deep depression.
I thought about myself, looked at myself and I go I'm nothing.
This is, everybody thinks I'm something, but I'm nothing.
Inside I was hollow.
John remembered some friends who had told him about Jesus years before.
He decided to give God a chance.
I kept going across this one little old church and it said Jesus loves you on the top.
And I kept on going, well not that kind of church.
That's not the kind I want to go to.
I finally ended up going in there and I walked in and people were playing tambourines and singing.
And I had no idea about this stuff.
And up there on the stage was a guy singing. His name was Ernie Cruz.
He was the biggest, strongest man in Hawaii.
I hadn't seen him for years, but I remember seeing how mean this guy was and vicious and bad and tough.
I kind of thought that was cool then.
But he was up there playing his guitar and he was crying and singing songs that Jesus,
I don't think anything is affecting me like that in my life.
And I just go, this is it. I'm here.
Whatever is going on here, I want this and I want as much of it as I can get.
And I started coming.
It took me a while to break down the barriers because I had a lot of pride.
God had his way and I gave my heart to the Lord then.
He's still working on me. It's not easy for me.
I'm still kind of rough on the edges, but he just brought me to a better life.
That's all I can say. A better quality life.
Thanks for watching!
Skip started surfing in the late 50s and was part of the genesis of California surfing culture.
As a shaper, he is a leader in the new era of longboarding.
In my early days, it was just kind of going surfing and having fun.
I actually got out of the competition aspect of it before it really became a professional circuit
where money was involved and so forth.
That period I call the BC period, which was before cash.
Skip saw many of his friends fall prey to traps like drug and alcohol abuse.
His life was headed in the same direction until he took a walk along a deserted beach in France.
Took this long walk down and I was just bawling like a baby, reaching out to God.
I came back a different person. I came back up the beach.
I had a new relationship with him and I tried to pursue that ever since then.
I know about waves because I experienced it well.
I've had enough time with Jesus now that I've experienced him and I've seen him working.
I've seen the miracles he does.
A lot of people probably think that life of a Christian is really boring
and goody goody and there's no fun.
But I tell you, there's more fun in life with God than there ever was partying and carrying on.
Why wouldn't you just want to say, yes, come into my life and help me along?
Someone that I know, late one night, crying at my window.
Most of all you remind me of the sun, shining your light on me and everyone.
Where the wind beats the sea and where you bear me, I hear the sun.
It's a different friend, shining like the sun, blowing like the wind.
In the mid-70s, Chris O'Rourke was rising in the ranks of the surfing world,
beating California's top professionals at the age of 15.
Young Joy Berand was also growing in recognition, but after seeing Chris surf, his goals seemed unattainable.
I wanted to be the best surfer in California and I remember thinking, this guy is better than I am.
I mean, he won the US Open three times in a row and he was a promoter's dream.
Everybody wanted a piece of Chris.
He was my main subject and I could tell he was going to go places.
He was by far the best surfer I had ever seen from California.
In 1976, we had a very memorable large south swell and actually Jerry Lopez came and surfed Windensee during that swell.
He saw Chris O'Rourke and also referred to him as the best California surfer he had ever seen.
Chris grew up surfing Windensee and La Jolla, which is known for producing great surfers.
Windensee also had the reputation of being one of the most localized surf spots in the United States.
There was a lot of localism and if anybody hassled the local, they'd definitely get ganged up upon.
It's just like gangs, inland gangs, but it was the gang at the beach.
Chris had a reputation as being that ringleader.
And of course this all goes back to the Pump House Gang back in the 60s when Butch Van Arsdale and that whole crew were notorious for upholding the localism atmosphere around Windensee.
We were like a pack of hyenas and we would shred or terrorize anybody who threatened the pack.
And Chris was very vocal in that.
I mean I can remember times where Chris and I and some of our buds would have tipped over a Volkswagen van and set it on fire because the guys weren't from La Jolla.
One of Chris's closest friends was Brew Briggs, another top surfer from Windensee.
Brew became a strong believer in Christ and began to boldly share the message of God's love with everyone at Windensee.
But they wouldn't respond and it was then that I realized that it isn't just my words they're going to respond to.
It's got to be God. It's got to be the Lord working in their lives.
And I didn't stop telling them, but I went into a lot of prayer.
Chris O'Rourke was one of the people who heard Brew share the message about Jesus.
However, he wouldn't respond because he wasn't willing to let God change his life.
When Chris was 18 years old, his seemingly perfect life came to a sudden stop when he returned from a surf contest in Australia.
His wife noticed after he came back that he had a lump on his neck and basically that started the whole scenario where he went to the hospital, found out what it was.
It was cancer. It was Hodgkin's disease and I think it was unfortunately at a pretty advanced stage.
Chris was told by doctors that he had only three months to live.
