To do any repair properly, you need the right tools, and one tool no one should be without
is a Hanes manual.
They have over 200 titles available that contain information that's easy to understand.
Hanes manuals contain photos and diagrams of a complete vehicle teardown that will easily
help you become a better do-it-yourselfer.
It's an easy way to save money, and get that feeling of satisfaction that comes with doing
the job yourself.
Let the cool professionals at Hanes help you on your next repair.
Hello, I'm Bill Stern.
Welcome to the Car Care Seminar video tape of 12 easy auto repairs you can do at home.
You know, I maintain my own vehicle myself, and whether it's everyday maintenance, a
specific repair, or just keeping my car clean, I'm a do-it-yourselfer.
Why?
Because it's satisfying, and I save a lot of money.
Now, with the complexity of today's vehicles, I do need help, like the library of Car Care
Seminar repair tapes covering everything from basic vehicle maintenance to the latest sophisticated
electronic testing.
It's all covered, and in easy to understand language using common hand tools, and a service
manual for your specific vehicle.
Now, the basis of this tape is to show you how to use the information contained in your
repair manual to keep your car running properly so you can get the most out of your car.
Instructing us will be Scott Cusey, a man with over 10 years' experience of teaching
people how to work on their cars.
Now, we hope after viewing this tape, you'll be more comfortable with working on your own
car.
Now, let's get started.
You know, when it comes to performing your own automotive repairs, in many cases, it
doesn't matter how new or sophisticated your vehicle is, because some of the basic repairs
and maintenance procedures are really still the same.
I'd like to congratulate you for taking the first step towards learning how to do it yourself.
That's what Car Care Seminar is all about, saving you money by helping you learn how
to perform the repairs on your own vehicle in a manner that will keep some of those hard
earned dollars in your pocket and help you do the repairs the right way and the safe
way the first time and every time.
Hi, I'm Scott Cusey and I'll be your narrator and host as we take a look at 12 easy auto
repairs that you can do right at home with some very basic hand tools.
During this chapter, I'll show you the tools needed to perform the repairs and maintenance
procedures demonstrated on this tape.
Chapter 2 will cover one of the most common, yet most overlooked do-it-yourself projects
and that is inspecting and replacing your air and breather filters.
In chapter 3, we'll demonstrate how easy it is to replace a small, yet vital part of
your vehicle's emission systems, the PCV valve.
In chapter 4, we'll look at changing your engine oil and oil filter.
Performing this simple task on a regular basis can definitely extend the life of your vehicle's
engine.
Chapter 5 will cover replacing your spark plugs.
Even with electronic and distributor-less ignition systems, the spark plugs in your
engine still take a lot of abuse and should periodically be replaced for peak engine performance
and fuel economy.
Since we'll be covering several years of vehicles, chapter 6 will cover how to replace two different
styles of headlamps.
One type is a sealed beam that most of us are used to seeing and the other, a halogen
bulb type that is commonly found on vehicles with the aerodynamic composite lens assemblies.
In chapter 7, we'll move to the rear of the vehicle to demonstrate how to replace your
tail and brake lights.
In chapter 8, we'll move inside the vehicle and take a look at how to replace interior
lights and fuses.
Chapter 9 will demonstrate how quick and easy it is to rid yourself of a bothersome problem
with the hatchback or hood on your vehicle when we replace a set of hatchback lift supports.
Chapter 10 will take us to an item that you might not ever think about until it happens
to you and that is how to change a flat tire.
Many people never even have taken a look to see if their jack and the rest of the components
are in place and in working order.
In fact, I even suggest familiarizing yourself with its operation.
When you get a flat on a dark road in the middle of the night, you'll be glad that you
did.
In chapter 11, we'll take a look at the condition of your V belts on the engine and demonstrate
how to replace them.
Chapter 12 will cover the latest style of drive belts when we examine the condition
and demonstrate replacement of a serpentine or multi-ribbed belt.
Our final chapter will take us to another important aspect of the cooling system and
that is the hoses.
We'll take a look at telltale signs of a suspect hose and quickly show how to replace one.
That wraps up the areas we'll be discussing, so now let's take a minute to review the tools
that you're going to use.
Number one realizes you're going to have to have a pretty good selection of basic hand
tools to work on your vehicle.
Some examples include combination wrenches, both metric and standard, shallow and deep
well socket sets, again, both metric and standard, a torque wrench, Phillips and flat blade screw
drivers, safety glasses, assorted pliers and maybe some locking pliers, some shop towels
and hand cleaner for cleaning up afterwards, and a floor jack and a set of jack stands
or even a set of car ramps for any of those procedures that may take you down to the underside
of the vehicle.
Now let's look at some of the more specialized tools you may need.
Torx head screws are becoming a popular type of fastener for many different items and vehicles,
so you'll most likely need a set of Torx bits that range from a size 10 through size 50
like the set I'm holding.
You're also going to need to use a drain pan, some funnels and an oil filter wrench.
And since one of our chapters deals with changing your spark plugs, there are a few special
spark plug tools that will make the job go easier.
The most important ones include spark plug sockets, which are designed with a rubber
insert to grasp the insulator portion of the spark plug so it doesn't fall out.
A spark plug gapper is used to set the air gap when installing spark plugs and a spark
plug thread chaser, which is actually used on the spark plug threads of the engine to
remove the carbon deposits or burrs that may be present.
