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Welcome to home time. I'm Dean Johnson.
On today's program, we're going to show you some typical cabinet installations.
Like kitchen cabinets, a bathroom vanity,
and cabinets in these two alcoves.
But before we get involved with this installation,
let's show you how these kitchen cabinets were planned for, designed, and installed.
.
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This video is just one in a library of instructional programs designed to assist the viewer
in working on a wide range of home improvement projects.
And before we begin our program,
I want to explain how you can best make use of this educational system.
First off, you should watch the tape all the way through
to get an idea of the methods, the steps, and the terminology we use.
To help familiarize yourself with the terms,
we've included a glossary in the project guide.
Then you should review the tape again.
Only this time, check with your project guide to determine the tools and materials
appropriate to your project.
Then take the project guide to your local building supply dealer or home center.
The people there will be able to assist you, answer questions,
and direct you to what you need.
With today's tools and materials,
remodeling a kitchen is no longer outside the realm of the do-it-yourselfer.
And if you work step by step, taking your time, following the guidelines,
you'll get the professional-looking results that you want.
Not to mention the savings and the satisfaction of doing the work yourself.
The tools Peggy and I will be using for our kitchen remodeling project are
a tape measure,
a two-foot and four-foot level,
a hammer,
an electric drill,
a countersink drill bit,
two Jorgensen wood clamps,
a saber saw,
a belt sander,
and a scribing compass.
Some of your tool needs can be handled at your local equipment rental shop.
Depending on the extent of your kitchen remodeling project,
a permit may be required.
So be sure and check with your local building department to find out what codes
and permits apply to your renovation.
Before we start, we just want to remind you that no matter how simple or extensive
your project is, be safety conscious.
If you're in a hurry or if you think you can get by without taking the proper
safety precautions, you're just asking for problems.
What we recommend is that you work at a comfortable pace,
wear proper clothing and protection,
and follow the manufacturer's guidelines using their tools, materials, and equipment.
Planning and design is the first and most important step in the process
of remodeling a kitchen.
It involves a careful evaluation of the existing kitchen to establish what works
and what needs to be changed,
the goal being a more efficient, attractive, and workable space
that fits the budget and lifestyle of the occupants.
Then make a floor plan of your existing kitchen.
Your floor plan should include the location of the doors and windows,
the swing direction of the doors,
mark for the lighting and receptacles, and the plumbing hookups.
Also include the dimensions of the space, both the floor dimensions
and the particular wall areas, with all of your measurements converted into inches.
With all this accomplished, you're ready to design your new kitchen.
In planning the layout for an efficient kitchen,
it's to your advantage to locate the stove, refrigerator, and sink in a triangle.
Commonly called the work triangle, this arrangement will save a lot of time and energy
in accomplishing kitchen tasks provided the three elements or points of the triangle
are fairly equidistant.
Now to illustrate this work triangle, we've drawn up the four most common kitchen floor plans.
The U shape, the L shape, the galley, and the kitchen that we'll be working on,
which has an island and a peninsula.
Working with scaled drawings of the cabinets and appliances on graph paper
is a good way to visualize your layout.
Now let's take a look at where the work triangles ended up.
In the U shaped kitchen, we put the stove here, the sink here, and the refrigerator there.
So the triangle looks like that.
In the L shaped kitchen, the triangle looks a little bit different.
And here in the galley, again, there's easy access to everything.
Now many designers feel it for convenience.
The proper distance between each of the main kitchen task centers should be between 4 and 6 feet,
with a combined total distance between 12 and 22 feet.
For our project kitchen, we'll be installing an island cooktop as well as a peninsula of cabinets.
The sink is located on the peninsula, giving us a very efficient work triangle.
We'll also be providing counter space for each activity center on both sides of the sink and dishwasher,
next to the oven and next to the refrigerator.
With your floor plan established, you can now begin your kitchen project,
ordering the cabinets, gathering your tools, and scheduling the work.
And if your project is anywhere near as extensive as ours,
you'll also need to plan ahead for convenient meal preparation
and storage accommodations for the duration of the work.
So with all the preliminary work done and all the old cabinets and appliances removed,
we're ready to mark for the location of the studs and the new cabinet dimensions.
