Freedom, adventure, getting away from it all.
Your Mitsubishi four-wheel drive makes all these things possible.
Come with us on a journey of contrasts, of exhilaration and discovery.
From sandy beaches to tropical rainforests and swollen creeks.
To the dryness of Australia's deserts.
We'll see airs rock, climb mountain trails and cover distances that dwarf Europe.
A Mitsubishi is superbly equipped to handle the best, the worst Australia can throw at it.
Whether you have the family-friendly four-wheel drive Star Wagon,
the rugged go-anywhere Triton four-wheel drive Ute,
the sporty short-wheel base Pajero,
or the spacious and luxurious long-wheel base wagon,
a Mitsubishi four-wheel drive expands your horizons.
You know why you chose your Mitsubishi four-wheel drive.
Besides the obvious advantages of a full chassis for greater occupant safety,
a commanding driving position, more load space and the ability to carry more passengers in perfect comfort,
a four-wheel drive will simply take you further than a two-wheel drive.
It's designed to be an escape machine.
If you have a Pajero with the world's first super select four-wheel drive system,
you have an advantage over every other four-wheel drive owner.
You can decide whether you want the sure-footed handling of full-time four-wheel drive
or fuel-saving two-wheel drive,
for the Pajero is unique in offering selectable full-time four-wheel drive.
Most four-wheel drives cannot run in four-wheel drive on bitumen.
Not so with the Pajero.
Thanks to a viscous coupled centre diff and a front diff that's fully synchronised,
you can alternate between four-wheel drive and two-wheel drive at will,
at speeds up to 100 kilometres an hour on any surface.
The viscous coupling, a fluid drive, eliminates all torque build-up in the driveline,
and when the going gets rough, that centre diff can be locked for better traction.
So you have a number of options designed to help you cope with varying conditions with absolute ease.
In good conditions, you can save fuel in two-wheel drive
or make good use of the handling advantages of four-wheel drive.
On rough tracks or in sandy conditions or when roads are icy,
you can stay in four-wheel drive and lock the centre differential.
But for maximum traction on steep inclines, muddy or very rough terrain, select low range.
This automatically locks the centre diff, and because it brings much bigger gears into play,
it creates better torque, and torque means pulling power.
If you plan to be really adventurous, a Pajero option is a locking rear diff.
Short of fitting tank tracks to your four-wheel drive,
this provides about as much traction as you're ever going to get.
Your Mitsubishi is indeed a formidable off-road weapon,
but it should never be used as one.
Four-wheel drive ownership brings environmental responsibilities.
You should always stick to formed tracks.
Leave gates as you find them.
Respect the rights of others.
In short, use your common sense and use your four-wheel drive to appreciate all that Australia has to offer,
not to conquer the continent.
Because of its superior traction and road holding,
permanent four-wheel drive is especially useful to snow skiers who often need to cope with the unexpected,
like ice on bridges.
Bridges can be very slippery in the afternoon as they cool faster than the rest of the road surface,
or road cuttings which trap the cold and can be very icy.
Tree overhangs can be another disaster area, and extreme care must be exercised in water runoff areas.
If you know how to recognise the natural danger signs, it becomes trouble-free,
as long as you remember to leave more space than you normally would when following other vehicles,
and to use the gears rather than the brakes to slow down.
If you're already in high-range four-wheel drive when you hit the snow, stay in it.
You could also lock the centre dip for even better traction.
Use the gears normally, but drive more slowly.
If you have to fit chains, stop where you know you can get going again, like, say, on the crown of a hill,
and well off the road to avoid being hit by other vehicles.
Carrying chains is mandatory in the alpine regions of Australia over the ski season,
which lasts from mid-June to September.
They should be fitted to the front wheels first, to aid steering as well as traction.
But in heavy snow, you may need to fit chains to all four wheels.
But it is crucial to check the fit of the chains after driving 100 metres or so.
They can damage fuel and brake lines if loose.
In heavy snow, select low range and use the gear that gives you maximum grip
without pushing too much torque through the wheels.
If you become stuck, and the best of four-wheel drivers do,
use a long-handle shovel to clear snow from within the wheel arches
and from under the dips and cross members.
The same technique applies equally in sand and mud.
Select low range and try both forward and reverse gears to get yourself out.
