Welcome
to the fascinating world of overlocking. You chose Bernet and we want you to make the most
of Bernet's versatility. The Bernet overlockers range from the 303 three-thread model to the
334 a three-four thread model with or without differential feed up to the five-thread model
the 335. Two knives cut off the fabric edges giving the inside of clothes a perfect neat
finish. An overlock stitch is a loop formed by the looper and the needle threads which
produces a chain. The three elements loopers needles and knives work together to cut sew
and neaten. Bernet overlockers including the new fun locks are the ideal addition to sewing
machines for a truly professional finish. The Bernet 303 has one needle and two looper
threads to produce a three-thread overlock which is mainly used for neatening. The 334
with or without differential feed works with two needles and two loopers to produce a four-thread
overlock with integrated safety seam. It's primarily used for sewing together stretch
and knits. This very versatile machine can also be used with one needle to produce a
three-thread overlock for neatening. The five-thread overlocker is ideal for the professional or
semi-professional sewer. The stitch formation is made up of a double chain stitch combined
with a three-thread overlock both of which can be used independently. The chain stitch
can be used for decorative purposes. The five-thread overlocker is mainly used for woven fabrics.
All Bernet overlockers are compact and easy to carry. All controls are placed on the right
hand side. For roll hemming just flick the lever and sew. Accessories for your Bernet
are conveniently stored inside the looper cover. A colored threading illustration makes
it easy to thread your overlocker. The unique Bernet design makes them the easiest overlockers
to use as we will show you step by step. To prepare for sewing first plug the machine
in. The foot control regulates the sewing speed from slow to maximum. Raise the support
rod and turn until the catches engage. Place thread cones in position. All types of cones
household or industrial can be used on the Bernet overlocker. For larger cones turn the
anti-vibration cones upside down. When sewing with normal household spools remove the anti-vibration
cones, place them inside one another for storage, place spools on spool holders and place the
spool caps on the top with the rounded side underneath. For neat and tidy sewing place
the waste collector in front of the looper cover. Switch the power and light on. The
hand wheel turns forward as on a household sewing machine. Open the looper cover by pushing
to the right. Close by pushing upwards until it clicks into place. Open the cloth plate
by pushing to the left. Push it closed until it clicks into place. Raise the presser foot
by lifting the presser foot lifter. Raise it again for easy insertion of thick fabrics.
To swing out the unique presser foot on the 303334 or 334D raise the needles, raise the
presser foot and swing it out. To change the presser foot raise the needles then the foot.
Press the catch to release the presser foot sole. Slide the replacement foot sole so that
the groove lines up with the presser foot pin. Lower the shank and the presser foot
will engage automatically. To raise the knife open the looper cover, press to the right
and turn upwards as far as it goes. All Bernet overlockers use household needles. They must
always be inserted with the flat side to the back. Swing presser foot out, insert the right
needle first, tighten needle clamp slightly, then insert the left needle. Use either the
tweezers or the clever new Bernet needle inserter. Make sure that both needles are inserted as
far as possible and then tighten both needle clamp screws firmly and swing foot back into
position. To thread your overlocker just follow the illustration and start with the upper
looper thread. Following the blue markings take the thread through the blue guide. Make
an S loop around the thread guide bar. Take thread round the tension dial and pull slightly
to make sure the thread is between the tension discs. Take the thread through the blue open
thread guides. Hold it with the tweezers and place the thread in the last guide before
the looper eye. Double the thread and twist it. Swing the presser foot out and thread
through the looper eye. Pull thread through, lay it under the presser foot, swing presser
foot back and lower it. Now thread the lower looper following the red markings. Bring thread
up from the spool and take it through the red guide. Make an S loop around the thread
guide bar and then thread the tension dial, pulling slightly to check that it's between
the tension discs. Continue slipping it into the red thread guides. Open the cloth plate,
remove the looper threader and using the threader bring the thread through from the right to
the left side of the machine. Turn hand wheel until the lower looper is in the leftmost
position. Slip thread into slit on the looper, pull on the thread end to the right and pull
through. Take thread out of threader, turn hand wheel until the loopers nearly cross
over and thread the looper eye. Place thread under the presser foot, lower it. Pull slightly
and check that the lower looper thread is on top of the upper looper thread. Now thread
the right needle. Bring thread up from the spool and take it through the green guide.
