What a sensational view, and it's fairly typical of the sorts of views that you can access
by four-wheel drive vehicles around Australia, one of the great countries for using a four-wheel
drive vehicle recreationally, which is what we're doing here actually, we're producing
a set of maps and route charts for the whole country for people to be able to use who would
like to take a look at it in their four-wheel drive vehicle. And the more I'm out here,
the more I realise just how much there is of it to see that's worthwhile that you can't
see other than by four-wheel drive vehicle. It just does access some fantastic areas.
And there's one other thing I realise as well. A great many drivers out here in four-wheel
drive vehicles are not quite sure of what they should be doing or how they should be
doing it. It's not exactly like driving up and down the bitumen. There are some special
techniques to be learned. And sometimes getting access to those techniques, learning those
sorts of things is not so easy. But it will be from now on. And that's what this video
is all about. And the guy who's responsible for the production of the video is Graham
Maxwell.
Graham, g'day.
How are you, Peter?
Mate, you've done a lot of four-wheel driving in Australia and in Papua New Guinea and you
also run some four-wheel drive courses. Why did you suddenly decide to produce the video?
Well, Peter, a couple of years ago when I set up the four-wheel drive courses that I
was doing, there just wasn't anything available. Anything available to use as back-up to the
theory lessons that I was giving these people before I let them loose into the scrub.
So do you intend to teach everything about four-wheel driving?
All of the basic stuff. From the differences between the vehicles, right through to the
basic recovery gear they should have.
Like climbing up steep tracks like this one?
Yeah, exactly.
In the right gears at the right time?
Exactly.
Back up with a bit of wheel slip. He's getting there, though. It's a hard road. We'll make
good luck with it. I mean, let's get everybody doing it right. It's hard work and it deserves
to be done properly.
I think that's essential. Some of the things that you've seen people do and I've seen
people do is terrifying. It's a big country. It's a magnificent country, but you really
need to be prepared properly to be able to do it right.
Alright, let's make a start. The first thing we should notice is that the four-wheel drive
stands taller and is heavier than its two-wheel drive counterpart. That will mean, of course,
that the centre of gravity in the four-wheel drive is higher than that of the conventional
vehicle.
Now, because of these differences, there'll exist a need for you to make some adjustments
to your driving techniques. In any motor vehicle, when the brakes are applied, but
especially under hard braking, a weight transfer occurs from the rear to the front. That weight
transfer can have a fairly dramatic effect on things like braking efficiency, steering
and overall handling. And with the additional weight in a four-wheel drive, it can be even
more dramatic. It's important that you take the time to familiarise yourself with your
particular vehicle's characteristics because they will differ from make to make.
In getting to know your vehicle, don't assume that because you've driven a two-wheel drive
vehicle for a few years, you have all the experience you need. Quite simply, that is
seldom the case and complacency is a real danger. In case you're wondering why it is
that your four-wheel drive sits higher than a conventional vehicle, that's because its
suspension is designed that way specifically so as to gain the maximum ground clearance.
Inside the two vehicles, although interiors are similar, in the four-wheel drive there
exists one important difference, the inclusion of an additional gear lever. This is the transfer
case select lever. It's usually located close to the standard transmission gear lever and
provides us with a means of changing from normal two-wheel drive, high range, used for
highway driving, to four-wheel drive, high range, for when better traction is required
off-road, or when the real serious work starts, to four-wheel drive, low range. With changes
between four-wheel drive high and four-wheel drive low range, there are also changes in
gear ratios. These changes in drive modes and gear ratios are achieved by the inclusion
of an additional gearbox known as a transfer case, which is attached to the rear or output
end of the main transmission. Let's take a look at the drive lines of the two vehicles.
In the two-wheel drive vehicle you see here, we have the engine, the transmission assembly,
a single drive shaft connected to the differential axle housing assembly at the rear. In the
four-wheel drive we have the engine, the transmission, and attached to the rear of the transmission
is that transfer case we spoke of earlier. And it's at this point the real changes take
place in the drive lines. We now have, for instance, a drive line coming from the rear
of the transfer case going back to the rear differential assembly. We now have also a
second drive line going to the front differential assembly. And that basically is how four-wheel
drive is achieved. It's important that you remember though, unless your vehicle is of
the constant four-wheel drive variety, even if you have engaged a four-wheel drive range
with the transfer case lever, four-wheel drive will not be affected until such time as you
have placed the three-wheel hubs in position. That is, physically moved the hub to the lock
position. Whilst we're on the subject of those three-wheel hubs, let's talk about them a
little more. Their function is to provide a means of connecting the front stub axle to
which the wheels are attached with the drive coming from the front differential whenever
a four-wheel drive range is selected. In addition to providing us with a means of connecting
drive to the front axles, the hubs also provide us with a means of disconnecting that drive
when four-wheel drive is not required by moving the hub to the free position. This is done
so as to avoid axle and transmission wind-up. If a four-wheel drive is used on a non-slip
surface such as bitumen for distances in excess of 30 kilometres, wind-up will occur because
these surfaces offer much greater traction. In many four-wheel drive vehicles today the
engagement and disengagement of three-wheel hubs is done manually. In others, the task
is done electronically whenever the transfer case lever is moved into or out of a four-wheel
drive range. I believe it's a good practice whenever you venture off the blacktop to engage
both four-wheel drive and your hubs. Chances are you'll need to sooner or later anyway,
but apart from that it offers much greater control and steering stability on loose surfaces.
