Congratulations, you're now the owner of a truly magnificent sewing machine, the Janome
Nouveau. And we're about to show you everything you need to know in order to get the most
out of your Nouveau SW or SD. To begin sewing, the first thing we need to do is wind thread
onto the bobbin. First, place your reel of thread onto the spool pin with the thread
coming over the top of the reel towards you. This will stop the thread catching on the
reel. The machine comes with two spool holders, a large and a small. Secure your spool with
the most appropriate one. Hold the thread with both hands and press downwards against
the hook until the thread clicks into position. Guide the thread around the bobbin tension,
making sure the thread is between the tension disks. Insert the thread through the hole
in the side of the bobbin from the inside to the outside. Put the bobbin onto the bobbin
winder and push it to the right so that it clicks into position. Pull the clutch knob
away from the machine to disengage the clutch. With the free end of your thread in your hand
and holding the thread directly above the bobbin, depress the foot control. The bobbin
will begin to fill. When it has secured the thread with a few turns, pause for a moment
and cut the free end of the thread close to the hole in the bobbin. Continue filling the
spool. The winding will automatically stop when the spool is full. Return the bobbin
winder and clutch back to their original position. Cut the thread to the bobbin. Remove the bobbin.
Remove the clear plastic cover. Holding the bobbin with the thread winding in an anti-clockwise
direction, drop it into the bobbin race. Guide the thread into the notch on the front side
of the bobbin. Draw the thread to the left side and slide it into position. Replace the
clear plastic cover. Now we thread the machine. To help you, there's a threading guide on
the inside of the faceplate. It will also help you to follow us now. Place your finger
on the thread at the top of the machine. Draw the thread around the guide and firmly place
it into the tension. Bring it down around the check spring holder firmly from left to
right over the take-up lever and down through the lower thread guides. Slide the thread
behind the needle bar guide on the left. Thread the needle from front to back. Close the faceplate
after you have threaded the needle. Hold this thread lightly to the front with your left
hand. Turn the balance wheel towards you with your right hand until the needle goes down
and continue turning slowly until the take-up lever is in its highest position. Lightly
draw up needle thread until it draws up a loop from the bobbin thread. Take both threads
to the back and over the thread cutter on the side of the faceplate. If you have the
Navot SD, you will discover that the bottom dial is the stitch selector with preset widths
of 5 millimetres, except the zigzag which is 4 preset widths. Just line up the stitch
required with the white marking above. The top dial controls the length of your stitches.
The buttonhole density is colour-coded green to match the green buttonhole on your stitch
selector. The length dial is not in operation when on a blue stitch as this is preset on
the correct length. If you have the Genome Navot SW, the bottom dial is the stitch selector.
The LED light shows the stitch you have selected. The top dial has the width selection on the
outer ring and the inner dial is the stitch length. You will have full control over the
width of your stitch up to 6.5 millimetres wide. This full width is mainly used on decorative
stitches and wide buttonholes needed on heavier fabric. The inner stitch length dial is used
for all the yellow stitches with a green colour coding for the buttonhole. It is not in operation
when using pink stitches numbers 13 to 18 inclusive as these are preset in length.
The following features are identical on both machines. To change feet, raise the needle
to the highest position. Raise the presser foot. Press the red button on the back of
the foot holder and the presser foot will drop off. When attaching the foot, place the
foot so the pin on the foot lies just under the groove of the foot holder. Lower the foot
holder to lock the foot in place. The pressure dial controls the pressure of the foot on
the fabric. It is located at the top and will be set on 3. Reduce this pressure to 2. That
is the pressure for general use fabrics. 1 is recommended for fine fabrics and stretch
knit fabrics. Tension of the top thread varies slightly with different fabrics but you will
find keeping it between 4 and 5 is correct for most fabrics and stitches. We will construct
a simple 4 panel skirt starting with a simple straight stitch. A contrasting thread will
be used so you can see all stitches clearly. Use foot A. Select straight stitch. On the
SW that is stitch 12, width 0 and length 2.5. On the SD it is this symbol, length 2.5. Then
sew reversing both ends to secure the seam. Using the treco stitch we will now knit in
one side of the seam. On the SW that is stitch 10, width 5, length 1. On the SD this symbol,
length 1. And sew. Another way of neatening the seam is using a zigzag in conjunction
with foot C. This foot prevents the fabric from pleating. Zigzag stitch on the SW is
stitch 11, width 5, length 1. On the SD it is this zigzag symbol, length 1. And we neaten
the seam. Now we will sew in a zipper. You will need foot E. As you can see it is different