Make an S loop around the thread guide bar and then take thread around the tension dial,
again checking that it's between the thread tension discs. Continue threading the green
thread guides. Turn hand wheel towards you to raise the needles. Raise and swing out
the presser foot and thread the right needle using the tweezers to pull the thread through
and place thread underneath foot. Swing presser foot back and lower it. Thread the left needle
in the same way following the yellow markings. Make an S loop around the thread guide bar.
Take it through the yellow thread guides. Raise the needles, raise and swing out the
presser foot. Thread the left hand needle and place thread underneath. Swing presser
foot back and lower it. To rethread the machine with different thread, simply cut off existing
thread above the spools, not new thread to old. Cut needle threads just in front of the
needles and set tension dials at zero. Then pull looper threads through first, then the
needle threads. Then rethread needles and reset tensions to original positions. Now
make a sewing test. Set all tension dials to five. Raise the presser foot with your
thumb, position the fabric under the foot up to the knife so that a quarter of an inch
of fabric is cut off while sewing. Continue sewing to form a chain and cut chain off on
the thread cutter. You can also continue until a longer chain is formed, then pull gently
round to the front and cut the thread chain off with a knife. Use double layer for sewing
test. Check your sewing test. The lower looper thread lies on the underside, the upper looper
thread on the upper side of the fabric and both loops should meet exactly on the edge
of the fabric. Both needle threads appear as straight stitches. Pull slightly and you
will see what a beautiful seam your Bernet makes. For a narrow three thread overlock,
remove the left needle and the left needle thread. For a wider three thread overlock,
remove the right needle and the right needle thread. The four thread overlock is ideal
for sewing together all types of stretch or jersey fabrics, the universal stitch for any
type of leisure wear. The narrow three thread overlock is perfect for neatening seam allowances
and narrow seams in fine knits and for roll hemming. The wide three thread overlock is
ideal for neatening edges of loosely woven thicker fabrics. The 334D and the 335 are
both equipped with differential feed. It can be used together with all stitch types to
produce perfectly flat and non-wave seams in all stretch and knit fabrics. The differential
feed ideally placed on the right hand side is quickly and easily adjusted while sewing.
The stitch length dial just above the differential feed knob can also be adjusted while sewing
from satin stitch to four millimeters. The cutting width knob moves the position of the
lower knife. As soon as the upper knife is lowered, it adjusts itself automatically to
the position of the lower knife. If the thread loops are too loose, the cutting width should
be increased to a higher value. If the fabric curls in the stitch, the cutting width should
be reduced. To thread the Burnett 335 for chain stitching, turn the hand wheel until
the upper looper is in its lowest position. Press the lever to release the looper. Turn
the hand wheel to check that the upper looper does not move. Open the cloth plate. Bring
the thread up from the spool and take it through the purple guide, through the thread guide
on the support rod, and down to the guide at the bottom back of the machine. In through
the next guide and then around the thread tension. Take the thread through the long
slot and into the last thread guide. Turn the hand wheel forwards until the chain looper
is in the leftmost position. Lay the thread in the slit on the looper from back to front.
Use the looper threader to bring the thread through to the right side. Turn the hand wheel
forward until the looper is in the rightmost position. Double the thread and twist and
thread the chain looper. Pull the thread through with the tweezers and cut so that about two
inches remain hanging free. Now thread the chain stitch needle. Bring the thread up and
take it through the yellow guide. Make an S loop around the thread bar and take the
thread around the tension dial, pulling slightly to check that it's in between the tension
discs. Take the thread up and through the take up, through the next guide and then thread
the needle. Place the thread over the presser foot to the left side. For a chain stitch,
remove the knife guide and attach the special guide plate. Make a sewing test. Raise the
presser foot and position the fabric under the needle so that the needle goes into the
fabric as soon as sewing is started. Continue sewing over the end of the seam, forming a
thread chain. Cut the thread chain on the thread cutter or with a scissors. For the
next seam, just lift the presser foot with your thumb and start sewing. Your Bernet overlocker
requires very little maintenance. For all maintenance work, first unplug the machine.
To clean and lubricate, open the looper cover and remove the dust and fluff with the brush
provided. Lubricate the two points indicated in the instruction manual. To change the lower
knife, raise the needles and the upper knife. Use the large screwdriver to loosen the set
screw on the lower knife retaining plate and remove the knife. Fit the replacement knife
into the groove so that the sharp edge is in line with the stitch plate and retighten
the set screw. To replace the bulb, simply unscrew and screw in the new one. After the
basics of overlocking, here are some of Bernet's special applications. They are not only practical
but also decorative and very attractive.
