Not just good snapshots, but great shots, and the only thing that these pictures have
in common is that they were taken with a Minolta Maxim XI camera.
Hi, I'm Joe Barrett.
Welcome to the world of Maxim photography.
Your new 3XI is one of the most advanced cameras available today.
It has a host of special features that will help you make an album filled with great photos,
ones that you'll be proud to share with your family and friends.
It will also give you incredible creative flexibility to take the kinds of pictures
you've always wanted to take.
During the next few minutes, you and I are going to take a guided tour of your new Maxim
and how to make great pictures.
First, we'll look at getting started, how to get your camera set up right out of the
box.
Next, we'll look at taking your first pictures, how to use your camera in its fully automatic
modes to take great photos.
Next, we'll help you improve your basic photos with the basics of composition, easy steps
you can take to make your pictures the best ever.
Then, we'll spend some time talking about Maxim's advanced autofocus system and how
you can get the most out of it.
We'll do the same for Maxim's advanced auto exposure system.
We'll move on to the camera's special exposure modes, what they are, when, why, and how to
use them.
We'll take a look at how the self-timer gets you in the picture.
And I'd like you to see why changing the lens on your Maxim will help you take even better
pictures.
That's what separates SLR photography from the rest.
We'll look at the incredible range of lenses available and how easy it is to change from
one to the next.
Moving on to flash photography, we'll look at the built-in flash, as well as the more
powerful accessory flashes designed for your Maxim.
We'll see how flash photography can be so much more than just taking pictures in the
dark.
We'll look at how adding filters to your Maxim can do everything from improving reality
to creating fantasy.
And finally, we'll look at some accessories that help you get the most out of the total
Maxim experience.
You and your Maxim camera can do quite a lot to make the best photos, and you can always
refer back to this tape for reminders.
And of course, the instruction book packed with your camera covers a lot of material
too.
So let's get started so you can get started with your own Maxim experience.
I'm sure that by now you've probably unpacked your camera and all that's in the box.
So first things first, the warranty cards.
These cards do two very important things.
First, they register the warranty for two years on the camera body and five years on
the lenses.
They also sign you up for a two-year subscription to Minolta's contact sheet.
It's an informative newsletter with tips, tricks, contests, photos, and information
about new products to enhance your photography.
Let's get down to business.
The first thing you have to do to get your new Maxim ready is to put on the lens.
First, take off the plastic caps from both the body and lens.
Save these for later.
You'll want to replace them when you store the camera or lens in your camera bag.
Notice the red dot on the lens barrel.
Match this with the red dot on the camera body, and then turn the lens clockwise until
it locks in place.
I'm sure you've also put the strap on the camera.
I'll tell you later how and when to use this cap that slides over the eyepiece and prevents
stray light from affecting exposure.
You may also have this optional wider, more comfortable strap, which is also available.
Using the instructions in the owner's manual, I'm sure that you've already learned how to
put the battery into the camera.
Now, move the main switch from lock to on.
Did you notice this display?
It tells you that the battery is okay.
If you see this display, your battery is getting low.
You can still operate the camera, but you should keep a fresh battery handy.
If the low battery symbol begins flashing while you're using the camera, you're about
to run out of power.
And if you see the symbol flash and bat appears, or if there's no display at all and the shutter
locks, the battery's dead.
Replace it with a fresh one.
Now, let's load some film.
Open the back by sliding the release on the side down.
One choice is easy.
If you want color prints for your photo album, Kodak's Koda Color Gold 200 will give you
good, consistent pictures almost anywhere you go.
I'll mention when to use some of Kodak's other films that are available later in this program.
Place the film cartridge into the chamber and pull the tip past the mark.
Make sure that the holes in the lower edge of the film engage the sprocket teeth.
If the film extends too far or doesn't lie flat, gently push it back into the cartridge.
Close the back of the camera until it snaps shut.
The camera will automatically advance, and if the film is correctly loaded, the counter
in the data panel will go to one.
If it stays at zero and blinks, this tells you that the film wasn't loaded properly,
and you should open the back and try again.
Today, most films are DX-coded to automatically set your Maxim for the type of film you loaded.
DX-coded films have DX printed on the box.
You should try to use films with ISO ratings between 25 and 5,000 that are DX-coded.