Now in preparation for the cabinet installation, we've coated all the walls with a primer,
which acts as a vapor barrier behind the cabinets.
To determine the location of studs, I begin by making soundings,
tapping along the wall with a hammer until I hear a dull thud.
Once a stud's located, we can identify it by driving a finishing nail through the drywall till it hits.
Then drive again to find the edge.
And measure three-quarters of an inch in to determine the center of the stud.
From there, I measure over 16 inches and drive another finishing nail to find the next one.
The rest of the studs follow the 16-inch on-center increments,
so we'll follow the same procedure around the room, marking their locations on the wall.
The next step is to determine the height level of the base cabinets,
and to do that, we first want to find the highest point of the floor.
So we'll set a four-foot level on a straight board, sliding it along next to the wall, watching the bubble here.
So with our floor, the high point is in the corner, and it drops off just a little bit as it goes toward the doorway.
Once the high point on the floor has been located, we can measure up 34-and-a-half inches from that point
and make a mark here on the corner on both walls.
This indicates the overall height of the base cabinets.
The countertop will add another inch-and-a-half to this height.
Now for the upper cabinets, I'll measure down 30 inches from the soffit along the wall for the height of the wall cabinet.
If there wasn't a soffit, then we'd measure up from our 34-and-a-half inch mark a standard 19-and-a-half inches for our upper cabinets.
This gives 18 inches for adequate reach and counter space.
Should you have a kitchen cabinet located above a stove, then you should allow 30 inches between the cabinet and the cooktop.
It's very important that you make accurate measurements when you're ordering your cabinets,
especially when the combined widths of the cabinets will span the entire distance from one wall to the opposite wall.
Before we install all the cabinets, the doors have been removed.
This makes it possible for us to secure the cabinets by clamping the face frames together as we place them.
I'm taping numbers to the inside of the doors and their corresponding cabinets to make later placement easier.
To store the doors, I'm stacking them back-to-back and face-to-face.
This will keep the hinges from scratching the surface.
It's also a good idea to have a container on hand to consolidate all the screws.
Kitchen cabinets come in a wide range of styles, including country, colonial, traditional, and contemporary.
And they come in three types, wall cabinets, base cabinets, and special-use cabinets, like our oven-mounted cabinet here
and these lazy Susan corner cabinets, both the upper and the base cabinet.
Cabinets can be purchased in pre-manufactured units, or you can order them custom-made to your own specifications.
A good tip, though, when purchasing pre-finished cabinets is to order some of the same stain that was used on the cabinets
for later touch-up and any additional trim or molding.
We'll be installing the wall cabinets in this section first, and then the base cabinets.
This will give us a little more room to maneuver and decrease the likelihood of nicking the base cabinets as we work.
We'll start here with the corner cabinet.
These are typically the most difficult to install, simply because you're dealing with two adjoining walls
that may not be plumber square with one another.
With the cabinet positioned to the marks, now we'll check for plumb.
And it looks like we're off just a little bit, so we'll shim it out a little bit at the bottom.
It's best to place the shim as close to a stud as possible.
We purchased these shims in small bundles at our local home center.
Perfect.
The placement of this first cabinet is critical.
Once we establish this is plumb and square, all the succeeding upper cabinets will be aligned to it with the face frames flush.
To fasten the cabinet to the wall, we're driving screws through the hanging rail and into the studs.
I'm using a cordless drill with a special countersink drill bit that both drills the hole and bevels the surface for a flush fit.
Then anchor the cabinet with two and a half inch Phillips head screws.
We're not too concerned with the joint between the cabinet and the soffit.
If there are any gaps or deviations, they'll be covered later by a strip of cove molding.
With the adjoining cabinet aligned and flush, I'll use two Jorgensen clamps to temporarily hold the two cabinets together.
Then I'll drill through the two face frames and then the hanging rail.
C-clamps will also work for this purpose, but when using C-clamps, you'll need to insert soft wood blocks to prevent marring the frame with the jaws of the clamp.
With the clamps tight, the next thing I'll do is drill through pilot holes for the screws.
In drilling, it's critical that the holes are centered in the face frame and bored straight.