In addition, if you do need a quick change to low range, it's only a flick of a lever
away. Preventative maintenance is the task that you should carry out to avoid unnecessary
and costly repairs. Normally carried out at regular intervals, they should also be done
before and after any four-wheel drive activity. They supplement normal servicing requirements
and the intervals that they should be done at are weekly, monthly, six-monthly and annually.
The weekly tasks are checking the engine oil level. Apart from lubricating, oil also assists
in curling the engine. Checking the coolant level in the radiator. Low or no coolant can
result in major engine failure. Checking the battery electrolyte level. A drop in electrolyte
can lead to premature battery failure. Checking battery terminals for security, cleanliness
and general condition. Checking fan belts for condition and adjustment. Checking tyres
for correct inflation and abnormal wear. The monthly tasks are check brake and clutch master
cylinder fluid levels. They should be correct at all times. Check clutch operation. It's
important that adjustment is correct to ensure full life. Check windscreen wiper and washer
operation and refill the washer bottle. Check the operation of all lights and the condition
of lenses. And on a quiet road, test your vehicle brakes to ensure that they are capable
of bringing the vehicle to a safe, controlled stop. And don't forget to check your handbrake
also. Your six-monthly tasks include check the transmission, transfer case and differential
oil levels and top up as necessary. Check the drive line for oil leaks. Early detection
of this can save you thousands of dollars in repairs. Check radiator hoses for condition
and security of fit. Check steering and suspension for wear and damage. Check shock absorbers
for correct operation. They are important components because they assist in overall
handling stability, particularly during braking and cornering. And finally, thoroughly clean
the engine, engine bay and radiator core. The annual tasks, which are draining and flushing
your braking system, draining and refilling your differential, transfer case and transmission,
and having your automatic transmission serviced if your vehicle happens to have one fitted
are all tasks which you should have your mechanic carry out. You should also have your
mechanic carry out a complete safety check of your vehicle, especially if you're planning
an extended trip. You'll find that money well spent.
Now it's time to look at the basic driving techniques you should adopt. Firstly, a couple
of general hints. After any long run at high engine revs, it's a good practice to allow
the engine to idle for a minute or so. This will allow the engine to normalise. This is
critical if your engine is fitted with a turbocharger. Idling the engine, in this case, allows the
turbo, which spins at extremely high revs per minute during operation, to slow down
and cool down. Turbos receive their oil for lubrication and cooling from the engine, but
only when it's running. Now the techniques. Before you commence any four-wheel drive activity,
you should ensure that your driving position is correct. Make sure your seat is adjusted
correctly so that all controls can be reached comfortably. Adjust rear view mirrors so that
you have good all-round visibility. Better to know it's right at the start than to find
out halfway through an obstacle you can't make that vital gear change. Four-wheel drives
have come a long way in recent times. Until a few years ago, only the most expensive came
with power steering as standard equipment. Without it, if the front wheels came off a
ledge or struck an obstacle, the resulting impact was immediately transferred through
the steering wheel, causing it to spin violently. If the driver had his thumbs inside the wheel
rim, he usually sustained an injury. Although power steering virtually eliminates that problem
today, it's still a good practice to place the thumbs outside the rim during four-wheel
drive activities. In any four-wheel drive activity, control is of the utmost importance.
One of the most difficult aspects of control is learning to use the brakes for maximum
effect. You should practice bringing your vehicle to a stop by using light to medium brake applications.
In doing so, you will enhance control. This is easily accomplished if you adjust your
speed to suit conditions. Heavy or sudden brake applications will result in skidding,
meaning a loss of traction. Remember, when you're back on the blacktop after any four-wheel
drive activity, stop the vehicle, return the transfer case to two-wheel drive, high range,
and the hubs to the free position. Since you are out of the vehicle anyway, make a check
of the radiator grille area for debris, which may restrict the flow of air. Prevention is
better than the cure. If you're travelling convoy style with other vehicles, be sure
to keep a sufficient distance apart, particularly when negotiating rough ground, but especially
during climbs and descents. Think safety.