Otherwise, your Maxim will default to a film speed of ISO 100, and your pictures may not
turn out correctly.
That's all there is to getting your camera up and running.
Those simple steps set you up to go on to the fun and satisfaction of taking great pictures.
So let's go.
The first step to great pictures is holding the camera properly, and it's the most important
part of sharp images.
Let's see how.
The best way to hold your new Maxim, whether it's a 7XI like this one or another model,
is like this.
Your left hand is the major support for the camera and the lens.
It's the base that gives a stable platform for good sharp pictures.
Your right hand holds the hand grip with your index finger on the shutter release, ready
to take pictures.
This makes it easy to hold the camera for either horizontal or vertical pictures.
To hold the camera as steady as possible, use your whole body to help you brace.
With your left and right hands holding the camera, hold it to your eye and pull your
elbows in tight.
Without jerking, squeeze the shutter release.
For vertical pictures, one of the nice features of the 35 millimeter format, just move your
right hand down and brace the lens with your left hand.
Then you can release the shutter with your thumb or your index finger, whichever is more
comfortable.
Now let's take a closer look at some of the controls you'll be using.
Before we loaded the film, you turned on the camera using the power switch.
This turns on all of your camera's automatic systems.
In the lock position, it locks the shutter and turns off all camera power so you don't
accidentally waste pictures, like when the camera's in your camera bag.
Your new Maxim incorporates an almost unbelievable new system, iStart.
Once the camera's turned on, the data panel and a sensor in the hand grip are activated.
Then, when you grab the camera, this turns on sensors near the eyepiece.
When these sensors detect an object near the viewfinder, they activate the expert programs
for auto focus, auto exposure, and if you're using an XI series zoom lens, auto standby
zoom.
This program looks at the scene and zooms to set the perfect framing of your subject.
We'll talk about each of these systems in more detail in a moment.
But what it all means is that by the time you look through the viewfinder, the camera
has performed many of its setup procedures and is ready to take the picture you frame.
These same sensors also turn off all the camera's systems after four seconds if they no longer
detect anything near the eyepiece.
By the way, the grip sensor may not detect your hand if you're wearing gloves, and you'll
have to activate the camera's systems by pressing the shutter release down part way.
To take a picture, press the shutter release all the way down.
Normally, you'll use your maximum automatic focus mode, but in some low contrast situations,
you may want to switch to manual focus mode.
Move this switch down towards AF-M. The manual focus indicator will appear in the data panel.
Then you can manually focus the camera using the focusing ring on the lens.
To return to the auto focus mode, move the switch down toward the AF-M label again.
You can also cancel manual focus by pressing the P or program reset button.
This resets all of the camera's functions to full automatic operation.
Keep this in mind as we explore the other functions of the camera.
Pressing P will always bring you back to normal fully automatic or program operation.
When you reach the end of a roll of film, the camera will automatically go into the
rewind mode.
With a fresh battery, this will take about 12 seconds for a 24 exposure roll.
When the film is fully rewound, the motor will switch off automatically, and the film
cartridge symbol will blink.
Then you can open the back and put in a fresh roll of film so that you're always ready to
take great pictures.
There are times when you may want to change film in the middle of a roll, like when you
might want to change from print film to slide film.
All you need to do is just turn the camera over and press the manual rewind button.
When you look through the viewfinder, you'll see a number of indications that tell you
about the camera's operations.
Let's go through them one at a time.
The center box in the frame is the auto focus zone.
Position this area on a straight line or high contrast area in your subject for quick accurate
focus.
The two signals on the right are focus indications.
Once iStart activates the camera, it will enter continuous auto focus mode.
When you frame a subject, this symbol will glow, meaning the camera is continuously focusing.
If your subject is stationary, the camera will lock the focus and this symbol will glow.
When you're taking pictures in some low contrast situations, this same symbol will blink.
That means that the camera cannot lock on focus.
If this occurs, you'll need to focus the camera manually, as I showed you before.
A small arrow under the focus indicators is the use flash indicator.
It blinks to recommend using a flash when the shutter speed would be very slow, causing
subject blur, or when using a flash would give a better result, as with a backlit subject.
When this happens, the flash pops up automatically and charges for a few seconds.
The light will continue to blink while the flash is charging.
While it's blinking, the camera locks the shutter and you won't be able to take a picture.