Lastly, an inexpensive spark plug wire puller like this can come in real handy for removing
stubborn plug wires.
Now here's kind of a nifty item that most people aren't aware of.
It's a belt tension gauge and it's used to make sure that you've adjusted the drive belts
on your engine correctly.
If the belt's too loose, it'll slip, which will cause premature failure and not drive
that particular component correctly.
And if it's too tight, you can actually damage the component it's driving, a neat little
tool.
Now one of the most important items any mechanic has is the correct service manual for the
particular vehicle they're working on.
One of the best you can buy is a Hanes manual because they deal specifically with the disassembly
and reassembly of your particular vehicle.
And lastly, one of the most important safety items that you should have is the correct
rating of fire extinguisher and you want to make sure to mount it in an easily accessible
spot.
Well, that pretty much wraps up our tool selection.
I'd like to thank you for choosing Car Care Seminar to help you learn more about your
car.
And before you start your next project, check to see if there's a Car Care Seminar tape
to help you do the job the right way the first time and every time.
Now let's get started with our first repair.
The tools you will need to replace your air filter and crankcase breather filter include
a regular and Phillips screwdriver set, a pair of pliers, a crankcase breather element
if your vehicle is equipped with one, a damp rag or cloth, and an air filter.
Air filters come in many shapes and sizes for today's vehicles.
However, every vehicle is equipped with one.
We suggest inspecting or replacing these filters every other oil change.
First, locate the air filter housing.
On many vehicles, the air filter sits on top of the engine directly over the carburetor
or fuel injector.
Other vehicles may have the air filter housing located near the inner fender on one side
or even near the battery.
Once located, loosen the wing nuts, hold down clips, or screws that retain the filter housing
cover and remove it.
Before removing the filter from the housing, note its position and the direction that it
sits in the housing.
Once the filter is removed, wipe out the inside of the housing using a damp rag or cloth.
Be careful not to get dirt or foreign materials inside the engine or air duct.
If your vehicle is equipped with a crankcase breather element, inspect it at this time.
If the filter is oily or dirty, replace it.
This filter may be located in the air cleaner housing or the valve cover, in which case
it will be connected to the housing with a hose.
In any case, it should be replaced at the same time as the air filter.
If it is located in the housing as this vehicle, remove the retaining clip and remove the filter
and plastic housing.
A pair of pliers may aid in the removal of the clip.
On some vehicles, only the element will need to be removed.
In this case, use a screwdriver or pliers to remove the element from its holder.
Install the new breather and attach the retaining clip as removed earlier.
Now compare the new air filter to the old one and place it into the filter housing.
Make sure it is facing the same direction as when removed.
Reinstall the cover on the filter housing and secure it using the clips or nuts earlier
removed.
Do not over tighten these fasteners as this can damage the housing or filter itself.
Let's quickly recap how easy it is to replace your air and breather filters.
First, locate the air filter housing.
Remove the housing cover.
Note the position of the air and breather filters for reference during reinstallation.
Remove the filters from their mounting.
Carefully wipe out the filter housing with a damp cloth.
Compare the old and new filters to be sure of a correct fit.
Install the new filters in the same position as the old ones were removed.
Finally, reinstall the filter housing cover.
The items you will need to replace a positive crankcase ventilation valve or PCV valve as
commonly referred to include some common hand tools and the correct PCV valve for your application.
The additional items you may need include a PCV grommet and a replacement hose.
Always begin repairs with a cool engine.
Next, locate the PCV valve on your vehicle.
It will most commonly be located at the end of a hose pushed into a valve cover, threaded
into the back of the carburetor or manifold, or simply used to connect two hoses together.
Some of today's vehicles do not use a PCV valve or have it in a hard to see location.
Refer to a service manual such as a Haines for the location of the PCV valve on your
vehicle.
Once located, remove the valve with the hose still attached from the rubber grommet in
the valve cover or manifold.
Note the position and direction of the valve in the hose for proper reinstallation.
Remove the valve from the hose by either loosening a retaining screw or simply pulling it out
of the hose.
Compare the old valve to the new one to make sure they are the same.
When purchasing a replacement valve, make sure it is for your particular vehicle.
Model year and engine size are important.
Each PCV valve is different and the correct valve must be used for proper crank case ventilation.
The method of shaking the old valve to determine if it is defective is not a valid test.
Do not rely on this test when determining if your valve is defective.
Simply replacing the valve every 24,000 miles will help ensure correct operation of the
system.
Before installing the new valve into the hose, inspect the hose for leaks, cracks and blockage.
Replace the hose if any deterioration is found.
Push the new valve into the end of the hose until it is fully seated and reinstall any
clamps if earlier removed.
Inspect the rubber grommet for damage and replace it with a new one if necessary.
Finally, push the valve into the rubber grommet, making sure it is fully seated.
Let's quickly recap how easy it is to replace a PCV valve.
First, begin with a cool engine.
Locate and remove the PCV valve from the valve cover or intake manifold.
Note the position and direction of the PCV valve and hose for correct reinstallation.
Remove the valve from the hose.
Secure the old and new valves to make sure they're the same.
Inspect the hoses and grommets for leaks, blockage or cracks.
Insert the new PCV valve into the hose.
Finish by pushing the other end of the valve into the grommet until it is fully seated.