Vehicle Footprinting. That's the technique we four-wheel drivers use to place the wheels
of our vehicle to maximum advantage. In other words, we place the wheels so that we retain
maximum traction and gain maximum ground clearance over different types of terrain. You know
that if you don't place your feet correctly when walking over rough ground, you'll lose
your balance and fall. It's even more critical for your vehicle because it's a great deal
heavier. Balance and stability are easily upset. If you don't place the wheels properly, you'll
lose traction. If either the chassis or the differentials of the vehicle come into contact
with the ground, you'll lose forward momentum. If you lose forward momentum or you lose traction,
then you're in trouble. It may also result in damage to tyres, suspension, steering or
injury to passengers. Attention to detail is necessary when negotiating rough ground.
That means picking your route so that ground clearance is maintained and all wheels remain
in contact with the surface being negotiated. Simple things like running out of suspension
travel or snagging the chassis on a log can cause your vehicle to lose traction or ground
clearance or both. It's something that requires constant attention all the time.
There can be no doubt that terrain appreciation is one of the finer skills that you, as a
four wheel driver, can possess. This involves you being able to accurately assess a piece
of ground or an obstacle and being able to determine whether it's a go or a no go situation.
Is it safe to attempt or should you find another path? Now I wouldn't try this. It's too steep
and it's too muddy. You should always err on the side of safety and that should be paramount
in your mind always. Make sure you can achieve the obstacle before you have a go at it.
You can develop your terrain appreciation skills by obtaining quality maps for the area
you intend visiting and checking track positions, gradients and the type of terrain you're going
over. This track here is a little steep so I think it will give us a bit of trouble.
Another aspect of developing terrain appreciation skills is to check with local authorities
on the road and track conditions for the area you're going into prior to leaving. Ultimately
though it takes practice, not only in assessing a piece of ground but in knowing your limitations
and capabilities and those of your vehicle. With earlier vehicles certain rules applied
for mud and sand, second or third gear high range four wheel drive for sand, second or
third gear low range four wheel drive for mud. Today with more powerful engines, better
tyres and suspensions these are merely guidelines. If you are new to four wheel driving and
until you build your skills and knowledge stick to the proven methods. Then experiment
but use caution. There's one golden rule for mud and that is never drive through it unless
there's absolutely no alternative. That means don't play in it. If there's no way around
the mud and you have to go through, stop the vehicle, get out before you venture in, have
a good look around and decide the best route through. Driving in mud requires similar techniques
to those required for sand. The difference being that in mud higher engine torque is
usually needed. For that reason normally second or third gear low range is selected. If possible
stick to the high ground. It's usually harder there. If that's not possible and there are
existing ruts use them. Checking first that they're not too deep for your vehicle. Always
try not to create more ruts than already exist. If the existing ruts are too deep try straddling
them. This requires caution and good driving skills. Make sure the ground between the ruts
is relatively firm also. When using existing ruts and you begin to lose traction don't
try to overcome the problem by increasing throttle pressure. That will usually give
the opposite effect to that which is desired. Instead try easing off the throttle momentarily
whilst turning the front wheels from side to side. Then gradually reapply the throttle.
In some cases this action will allow the side wall tread on the tyre to gain traction on
the rut walls. If you do become bogged then rocking the vehicle by alternatively engaging
first then reverse gears momentarily with lighter throttle applications can often help.
It does so by packing down the surface under the tyres and forming small ramps in front
of and behind the wheels. If successful you'll then be able to drive out unassisted. Keep
one thing in mind with mud, if you can't walk on it your vehicle will not drive on it.