to other feet. These centre bars are for invisible zips which aren't used much these days. We
are sewing in a regular zip so we will be using the outer bars. The foot has two bars
to pick up. Now fit the bar at the back of the foot into the groove at the rear of the
foot holder. Lower the presser foot to pick up the front bar. To sew the right side of
the zipper attach the zipper foot on the left hand side. You will need the straight stitch
on the SW that is stitch number 12, width 0, length 2.5. On the SD it is this symbol,
length 2.5. Fold and pin the right side of the fabric next to the teeth of the zip. Now
sew down keeping the edge of the foot next to the teeth. On completion attach the zipper
foot to the bars on the right hand side. The left side of the fabric is now pinned to overlap
the teeth. Sew down 1 centimetre away from the fold to the end of the zip and finish
by crossing over the zip to the seam. Foot E can also be used for ditch stitching as
it enables you to get right next to the seam. Now let's see how this works on the waistband
of the skirt. The waistband has already been sewn on the right side of the fabric and folded
ready to secure with the ditch stitching. Finally the hem. The edge has already been
neatened with a zigzag stitch. Now fold up the amount of hem desired to the wrong side
of the fabric. Fold back the skirt leaving approximately 1 centimetre of fabric. You
should be looking at the wrong side of the fabric. Select the blind hem stitch on the
SW stitch 7 width 3 length 3. On the SD it's this symbol length 3. Place the fabric under
foot G. Adjust the guide by turning it so that when you sew the needle will just be
catching the fold of the fabric. It is important to keep the fold resting just against the
guide as you sew. Now that the skirt is completed let's go to a blouse. You'll find it easy
to do decorative finishes like these. For gathering use foot A and the long straight
stitch on the SW stitch 12 width 0 length 4. On the SD it's this symbol length 4. You'll
also need the tension on 2. This makes it easier to gather. Now pull up the 4 rows on
the wrong side of the fabric securing them firmly. Before using any of the decorative
stitches remember to adjust the tension back to 4.5. We've chosen the honeycomb on the
SW that's stitch 16 width 6.5. On the SD this symbol. Now simply sew on top of the gathers.
We can see the lovely effect of machine smocking. Now let's finish the edge of the sleeve with
a neat rolled hem. We use foot D and the free arm of the machine. To use the free arm unclip
the tool compartment. For a rolled hem on the SW you'll need stitch 12 width 0 length
2.5. On the SD this symbol length 2.5. Turning the sleeve inside out make a double 3mm seam
fold for approximately 3cm to the wrong side of the fabric. Lower the needle into the fabric
at the point where the sewing is to begin. Then lower the hem of foot sew 3 stitches.
Lower the needle into the fabric and lift the hem of foot. Insert the first fold of
fabric into the curl of the foot. Lower the foot then sew by lifting the edge of the fabric
to keep it feeding smoothly into the curl of the foot. To attach the elastic on the
SW select stitch 10 width 5 length 2. On the SD this symbol length 2. Using foot B we've
already joined the elastic in a circle pinning halfway points on the sleeve and elastic.
Join these halfway points together. Slip it on the free arm still working with the sleeve
inside out. Sew a couple of stitches stopping with the needle down in the fabric. Stretching
the elastic to the amount of fabric and keeping the same tension on the elastic at the back
as on the front. Sew first half
and repeat process on second half. The last step on all garments are the button holes
and buttons. On the SW width 5 length half. On the SD this symbol length half. First measure
the button adding 3 millimetres for the finished length of the button hole. Mark this on your
garment where the button hole is to be positioned. Still using foot B start at the top of the
button hole on pattern selector number 1 and sew down the left side to the length marked.
Raise needle. Set pattern selector dial to 4 2. Sew 5 stitches of bar tack and raise
the needle. Set pattern selector dial to 3. Sew up the right side of the button hole stopping
when directly opposite the first stitch of the left hand side. Raise the needle. Set
pattern selector dial to 4 2. Sew 5 stitches. Now the button hole is completed. Use the
quick unpick supplied. Insert it inside the bottom bar opening to half way. Then from
top bar tack cut the opening completely. This prevents you cutting your bar tacks. Using
foot B we'll now attach a button by machine on the SW that's number 11 width 3 and a half.
On the SD it's this zigzag symbol. You'll need to drop the feed dogs. Push the button
at the back of the machine to your right. Have the button taped into position and manually
turning the balance wheel lower the needle into a hole in the button and sew one stitch
into the other hole. This ensures the needle will sew into the two holes. Sew 8 stitches.
When completed pull threads to the back of the fabric and knot.
When you have finished sewing buttons don't forget to bring the feed dogs up again by
pushing the button at the back. This time to your left. Then turning the balance wheel
towards you doing one stitch manually. Let's look at some repairing and reinforcing stitches.