The tools you will need to change your oil include an oil drain pan, the correct wrench
or socket to remove the oil drain plug, an oil filter wrench, a floor jack and a pair
of jack stands or a set of car ramps, a torque wrench, and a funnel.
The additional items you will need are some shop towels or rags, some oil dry, four or
five quarts of engine oil, the proper oil filter for your vehicle, and a storage container
for the used engine oil.
The first step is to warm the engine by either going for a short drive or allowing it to
idle until it reaches operating temperature.
This will suspend any settled contaminants and allow them to be drained out with the
old oil.
Shut the engine off once warm.
Many vehicles will require the front end to be raised in order to gain access to the drain
plug.
We suggest using a set of car ramps.
Select the parking brake and be sure the transmission is in park or in gear.
Whenever raising the front end of a vehicle, make sure to block the rear tires.
Next, position the drain pan underneath the oil filter.
With the proper size oil filter wrench, loosen and remove the filter by turning it counter
clockwise.
Once loose, you should be able to remove it the rest of the way by hand.
With the old filter removed, inspect it to make sure the rubber sealing gasket is still
attached to the filter.
If not there, it has most likely become attached to the engine block.
Make sure to remove it from the engine block before installing the new filter.
Before installing the new filter, wipe off the filter mounting surface with a clean towel.
Compare the old filter to the new one.
Coat the rubber gasket with a light film of clean engine oil and install the new filter
by hand.
Loosen the filter clockwise until the gasket contacts the mounting surface.
Once it contacts the mounting surface, tighten it one half to three quarters of a turn more.
It may be necessary to use the filter wrench to tighten.
Locate the oil drain plug.
It will usually be found on the lowest portion of the engine oil pan.
Slide the oil drain pan in place underneath the drain plug and loosen the drain plug with
the correct size wrench.
Once loose, remove the plug the rest of the way by hand, being careful not to drop the
drain plug into the pan.
Also, be careful not to burn yourself on the hot engine oil.
We suggest using a work glove or a towel when removing the plug to prevent burns.
Once the plug is removed, allow the oil to completely drain out.
This usually takes between five and ten minutes.
While the oil is draining, clean and inspect the drain plug.
If you notice any damaged threads on the plug or if the gasket is torn or cracked, replace
it.
When the oil is completely drained, wipe off the area around the drain hole and reinstall
the drain plug, starting the plug by hand to prevent cross-threading.
Securely tighten the plug with the correct size wrench, being careful not to over-tighten
it.
If you are not sure how much to tighten the oil drain plug, we suggest using a torque
wrench.
A recommended torque setting for drain plugs is between 15 and 20 foot pounds.
Punch a hole in the top of the filter and allow it to drain into a pan for 24 hours
before disposal.
Pour the used oil into a suitable container for transportation.
Ask a salesperson where you purchased your oil for the nearest oil recycling station.
Now it's time to add the new oil to the engine.
Select and remove the oil filler cap.
It is usually located on the valve cover and may be labeled oil.
With a funnel, add the correct amount of new oil.
Most vehicles take between 4 and 5 quarts for an oil change.
The oil capacity for your vehicle can be found in your owner's manual or in a Hanes manual
for your specific vehicle.
A tip to help remember how much oil your vehicle takes is to write the capacity, once known,
either on the air cleaner housing or valve cover for future reference.
Once the oil is added, wipe off any excess drippings on the valve cover and reinstall
the oil filler cap.
Start the engine and allow it to idle while watching the oil indicator light or gauge.
Normally, the light will stay on for a few seconds and go out when the engine regains
oil pressure.
Allow the engine to run for a few minutes and check for any leaks.
Remove the block of wood from beneath the rear tire and lower the vehicle off the car
ramp onto a level surface.
Shut the engine off and allow it to set for about a minute.
This allows the oil time to drain into the oil pan.
Next, locate and remove the oil dipstick.
Wipe it off with a clean towel and reinsert it all the way into the tube.
Wait for a couple of seconds, remove the dipstick, and check the level of the oil on the dipstick.
If it is low, add the correct amount of oil as needed.
Finally, if any oil spilled onto the floor, place oil dry onto the oil spot.
Let's review the steps for changing your oil and filter.
First, raise the vehicle, set the parking brake, and block the rear wheels.
Position the drain pan and remove the filter from its mounting.
Clean the filter mounting surface.
Compare the old and new filters.
Lightly coat the new filter gasket with clean oil and install the new filter.
Tighten it to the factory recommendations.
Move the drain pan under the drain plug and drain the oil.
Allow it to drain for approximately 10 minutes.
Reinstall the drain plug by hand, then tighten securely.
Add the correct amount of new oil.
Start the engine, check for leaks, and make sure the oil indicator light or gauge shows
oil pressure.
Shut the engine off, wait a few minutes, and recheck for correct oil level.
The tools you will need to replace your spark plugs include a socket set, a spark plug socket
either 13-16 or 5-8, or an extended 5-8 socket for some late model General Motors applications.
We also suggest having a small piece of vacuum hose, a spark plug gapper, a spark plug thread
chaser, and a spark plug wire puller to make the job go easier.
The additional items you will need are the correct set of spark plugs for your vehicle,
some dielectric tune-up grease, some anti-seize compound, and the correct spark plug gapping
specification.