When it stops, the flash is charged and you can then take the picture.
As soon as the flash is ready, a lightning symbol will blink slowly.
After you take a picture, it will blink rapidly to indicate that you were within proper flash
range and you got a good picture.
The smaller lightning symbol indicates that you have selected the red eye reducing pre-flash.
We'll talk about this in more detail later.
And so now you're on your way to taking great maxim photos.
There are a number of other controls and indications on your new maxim that give you great flexibility
in any picture taking situation.
But before we get to those in more detail, let's talk a little bit more about something
that can make your pictures great.
And you don't need to push any buttons, composition.
Taking snapshots is one thing, taking photographs is another.
And one of the reasons that you bought your new maxim is to help you take great photographs,
memorable photos that you'll want to share with your family and friends.
Well, in addition to your maxim, you already have the most important photographic instrument
for that, your own eyes.
So let's talk for a few minutes about composition and how you can take pictures which will capture
the emotions, feelings, the wonder of our world, pictures that will be treasured by
you and your viewers for years to come.
Composition, Webster says it's putting the pieces of a picture together in proper proportion
or relationship.
And that's just what we're going to do now.
Balance what we see in the viewfinder, our subject, the elements around it, and the light.
This will give you the best pictures, the kind you'll look back on fondly for years
to come.
You'll always know just why you brought the camera up to your eye at just that instant.
But let's take it a step at a time.
When you first start to take your pictures, your instinct, and it's a good one, is to
put your subject in the center of the frame.
This works well as it allows the autofocus sensor to work easily and will get you some
very nice snapshots.
But it also tends to put too many elements into the picture.
It makes it too busy.
But if you move in closer, crop out the extraneous elements that distract you from the subject,
you focus the viewer's attention exactly where you want it, intimate close-ups of family
and friends, their smiles, their faces.
And all we really did was move in and eliminate a distracting background.
You'll find that taking pictures with your new Maxim is so easy.
Pictures like that will be a snap, and you'll get photos that you'll treasure for years
to come.
But, of course, people's faces aren't all you want to preserve in your photographic
memory file.
There are mountains, rivers, canyons and cities, groups of children, sunrises and sunsets,
all of these and lots more.
And these can all make great pictures.
But instead of moving in, we now have to back up, show more of the scene.
The trick is how to get more in the picture and not make it cluttered.
Remember our theme, composition, putting the pieces of a picture together?
Well, there's an easy method for deciding exactly where to place the elements of your
picture.
It's called the rule of thirds.
Just imagine that your viewfinder is divided by two horizontal lines and two vertical lines.
Wherever these lines intersect is a great place for an important element of your picture.
Notice that when the main item of interest isn't dead center, you have a much more interesting,
dynamic, dramatic picture.
You could even use the rule of thirds when there's no subject to place at one of those
intersecting points.
When you're shooting a picture with a horizon, rather than just putting that directly through
the center of the frame, put it either in the lower third of the frame or the upper
third.
Your picture goes from being static to dynamic.
If the top of the picture is less interesting, let that occupy less of the frame.
If it's the top that you want to show, then minimize the bottom of your picture.
Just remember, don't always put everything in the center.
Now, if you're going to put your subject to one side or another, which side should it
be?
Well, in general, whichever way your subject is looking, that's where your viewer is going
to look, too, to see what it is they're looking at.
And that's not always possible.
So, have your subject look into the frame and not out.
Rather than putting your subject on the edge of the frame looking out, put them on the
other side looking in.
That way, your picture contains the entire statement and doesn't leave your viewer wondering
what was out there.
Of course, placing the subject to one side may make it difficult for the focusing system,
but don't worry.
A little later, I'll show you how to use focus hold to focus on subjects that aren't actually
in the AF zone.
Alright, the three things we've talked about, cropping your picture, the rule of thirds,
and looking into the picture, all involve just moving the camera around.
But you can also move yourself around, and in the process, get an angle that will help
your photography say even more.
The most intimate pictures are taken eye to eye at the same level.
If you're shooting a child or something that is lower to the ground, bend your knees, get
down to that level.
If you shoot down at them, they'll look small and distant.
By the same token, if you shoot up at something, it will become bigger and more powerful.
In either case, you'll control the feeling that the viewer gets from that photo, even
if the subject doesn't change.