Your Mitsubishi is much quieter in low range than many other four-wheel drives
because of a unique silent chain power transfer system.
If you're really bogged and need another four-wheel drive to come to your aid,
the best recovery method is to use a winch.
Because it's slower and more precise than towing,
it's safer on icy, slippery surfaces like snow.
Line slack should be taken up gradually, and bystanders should stand well clear.
Increase engine revs to minimise battery drain, and the vehicle will come free.
If you're driving in deep snow all the time, you'll need low range,
either first or second gear, depending on the conditions.
But remember that a vehicle can generally negotiate powder snow
up to twice the depth of heavy, wet snow.
Look for signs of recognised tracks to avoid snow-covered stumps, creeks and holes.
It's important to check on under bonnet snow builder,
which could short out wiring and electrical components.
And if you plan an extended visit to the snowfields,
the radiator should be filled with anti-freeze,
fan belts checked for correct tension,
battery topped up and the terminals checked.
And adding some methylated spirits to the windscreen washer reservoirs
saves frozen washer jets.
Keep fuel as full as possible to reduce water condensation in the tank,
and make sure the heater demister is in working order.
When the day's adventures are over, put the vehicle in gear when parking,
don't use the handbrake, and extend the wipers off the windscreen.
Both could freeze solid overnight.
Australia can always come up with surprises.
In heavy mud, select second gear low range.
It's easier to put the wipers on beforehand than when you're busy later.
Momentum is more important than power, so keep a steady, not speedy pace.
Don't break or change direction quickly.
It's not infallible, but if you start to lose traction,
back off the accelerator momentarily, then reapply power
while turning wheels from side to side against the ruts to regain grip.
It's a good idea to stick to existing wheel ruts,
but if they're too deep, straddle them.
But you don't know how deep bog holes are,
so where possible, drive around the outside.
If you're alone in muddy country and become bogged, and you have a winch,
you can use star pickets as an anchor point.
Drive three of them into the ground at 45 degrees,
then lash them together and attach the winch cable
to the lowest point on the first steely.
As with any winching procedure, pull in as straight a line as possible.
Where there's mud, there's often deep water.
Whatever the depth of the crossing,
it's essential to walk through to check the bottom.
If necessary, underwater obstacles, like submerged boulders,
should be marked with a stick.
Very soft creek beds should be avoided entirely.
Because engine electrics are more exposed with petrol engine vehicles,
they're less suited to water crossings than diesels.
And with petrol engines, exposed electricals should be sprayed with silicon.
Even so, whatever the engine, in the deeper fords,
it may be necessary to do some preparatory work,
like fitting what's called a blind to minimise water getting into the engine bay.
Move in steadily, creating a bow wave which pushes water away from the engine bay.
Don't rush, as this may cause water to come in the air intake.
It could hydraulic the engine, cracking the block and bending the conrods.
Always pick your escape route on the other side before setting off.
And remember, it may not always be directly opposite.
Select either second or first low, depending on the nature of the bottom
and the strength of the current and depth of water.
Move in steadily and keep to the route you have mapped out.
Don't change gear midstream,
as back pressure in the exhaust could cause the engine to misfire.
Where possible, move diagonally to the current,
and if you feel you are losing traction, accelerate calmly to firmer ground.
Even if you're not making any forward progress,
keep the motor running until you're towed, winched or pushed out.
Except in deep water, where the air intake is again vulnerable.
If you're fording a lot, check the air filter for water
and the diff and gearbox oil regularly.
If the oil has gone milky, change it.
Even when you've got disc brakes front and rear, occasionally they can become wet.
Dry them out by accelerating away carefully while holding the brake pedal depressed.
And remember, the least capable of any vehicle in water crossings
are the forward control four-wheel drive vans.
It's very easy for water to bubble up into the centrally located engine bay.
Music
Mountain areas are potentially the most hazardous for four-wheel driving.
There's the risk of falls or rolls from ledges and steep slopes,
so exercise extreme care.
Speed is never advisable, so use low range
and the gear that feels most comfortable in reducing vehicle bounce.
Before descending a hill, as with any four-wheel drive situation,
you must plan out your line of approach before setting off.
It's pretty steep.
Use low range and first gear to maximise engine braking.
In this situation, diesels are better than petrol engine vehicles
because of their higher compression ratios.