The screws we'll be using to attach the face frames are narrow shafted screws, and to make the driving easier, we'll coat the surface with paraffin.
Okay, now to secure the hanging rail to the wall.
A good tip is to drill at the hinge location. This way the screw head will be hidden by the hinge.
From here on, it's just a matter of following the same procedure, aligning and clamping the face frames, making sure the cabinets are flush with one another, shimming if necessary.
Here's a tip if you need an extra hand.
An alternative to supporting the cabinet yourself if someone else fastens it is to use what's called a T-brace.
This is basically a 2x4 brace that supports the cabinet in its proper position while it's being fastened.
Be sure you make your brace so it's a little longer than the distance from the floor to the bottom of the cabinet for a snug fit.
Because this upper cabinet is independent of the others, we want to double check it for plumb and level and shim where necessary before attaching it to the studs.
If you don't shim the cabinets properly before you secure them to the wall, it can cause the face frames to rack or twist, and then the doors won't close properly.
Now the next cabinet to go here will be a floor to soffit oven cabinet, but we're going to wait to install it until we have all the base cabinets set along this wall so that we can be sure that everything lines up properly here.
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And now it's time for us to do some work of our own.
For our base cabinets, we'll also begin working from the corner out.
Our corner cabinet has a lazy-Susan feature for convenient access to stored items.
But before we begin installing these cabinets, we'll want to make a cutout in the bottom of this cabinet for our heating register.
To do this, we'll start by measuring off the wall to find its position, then transfer the measurements of the base of the cabinet,
knowing that this inside edge is 36 inches from the wall.
Now, before we move the cabinets into position in the corner,
we want to secure these two adjoining cabinets to the lazy Susan.
The process is the same as for the upper cabinets.
First, we clamp, making sure the face frames are flush.
Then drill through the frame at the hinge locations and secure with two and a half inch screws, again coated with paraffin.
Now, in the final fitting of these base cabinets, our main concern is that these two panels are absolutely plumb with each other
because we have an oven cabinet that butts up against them.
And that looks good.
Now, after we've established this is plumb, then we'll check for level in both directions and shim where necessary.
We also want to recheck the front alignment of the face frames using a straight edge.
This floor to soffit cabinet came with a front panel, which we'll be cutting out to fit the exact dimensions of our combination oven and microwave unit.
We'll be attaching it to both the upper and lower cabinets, starting at the bottom.
With the oven cabinet installed, we went to the west wall, securing that adjoining base cabinet using the same procedure as before.
Along the east wall of our kitchen, we're going to install one floor to soffit utility cabinet, two floor to soffit pantry cabinets,
two upper cabinets over the pass-through, one above the refrigerator, and two base cabinets underneath the pass-through.
Beginning with the utility cabinet, we'll have to shave off the edge in a few spots to create a flush joint with the wall.
This is called scribing.
We do this by using a compass and setting it to match the widest space that exists between the cabinet and the wall.
Then starting at the top, we draw the compass down, transferring the wall's irregularities to the cabinet's face frame.
With a belt sander, remove the waste up to the scribe line.
With the cabinet properly plumbed and shim, we secure it to the wall stud.
Then it's on to the next, matching up the face frame, setting the clamps and driving the screws behind the door hinges.
Installing kitchen cabinets takes careful planning, accurate measurements, and patience.
But as we said earlier, the key to a smooth installation is getting the first cabinet plumb and square.
From then on, it's just a matter of aligning them flush with the first.
And after a while, you develop a rhythm.
Let's take a look at the cabinet.
Let's take a look at our floor plan to see how we're progressing.
So far, we've installed all the wall and base cabinets along the north wall.
Then we moved over to the west wall and installed a wall cabinet here, next to the window.
Then we moved to the east wall for the pantry cabinets, the wall cabinets above the pass-through and refrigerator, and the two base cabinets.
Now we're moving from the corner cabinet under the window, and we're about to make a 45-degree angle for the peninsula.
To make a 45-degree angle for our peninsula cabinets, I'm attaching a premited filler strip to the frame of this cabinet.
Filler strips are used to take up any gaps between cabinets, between a cabinet and appliance, or between a cabinet and a wall.