These four simple points of basic composition will help you take photos that will be memorable
for years to come.
It means that you have to balance all of the various elements that you'll see in the viewfinder,
but the pictures you get will be well worth it.
Now perhaps you've started to wonder, if you start to change the way you look at the world,
do you have to change the way you take pictures and how you use your camera?
The answer is yes.
But fortunately, your Maxim makes it easy.
So let's take a more detailed look at the systems in your Maxim camera that help you
in these picture-taking situations.
The autofocus system in your new Maxim is the most advanced system available today.
Its expert program identifies and focuses on your subject, distinguishing it from all
the other elements in the frame.
And it's automatically selected when you turn on the camera.
As I mentioned before, the Eye Start system activates autofocus as soon as you raise the
camera to your eye.
All you have to do is position the focus frame on your subject, press the shutter release,
the camera will automatically confirm the focus and take the picture.
If the subject is moving towards you, away from you, or in any direction, the camera
will continually focus on your subject.
When you press the shutter release, the camera will predict the proper focus for where the
subject will be when the film is exposed.
This gives you razor sharp pictures of even the fastest moving subjects.
But as we saw in the section on composition, you may want to compose your picture with
the main subject off to one side, out of the focus frame.
In this case, you'll use the focus hold feature.
First, place your subject in the autofocus area and press the shutter release slightly
and hold it there.
The camera will focus, and after a second or so, you'll get focus lock confirmation.
Now, without taking pressure off the shutter release, recompose your picture.
Press the shutter release all the way down to take your picture.
The camera will keep the focus regardless of what is in the focus frame, as long as
you keep the button pressed down.
Your new Maxim can focus in almost no light at all with the help of the built-in flash.
In low contrast, low light situations, the flash fires a series of very short, low power
bursts of light on the subject to help your Maxim to focus.
There are some situations which could give your Maxim's autofocus system trouble.
These might include subjects with very little contrast, like a cloudless sky, or two subjects
in the focus frame that are at different distances, like an animal at the zoo behind bars, or
if the subject is made up of evenly alternating light and dark lines which fill the focus
frame.
In any of these cases, shift the camera slightly to reposition the focus zone and use focus
hold.
You might also try manual focus.
Remove this switch, then look through the viewfinder at your subject and turn the focus
ring on the lens until the subject appears sharp in the viewfinder.
In manual focus mode, the shutter can be released at any time, even if the subject is not in
focus.
That's your new Maxim's autofocus system.
Guided by its new expert intelligence, this system is the fastest and most advanced that
there is today.
It'll do more to help you take great photographs than you ever thought possible.
And it's only one of the automatic systems that your Maxim offers to make photography
effortless and fun.
Focusing the picture is only part of the story.
Your pictures have to be well exposed, light enough to show detail in the shadow areas
of the picture, but not so light that the bright areas look washed out.
Your Maxim has a unique auto-exposure system that ensures that you get the best balance
for your photos.
Let's take a look.
When you turn your Maxim on, it automatically selects the expert program mode.
This is the first exposure system that knows exactly what to look for in a picture.
It can identify if the picture you want is a sweeping landscape or an extreme close-up.
It then evaluates these factors with the eyes of an expert and optimizes the aperture and
shutter for that particular situation.
You can tell that you're in the expert program mode by the big P that appears on the data
panel.
This mode automatically calculates the best exposure for your subject and is locked on
the instant the camera confirms focus.
It automatically chooses the best combination of shutter speed and aperture based on its
multi-pattern metering system.
The system determines where the subject is in the frame and adjusts the exposure for
the best results.
Your Maxim also has some special exposure modes that enable you to take special pictures
in special situations.
The special exposure modes are designed to give you even more creative flexibility and
more picture taking enjoyment.
As I said before, when you turn the camera on, it's in the expert program mode, indicated
by the P on the data panel.
And of course, this will give you many great photos.
But your new Maxim has three other exposure modes for special situations.
Aperture priority, shutter priority, and full metered manual.
You can use these modes in many out of the ordinary situations to make out of the ordinary
pictures.
Let's look at aperture priority first.
This mode gives you easy control of depth of field, what's in and out of focus in your
pictures.
With a shallow or small depth of field, only your subject is in focus.
The foreground and background become soft, non-distracting elements of your picture.