One of the great teachers for any four wheel driver is driving on sand. One of the important
aspects of driving on sand however is tyre pressures. On hard packed sand for instance
you may be able to drive the vehicle with normal road tyre pressures. On soft packed
sand however it can be considerably different. You may need to lower the tyres down to as
low as 70 kPa but never lower. 70 kPa by the way relates to about 10 psi. If you're not
sure about the area you're driving into try to ask a local, they always have the local
knowledge. One such person is a fellow by the name of Ray Muddle who is here with us
today and Ray is from the Hunter Region Four Wheel Drive Council. Ray what are some of
the things that you've found that people do wrong when they come into this area for the
first time? Not reducing tyre pressures. Grain would be the most important thing that people
don't do. Reducing tyre pressures before any attempt is even made to drive onto the gene,
onto the white sand. Reducing them down to about 80 kPa. Okay and some of the tips that
you give your people when they're driving in the area? Yeah. Reducing tyre pressures
of course is so very important before any attempt is made to drive in the sand. Following
existing tracks is very important. Why is that right? Well because the sand is a little
more hard packed and so it's not quite as difficult to negotiate and also then someone
else has driven there so there are no real hidden obstacles and that makes it a little
more safe to do so. It makes it a little more safe to use a bit more momentum Graeme and
momentum is so very important in negotiating up a sand dune. So not too fast and not too
slow? Yeah just picking a speed that's going to keep the vehicle mobile, picking the power
band on the vehicle, picking the right gear and being able to maintain revs and enough
momentum so that the back wheels don't have to start to claw at the sand because they'll
just bury down very quickly. I guess from what you're saying from that is that people should
be aware when you're going up a sand dune that the back wheels are the ones that are
doing most of the work. Yeah they're doing most of the work Graeme and if they start
to bog down then it's pointless in trying to continue forward so the driver should realise
that the vehicle is coming to a halt and stop. Usually at that point the vehicle can be
driven back down the dune again and another attempt can be made. Okay let's say I'm going
up this dune and I get bogged, we teach them when they're driving in mud that we can use
the first and reverse and rock the vehicle to try and gain traction by building little
ramps either end of the vehicle. Does that work in sand from your experience? Not really
well in sand it doesn't unless it's up a dune or down a dune and rocking back and forward
can free the vehicle but if the vehicle is on a fairly level section of sand then moving
back and forward will cause the vehicle to bury down very quickly and become suspended
on the underneath the undercarriage of the vehicle make it very hard to recover. So moving
back and forward in answer to your question is no not on sand. I'm driving on sand Ray
and I do bog the vehicle. What's the answer to that? Recognising that the vehicle is bogged
is the important thing first Graeme. So the vehicle's come to a halt and it's lost traction
and it's bogged. Recognise it's bogged, get out, walk around, have a good look at the
vehicle. Usually by digging trenches away from the wheels may allow the vehicle to be
able to be driven forward or backwards but certainly one or two attempts is all that
should be made because the vehicle will be continuing to bog down. So if the vehicle
can't be recovered that way then producing the old snatchum strap and renting the assistance
of somebody else that's in the area is the way to go. Yes that's right and there's always
usually someone around who's willing to hook up on the old snatchum strap and tow the vehicle
On hot days in most beach situations that I have been involved in you'll get a heat
haze on the beach. How should the people approach that? Heat haze would be one of the most,
one of the greatest hazards that a driver has to contend with on sand and sand dunes
such as here because it's almost impossible to distinguish the mounds and the hollows
in the sand. It all looks flat and so the temptation is to increase speed and not be
able to pick up those little humps and hollows means that the vehicle may get out of control.
So you can find yourself diving over a precipice. Yes exactly a monstrous great cliff of sand
and the vehicle can roll over. If local knowledge is not available experiment but do so with
caution. Some other points to keep in mind are if your route is to be along a beach and
that is to be your way back make sure you allow time for the return journey and be aware
of the tide changes. Crisp gear changes are essential on sand if momentum is to be maintained.
It takes practice and that should be your first concern. Normally the use of brakes
is not required in sand driving. In most cases a control stop can be achieved by releasing
pressure on the throttle. The friction between sand and tyres will do the rest. Sudden or
hard braking should be avoided as this usually causes a rapid build up of sand in front of
the wheels destroying momentum. Gradual turns on sand achieve the best results. If a turn
is necessary do so by turning down the beach towards the water line where the harder sand
lies. Planning ahead will help eliminate the need for uphill turns into the softer sand.
With tyre pressures lowered sharp turns should be avoided as this may cause the tyre to separate
from the rim. When using existing wheel ruts allow the front wheels to find their own path
and don't wrestle with the steering wheel. Make sure though that you remain in control
at all times. Unless you are very experienced steep downhill sand dunes should not be attempted.
They require exceptional control and exacting lines. Extended periods of sand driving may
cause a rapid build up of temperature in drive line oils and components. You can reduce this
possibility by avoiding sustained periods of this activity. You should also make regular
checks of your vehicles air intake system for sand. Finally develop the habit of re-inflating
your tyres as soon as possible after any sand driving activity. Failure to do so may affect
overall handling, braking efficiency and cause rapid tyre wear.
It's here in hill climbs and descents that a four wheel drivers true ability show through.
His knowledge of his vehicle and his own limitations is essential.
Gear selection is very important here especially so if that slopes surface happens to be loose,
tight or slippery. Generally today's four wheel drives will handle most uphill climbs
in second gear low range. If you are in doubt select first gear but don't over rev the engine.