Always begin with a cold engine.
This will prevent burning your hands or arms on the exhaust manifolds, which are usually
located close to the spark plugs.
Also, many vehicles today have aluminum cylinder heads.
Removing the spark plugs from an aluminum head when cold will greatly reduce the chance
of damaging the threads.
First, inspect the area around the spark plug and remove any dirt present.
This will prevent any material from entering the engine once the spark plug is removed.
A small piece of hose can be used to blow any material in hard-to-reach places at the
base of the spark plug.
Next, disconnect the spark plug wire from one spark plug by firmly grasping the plug
cable boot, twisting it 90 degrees to the right and back to the left, and remove the
wire from the spark plug with a steady rotating pull.
Never remove the spark plug wire by pulling on the cable itself, as this could break the
fragile current-carrying wire inside the cable.
To ease the removal of stubborn spark plugs, we recommend using a spark plug wire puller.
Always remember to remove one plug wire at a time to avoid accidentally mixing them up.
With the ratchet and correct spark plug socket, loosen the spark plug and remove it from the
engine.
Be sure to use a socket designed for spark plugs, as they are specially designed with
a rubber insert to hold the plug in the socket during removal and installation.
If the spark plug turned hard when removed, inspect the threads in the engine for damage
or carbon buildup.
If any is noticed, a thread chaser should be used in the threads before installing the
new spark plug.
Inspect each spark plug as it is removed.
Your old spark plug can tell a story about the condition of your engine.
Based on the condition of the spark plug, you may determine that additional service
beyond just spark plug replacement is necessary.
Consult the service manual for a spark plug condition chart to help identify potential
problems.
Compare the old spark plug to the new one to ensure proper replacement.
Installing the incorrect spark plug may cause serious engine damage.
Always check the electrode gap of the new spark plug before installing and adjust it
to the correct specification.
The correct gap specification can sometimes be located on the emission tag under the hood
or ask a salesperson where you purchased your spark plugs and they will provide you with
that gap setting.
Before installing the new spark plug, we suggest applying a dab of anti-seize compound on the
threads.
This will allow the plug to thread in easier and make them less difficult to remove the
next time.
Be careful not to get any anti-seize compound on the electrode as this may cause premature
failure of the spark plug.
Install the new spark plug finger tight.
To prevent cross threading, start the spark plug in the threads by hand.
If the spark plug is located in a difficult position to install, a short piece of rubber
hose over the insulator will ease installation.
There are two different styles of spark plug seats, tapered seat and gasket seat.
They each require their own method of final tightening.
On spark plugs with a tapered seat, tighten them one sixteenth of a turn past finger tight
with a socket wrench.
On spark plugs with a gasket seat, tighten them one quarter of a turn past finger tight
with a socket wrench.
Do not over tighten spark plugs as this could cause damage to the spark plug insulator,
the cylinder head or make it that much more difficult to remove them the next time.
After installing the spark plug wire, inspect it for any damage, cracks or burn marks.
Replace all of the spark plug wires if damage is found on any of them.
Place a dab of dielectric grease on the inside of the plug wire boot before reconnecting
it to the spark plug.
This will enable easier removal of the spark plug wire the next time you replace your spark
plugs.
Make sure the spark plug wire is fully seated on the spark plug and clear of any obstructions
or exhaust manifolds.
Follow the same procedure on the remaining spark plugs, doing one at a time to avoid
misplacement of the spark plug wires.
Let's quickly recap how easy it is to replace your spark plugs.
First, begin with a cold engine.
Remove only one spark plug wire at a time by twisting and pulling only on the boot.
With a ratchet and the correct spark plug socket, remove the old spark plug.
Compare the old and new spark plugs to be sure they are of the same design.
Check and set the electrode gap of the new plug.
Apply a dab of aniseed compound to the threads.
Start the new spark plug by hand and install finger tight.
Tighten the new spark plug to the correct torque specification or as recommended by
the manufacturer.
Apply a dab of dielectric tune-up grease to the inside of the plug wire boot.
Reinstall the boot firmly onto the spark plug.
Repeat the process on the remaining plugs until you're done.
The items you will need to replace a headlight include a set of screwdrivers, a set of Torx
bit sockets, a socket set, electrical contact spray cleaner, a tube of anti-seize, some
dielectric grease, and the correct replacement headlamp.
There are basically two styles of headlamps used.
Sealed beam where the filament, glass, and reflector are all one assembly, and composite
style replacement bulbs where the lens and reflector assembly remain in the vehicle when
replacing the bulb.
You may want to include a service manual such as a Hanes to help identify which type of
headlamp you have along with specific directions on replacing it.
First, let's look at replacing a sealed beam headlight.
Remove the screws that are holding the retaining ring in place.
A magnetic tip screwdriver will help ease the removal of the screws.
Be careful not to turn the headlight adjusting screws as this will affect how your headlamps
are aimed.
Once the screws have been removed, remove the ring.
Be careful when removing it as the headlight may slide out.
Disconnect the wiring connector from the headlamp and remove it.
Before installing the new headlamp, check the condition of the connector and the wire.
If there is any corrosion present, clean the terminals with the electrical contact cleaner.
Many lighting problems are the result of corroded connections.
Once clean, apply a dab of dielectric grease to the terminals to prevent future corrosion.
Compare the old bulb to the new one to ensure proper replacement.