This calls your viewer's attention to important parts of your picture, and conversely, a large
depth of field lets your viewer see everything in your photo razor sharp.
To set your Maxim for these pictures, press and hold the program reset button, and move
the shutter speed setting control until A is displayed in the data panel.
When you release the P button, aperture priority is selected.
Now you can set the aperture, and the camera will automatically select the correct shutter
speed for a perfect exposure.
Move the aperture control up to set a lower aperture number, which is a larger lens opening.
This will limit the depth of field, or the area in sharp focus.
As I said in our composition section, this will help to make your subject stand out from
a busy background.
Moving the control down sets a higher aperture number, a smaller lens opening.
This brings more of the background into focus.
In some lighting situations, you might pick an aperture for which the camera can't set
correct shutter speed.
If you do, an indicator will blink.
If you see the top arrow blinking, select a smaller aperture.
If you see the bottom arrow blinking, just select a larger aperture.
You can also use the same controls to select the shutter priority mode, the S in the data
display.
In this mode, you select the shutter speed to control the way moving objects appear in
the picture.
You select the shutter speed you want, and the camera will set the correct aperture for
a perfect exposure.
Moving the shutter speed setting control to the right, selects faster shutter speeds to
freeze fast action.
Moving the control to the left, selects a slower shutter speed to produce subject blur,
and make moving subjects flow, a look that really says speed.
As in aperture priority, if either of the arrows blink, adjust the speed until you get
the correct indication.
Finally, you can use the same button sequence to enter the full metered manual mode, the
M in the data panel.
In this mode, you have total control over both aperture and shutter speed.
Use the shutter speed setting control, as before, to select a shutter speed.
You can even set the shutter to stay open as long as you hold down the shutter release.
This setting is called bulb, and is especially good for fireworks or special photographic
effects where you want the action to flow.
To select an aperture, use the aperture control, as in the aperture priority mode.
In the viewfinder, underneath the focus indicators, there are exposure guides that will show you
how your selected exposure compares to the camera's recommended exposure.
An up arrow shows you that your picture will be overexposed, it will be too light.
Increase your shutter speed or aperture number.
A down arrow means that your picture will be underexposed or too dark.
Decrease your shutter speed or your aperture number.
When both arrows glow, your exposure agrees with the camera's.
These indications are guides.
You can use them to produce dramatically exposed pictures which really show your subject in
the best light.
These exposure modes on your Maxim, plus the autofocus system, will give you unparalleled
picture taking flexibility.
Now, let's move on and talk a little about some different ways of taking a picture.
Most of the time, you'll be taking the pictures with your new Maxim, but the camera can also
take pictures of you.
It has a built-in self-timer that gives you a chance to get in the picture yourself.
First, you'll need to steady your Maxim, either by using a tripod or propping it on a handy
ledge or wall.
Your photo retailer has many great accessories for holding your camera in many different
situations.
Next, compose the picture the way you want.
Make sure there's room for you in the picture.
Then press the self-timer switch on top.
You'll see the self-timer indication in the data panel.
Flash the eyepiece cap that's on the carrying strap to block unwanted light from entering
the camera.
See?
I told you I'd tell you when to use this.
Press the shutter release button, and the camera will lock focus.
You now have 10 seconds to get into the picture.
The built-in flash will fire three small bursts just before the shutter releases, or if you
have an attached accessory flash, its autofocus illuminator will blink during the countdown.
Your Maxim will automatically reset itself and turn off the self-timer for the next picture.
If you change your mind once you've started and want to stop the sequence, turn the camera's
main switch to lock.
There's only one problem with the self-timer.
Now there's no excuse for you not being in your own photos.
Now, I'm sure one of the reasons that you bought your new Maxim was the ability to change
lenses.
Let's see how you can open a whole new window on the world.
Lenses allow us to explore a subject in greatest detail, see it from all angles and all distances
and in all ways.
Whether your new Maxim is the first SLR camera you've owned or you're an old SLR hand, you'll
be amazed at the wide variety of autofocus lenses that are available to you and how they
open up your picture-taking possibilities.
That's because the Maxim autofocus lens family is the largest available for any autofocus
camera, and all it takes to enter this world is a twist of the wrist.
Every lens in the Maxim family can be used on either of the Maxim bodies, the 3XI and
the 7XI, and what a big family it is.