You'll need foot A and the triple stretch stitch. On the SW it's stitch 14 width 0.
On the SD it's this symbol. It's ideal for any stress areas on garments as it sews two
stitches forward and one stitch backwards. It is also ideal as a top stitch. To patch
a hole in clothing leave on foot A. Dial the treco stitch. On SW it's stitch 10 width 5
length half. On the SD it's this symbol length half. Place the patch over the hole. Keep
the edge of the patch in line with the centre of the foot. Sewing down just past the first
corner stop with the needle down in the furthest right hand position. Lift the foot lever and
pivot to come down the next edge. This will reinforce the corner. Continue around the
patch in the same manner. We will now demonstrate sewing knit fabrics with a boys windsheeter
and a girls dress. First dial the straight stitch. On the SW that's number 12 width 0
length 2.5. On the SD this symbol length 2.5. Use your blue tip needle for stretch fabrics.
To quilt the shoulders use the quilting guide which will help to keep the stitching line
straight. Loosen the quilter screw. Slide the quilter in the opening to the desired width
and tighten the screw. We have already placed a layer of wadding between the windsheeter
fabric and the lining. Sew guiding the quilter over the previous row of stitching. Remove
the quilter. For applique use foot B and the satin stitch. On the SW that's stitch 11 width
4 length 1.5. On the SD this zigzag symbol length 1.5. We have already basted on a design
and bagged the fabric with thialine. Now applique using a satin stitch making sure the stitches
will cover the outer edge of the design. Let's see how we finish the garment using foot C
and the knit overlock. Knit overlock on the SW is stitch 17 width 5. On the SD it's this
symbol. You must ensure all edges run along this black guide. The ribbing should be cut
two thirds the measurement of the neck edge. We have already sewn the ribbing into a circle
using the knit overlock and have quartered the ribbing and neck edge using pins. We have
matched the quarter points of ribbing to the neck. As the ribbing is smaller than the neck
we'll stretch the ribbing to fit the neck. This gives a professional finish on your windsheeter.
We'll now use a single knit fabric for a girls dress. Select a shell edge tuck which is a
simple decorative stitch on the SW stitch 9 width 5 length 1. On the SD this symbol
length 1. We've folded the fabric where the tucks are to be placed. The folded edge is
placed along the slot of foot B. The needle should fall off the edge of the fabric on
the right forming a tuck. It's easier to shell tuck the fabric first before cutting your
garment. For an open seam on this knit fabric we'll use foot A and the outline stitch. It
is stitch 13 on the SW width 3. On the SD it's this small zigzag symbol length 1. This
is an exclusive genomys stitch that stretches with the fabric. Now we'll use a flat overlock
on the SW that's stitch 18 width 5. On the SD this symbol. For the armholes turn the
edge in 15 millimetres and sew on the right side of the fabric. For an effective finish
on the hem we'll use foot D as shown on the rolled hem of the blouse. This time we'll
use a zigzag on the SW stitch 11 width 4 length 1. On the SD this zigzag length 1. So stretch
the fabric as you sew and as you can see the result is very effective. Now that you're
up and sewing you can look forward to many years of creativity on your genomys nouveau.
The following will ensure you get the best performance from your machine now and long
into the future. Remove the clear slide plate which covers the bobbin. Lift out the bobbin
and put it aside. Using the screwdriver supplied unscrew the throat plate. Lift off the throat
plate and remove the black bobbin holder. This comes out very easily. Using the brush
which comes with your machine clean out the dust and fluff from the feed dogs and race.
Place one drop of sewing machine oil in the centre of the race to keep your machine running
smoothly. Remember to use sewing machine oil only. Replace the bobbin holder carefully.
You must make sure that the two red arrows line up as you drop the holder back into position.
Replace the throat plate and tighten the screw. Do this regularly say after completing each
garment. This will help your machine to stay in A1 condition. Before removing your needle
use it to the highest position by turning the balance wheel slowly towards you. Lower
the foot, unscrew the needle and remove. Insert your new needle with the flat side to the
back. This is very important. Double check to see that the top of the needle can be seen
in the archway of the needle bar. Machine needles need to be changed regularly. Each
type of fabric should be matched to the needle of the correct size and type. The perfect
complement to your Naveau sewing machine is the Janome Lock Home Use Overlocker. The Janome
Lock is a three thread overlocker that seams, cuts the fabric, neatens edges and prevents
fabric from fraying. It handles knit and woven fabrics with ease and gives a truly professional
finish to all your sewing. These are only a few features available on the Janome Lock.
Call in to your friendly Janome retailer who will be happy to demonstrate the outstanding
Janome Lock to you. Farewell and happy sewing with Janome.