Normally mid range say 2000 rpm in either gear is quite adequate. The maintenance of
traction is the catalyst in any hill climb or descent. The way this is achieved is by
selecting the right gear, engine speed and correct foot printing. Attempts at changing
gears on any slope whether up or down are a no no. If the slope is very smooth or the
surface is of a clay type a slight throttle increase is often beneficial. Should wheel
spin occur ease off momentarily then reapply the throttle smoothly. In some instances traction
can be enhanced by turning the front wheels from side to side slightly. Be sure though
that you maintain directional control.
Before you attempt any difficult climb there is one very important skill that you must
learn and that is the hill reverse start. If your attempt at a climb fails and there
will be times don't under any circumstances depress the clutch and reverse back down under
brakes alone or try turning around on the slope. If and when traction is lost release
the throttle, allow the engine to stall in gear and immediately apply the brakes without
being savage. Don't panic, don't turn off the ignition key and above all don't touch
the clutch pedal. Once you're satisfied that the vehicle is held maintain brake pressure
and select reverse gear. In most instances the use of the clutch to achieve this will
not be necessary. Then slowly release the brakes and feel for the transmission taking
the weight of the vehicle in reverse gear. The vehicle will move back slowly. As this
occurs turn the ignition key and restart the engine. What you'll experience is an
initial lurch rearwards as the engine restarts but control will quickly return as the transmission
and engine braking take over. Don't touch the clutch. Usually there is no need for throttle
here, you can now return to the base of the slope slowly and safely. On extreme slopes
for further control over the rate of descent use light feathering applications of the brakes.
Heavy applications will usually result in skiddy and a loss of traction. When descending
any very steep slope use first gear low range. Why first when second was used going up? Because
first offers much greater control during descents due to slower wheel speeds and increased engine
braking. Lesser slopes can be handled in higher gears. Again though if you're in doubt stick to
first gear and take your time. If during a descent there is a tendency for the vehicle speed to
pick up light continuous applications of the brakes will give you greater control over your
rate of descent. Don't stab at them or apply too much pressure or the tires will skid and
traction will be lost. One of the difficulties that novices to four-wheel driving experience
when descending a steep slope for the first time is fighting the urge to apply the clutch
or the brake or both whenever there's a momentary loss of traction. Now apart from light brake
applications which we call feathering as you've learnt before, hard brake applications during
any descent are an absolute no-no. What you should be doing is allowing the engine and
the transmission to do the bulk of the work and they will if you've done your homework.
It's a good practice when descending once you move off to place your left foot well
away from the clutch. That will help reduce your tendency to use it. If you do experience
a loss of traction during any descent try not to panic. Instead try these techniques.
During descents if a skid occurs ease off the throttle and steer slightly into the direction
of the skid. If you have been applying your brakes maintain the same pressure but never
increase it. An increase in braking pressure may result in wheel lockup and further enhance
the slide. Once you've regained traction slowly resume your original course. One of
the most important aspects of any climb or descent is the line you take. If a reasonably
straight line cannot be taken it may be better and safer to choose another route. Once you're
committed there may be no turning back.
No matter how experienced you become or how experienced you are every time you come across
an obstacle even if you're familiar with it don't plunge in. Stop your vehicle, get out
and have a good look around. Thoroughly assess the situation. You just never know what's
happened in that area since you were last there.
You may well have promised yourself never to wet the wheels of your vehicle in anything
deeper than a teaspoon. Problem is in this big country there are places where you will
have to reappraise that thinking. Heavy rainfall in the catchment areas of streams just like
this can cause a quiet stream to suddenly become a raging torrent. If that happens and
it happens while you're in it there's not a lot you can do about it but you need to
be prepared. Generally there are two types of water crossings and I've classified them
this way. Wading where the depth of water is no higher than the centre of your vehicle's
wheels and fording where the depth of water is above centre wheel height. There will be
times when you experience a combination of both types in the one crossing. No matter
what the type of crossing always thoroughly assess it before you dive in. Walking over
the crossing will give you a great deal of useful information. It will tell you how deep
the water is and whether the bottom is sandy, soft or rocky. When you assess that crossing
it's a good practice to walk over one side where one set of wheels will travel and return
on the other side where the opposite set will go. That will alert you to any hidden obstacles
like large rocks, hidden logs or unsighted holes. In addition it will give you knowledge
of any usable high ground. Remember though it's the same here as it was for mud or sand.