Push the connector onto the new bulb.
Place the new bulb into its housing making sure it is mounted properly.
As a rule, the writing on the face of the light's lens should be right side up.
Put a dab of anti-seize compound on the screws and reinstall the retaining ring over the
bulb.
Start all of the screws and the threads before final tightening.
Also, be sure the bulb is seated properly in the housing before tightening the screws.
Check the operation of the lights to ensure proper installation.
Many of today's vehicles are equipped with a composite style lens that only requires
placement of the element assembly.
To replace this style of bulb, first open the hood on the vehicle.
Locate the bulb retaining ring.
This will be positioned behind the headlight lens inside the engine compartment.
On some vehicles, components such as the battery or front grill may have to be repositioned
in order to gain access to the bulb.
Once located, turn the bulb retaining ring counter-clockwise and pull the holder assembly
from the lens housing to access the bulb.
While holding onto the bulb base, disconnect the connector and remove the bulb from the
holder.
Before installing the new bulb, inspect the connector for corrosion or damage.
Clean the connector with electrical spray cleaner and treat the terminals with dielectric
grease to prevent future corrosion.
Remove the new bulb from the package, being careful not to touch the glass portion with
your bare hands or dirty gloves.
Fingerprints or oil on the bulb will cause premature failure.
If you do touch it with your fingers, clean it using alcohol and a clean paper towel.
Compare the old bulb to the new one to ensure proper replacement.
Make sure the retaining ring is still attached and install the new bulb into the connector.
Reinstall the bulb into the headlight assembly, making sure not to touch the bulb.
Once installed, turn the retaining ring clockwise to secure the bulb into place.
Reinstall any components removed earlier and check the operation of the lights to ensure
correct replacement.
When finished, close the hood.
Let's review replacing the two most common types of headlights.
To replace a sealed beam, first remove the trim ring.
Remove the retaining ring that holds the headlight in place.
Disconnect the wiring connector and remove the bulb.
Compare the old and new bulbs.
Apply a dab of dielectric grease to the terminals of the new bulb and attach the wiring connector.
Place the bulb into position in the housing and reinstall the retaining ring.
Reinstall the trim ring and check for proper operation.
To replace a composite headlight bulb, first open the vehicle's hood.
Locate the headlight bulb retaining ring and turn it counter-clockwise.
Remove the bulb holder assembly from the housing.
Disconnect the wiring connector and remove the old bulb from the holder.
Compare the old and new bulbs.
Attach the new bulb to the wire connector and holder.
Install the bulb into the housing and turn the retaining ring clockwise to secure it.
Finally, check for proper operation.
Replacing the tail light bulb on some vehicles will not require any special tools.
On others, you may need a screwdriver or Torx bit sockets, some dielectric grease, a pair
of rubber gloves, some electric parts spray cleaner, and the correct replacement bulb.
There are many different ways to gain access and remove a tail or brake light bulb.
Having a service manual such as a Hanes will detail the exact replacement procedure for
your vehicle.
Let's quickly go over the two most common removal and installation procedures for replacing
a tail or brake light bulb.
Some vehicles require the tail lamp lens assembly to be removed, while others require removal
of an access panel located in the trunk in order to gain access to the bulbs.
A quick way to tell how to gain access to a tail or brake light bulb is to check the
lens assembly for screws.
Screws in the lens assembly indicate it will have to be removed for bulb replacement.
A lens assembly without retaining screws present indicates that access to the bulbs will be
from the inside of the trunk, behind a fender, or bumper.
On this vehicle, the lens assembly must be removed.
First, remove all of the retaining screws.
Be sure to locate all of them as sometimes they can be pretty well hidden.
Carefully remove the lens assembly from the vehicle.
Do not force the lens.
If a great deal of force is required, most likely there is a screw holding it in place.
When lifting it off, be sure to save and reuse any gaskets that may be attached.
With the lens assembly off, remove the tail lamp socket by turning it one quarter of a
turn counterclockwise and pulling it out of the lens assembly.
Remove the bulb by gently pressing inward, rotate it counterclockwise, and remove it.
We recommend wearing rubber gloves for gripping the bulb and to protect your hand in case
the bulb would break.
Next, inspect the inner socket assembly for rust and corrosion.
If any is noticed, clean the socket with electrical parts cleaner.
Compare the old bulb to the new one to ensure the replacement is correct.
Before installing the new bulb, apply dielectric grease to the connector.
This will help keep moisture from corroding the socket and bulb.
Do not use anti-seize compound as it will short the electrical connections.
With the alignment pins of the bulb in the right position, insert the new bulb into the
socket, push in gently, and twist one quarter of a turn clockwise to lock it in place.
If the bulb will not lock into place when you twist it, do not force it.
Pull it back out of the socket, rotate it 180 degrees, and reinstall it into the socket.
Install the socket housing back into the lens assembly, making sure it locks into place.
Position the lens assembly into place on the vehicle, and while holding it with one hand,
begin threading the screws into place.
Do not tighten any screws until all of them are started.
Once all of the screws are started in place, finish tightening them.
Be careful not to over-tighten them as you could crack the lens assembly.
The other common bulb replacement involves accessing the bulb through the trunk.
On this vehicle, an access panel must first be removed.
Remove any screws, and position the access panel out of the way to gain access to the
socket housing.