He started chemotherapy treatments and began a long and hard fight against cancer.
I remember thinking, and what else would you expect from a silly, selfish surfer at 17?
But I just remember thinking, boy that's a tough break for him, but it's a good break for me.
He had a good sense of humor about his condition, but he also I think initially especially identified with,
first of all his surfing ability and his personality and his appearance secondly and had that all taken away from him.
With death at his doorstep, Chris prayed with his friend, Brew, and asked God to forgive him and change his life.
Chris was like going, how do you know you're saved? He knows he's dying. He knows he's got a cancer and he wants to make sure.
I said, read the Bible.
And even though he'd accepted Jesus, when he started reading the Bible, I remember the day after he read a lot of the Bible,
he said, Brew, I read the Bible and you know what? I've been bad.
And I said, yeah, but he's died for you, that you can be saved.
But then we met Chris on the beach one day, all us kids, and he was all, oh my gosh, he's going to say something.
He was all, hey, I want you guys to come to church with us on Sunday, me and my wife.
And we were just like, okay. And we were so stoked that he even looked at us and talked to us.
He could have said, hey, I want you guys to jump off the cliff on Sunday at 3, okay, great, we'll be there.
And then like two nights later, he invited us over to his house.
Like man, we're at Chris at the workhouse, we're looking at the walls, there's pictures of serfs, trophies, we're like, oh my gosh.
And his wife starts going, so have you guys made Jesus your Lord and Savior?
And we're like, what? What do we do? Yeah, whatever you tell us to do, we'll do.
Not really carrying the implications or anything, you know.
We were just, we wanted to be cool, like Chris was cool, you know.
Whatever he was into, we wanted to be into.
And then they started talking through the night more and more, Chris and his wife.
And it was really radical. I remember distinctly thinking at first, I'm in awe of this person and this place and where I'm at.
And it switched to like, I was just talking to a normal person and all of a sudden I was in awe of who he was talking about.
Because Chris was like the most revered and respected guy.
And he's telling me, now who he respects and reveres is Jesus.
And he has this relationship with Jesus, he was trying to explain to us.
He didn't know much at the time either, he was having a hard time articulating all the intricacies of what had happened in his life.
He'd only been a Christian a couple of weeks, you know.
And he was just telling us and he was trying to get it across to us.
And the words weren't probably correct in everything he was saying.
He didn't have a working knowledge of the Bible and all that.
But we got the point, we all just went.
We all felt, we said, I remember we all looked at each other and went, this is weird, man.
I feel like we're floating right now.
And his wife saw, that's the Holy Spirit.
We're all, whoa, that's cool, what is it?
You know, we thought it was a magic trick.
He revealed to me that he was a Christian and that how bad he wanted me to become one.
He shared it like he wanted to tell me about some incredible secrets that he had found.
It was like, hey man, come on, you know, it's great, I want you to have it.
Then we went to church Sunday, the pastor gave an altar call.
Didn't know that's what it was called at the time.
You know, he said all the things that Chris was trying to say, he was able to articulate them all.
And it all made sense, you know.
God sent his son Jesus and the world turned against him and Jesus died for our sins.
He just laid it out, real simple, in about half an hour.
And we all went, right, let's go forward.
So I went forward, got my little beginner Bible, and went forward the next 12 weeks just to make sure.
And then finally that pastor at that church was like, you don't have to keep coming up.
I'm like, I want to.
He's like, oh, you can, man, you can just keep coming.
He had lost all his hair and he was just basically skin stretched over a skeleton.
But when I walked in, the presence of God was so strong in the room
and I didn't know he had become a Christian.
But I knew, somehow I knew God was in there.
And I could barely stand in the room.
My knees began to shake.
And I looked at him and he looked at me with those big blue eyes, you know, that he had.
And he just said, bro, I'm worried about you.
I thought, you got it all backwards, man.
You're the one dying, you know.
I should be worried about you.
And he goes, no, don't worry about me.
I'm going to paradise.
I've got eternal life in Jesus.
And right now you've got nothing but hell to look forward to.
And bro, I love you and I want you to know the King.
I want you to know the Savior.
And he grabbed a hold of my hand.
I could barely take it.
The spirit of God was so strong in the room.
And I went, whoa, if I stay in here much longer, I'm going to burst, you know.
And I just sort of backpedaled out of the room and got the heck out of that hospital.
And as great as it was to see Chris at that moment, because I hadn't seen him in maybe a year and a half, two years,
I was terrified of what I was confronted with in terms of knowing that that God he was talking about was real.
And I could feel him knocking on the door in my heart.
A lot of kids were being drawn to Chris and Chris's relationship with Christ and Chris reaching out to kids.
But this Chris Aarons fellow, he knew full well that Chris wasn't going to be able to handle all these kids coming up
and asking questions.