If you can't walk on it you cannot expect your vehicle to drive on it. If you are assessing
a crossing in the far north regions of this great country of ours be mindful of the fact
that crocodiles inhabit many waters there. Many drivers pay a great deal of attention
to the entry point of a crossing and too little to the exit. With some once you're in you're
committed and if you haven't selected an achievable exit it will all be too late. By paying attention
to detail during your assessment you'll gain the big picture. If your trip or excursion
involves any water crossings always prepare for the worst. That means before you leave
check all wiring harnesses for bare wires etc. Check ignition systems, check axle and
transmission breathers for a security of fitting and adequate height. If your vehicle is not
fitted with axle and transmission breather tubes to raise the height of the breathers
be aware when a warm axle housing comes into contact with cold water the sudden temperature
change can cause water to be drawn in and that will contaminate the oil. Raising the
height of engine air intakes by fitting snorkels is another worthwhile consideration. The one
seen here is a safari brand supplied by Luxton's four-wheel drive equipment in Melbourne. On
arrival at a crossing depending on the depth it may be necessary to waterproof such things
as ignition systems and air vents. As a rule but especially if you're on your own or the
current is strong never attempt crossings which are above headlamp height. As in any
four-wheel drive activity with water crossings it's safer to have another vehicle accompany you.
You never know when you'll need assistance. There should never be more than one vehicle
on the crossing at a time. Entrance angle and speed are very important. Select a gear and
throttle application which provides a steady speed. A good pace for most crossings is around
10 to 15 kilometers per hour. On entry ease in steadily and gradually build momentum. Keep
engine revs up and don't ease off. Once you're in don't try changing gears and don't stop. If
you do either chances are that's where you'll stay. For deep water crossings that speed can
be accommodated nicely in first or second gear low range. It will also assist in creating that
all-important bow wave and the bow wave is an essential ingredient for success. It restricts
water entry by creating a draft down each side and under the vehicle. Therefore less
chance of water affecting electrical components. The right momentum is critical. Where water depth
is above mid-reel height it's often good idea to fit a blind. A blind can be anything from a
hessian bag to a sheet of plastic. Its purpose is to further restrict the entry of water through
the radiator which can result from increased pressure in deep water. When negotiating the
exit from the crossing there are a couple of things to keep in mind. Normally low level
crossings don't prove too much of a problem unless of course you have a steep bank to negotiate.
But it's fairly easy to increase momentum prior to exit. With deep water crossing it's a little
different. Increase the speed too early and you swamp the engine. Too late and your exit may fail.
The idea is to time your increase in speed with the point at which your bonnet begins to rise out
of the water. That increase in momentum should be gradual but constant. Once you've completed
every crossing don't forget to check your brakes. You may need them sooner than you think. If they
don't function correctly drive forward a short distance in low gear, apply medium throttle and
light brake pressure. This will disperse any water trapped then recheck their operation. If they're
okay it's safe to continue. Alpine areas in Australia are confined to southern New South
Wales and north eastern Victoria. Because of this and the fact that access to many parts of the
Alpine region is restricted during the winter months many of us will never have the opportunity
to do any real snow driving. If you intend visiting the snow however or the Alpine regions
there are still some things that you need to consider even if snow driving is not available.
Here are a few things you should do before you set off during your trip and when you arrive. Make
sure your vehicles curling system has an antifreeze added. Be sure your vehicles battery and charging
system are in good condition. Check with your local garage as to whether the grade of oil your
vehicles engine has in it is suitable for Alpine areas. Add a cup full of metho to the windscreen
washer bottle to prevent tubes and nozzles from freezing up. Check your windscreen wipers for
operation and blade condition. Make sure your tyres are in good condition and have sufficient
tread. Make sure your vehicle is mechanically sound. Wear suitably warm water repellent clothing.
Take at least one change of clothes even if you're only intending a one-day trip.
Carry snow chains with you and fit them as directed. Once you enter the Alpine area drive
with caution especially when crossing bridges driving through road cuttings and areas where
trees overhang the road. These are areas where ice remains for some time during the morning and
reforms quickly during the afternoon. Approach them with caution. If you experience a skid due
to ice on the road avoid applying the brakes hard that will only enhance the skid. The best
method is to avoid the problem by driving to suit the conditions. When you've arrived and park your
vehicle especially overnight observe the following. Park your vehicle in gear with a handbrake off.
If left on overnight they can freeze solid leaving the vehicle immobilized. Until recently the
accepted practice with windscreen wipers was to move the blades away from the windscreen overnight.
Most park officials these days say it's not such a good idea. Heavy snow collecting on the arms can
cause far more to be replaced than the blades and try to leave your vehicle with as much fuel in the
tank as possible. Condensation forms in partially full tanks and that can cause problems with engine
operation. Although your four-wheel drive can cope far better with snow than any two-wheel drive can
in the Alpine regions of Australia it is compulsory that you carry chains and fit them as directed and
you must know how to fit them. If directed to fit chains stop where it is safe to do so where you
are plainly visible to other road users. In your four-wheel drive if you have a four-wheel drive
rain selected and the hubs engaged chains are fitted to the front wheels. By doing this traction
is improved and steering stability is improved. If the going it's tough and you have a second set
fit them to the rear wheels. Remember after you fit a change the vehicles turning circle will be
reduced. If you turn too sharply damage can be sustained to the underbody. After you've travelled
a short distance with the chains fitted make sure you stop and check them for security of fitting.