Next, turn the socket housing and remove it from the lens assembly.
Once again, wearing a rubber glove, remove the bulb from the socket by gently pushing
inward, rotating it counter-clockwise, and removing it.
Clean the socket housing of rust and corrosion.
Coat the base of the new bulb with dielectric grease, and reinstall the bulb into the socket
housing.
Be sure to align the pins on the bulb before installing, and do not force it into the housing.
If it will not lock, remove the bulb, turn it 180 degrees, and reinstall it.
Reposition the bulb and the socket housing into the lens assembly, making sure it is
locked into place.
Reattach or reposition any access panels removed earlier.
Lastly, make a quick check of the lights to ensure they are all operational.
Let's review replacing a tail light bulb.
First, determine which method of access is required.
Remove the lens assembly or the interior access panel as required.
Release the lamp socket from the lens assembly.
Carefully remove the old bulb from the socket.
Compare the old and new bulbs.
Clean the inner socket with electrical parts cleaner, and apply dielectric grease to the
base of the new bulb.
Install the new bulb into the socket.
Install the lamp socket into the lens assembly.
Reattach the lens assembly or access panel.
The items you will need to replace an interior light or fuse include a set of screwdrivers,
a fuse puller, and the correct replacement bulb or fuse.
A service manual such as a Hanes will help you locate the fuse block and assist during
the procedure.
Let's look at replacing an interior dome light.
Always close the doors when replacing a dome light, as this will interrupt the power going
to the socket assembly.
A dome light cover will usually be held on by tabs on the side or front of the cover.
Pry the lens cover off using a small screwdriver, and remove it to expose the dome light bulb.
Next, remove the bulb from its socket.
A small screwdriver may be useful to pry the bulb out.
Compare the old bulb to the new one to ensure correct replacement, and reinstall the new
bulb into the socket assembly.
Reattach the lens cover, and you're done.
When replacing a bulb in your vehicle's dash, we strongly recommend referring to a service
manual as this type of replacement usually requires removal of certain dash panels or
access from underneath the dash itself.
To replace a blown fuse, first locate the fuse panel.
It will usually be attached to the firewall on the driver's side, underneath the instrument
panel, in the glove box, or out under the hood in the engine compartment.
A service manual or your owner's manual will help in locating the exact location on your
vehicle.
Two of the most common types of fuses are a glass cylinder type and the ATO or push-in
plastic version.
Let's look at replacing an ATO fuse.
Before removing any fuses, turn the ignition switch to the off position.
Next, remove any fuse access panels to expose the fuses.
If a particular circuit is not working, look for the fuse that controls it.
We recommend using a fuse puller when removing fuses to prevent breakage or self-injury.
Do not use any metal tools as power is still being supplied to the fuse panel.
When replacing a burnt fuse, be sure to replace it with another fuse of the correct rating.
The amperage rating on an ATO push-in type plastic fuse is stamped into the outside face.
Never replace a blown fuse with one of higher amperage rating as serious damage to the vehicle's
electrical system could result.
Insert the new fuse straight into the fuse block.
Do not twist the fuse while inserting as damage to the fuse may occur.
To replace a glass type fuse, first locate the fuse block.
As the fuse block usually is located underneath the dash, we are performing our demonstration
with a fuse panel that has been removed from the vehicle.
Before replacing the fuse, turn the ignition switch to the off position.
Using a fuse puller, remove the fuse in question.
When replacing a burnt fuse, replace it with another fuse of the correct rating.
The amperage rating on a cylinder type glass fuse is stamped into the metal end piece.
Position the new fuse against the retaining clips.
Then, press both ends of the fuse inwards against the clips until the fuse snaps into
place.
After a fuse has been replaced, check the operation of the circuit for which the fuse
supplies power.
If the fuse burns out again, do not replace it.
There is most likely a short in the vehicle's electrical system that must be repaired.
If the fuse does not blow, replace any fuse access panels removed earlier and you're done.
Let's quickly recap replacing an interior light and a fuse.
First, remove the lens covering the light bulb.
Twist or gently pry out the old bulb.
Compare the old and new bulbs.
Install the new bulb into the socket and reattach the lens cover.
To replace a fuse, first you must locate the fuse panel.
You may need to remove a cover to access the fuses.
Use the correct fuse puller to remove the old fuse.
Insert a new fuse of the correct rating into the fuse panel.
Check the operation of the circuit and replace any cover that was removed.
The tools you will need to replace a hatchback lift support include common hand tools, a
Torx bit socket set, a standard and metric socket set, and the correct replacement lift
supports for your particular vehicle.
When replacing lift supports, always replace them as a pair because they usually fail together.
There are many different types of hatchback lift supports and various methods for mounting.
For detailed removal and installation instructions for your particular vehicle, refer to a server
service manual such as a Hanes.
Let's look at replacing a typical set of lift supports.
First, turn the ignition switch off and place the vehicle in park or gear.
For safety reasons, have an assistant help hold the hatch open while you are replacing
the supports.
Never use a prop to hold the hatch open as personal injury could result if the hatch
falls down.
Before removing the old support, examine any hardware provided to determine which components
must be reused.
If the hatch of the vehicle is equipped with an electric rear window defroster, remove
any electrical connections from the support.
Next, detach the lower end of the hatch support by prying the clip off and removing the pin
from the lower support.