Most likely, you have what's known as a normal lens on your Maxim.
It's a lens that sees approximately what we see with our eyes every day.
It has a focal length of 50 millimeters, and for general picture-taking, it's fine.
But if you want to get more into the picture and you can't back up, then it's time for
a wide-angle lens.
These have focal lengths shorter than 35 millimeters, lower numbers.
And as their name implies, they see a wider angle of view.
They're great for broad vistas and exaggerated views.
There's even an extreme wide-angle lens called a fisheye.
This has a focal length of 16 millimeters and produces photos with a special curved
look.
This shows a very, very large slice of life.
When you can't get close enough to a subject to get a large enough image, you have to go
in the other direction.
Lenses with a focal length over 70 millimeters.
These are considered telephoto lenses, and they bring you closer to your subject without
moving a step.
There are autofocus Maxim lenses ranging all the way up to 600 millimeters.
Let's take a moment to look at one subject and see the different results you get with
some of the Maxim autofocus lenses.
Here's a picture of Lady Liberty with a normal lens, a 50 millimeter.
Now without moving from this spot, let's take a look at her with a 35 millimeter wide angle,
a little more background.
Let's move to a 28 millimeter, a 24 millimeter, and a 20 millimeter.
Now here's the 16 millimeter fisheye.
Notice the curved shape of the image, it's very dramatic.
So the shorter wide angle lenses make it look like we backed up without moving a step.
Now let's go back to the normal 50 millimeter lens and go up from there.
Here's an 85 millimeter telephoto.
Remember we're getting closer without moving a step.
A 100 millimeter brings us closer and so does a 135.
These are great portrait lenses because they bring you right in to get a nice tight view
of your subject.
Here's a 200 millimeter, again from the same spot, about 300 feet or one football field
away.
Our super long telephotos are next.
First the 300 millimeter and then the big gun, the 600 millimeter.
As you can see, you can get right in there for a nice tight portrait from quite a distance
away.
When you use long telephoto lenses like these, you want to use a tripod to make sure you
don't pick up any shake.
In fact, your new Maxim can even sense if there's any shake to the picture.
If the autofocus sensors detect this, the camera will shift the exposure towards higher
shutter speeds to help eliminate any blurring.
There are also Maxim lenses that let you see little things in a big way.
These are called macro lenses and instead of bringing distant objects closer, they let
you get close to small objects to make big images.
There are three autofocus macro lenses.
Two, the 50 millimeter and the 100 millimeter, can let you get close enough to photograph
a small subject at life size.
This means that the image on the film will be as big as the real subject.
These are autofocus lenses, so focus is no problem, but for convenience and sharp pictures
like the telephoto lenses, you'll want to use a tripod because the large image can also
mean large blur from shaking the camera.
The three times to one time macro zoom will give you full autofocus performance to record
images up to three times life size.
The image of the subject will be up to three times larger than the actual subject.
And finally, there's a wonderfully flexible category of lenses, the zoom.
Simply put, these lenses combine a number of focal lengths in one lens and can range
from a wide 24 millimeters to a far reaching 300 millimeters.
For starters, there are the Maxim manual zooms.
With them, all it takes to go from one focal length to another is a twist of the wrist
on the lens barrel.
You can jump from a wide shot to a telephoto without moving a step.
This gives you a great deal of creative control in deciding exactly what you want in your
picture.
Of course, autofocusing is fully automatic.
Minolta's new PZ series of power zooms give you motorized ease of use.
Simply turning the zoom ring one way zooms the lens in.
Turning it the other zooms it out smoothly and automatically.
And then there's the new XI zooms.
They're specially designed to work with your XI camera.
The iStart system on the camera activates auto standby zoom so that the lens automatically
zooms to frame your subject.
Of course, you can also select a different focal length just by turning the barrel of
the lens.
Zoom lenses are very popular today because of the great convenience they offer.
When you're traveling, you only need to carry one or two lenses.
You can focus once and zoom all you want to get many different versions of a scene.
And with today's faster films, you can use them almost anywhere and get great photos.
So as you can see, the variety of picture taking possibilities is limitless with the
entire family of Maxim autofocus lenses.
Most experienced photographers keep a variety of lenses handy, both single focal length
and zooms.
This gives them the versatility they need to get that special picture in any situation.