One of the most useful stitches on an overlocker is roll hemming. And on the Bernet, it's so
simple. The machine should be threaded for a narrow three thread overlock with the right
needle. Pull the lever back, reduce the cutting width to between one and one and a half. Reduce
upper loop retention and increase lower loop retention. Make a sewing test and adjust the
stitch length while sewing to get the desired effect. Stitch length is normally between
one and one and a half. Roll hemming is ideal for finishing edges on all articles made from
fine fabrics. The roll hammer can also be used for narrow seams and makes lovely pin
tucks. Fold the fabric and press the fold. Guide the fabric along the right hand marking
on the presser foot and sew along the fold without cutting. Use normal tension settings
for pin tucking and set the stitch length to between one and a half and two. For sewing
in lace, use the same tension and stitch length settings as for pin tucking. Place the fabric
right sides together with the edge of the fabric protruding slightly. Sew, guiding the
edge of the lace along the right hand marking on the presser foot so that the lace is not
cut. Only the raw edge of the fabric is cut away. Open out the lace. This is the right
side. To sew on the next piece of fabric, place right sides together with fabric edge
protruding slightly. Sew the next seam in the same way.
To sew lace together, place the pieces right sides together. Guide along the right hand
marking on the presser foot and sew without cutting. Reduce needle thread tension to zero.
Pin out the lace. As the needle tension was reduced to zero, you can pull the seam open
gently for a practically invisible flat joining seam. The joined lace pieces can now be sewn
onto fabric with the needle thread tension set back to normal, around five. Sew, cutting
off the raw edge of the fabric. You can make really beautiful items on your Burnett overlocker
using pin tucking and lace insertion. Gathering is simple, using the differential feed adjusted
to a maximum setting of two and a stitch length of three to four and cutting width of one
to two. The machine is set up for four thread overlocking, tension settings normal. Place
a single layer of fabric under the presser foot and sew slowly, letting the fabric feed
loosely and not holding it back. Now join the gathered section to a flat piece of fabric.
Place fabric right sides together. Adjust differential feed to normal, stitch length to two and a
half. Sew over the gathered edge, cutting off the raw edge of the flat piece of fabric
only. What a pretty frill.
Flat locking gives you a lovely decorative effect. Set the machine for three thread overlocking
with left needle. Use normal sewing thread in the needle and lower looper and a decorative
thread such as cordonnet, buttonhole twist or pearl yarn in the upper looper. Adjust
tension. Loosen needle thread tension fully, reduce upper looper tension to between zero
and two and increase lower looper tension to between six and nine. Place fabric wrong
sides together and sew, holding the thread for a few stitches. You can also sew flat
lock along the fabric fold without cutting. Pull the seams apart and you'll have a perfect
flat lock. The first seam is a decorative joining seam and the second is purely decorative
without joining. Flat joining is perfect for patchwork. Turn under three eighths of an
inch seam allowance on both fabric pieces. Place wrong sides together and sew along the
folded edges without cutting. Pull the seams gently apart and press open the seam allowances.
Strips or squares of fabric can be joined in this way to produce beautiful patchwork.
This edging is another very decorative element. Cut a stretch fabric across the knit. Set
the machine and tensions for roll hemming and adjust differential feed to point seven.
While sewing, pull gently on the fabric so that the edge curls. For a curlier edge, stretch
the seam slightly. Spaghetti straps are very easy to sew. Set the machine for normal overlocking.
Form a thread chain slightly longer than the spaghetti strap. Place the thread chain along
the fabric and fold the fabric over the thread. Sew the seam, checking that the thread chain
in between the fabric does not get cut. Pull on the thread chain to turn the spaghetti
strap to the right side. Optional accessories are available for your Bernet overlocker to
make sewing even easier. The blind stitch foot sews, trims, and neatens hems in stretch
or knit fabrics in one easy go. Attach the foot and set the machine for three thread
overlocking with the right hand needle. The guide on the foot can be adjusted to sew an
invisible hem in stretch or knit fabrics. For fine fabrics, move the guide closer to
the needles and for heavier fabrics, move the guide away. Adjust tension. Turn up hem
and press. Fold under the hem section. Position the hem under the presser foot, adjusting
the guide so that the needle just catches the fabric fold, so cutting off the excess
fabric. For a mock blind hem, ideal for very fine jerseys, adjust tension and stitch length
to normal settings. Set the blade on the foot further to the right so that the needle goes
into the fold of the fabric. Another variation is the flat locked blind hem. Adjust stitch
length to between two and a half and four and use flat locked tension settings. These
are the three blind hem variations. The normal for medium to heavier weight knits, the mock
blind hem for visible hems in fine jerseys, and the flat locked blind hem giving you an
attractive decorative hem. Another useful accessory is the cording foot. It has a guide
for sewing in special threads. Attach the foot and set the machine for roll hemming.