To achieve a uniform look, it's good to make a filler strip the same width as the style of the cabinet.
We'll attach the premited filler strip to the adjoining cabinet before it's placed in position,
drilling through the backside of the strip into the face frame and securing the strip using 1-5-ace inch bugle head screws.
With the filler strip attached, we can position the cabinet and shim for level using the fixed cabinet as a guide.
Then clamp and screw through the face frame into the filler strip.
To provide additional support for the cabinet, we'll attach a cleat on the outside of the base with screws.
Then we can screw the cleat to the floor, driving the screw through the cleat at an angle.
To place the sink base, first we cut out the bottom to allow for the roughed-out waste vent pipe and the water supply lines.
Then dropping it in position over the pipes, we shim to the level of the fixed cabinet, clamped, drilled, and screwed as before.
Next to the sink cabinet, there'll be a dishwasher. Here again, the peninsula will make a 45-degree angle, so we'll put another mitered filler strip here.
We're allowing 24-1-2 inches for the dishwasher.
That's 24 inches for the actual width plus a quarter of an inch on either side to allow room to fit.
That just leaves the end cabinet, which is a bank of drawers to which we'll add a finished end panel.
The final base to be installed is the island cooktop.
I want to wait on this harbor until all the countertops are installed to avoid marring its finish.
For our kitchen remodel, we're installing a custom-cut countertop with a plastic laminate surface.
The plastic is laminated to a particle board backing.
Our countertop comes with a square backsplash attached flush to the wall side.
You can also purchase countertops with rounded backsplash where the laminate has been heat formed for a continuous service.
In ordering custom-made countertops, it's essential that the measurements are accurate.
You may find that people who fabricate the countertops will want to come to your home and measure for themselves,
and they will prefer to do this after the base cabinets have been installed.
Plastic laminate is just one of a number of countertops available, including butcher block, synthetic marble, and ceramic tile.
Our countertops came in four mitered sections to accommodate this 90-degree angle and the 45-degree peninsula angles.
Now we're going to start by dry fitting and scribing each section one at a time.
Our countertop came with a scribing strip that will shape to the contour of the wall.
We'll scribe this the same way that we did the utility cabinet.
We'll set the compass to match the widest space between the backsplash and the wall.
Then starting at one end, we draw the compass along, transferring the irregularities of the wall to the laminate.
This gives you a guideline for removing the high spots with a belt sander.
I'm using a medium grit sandpaper to contour the backsplash.
To prevent lifting or chipping the laminate, I hold the belt sander so that the belt is moving into the scribe.
Now it's better to take off less than more, so as you sand, work it down gradually, going up too, but not past the pencil line.
Well, now we're ready to dry fit this section.
Perfect.
We'll repeat the process for the adjoining countertop.
Yep. Looks good.
All right. Well, the next step is to attach these two sections together. Ready?
Yep.
Now before we attach these two sections, we want to make sure that the face frames line up flush with each other.
With that established, I run a bead of white glue along one of the inside edges of the mitered joint.
Then we push the two sections together.
The mitered corner comes routed for draw bolts or miter bolts. With the countertop flush, I'll place the bolt in the slot and tighten it with an open end wrench.
The best procedure to use here is to start from the front and work toward the back.
Our kitchen cabinets came with pre-drilled metal corner braces. Your cabinets may have wood braces that'll need to be drilled for the screws.
With the countertop in place, we can attach it to the corner braces. When drilling for the depth of the hole, we don't want to drill through the surface of the countertop.
So after establishing a half inch penetration into the countertop, I wrap masking tape around the drill bit to act as a visible depth gauge.
Once the counter is attached, we can run a bead of silicone caulk along the joint between the backsplash and the wall to seal the back of the cabinets from any water spills.
With our countertops installed, we can now set our island cooktop. In preparation for setting it, we needed to first install the hood vent to the ceiling.
We did this by positioning the cooktop base and drew the outline on the floor, then indicated the location of the cooktop itself.
We then centered the hood vent directly over the cooktop outline and secured it to the ceiling joist.
Now we can set the island base. In planning for an island cabinet, it's best to allot at least three feet of floor space around the cabinets
to prevent any traffic problems and give adequate clearance for cabinet and appliance stores.