Damage to brake lines or steering components may result if they work loose. If you're still on a
fairly firm surface after fitting the chains and experience steering vibrations and noise don't
be alarmed. That's normal and provided you keep your speed under 40 kilometres an hour you'll be
okay. The trick in snow driving as with most types of four-wheel driving is gaining and
maintaining traction. Once in the white stuff with your chains fitted light snow can be handled
quite adequately in second or third gear high range depending on your vehicle type. Deep
snow however will usually demand that you use low range. If you are immobilised in deep snow try
using the rocking technique described in the mud section to forge those ramps but don't forget to
have your shovel handy just in case. There's nothing worse than trying to clear snow from
underneath the vehicle by hand. If the going gets really tough traction can be further enhanced by
lowering tyre pressures a little as for sand driving. If you are unfamiliar with an area or
come across an obstacle stop and check it out on foot. This way you will reduce the chances of
surprises. As with sand when driving in snow try to stick to existing vehicle tracks. If you're
doing a lot of snow driving make regular checks for buildup of snow under the bonnet and around
steering components. It can have a detrimental effect. When chains are no longer required remove
them as soon as possible and wipe them clean before slowing them away. The array of recovery
equipment available to you today can be absolutely mind-boggling. Many newcomers to four-wheel
driving for the first time experience difficulty in separating the nice-to-haves from the
must-haves. In reality it's up to you to decide what your requirements are. Where are you going?
What type of terrain will you cover? Or are you going on an extended trip? When it's all boiled
down the final decision is yours but we've got a few tips for you now on what we believe your basic
recovery kit should consist of. Now apart from the standard tool kit that comes with the vehicle
and the standard jack you will find a steel base plate such as you see here a very useful item. Why?
Quite simply because it serves to spread the load when you're using the jack on uneven or soft
ground. Your kit should also include a good quality tow chain, a selection of bow and d
shackles such as you see here and or a good quality tow strap. If there's a need for you to
join two or more chains together then those connections should be done via the use of d
shackles. Bow shackles by the way are generally used when connecting tow straps to the various
tow points on the vehicles and by the way make sure that you do connect them to the tow points.
If there's a need for you to make an extension out of two or more tow straps then those connections
should be made or can be made via the use of a simple piece of dowel such as you see here and
that's simply done by placing the dowel in it like that and you'd be amazed how much strength
that has and how much weight it'll carry. Never ever tie knots in tow straps. Why? Quite simply
once you put the weight of the vehicle on it you'll have a devil of a time getting the knot
undone and chances are you'll damage the strap anyway. With chains make sure they're in good
conditions before they're used. When buying a tow chain be careful to ensure that the safe
working load of the chain is suitable for your vehicle and its weight. Tow chains should never
be subjected to sudden loadings as this can severely damage the links rendering the chain
useless. If you intend doing any mud sand or snow driving and believe me sooner or later you will
then the purchase of a Snatcham strap will probably be a very good investment. They come
in several lengths and several ratings and they are invaluable for extracting a bogged
vehicle. In operation they act much like a giant rubber band. One end of the strap is fitted to the
bogged vehicle allowing as much slack as possible. The other end of the strap is now fitted to the
vehicle which will do the towing. By the way don't make the connection to either vehicle on
suspension or steering components as this will result in damage. The idea is for the
driver of the towing vehicle to move off in second or third gear building momentum as quickly as
possible. As the strap becomes taut and the load applied it will stretch slightly and an inertia is
introduced into it. That inertia in the strap is transferred to the bogged vehicle and it is
literally snatched from its demise. In the interest of safety it's never a good idea to join two
Snatcham straps together by using D or bow shackles. In any winching operation if a tree is to be used
as an anchor point then a tree protector strap in your kit is essential. They're used to wrap
around the trunk like you see here and protect the tree from the possibility of ring barking. When
selecting that tree as an anchor point firstly make sure it's of sufficient diameter to support
the load. Secondly make sure that it's firmly rooted. If it's growing in soft or loose ground
choose another. The ends of the protector strap should be connected via the use of a bow shackle.
You should include at least one shovel as part of your kit. Without a shovel on board you're going
to find digging trenches in front of and the rear of wheels extremely difficult. Similarly you'll
find removing dirt or sand or snow away from diff centres in a bogged situation even more arduous.