Cutting width to one, stitch length to about one and a half to two, and needle thread tension
to zero. Place spool of pearl yarn on the spool holder and take it through the thread
guide on the support rod directly to the guide near the sewing light. Take it under the foot,
slip into the rear guide, and then into the front guide on the foot. Fold fabric right
sides together and sew along the edges without cutting, sewing in the pearl yarn at the same
time. The second variation is sewing with fishing line, which is sewn in along the edge
of fabric that has been cut on the bias. The fishing line should be no thicker than 0.7
millimeters. Set the machine for roll hemming. Stitch length one to one and a half and cutting
width about one to one and a half, and increase lower looper thread tension to between six
and nine. Before starting to sew, pull fishing line out behind the presser foot and hold
it when starting to sew. Cut threads and fishing line, leaving a length of about 10 inches.
Pull the pearl yarn together until the desired amount of gather is achieved. Then gently
stretch the roll hemmed edge to pull in the fishing line, which gives you a beautiful
wavy edge. Another variation is sewn with elastic. Thread the same way as before. Fold
the fabric right sides together and sew without cutting at the same time sewing in the elastic.
Pull the seam apart gently. Pull the elastic until the desired amount of gather is achieved.
With the elasticator, you can sew on elastic from five to 12 millimeters in width. Set
the machine for four thread overlocking and set the stitch length to four and increase
pressure foot pressure to maximum. Raise the presser foot and the roller on the foot. Insert
the elastic into the slit on the foot. Sew a few stitches until the elastic moves over
to the right side of the foot. Lower the roller and adjust the guide to the width of the elastic.
Then sew a few more stitches. Place the fabric with the wrong side uppermost and adjust the
pressure to suit your needs. Watch the fabric feed and let the machine take up the elastic
slowly. This foot is ideal for sewing elastic onto gymnastic clothes, swimwear, or lingerie.
For a perfect finish, turn the elastic under and sew from the right side with your Bernina
sewing machine. You can also sew on decorative elastic. Sew elastic on with the straight
edge to the right, fabric right side uppermost. Turn and sew from the right with your sewing
machine for a pretty finish. You can also sew on lace and elastic together. Place the
lace and the fabric right sides together and sew cutting off the edge of the fabric. The
elasticator feeds the elastic without you having to hold or to watch it. You can concentrate
fully on the fabric and the lace. Finish with the sewing machine for a lovely, decorative
edge.
Another Bernet advantage is the tape guide on the normal presser foot. Set the machine
for four-thread overlocking. Swing the foot out, insert the tape, swing the foot back,
and sew a few stitches on the tape. Then adjust the tape guide so that the right needle goes
into the tape. Place the fabric under the tape and sew. This is ideal for stabilizing
cross seams, especially in jerseys or handknits. You can decorate a ribbon with a flatlock
seam. Use three-thread overlocking with the left needle. Set tensions for flatlocking.
Adjust the guide so that the needle does not sew into the ribbon. A delightful effect when
sewn onto children's clothes. A strip of sequins can be sewn onto fabric. Use transparent thread
in the upper looper and sew along the folded edge of the fabric, making sure that you sew
with the sequins and not against them so that they don't stand up while sewing. Sew, making
sure not to cut the sequins. Pull the seams open. You see, pretty effects can easily be
realized with decorative bands and sequins. You can over-sew several ribbons with normal
thread tension and then braid them or sew them individually onto clothes with the sewing
machine for an unusual but very attractive look. Many different types of thread can be
used in the loopers of your Bernette. Wool and narrow ribbons can be used in the upper
looper. Wind them onto cones for easier feed. When thick threads are threaded onto the machine,
it's often better not to thread them around the tension dial or through the last thread
guide before the upper looper. For heavy threads, use stitch length of between three and four.
Pearl yarn, baby wool, candlelight metallic and woolly nylon can be used in either the upper looper
alone or in both loopers. Threading is the same as for normal threads but use slightly
looser tensions. Do not necessarily thread the last thread guide. Stitch length can be adjusted
to two and four. The result of threading both loopers with special threads is an attractive,
reversible stitch. Very fine threads like silky polyester, metallic or cordonnet can be used in
both loopers. Combined with a very short stitch length, they produce a lovely satin stitch. With
the choice of threads available and Bernette's capabilities, a multitude of decorative effects
on clothing, craft items and home furnishings can be achieved. Fringing is very easy to do with your
Bernette. Set the machine for three thread overlocking with the left needle and tensions
for flatlock. Measure the length of the fringe wanted and pull a thread at this distance from
the edge. Fold over where the thread was pulled. Sew flatlock along the right side of the fold.