We're going to secure the island to the floor with cleats as we did with our peninsula cabinets, only in this case, we'll be anchoring the cleats to the floor first.
To do this, we'll first establish the inside dimension of the cabinet.
Coming in from our earlier outline, the half inch width of the cabinet walls and drawing another line.
We then screwed two by four cleats to the floor at the corners of the inside perimeter marks.
Then set our cabinet and secure through the floor.
With the island base shimmed and leveled, we can now install the countertop, making sure that the overhang is equidistant on all four sides.
And with all the countertops installed, now we're ready to cut out for the sink.
We're using a self-rimming drop-in sink that we'll set just inside the face frame and center between the side walls of the sink cabinet.
Now along with the sink, the manufacturer sent step-by-step instructions, so here's how the procedure goes.
First, I cut a template and traced the outline onto the counter with a pencil.
Then bore a hole with a half inch drill bit to provide a starting point for the saber saw.
Now here's another tip. Put masking tape on the underside of the saber saw to keep from scratching the laminate.
Now here's another tip. Fasten a scrap piece of two by four to the portion of the countertop that you're cutting out to support the weight of the cutout while you're working around the line.
Cutting out for the cooktop is the same process we use for the sink.
Now here's another tip.
Okay, now that you understand the procedure for designing, planning, and installing kitchen cabinets, let's take a look at how a bathroom vanity is installed and a close look at the lamination and installation of its countertop.
Our first step is to locate the studs within the wall.
To check it, drive a nail.
There it is.
And then drive again until I find the edge.
And from here, I measure over three quarters of an inch to find the center of the stud.
And from that point, measure over 16 inches to locate the studs on either side.
Now we want to place the cabinet in front of the pipes. Level it from side to side, in front to back, shimming where necessary.
Once that's done, we can reach back and mark the location of the cutouts.
Then with a hole saw, drill out the openings.
Replace the cabinet, check again for level, and then reshimm.
Then secure the cabinet to the wall.
We can now install the next cabinet.
As you can see, we've removed the doors and drawers to protect them during the installation.
This also gives us a clamping surface here and here for joining the next cabinet.
With the bases set, Peggy can measure for the countertop.
To begin this project, we want to come down and measure the vanity for the countertop.
So we'll measure the width, it's 21 inches, and we'll add an inch for the overhang, 22 inches.
Now for the length, we'll measure first of all to this back corner, 62 and a quarter inches.
Now we know that this is a 45 degree angle, so we'll measure this wall 24 and three quarters inches.
Now for the front edge, we don't want any sharp corners here because you could bump your leg on them when you come into the bathroom.
So we'll come straight out with the countertop to five and a half feet, and then we'll make a slight curve to this corner.
Now first we transferred the measurements that we took from the vanity onto a four by eight sheet of high density particle board
and cut out the dimensions with a circular saw for the straight cuts and a saber saw for the curved cut.
Then finish the final shaping with a belt sander.
With the panel cut, we want to bring it down and test fit it to make sure that this shape is correct, and it is.
Then we turn the board upside down and apply a two inch strip of three quarter inch particle board around the perimeter to reinforce the edge
and a block to reinforce the nose. Then dog with carpenters glue and clamp.
Then attach using bugle head wood screws.
Now here you want to make sure that this strip is flush with the outside edge of the countertop
because the next step is to cut and apply the laminate to that outside edge.
We'll cut an eight foot strip two inches wide using a fine tooth blade in the circular saw, cutting from the rear side.
Then we apply contact cement to both the build up strip and the laminate and allow it to dry to the touch.
Now we apply the laminate to the particle board, overlapping both edges.
And with a laminate roller, press it down to ensure a strong bond.
Now we finish off the edge carefully, sanding off the overlap with a belt sander.
And now for the top. Now here you want to be extra careful because of the size of the sheet of laminate.
Once the contact cement is dry to the touch, we want to put dowels on the particle board equal distances apart.
The important thing here is preventing the cemented surfaces from coming in contact with each other.
Now you want to position the laminate on the dowels, making sure there's an overlap on all four sides.