So Chris stepped in, Aarons, Chris O'Rourke's friend, he was an older guy,
and he started doing formal kind of Bible studies and answering all our questions.
I remember one night in particular, there were probably, I would say, 15 of them sitting around the house.
And I looked around and there were these 14-year-old to 16-year-old kids holding each other and crying and saying that they loved each other.
And it was tremendous, the change that came over that group.
He started getting really sick. He had a couple operations.
I remember he had one operation where they put a plate in his head and they said,
you know, you'll probably never walk again, you'll never surf again. And sure enough, he did surf again.
I remember his first wave and he just pulled through right hooker.
He actually got a little tube and just screamed out, praise God I can surf again.
And he got better and better and better at it and he became much better, I would say, than the average surfer.
He would grab onto our legs after he'd catch a wave. We'd wait for him on the inside.
He'd kick out and I'd say, OK, grab my leg and I'd paddle him back out.
And he would just hold on and you'd just be towing him out.
And here was this guy who was on top of the world, the legendary surfer and everything like that.
Had everything going for him, beautiful wife. He just had a baby. He was, you know, just ripping.
He was the number one surfer in the state. He was going to Australia for contests.
And here he was just totally degraded to this position where now he had to grab onto my foot to paddle out.
And he would just surf and he could barely do it. I knew it just killed him to see everybody ripping and going fast.
That was really painful. It was just like, whoa.
And yet in the midst of all that, his reaction wasn't to destroy and be really mean and bitter,
but he developed a relationship with Christ, you know, made peace with God,
and then went out and brought a bunch of kids and showed them God too, you know, which is pretty much an incredible legacy.
He told me one time, he said, he'd read the Bible where it said, talking about Jesus, it said,
by his stripes we were healed. And he said, well, maybe by my pain some people can be healed.
It's just a little pain, but maybe by my pain some people can be healed.
I can remember after Chris was converted, and I had been converted as well,
I can remember Chris paddling up to complete strangers, guys that we would have terrorized, you know, several years before.
And just shaking their hand and say, hey bro, what's your name? Do you know that the Lord loves you?
And it's like, I saw Chris really come alive in those days.
He was just really a changed person when it came to localism.
It was hard for him because he's like, gosh, I want to do something. I want to say something.
I want to, but no, you know, no, I'm not going to do that.
Joey Baran was now a star in the surfing world and had become known as California's best surfer.
Somebody that Chris O'Rourke really didn't like at all was Joey Baran.
Of all things I remember from my pro career, one of the clearest memories was the plane ride with Chris O'Rourke
because it was much larger than my surfing career. It had to do with God's calling on my life.
Joey Baran was everything that Chris had been, which was proud and arrogant and going to set the world on fire
and look out, I'm coming through, cut from the same cloth.
And Chris was sick and Joey wasn't. Joey was a little bit younger and he didn't like it one little bit.
I remember not so much exactly his words, but he began to share his faith in Jesus Christ with me.
It was a 747, a full 747. I think there's about 250 seats on one of those things.
And as God would have it, those two were going to sit right next to each other for 17 hours
or whatever the plane ride takes. It was a direct flight to Australia.
And at this time, it wasn't anything I wanted to hear. It was just the whole world revolves around Joey Baran.
I'm the California kid. You're dying. You need Jesus. I'm not and I don't.
And that was sort of my perspective. But Chris was right there and he was just sharing and sharing things
about the Lord and what God had done in his life through his cancer and all this stuff.
And pretty typical, I was getting convicted. And I remember I was like, I've got to get away from this guy.
And I got up from my seat. I was like, I've got to use the bathroom.
And I got up from my seat and I walked to the back of the plane. I'm looking for an empty seat.
It just was not an empty seat on this flight. There was nowhere for me to sit except next to Chris O'Rourke.
And so I'm like, oh, what am I going to do? This guy is going to give me the Jesus wrap all the way to Australia.
This is like an 18-hour flight to Australia with a stopover in Hawaii.
I'm like, I'm stuck next to a guy who's dying telling me about Jesus.
And I mean, it was like the last situation I wanted to be in.
And I ended up having to sit in that seat. And I remember Chris just, he wouldn't let up.
It wasn't rude, but he just kept, well, what are you going to do, Joey, when you're not the best surfer in California?
I don't know. I haven't really thought about it. Those are the type of questions he was asking me.
He's like, has it all been fulfilling for you that you've gone on? I'm like, I don't know. Why are you asking me that?
It was that kind of stuff. And then I remember him asking me to put lotion on his back because chemo dries out your skin.
And I just remember just like, oh, man. I was like, it's kind of weird. I don't want to do that.
But O'Rourke took his shirt off and I put this like, you know, just basic lotion, you know, moisturizing lotion on his back.