Pull the flatlock gently open. Then pull the threads up to the flatlock to make the fringe.
You can then knot it to obtain this unusual effect. Sewing with the Bernette overlocker
is quick and easy. In no time at all, our special professional tips will turn you into an overlock
expert. To secure seams, sew a few stitches until the needle just goes into the fabric and then use
the hand wheel to put the needle into the fabric. Raise the presser foot, fold the thread chain back
onto the fabric under the foot. Lower the foot and sew over the chain, cutting off the excess
with a knife. Sew to the end of the seam, leaving the needle just in the fabric. Raise the foot,
turn the fabric over towards you under the foot. Lower the foot and sew over the seam slowly without
cutting. Raise the needle and foot, turn the fabric to the side, lower the foot and sew to
form a chain, then cut. Or you can form a chain at the beginning and end of the seam and pull it
through the stitches with a darning needle. To unpick seams, use your Bernina seam ripper
or small scissors to cut the loops and then pull on the needle thread. To mend a seam,
raise needles and presser foot and insert fabric at the seam break. Sew a few stitches over the
seam and continue sewing without cutting the edge of the fabric.
Most commercial pattern companies produce special overlocking patterns,
but many regular patterns can be used with Bernet. When selecting a pattern,
choose simple styles which are loose fitting and which can be sewn, if possible, without
zips or buttons. You can always use Velcro or snap fasteners for really easy results.
Cut out according to manufacturer's instructions. The advantage of overlocking is that the knives
cut away the raw edges. So when overlocking, cut off the surplus seam allowance so that the
seam comes along the sewing line of the pattern. For really exact work, you can mark the sewing
lines with tailor's chalk. After some practice on your Bernet, you'll find pinning together
is unnecessary. However, if you want to pin together or if the pieces are fiddly, pin together with the
pins parallel and about an inch from the fabric edge. So, so that the left needle sews into the
marked line and remove the pins in front of the foot. Whatever you are sewing, you will have to
sew a curve. To sew an outside curve, sew slowly and try to feed the fabric in a straight line into
the machine. For inside curves, so until you reach the curve and then straighten out the curve and
continue sewing so that an even amount is cut off the edge of the fabric. If you want a perfect
corner, for example, on a placemat or a tablecloth, make a snip in the corner exactly along what will
be the cutting line. So up to the corner, raise the needles and presser foot, push the roll hemming
lever back to roll hemming. Turn the fabric so that the snipped fabric edge is in line with the
knife and the needle goes into the fabric just below the existing stitch. Push roll hemming
lever back to overlocking and continue. A perfect corner. To neaten the edges of inside corners,
snip into the corner. So up to the corner, straighten out the fabric and fold over the
excess fabric towards you and sew into the corner. Once in the corner, turn excess fabric away from
you and continue sewing. For sewing crossed seams such as crotch or underarm seams, match seam lines
and press the lower seam towards you and the upper seam away from you and sew. One of the easiest
and nicest ways to finish casual wear is with ribbing. Mark the ribbing and the lower edge of
the garment into four equal sections with pins. Matching up the pins, pin ribbing to the lower
edge, sticking the pins into the ribbing. To start sewing in a circle, cut away a small rectangle
of fabric. Raise needles and presser foot and position the work under the foot so that the
knife is in line with the cut section. Always use differential feed on two when applying
ribbing and attach the seam guide and adjust to the width of the ribbing. Stretch the ribbing
while sewing. At the end of the seam, sew over the existing stitches, cutting off the thread
chain. Sew about one to two inches further over the existing stitches without cutting.
Raise the needles and presser foot, turn the work to the side and sew away from the seam.
If you buy a finished ribbing, sew it on in the same way but without cutting off the edge
of the ribbing. Guide the edge of the ribbing along the right hand marking on the presser
foot. To make a waistband casing, cut the waistband to the width of the lower edge.
Fold in half and sew on as for ribbing without stretching, leaving a small opening to insert
the elastic. Insert the elastic
and sew over the opening without cutting.
Our Overlock Sweatshirt is now complete. You can use your Bernette for all seams, sewing
on the ribbing and neckband and making a flat seam with decorative thread. A complete garment
in no time at all.