Your photo retailer can help you select the best lenses for the types of pictures that
you want to take.
Now, there's one type of picture taking situation that you'll probably run into sooner rather
than later.
And that's taking pictures where you have to add light.
So let's shed some light on flash photography.
Your new Maxim has a built-in flash to make flash photography effortless.
In the P or program mode, when you press the shutter release halfway down, it automatically
pops up when needed.
Once it pops up, the lower exposure arrow in your viewfinder will blink slowly while
the flash is charging.
Once the flash is fully charged and ready to fire, the two lightning symbols that indicate
that the red eye reducing system is on will blink slowly.
After you take a picture, they will blink rapidly to let you know that you got a good
exposure.
If you don't want to use the flash, even though the camera suggests it, press the flash control
button and hold it while pushing down the flash.
If you decide to do this, make sure you steady the camera or attach it to a tripod because
the low shutter speed selected by the camera can cause a blurred picture.
To set the flash back to normal operation, push the flash control button or the program
reset.
If you want to use the flash and the expert system indicates that it's not needed, you
can turn on the flash by pressing the flash control button.
Then the flash will fire regardless of how bright the scene is.
If the flash is up and you're in the S or shutter priority mode, the flash will fire
each time the shutter release is pressed.
The shutter speed and aperture will be set automatically just like in the program mode.
In aperture priority or A mode, you set the aperture and the shutter speed will automatically
be set to one 90th of a second.
If the flash is not up, you have to manually pop it up by pressing the flash pop-up button.
Then it will fire each time you take a picture.
In manual or M mode, you can select any aperture, but your range of shutter speeds is restricted
to one 90th of a second and below.
You also have to manually pop up the flash.
Perhaps you're wondering about that smaller lightning symbol.
That's the indication for pre-flash.
I mentioned it earlier, but let's spend a few moments talking about it now.
Many times when you take a flash photo of a person in lower lighting conditions, you
get an effect known as red eye.
This occurs because your subject's wide open eyes reflect the flash right back into the
camera.
Pre-flash works by firing several short bursts of light before the picture is taken.
The result of this is to close the iris in your subject's eyes and greatly reduce or
eliminate the red eye effect.
You may want to tell your subject that this will be occurring so that they know what to
expect.
To turn pre-flash off, press the pre-flash button.
The indicator will disappear.
Pressing the button again turns it back on.
Whenever you use the flash again, pre-flash will still be where you left it, either on
or off.
You can also use the more powerful flashes that are part of the Maxim family of accessories.
This will allow you to get even further from your subject and still get correct exposure.
It also opens up the world of creative flash photography.
The 5200i flash is the most powerful of the Minolta family.
And for better light coverage, it zooms automatically if you're using a zoom lens.
It can be set for bounce flash to eliminate or reduce harsh shadows.
It even has a multi-burst function to give you special flash effects.
The new 3500xi flash was especially designed to work with your new Maxim xi series camera.
Of course, it can operate by simply slipping it onto the built-in flash shoe like the more
powerful 5200i, and it will give you the wonderful soft look of bounce lighting and the long
range of zoom flash.
But this new concept in flash photography can give you the beauty of multi-flash off-camera
lighting with no wires and no calculations.
One or more 3500xi flashes may be placed to the side and behind your subject to provide
modeled illumination that's automatically controlled by the built-in flash and expert flash metering
of the camera.
You'll really want to experiment and see all the great pictures you'll get with this system
and how easy it is to use.
Another wonderful flash that can help give you some wonderful close-up photos is the
Maxim macro flash 1200AF.
This unit attaches to your macro lens and has four separate switchable flash tubes to
create the multi-flash effects that make pictures more exciting and memorable.
You can change from full to dramatic lighting with the flick of a switch.
As in general photography, films like Kodak's Kodacolor Gold 100 or 200 will give you the
best combination of extended flash range and highest quality pictures.
Remember to use a tripod if you decide not to use a flash in low light conditions.
This will help to prevent subject blur.
Let's move on and look at another way to open up your picture taking possibilities.
With filters.
Sometimes reality is not how you want a picture to look.
It could use a little help.
And that's where filters come in.
There are as many different filters as there are ways of looking at the world.
And they're all easy to use.
Minolta makes quite a few filters that just screw onto the front of your lens.