Always go straight down, never across the slope of the hill.
Keep your feet off the pedals.
Using the brakes unnecessarily can lead to skidding,
turning sideways and possible rollover.
And never touch the clutch.
Any sideways tendency should be corrected by throttle feathering and steering.
If on an extremely steep descent,
engine braking isn't retarding vehicle speed sufficiently,
feather the brakes, applying pressure gently to minimise the risk of lock-up.
When climbing on loose or slippery surfaces,
second or even third low is often the right gear,
because if you use too low a gear,
too much torque will be pushed through to the wheels
and loss of traction will result.
However, on very steep slopes, first gear low range is safest.
If you use full throttle, rather let the gears do the work
as you crawl up at low revs.
Remember, tackling steep climbs at a direct angle is critical.
Never, if at all possible, drive across a slope.
If the gradient becomes so steep the vehicle stalls,
use the foot brake and hand brake immediately.
Select reverse gear and refire the engine.
Even if the engine does not fire,
release the brakes and go back down in gear.
Engine compression will slow your descent.
Never brake going backwards, down a suicidal slope.
Wheel lock-up and sideways skidding are potentially fatal.
Birds'ville, real outback.
It's in Queensland's Channel Country.
When it rains here, no-one can drive anywhere,
but mostly it's just hot and dusty.
Pre-trip preparation is the survival key
to any isolated area touring.
It's not just about the weather,
it's about the environment.
Pre-trip preparation is the survival key
to any isolated area touring.
Your vehicle must be mechanically A1.
But proper safety and survival equipment
is not an option out here either.
A first aid kit, and knowing how to use it,
is as mandatory as a basic tool kit.
In spinifex country, a fire extinguisher
is a life insurance policy,
In this driest of environments,
water is your prime concern.
You can exist literally weeks longer without food
than you can without water.
Old Bushmen knew that birds always flew to water holes
around dusk and followed them.
Likewise, in desert areas, well-used animal paths,
called pads, always lead to or from water.
But this is desperation stuff.
You need emergency supplies of food and water.
If you're not travelling with friends in other vehicles,
a high-quality two-way radio is a must.
And if you want to explore really remote areas,
deserts like the Simpson, you should have a Kodan radio.
These can be used in an emergency situation,
or for everyday communication across Australia
and even the world.
We'll make our way up towards you,
one time I would say, over and out.
Sand dunes should be climbed in high range,
in whatever gear is most comfortable to maintain momentum,
either second or third.
Don't over-rev the engine.
Heap revs within the torque band.
Some people deflate their tyres a little for better traction.
But if you can avoid doing so, so much the better.
Deserts are strewn with sharp sticks
which can slash sidewalls like razor blades.
Naturally, in our Pajero, we've locked the centre diff.
And we're over.
Bulldust is unique to Australia.
A superfine dirt, the consistency of talcum powder.
The correct driving technique
is to use high-range four-wheel drive
for straight-line stability and to keep a steady speed.
Too slow and you'll simply bog down.
Too fast and you'll run the risk of suspension damage
on the very hard edges of bulldust patches.
60 to 80 kilometres per hour
is usually the go.
Pressurise the cabin by having the air intake open
and the windows closed.
This will keep the dust out.
SIRENS
Self-sufficiency is the name of the game out here.
Even though our long-wheelbase Pajero has a 92 litre fuel tank
and will make this distance easily,
diesel can carry emergency fuel supplies.
Diesel can be stored in jerry cans inside the vehicle,
but petrol is better stored outside on brackets.
Use metal, not plastic, containers.
And watch for rust flakes and dirt in the dregs of the fuel.
Diesel's still the best fuel out here.
Besides having a higher flashpoint than petrol,
it usually offers a greater range
and is in greater supply through the outback,
although unleaded is now becoming more widespread,
even in very isolated areas.
Outback routes no longer have the forbidding reputation
of 20 or so years ago,
but isolated area travelling can still be dangerous.
We're fine here in our air-conditioned Pajero,
but if we had to stop and get out,
dehydration and heat prostration have to be guarded against,
so you must keep up your fluid intake.
Water's best, as soft drinks just make you thirstier,
and alcohol, which dehydrates, is a definite no-no.