And starting at one end, gradually roll it down, pulling the dowels as we go.
We want to use the laminate roller again to ensure a strong bond.
The next step is to shave off the excess using a router with a laminate cutting bit, keeping the router in motion to avoid burning the surface.
To finish, we'll smooth down the sharp edge with a file and clean off the excess glue with lacquer thinner.
Now the final step is to set and secure the countertop through the corner braces with screws.
You want to be careful though not to drill up through the surface of the countertop.
In fact, you only want the screw to penetrate a half of an inch.
Now measure from the corner brace to the top of the cabinet.
Add a half of an inch for the penetration of the countertop.
And wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit to act as a visual depth guide.
For our sink installation, I position a template supplied with our sink on the countertop and trace the outline on the countertop for the cutout.
Then we cut it out with a saber saw, supporting it with a 2x4 that's screwed into the cutout area.
Then we drop in the sink and check the fit.
We'll be following the same procedure for the installation of these cabinets with a few exceptions.
Because this area will have an entire bank of cabinets, we'll start installing these first.
Once they're installed, we'll transfer the level of the top cabinet across the divider and establish a level line for all the top cabinets in the entire space.
Now let's go through the steps.
First remove the doors and drawers and mark the face frames with the corresponding numbers.
Then mark for the stud locations on the wall within the alcove and determine the highest point on the floor with a 4 foot level.
Now locate the first base cabinet into the corner.
Check for plumbing level, shimming where necessary.
Again, the first cabinet positioning is the most important for all the succeeding cabinets will be squared and plumbed off of it.
Now we can secure it through the hanging rail into the studs.
Then position, shim, and secure the adjoining bases.
Clapping the face frames flush.
Screwing them together at the hinge locations using the counter sink bit and bugle head wood screws.
Here where the final two bases are located, I'll position the corner first then slide the adjoining unit in place.
This avoids marring the window casing.
All right, with the cabinet level and secure, we can now set the countertop.
We've already cut the top to length, so the next step is to scribe the back edge for a proper fit there.
These countertops come with a scribing strip on the back, which is basically a half inch strip of the laminate left overhanging the particle board,
which is then belt sanded down to the scribed mark.
I'll now refit the top and check the scribe.
Perfect.
All that's left is to secure the top to the bases from beneath as we've done before.
For the next row of wall cabinets, we'll first secure one to the other before setting them into the corner position.
Hanging them as a unit will only make any necessary shimming and scribing a little bit easier.
I first located blocks here at the two sides, screwing through the side of the cabinet into the block,
then slipping the top cabinet over the blocks and then clamping the face frames together flush.
Now secure with screws.
Sliding it into position and checking for any gaps in the rear which should be shimmed or on the face frame which should be scribed
The next step is to locate and clamp the next wall cabinet, waiting to secure it to the studs until the adjoining cabinets are in place.
We can now join the final two uppers using the same steps as before, then position and clamp flush, then finish securing the face frames and hanging rail.
All right, now the last thing we'll do is add a finished filler strip along the top and finished end panels here.
Now for the next alcove.
Here in the right side alcove, I'll begin by using a level to transfer the position of the upper cabinet from the left to the right side.
I can now establish the position of the ledger strip and secure it to the wall into the studs that we've identified
and measure for the center line where the two upper cabinets will be positioned.
Then place the first cabinet into position, aligning it to the center mark.
Now here's a tip on a one-man installation.
Mark for and pre-bore the holes for the screws and start them before putting the cabinet into the hanging position.
This can sometimes replace the need of the third hand.
Once a hole is drilled for the location of the electrical wire, I can proceed by placing the cabinet and clamping the adjoining cabinets face frame flush.
With the upper cabinets installed, I can remove the ledger strip and set in the desk unit.
For the ease of installation, I've installed the drawer unit to the basis prior to fitting.
Slide in the assembly unit and center it into position.
Then secure it through the hanging rail.
And once the countertop is cut to the correct width, I place and secure it to the desk.
Our final step will be to install cold molding over the gap between the cabinet and the wall.
Well, that pretty well wraps up our cabinet program.
Hopefully this information will help you on your next cabinet project.
I'm Dean Johnson.
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