And I just remember when I like touching his back that it was like touching a dead person.
I mean, his body really was just so stiff. And it was like the Lord was making me touch eternity.
I was touching death and I was touching the grave and I never had before.
And we got to Australia and a day later he collapsed on the scaffolding.
He was really close to dying and he knew it. And I was sort of in a state of denial. I didn't want to believe it.
And he said, Lynn, I'm really going to die, but it's OK. And I said, how could it be OK? How could it be OK?
All you've known these last few years is pain and suffering and cancer. And he kind of smiled.
I thought, why is he smiling? And he said, Lynn, these have been the happiest years of my life since I found Jesus.
I really think if I hadn't gotten cancer, I wouldn't have found Jesus.
So getting cancer is the best thing could ever have happened to me.
And these last four years that I've had cancer have been the best years of my life.
Before that I was dead. And now even with all this pain, he said, I'm alive and I know the Lord and I know where I'm going.
And it just makes life wonderful.
Chris died in 1981. His family and friends gathered together and spread his ashes in the waves at Women's Street.
I've not seen localism. I've seen glimpses of it, but I have not seen it manifest itself to the extent that it did in those old days after Chris got saved.
There's some guys who are still trying to carry the torch and be the big bullies down there, but for the most part, the Lord broke that thing in the back.
Peter King and I and a couple other kids, we stopped it. I mean, when it came to be our turn for the localism thing,
I think over time that I can look at it, Chris' message must have had a really big input because that's where it stopped.
He had a major impact on my life and coming to Jesus Christ because two years later when I gave my life to Christ,
I could look back at that divine appointment on that plane with Chris O'Rourke and know that the Lord's hand was in it.
And I praise God for Chris' faithfulness. And in a lot of ways, I feel like even to this day,
what God is doing through my life is an extension of what he did through Chris O'Rourke's life.
And that's what the Church of Jesus Christ is all about. The fruit goes on and on.
And Chris may have been in eternity now for 15, 18 years, whatever, since he died,
but his fruit goes on even through my life and other people's lives like mine.
And I praise God for it and I thank God for Chris O'Rourke.
We can't see God, but we can see how he has changed the lives of these surfers.
God is able to change each one of our lives as well. He loves us more than we can possibly imagine.
Jesus said, For God so loved the world that he gave his only Son,
so that whoever believes in him would not perish, but have eternal life.
He also said, I am the way, the truth, and the life, and that no one comes to the Father but by me.
There is only one way that leads to heaven, and that is by believing in Jesus Christ,
who died on the cross so our sins may be forgiven.
He also rose from the dead three days later to prove that he has victory over death and that his words were true.
If you are ready to trust God with your life, ask him to forgive you for the things you've done wrong
and ask Jesus to come into your heart and change your life forever.
I knew the wind was here
And then I met a man
From a very strange and distant land
He took me by the hand
He told me to draw near
And now I'm better off this time
You know I'm better off this time
And everything is starting over
Because he is now the master of my life
So long ago, since I ran away
But you're always near to me
I drift, I fall, and I scream, I need you
But you always pick me up
You always pick me up
So tight, so slow, forgive me
But the road you walk, it breaks my heart
The road you walk, it breaks my heart
It's been shown in Tahiti, it's been shown in Portugal, it's been shown in Japan
We took a team over there with Skip Fry and a bunch of the other professional surfers over to Japan
and held outreaches there
And now we're praying about going to Australia and New Zealand
Hopefully in February, so if you could be praying for us with that
Also, Wakanawater also has a surf camp that we've been doing for about seven years
Where we have students ages 10 through 18
They come from all over the country to San Diego, California
And we teach them how to surf
We teach them also about God through the Bible, through the Word
And we're really excited about that as well
And we have a clip here that we're about to show you
Some of the footage of the surf camps
And another thing before you see that
That we wanted to mention to you is
To please just pray for Wakanawater as often as you can
We really covet your prayers
And another thing that Wakanawater does is
We have Let Go Girls conferences
Where we have high school girls come to hotels
And teach them about dating and purity and self-image
And some issues that they deal with
So anyway, here's some footage from our surf camps
And God bless you
I have nothing you need
Just a lot to hide
So why am I still here
With you by my side
All I do is mess up
Do the blue rocking instead of shining light
Darkness shines through me
Don't wanna talk about it
Just wanna start it up
I'm not as bad as you
Things I do alright
At least that's what I said
Try to tell myself
Got it under control
I don't need your help
Try to do the right thing
End up doing wrong
Don't deserve this life
Or even write this song
The more I think of you
The less I think of myself
I don't wanna talk about it
Just wanna start it up
I'm not as bad as you
Things I do alright
At least that's what I said
Try to tell myself
Got it under control
I don't need your help