In the unlikely event you do break down,
remember the old adage about staying with the vehicle,
making use of the shade it affords.
If you followed standard procedure
and told the police of your route and projected arrival times,
everything will be fine.
Music
Great surfing, unspoilt fishing
and secluded beaches are waiting for you
when you know how to drive in sand.
Sand types vary throughout Australia,
but high range is usually preferable to low range,
and second gear is often most comfortable.
Avoid windblown areas where the sand will be too soft
and don't fight the steering wheel.
Within reason, let the vehicle find its own way.
Head for the hard pack as soon as possible,
but don't drive too close to the water's edge.
There are two reasons for this.
One is that soft patches,
which can trap your vehicle completely, are common here.
The other is that saltwater is a powerful corrosive,
so actually driving in the surf is very short-sighted
and may invalidate vehicle warranty.
Use the hard pack to build up a reasonable speed
using the gears normally.
Tackle long beaches at low tide
and make sure that you know of an escape route at the other end
or have enough time to return before the tide comes back in.
If you are forced back into the soft stuff
and revs drop to around 1,000 rpm,
change down quickly to maintain momentum.
Unless, of course, you have an automatic
which has a definite advantage over manuals in sand
because it picks its own optimal gear.
The decision is made for you.
When you want to stop, don't brake hard.
This can bury the nose of the vehicle.
Use the sand to slow you down.
If the sand is too heavy going,
and you're at all worried before you hit the beach,
let the tyres down to between 120
and an absolute minimum of 70 kilopascals.
Even with the tyres let down,
normal sand driving techniques must be followed.
Everything must be done smoothly.
Avoid sharp turns, particularly U-turns
which wash off all momentum.
If you have to turn around,
do it rather than up.
Remember those environmental responsibilities too.
Don't treat the beaches a racetrack
or drive too close to other users.
And never drive on vegetated sand dunes.
They are very fragile.
Never drive in dunes without knowing what's in front of you.
A gently rising slope may have a precipice on the other side.
The technique for descending steep dunes
is exactly the same as in mountain terrain.
But you must never brake.
Any sideways tendency must be corrected
with steering control and acceleration.
Once again, always descend in a straight line.
No matter how proficient you become at sand driving,
there'll come a time when you'll be bogged.
Don't sit and rev the engine.
That'll just bury you deeper.
You can often work in mud as well.
Engage first and reverse gears alternately,
gently rocking the vehicle backwards and forwards
to create a hard pack.
Low range can sometimes help here.
But sometimes, when you're bogged, you're bogged.
After clearing sand from around the diffs and cross members,
try rocking again or build up a road for the vehicle
by jacking up one side after the other
with either a bull bag or a high lift jack.
Place dead vegetation or driftwood under the wheels
and try driving out.
Really, it's easiest once again
if you're touring with another vehicle
which can provide a winch point
Snatchem straps expand and then contract,
jerking the vehicle out.
Sand is perfect for this recovery device.
Once back on hard ground,
re-inflate the tyres to road-going pressures.
And always, even after a short beach drive,
remember to wash the undersides of the vehicle
to minimise the risk of rust.
Where mountain country is potentially
the most life-threatening,
rocky terrain presents more opportunity
for vehicle damage.
And although your Mitsubishi is superbly equipped
for rock-hopping with almost unrivaled approach angles,
bash plates to protect all vital underbody componentry
and excellent departure angles,
extreme cavernous terrain
and excellent departure angles,
extreme care is the name of the game.
Approaching obstacles like this,
use the throttle to get the front wheels over.
Ease off, then accelerate again
to bring the rear wheels over.
If you become stuck, turn the wheels to regain grip
and once the rubber bites,
go to peak torque revs,
and avoid damage.
If this doesn't work, do a bit of road building.
You can lower tyre pressures as well,
but bear in mind that rocky country
is usually prime terrain for staking tyres.
Or you can use your winch in this sort of country.
If a tree is the anchor point,
use a web sling to avoid ring-barking it.
Using a snatch block halves the load on the line.
And the D shackles are an important safety component.
So, there you are.
A new world awaits.
From the places you've always dreamed of seeing
to the unfamiliarity of the wild,
to that which really has to be searched out,
there are unlimited horizons for you
and your Mitsubishi four-wheel drive.
Thanks for watching.