It's a good idea to put a UV or skylight filter on the front of every lens you have to protect
the front element from dirt, fingerprints and damage.
It's an inexpensive way to protect your investment.
One of the most common special effects filters you're liable to use is the polarizer.
This filter deepens colors, making blue skies bluer.
But remember, with an autofocus camera like your new Maxim, you have to use a circular
polarizer so that the autofocusing system works correctly.
Beyond that, the sky is the limit.
For instance, with the Koken creative filter system that's marketed by Minolta, there are
more than 100 different filters available to help you exercise your imagination.
Just place the Koken holder on your lens with the proper adapter, then slide in wonderful
new effects for your photographs.
Filters can make the sky blue when it's not, or create sunset at noon to add a dream-like
mirage.
Your creativity can really shine through.
You can add a wide variety of filters to help make the world look a little prettier, or
more dramatic, or just to bring your own fantasies to life.
And that brings us to our last section, some of the other accessories for the Maxim family.
There are a number of accessories in the Maxim family that you should know about.
They broaden the range of photographic options that you have.
The macro stand 1000 is designed to enable you to take great macro shots.
When used with a macro lens, it provides a rigid support for all close-up work.
The slide copy unit 1000, when used with the 3 to 1 Maxim macro lens, is great for copying
transparencies in slide mounts or strips.
You can also use it to crop slides, zeroing in on areas with up to three times magnification.
The selection of the film you use is another one of the accessory choices that you can
make.
The film determines many of the overall aspects of how your picture will look when you get
it back from the photo finisher.
Films with the word chrome in the name will give you color slides, which you would show
to your friends using a slide projector.
These big, bright, colorful images are sure to have a big impact on your viewer.
Films with the word color in the name will give you color prints, which you can put into
an album.
Or you can make copies to give to friends and family.
Or you can make large prints to hang on the wall.
There's one more choice you can make to help your photographs, the film speed or ISO rating.
As a general rule, the lower the ISO rating, the better the quality of the final image.
But films with a higher ISO number let you take pictures in lower lighting conditions
without resorting to flash.
This is great for indoor sports or romantic portraits of friends and family.
Kodak makes a wide variety of high-quality films, and your photo retailer will help you
choose the right film for the pictures you want.
Just ask.
Popular photography and American photo magazines are also accessories which you'll want to
use to help you advance in photography.
They're like a monthly infusion of the latest ideas and techniques for you to use to make
your photographs the best possible.
Pop and Americans, editors and columnists all work every day with the cameras and films
you use.
And their experience will prove invaluable as you grow in this fascinating hobby.
You'll want a subscription to keep the new ideas and fascinating techniques coming in
all the time.
Minolta has another photo annual that you'll want to look into.
The Minolta Mirror is one of the most beautiful and inspirational photo books you'll ever
see.
Each year, Minolta photographers from around the world display their best work.
This is a classic compendium of great photography.
I also can't emphasize enough the benefit you can get from all of the other books about
photography that are available at your photo retailer.
Retailers make sure they have the most up-to-date information so you can make sure that you
have the best pictures.
And keep your eye out for special books on maximum photography.
In addition to the tripods I've been mentioning, gadget bags are another accessory that you'll
want to help you conveniently carry the cameras, lenses, filters and accessories that you use
to make all of those great pictures.
And of course, you'll want to keep all of these pictures in nice photo albums to easily
show them to your friends and family.
Photo retailers are a great source for all of these accessories.
They're also great sources of information about photography.
As you grow in this wonderful form of self-expression, you'll want to keep in touch with your dealer
to get the latest advice and information.
Not only about photography, but also about the newest additions to the Maxim system to
help you make great pictures easier.
You know, I've talked a lot about photography for the last few minutes, but I think that
if there's one piece of advice I can give you that's probably the key, it's take lots
of pictures.
It's the way I filled my photo albums with lots of great pictures.
The more you take, the more good ones you'll get.
So there you have it, your new Minolta 3XI.
We at Minolta would like to welcome you to the world of autofocus photography, photography
as it's never existed before.
Don't forget to send in your warranty card.
And don't forget that you can always refer back to this tape to update yourself on the
wonderful things you can do with your Maxim camera.
Most important of all, don't forget to take lots of pictures.
After all, that's the best way to unlock the full potential of your Maxim camera.
Thanks for watching, and have fun.