Using a Torx bit, remove the bolt at the upper end of the lift support and remove the lift
support from the vehicle.
Compare the old support to the new one to ensure the replacement is correct.
Reinstall any hardware that must be reused from the old support to the new one.
Position the new support into place on the vehicle, making sure not to scratch or nick
the chrome rod.
Reinstall the bolt that secures the upper end of the support.
Place the lower end of the support into the bracket.
Reinstall the pin through the bracket and support.
And insert the clip onto the end of the pin.
Disconnect any electrical connectors removed earlier.
Repeat the same procedure on the second support when complete.
Lift the hatch up and down to check for any binding or loose components.
Let's review the steps for replacing a hatch lift support.
Open the hatch and have an assistant support it.
Remove any trim pieces necessary to access the mounting positions.
Disconnect any electrical connections.
Release the retaining clip or pin from the lower end of the lift support.
Remove the upper end of the lift support from the hatch.
Compare the old and new lift supports to ensure you have the correct replacement.
Position the new support and attach the upper end to the hatch.
Position the lower end of the support and re-secure its mounting.
Finish by reattaching any electrical connections and reinstall any trim pieces removed earlier.
The tools you will need to properly change a flat tire include a suitable jack, a lug
nut wrench, a block of wood to use as a wheel block, a small board or piece of plywood for
jack support, and a good spare tire.
The additional items we recommend include a cross-type lug nut wrench for easier removal
and installation of lug nuts, a flashlight, work gloves, and safety flares or reflective
warning triangles.
These should be placed on the roadside for safety when changing the flat tire.
Also, a small tube of waterless hand cleaner in the glove box can be convenient for cleaning
up after changing the tire.
Besides having all the equipment necessary for changing a flat tire, be familiar with
the procedure on changing your flat.
Know how to use your vehicle's jack and where it should be placed under the vehicle.
A practice run at home can be useful when the actual emergency occurs.
When you encounter a roadside emergency, pull off to the side of the road and turn on the
vehicle's hazard flashers.
To change a flat tire, first set the parking brake and place the vehicle in park or in
gear if it's a manual transmission.
Next, gather everything needed to change the flat tire from the vehicle.
Remove any wheel cover or hubcap to gain access to the lug nuts.
The lug nut wrench generally has a flat tip for removing the cover.
Some wheel covers and custom aluminum wheels have locks or hard-to-spot pry slots.
Check your owner's manual for further information regarding these setups.
Loosen all of the lug nuts, but do not remove them at this time.
If you cannot loosen a tight lug nut, first be sure you are turning it in the right direction.
Then position the wrench on the nut so you can safely step on the wrench using the weight
of your body to help loosen the nut.
After all the nuts have been slightly loosened, position a block of wood behind the tire diagonally
opposite the flat.
Position the jack according to the carmaker's directions.
Jack up the vehicle until the flat tire clears the ground by one-half to one inch.
Keeping the vehicle height at a minimum will provide maximum vehicle stability.
When the vehicle is being jacked up, be sure all passengers are out.
If you are stopped on an unpaved shoulder or in sand, position a piece of wood beneath
the foot of the jack for better support.
Once the tire is off the ground, remove the loosened lug nuts, saving the one farthest
from the ground for last.
Remove the flat tire from the vehicle and place off to the side.
Then position the spare tire on the wheel studs.
Put the lug nuts back on by hand to prevent cross-threading.
Start the one farthest from the ground first.
Once all the lug nuts have been installed, tighten them just enough so the wheel is snug.
Be sure to tighten them in a star or crisscross pattern.
Lower the vehicle until the tire contacts the ground.
Using the lug wrench, finish tightening the lug nuts, again following a star or crisscross
pattern.
Finish lowering and remove the jack from beneath the vehicle.
Remove the block of wood from the other tire.
Then stow the flat tire, jack, lug nut wrench, and wheel cover in the vehicle's trunk and
drive to the nearest service center for tire repair.
Many of today's spare tires are meant for emergency use only and are not recommended
for use as a permanent replacement.
Refer to your owner's manual for the proper distance and speed the vehicle can be operated
at with the spare tire in place.
Now let's run through how to change a flat tire.
First, set the parking brake and put the automatic transmission in park or manual transmission
in gear.
Remove the hubcap and loosen the lug nuts.
Block the diagonally opposed wheel and raise the vehicle with a jack.
Finish removing the lug nuts and the flat tire.
Put the spare tire in place and snug the lug nuts.
Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Remove the jack and the wheel block and you're done.
The items you will need to inspect and replace a V-belt include a half inch drive socket
set, a belt tension gauge, a ruler or tape measure and straight edge, a flashlight, a
pencil and paper and the correct replacement V-belt.
A service manual such as a Hanes will assist in the removal and installation of the belt.
The number of V-belts used on a particular vehicle depends on the accessories installed.
As each V-belt will drive a particular accessory such as an alternator or water pump, it is
very important to inspect them periodically.
We recommend inspecting the belts at least twice a year.
We also recommend replacement every two years or 25,000 miles.
Before inspecting your V-belts, first make sure the ignition key is off and always begin
with a cool engine to prevent burns.
Locate the V-belts and using your fingers and a flashlight if necessary, move along
the belts checking for cracks, fraying, peeling, glazing or oil contamination.