Whilst it's not absolutely essential the purchase of a high lift jack as part of your kit can be a
very worthwhile thought. Aside from offering a much higher lift than a normal jack in wheel changing
operations they can be a very useful recovery tool as well. When you use a high lift jack be
conscious of the fact that because of its small base plate extreme caution is needed. The more
weight applied and the higher it lifts the more unstable it is likely to become. One other piece
of gear that you should give some thought to including in your kit is a set of snow chains.
Alright so you say to me but I live in Queensland why would I need a set of snow chains? That's
ridiculous. Well it's not because snow chains apart from aiding in traction gaining in snow will
also aid in traction gaining in sand when you're negotiating mud or you have a need to negotiate
a very steep hill climb. The range of vertical mounted winches today is just too immense for us
to be able to cover during this program. Time doesn't permit. All we want to do really is make
you aware that there are alternatives to having a vehicle mounted winch which in most cases today
are very expensive. One of those alternatives is to purchase yourself a portable winch and it will
get you out of most problems. Portable winches come in various sizes and capacities. They have
a couple of advantages over vehicle mounted winches. They can be used for instance from either
end of the vehicle or from either side. Another advantage of the portable winch is the fact that
used in this fashion it can be used as a lifting device with the limited lifting capacity I might
add. In operation it's quite simple. The rope is threaded through the winch and when the handle
is moved in this direction one set of jaws holds the rope. When the handle is moved back in the
opposite direction as you've seen then the rope moves through the winch. It's slow but it does
the job and it's better than having nothing. Okay so you've finally got out and bought all
this equipment. You've put it in the back of the vehicle and it's spreading out all over the place
making a damn mess. Well it doesn't have to be. There are bags such as this which is called an
accessory bag which has little compartments inside for you to store all of those various pieces of
equipment. When it's all in place you simply fold the bag up and it's all nice and neat and tidy.
And finally the gear that you've seen here today on display was provided for our use by John Hossack
of Albury Four-Wheel Drive and Camping Gear.
For almost in the mind of all off-roaders should be safety. Safety for themselves,
for their passengers but also for the environment. Today the environment is
everybody's responsibility. With me is Ted Stabb from the Department of Conservation and Environment.
Ted, what's your position with the department? I'm a Planning Officer for Recreation and
Conservation in the North East region. Right. Have you got some tips for people who are heading
off-road off the bitumen into the bush with regards to looking after themselves and the
bush around them when they're traveling through? Well yes I'd ask them to be well equipped and to
know where they're going, to have a map to do some checking before they go as to the roads and
their condition, as to seasonal closures. Yeah, be prepared before they go, know where they're
going. Right. Who can they contact before they go to make sure that all the places where they're
going are open at that particular time of year? Well the local Land Management Authority I guess
be it the National Park Range or in our case the local office of the Department of Conservation
and Environment, the Lands Department or whoever looks after the area. What does the driver have
to do if they come across tracks which do have closure signs on them? Well we certainly want
people to respect the sign and realize that it's there for a purpose. And you can be penalized
quite severely if you do not take notice of the signs that are there and go through anyway?
Yes, seasonal road closures or management vehicles only tracks are backed up by legislation
and depending exactly where you are and what the land tenure is and what state you're in,
you might be looking at imprisonment or a hefty fine of a couple of thousand dollars.
What's the department found generally with drivers acting irresponsibly?
Well I guess there's damage to roads and that can result in quite severe erosion.
There's also the safety aspect apart from the cost to the government departments of repairs.
So basically if we want to keep the roads open for the generations to come we should
leave it the way we find it. Well yes that's an important point. How can the 4WD community
be of assistance to the department? Well when they're on a trip there's a number of things
that they can do. If they come to sections of roads that have been damaged they can report them
so that we'll be able to do something about them. If there are trees over the road that
they can handle, cut them off. If there's drainage problems that they can cure fairly easily,
well it would certainly help that they did something about that. I guess in general terms
too if they have doubts, need advice, come to us far enough the ranger rather than
in fact running into trouble and making it harder for everyone. What about rubbish?
I guess that the code of ethics for minimal impact on the environment is to take out what
you bring in with you and if you find someone else's rubbish do the right thing. The irresponsible
ways of a few has contributed to the closure of many areas previously open to the general public.
The Australian National 4WD Council has a code of ethics which their members must observe.
All 4WDs should adopt this code but it only works and it's only valuable if it's observed.
By now you will have discovered successful operation of a 4WD is not as simple as jumping
in, turning the key and heading off to the bush. Here you have seen demonstrated the basic skills
and techniques you must develop to achieve safe, responsible and successful operation of your
vehicle. That takes a great deal of practice and a caring attitude. Care for not only yourself
but for your family, others and the environment. It must be emphasised that having viewed this video
does not mean you're now ready for that round Australia trip.
That requires strict planning and attention to detail. In the meantime however good luck,
keep practicing and enjoy your driving.
Thank you.