If oil is present, the cause of the leak must be corrected to ensure proper operation of
the new belt.
Twist the belts and inspect the other side for similar damage.
Next, inspect the pulleys for nicks, cracks, distortion or corrosion and replace as needed.
When replacing a V-belt, the first step is to note how the belt is routed on the vehicle.
A quick hand-drawn picture can save some time and frustration when rerouting the new belts.
On vehicles equipped with more than one V-belt, the belt closest to the front has to be removed
first.
Locate and loosen the adjustment bolt on the component driven by the front belt.
The adjustment bolt will usually attach through a slotted bracket.
Loosen any attachment bolts and move the component to relieve the tension on the belt.
Remove the belt from the vehicle.
Repeat this procedure on remaining belts that need to be replaced or need to be removed.
If any belts are removed to access a damaged belt, now is a good time to replace all of
them.
This will save having to repeat the same procedure sooner than you may want to and will help
prevent a roadside failure.
Compare all of the new belts with the old ones to ensure proper replacement.
Be sure to compare for proper length and width.
Loosely install all of the new belts, starting with the one located closest to the engine
working your way outward.
Make sure each belt is routed in its correct path.
Using a piece of wood as a lever or using hand pressure, pull the component outward
to put tension on the belt.
Tighten the adjustment bolt.
Be careful not to over-tighten the belt as premature failure of the belt or component
may result.
We suggest initially tightening the belt until there is no belt slippage when you attempt
to turn the belt by hand.
If the belt seems to be too small, do not force it on as damage to the belt or the component
may result.
Double check the routing path and ensure the belt itself is the correct replacement.
With the belt installed, finish tightening it to the proper tension.
There are two recommended methods to check belt tension.
The first method is the two-ruler method.
First, lay a straight edge across the belt between the two pulleys.
Place a ruler or tape measure approximately halfway between the pulleys and push in the
middle of the belt with your hand.
Measure the deflection or belt movement.
A general rule of thumb is if the distance from the pulley center to center is 12 inches
or less, there should be one-quarter inch or less of belt movement.
If the pulley centers are over 12 inches apart, there should be one-half inch or less of belt
deflection.
The second method is to use an inexpensive belt tension gauge.
A belt tension gauge, as shown, will ensure correct belt tension for increased belt life.
If the belt is not tight enough, loosen the adjustment bolt, move the component, and re-tighten.
Once the belt tension is set properly, finish tightening the attachment bolt on the component.
Repeat this same procedure on the remaining belts, making sure they are correctly aligned
in the pulleys.
Start the engine and visually check the belts for correct operation.
Place the used belts in the trunk or under a seat for use in case of a roadside emergency.
Drive your vehicle for 200 to 300 miles and re-check belt tension.
This is needed.
Now let's review inspecting and replacing a V-belt.
Visually inspect the belt for cracks, fraying, peeling, glazing, or oil contamination.
Note how the belt is routed on the vehicle.
Loosen the adjustment bolt on the component driven by the belt.
Move the component to relieve the tension on the belt.
Remove the old belt and compare it to the new one.
Re-install the new belt, paying attention to proper routing.
Adjust the belt to the correct tension and tighten the component adjustment bolt.
Start the engine and check for proper operation.
The items you will need to inspect and replace a serpentine belt include a half inch drive
socket set, a belt tension gauge, a flashlight, a pencil and paper, and the correct replacement
serpentine belt for your vehicle.
A service manual such as a Hanes will assist in the removal and installation of the belt.
Many of today's vehicles use one or more multi-ribbed belts called serpentine belts to drive all
the accessories on the vehicle.
Because one belt drives all the accessories on many of these vehicles, it is very important
to inspect the belt periodically.
We recommend inspecting it at least twice a year.
We also recommend replacement every two years or 25,000 miles.
Before inspecting your serpentine belt, first make sure the ignition key is off and always
begin with a cool engine to prevent burns.
Locate the belt and using your fingers and a flashlight if necessary, check the smooth
side of the belt for fraying, glazing or oil contamination.
If oil is present, the cause of the leak must be corrected to ensure proper operation of
the new belt.
Twist the belt and inspect the underside.
Check the ribs in the underside of the belt for breaks, cracks and missing chunks of rubber.
Next, inspect the pulleys for nicks, cracks, distortion or corrosion and replace as needed.
To remove a serpentine belt, the first step is to note how the belt is routed on the vehicle.
The new belt must be installed properly on the pulleys to prevent belt damage.
Most newer vehicles have a belt routing sticker under the hood to help during installation.
If the sticker is not present, a quick hand-drawn pitcher can save some time and frustration
when rerouting the new belt.
Locate the self-tensioner pulley.
This pulley provides the tension to take up the slack in the belt.
Using a half-inch drive ratchet and the correct socket, apply pressure until you relieve the
tension from the belt.
While the tension is relieved, carefully slide the belt off the self-tensioner and allow
the tensioner to go back into place.
Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys and remove it from the engine.
Compare the new belt to the old one to ensure proper replacement.
Be sure to compare for proper length, width, and number of grooves.
To reinstall the new belt, follow the belt path routing sticker or your hand-drawn pitcher.
Correctly route the belt over all of the pulleys.
Be sure the grooves in the belt align with the grooves in the pulleys.
With the belt in place, once again apply pressure on the self-tensioner and place the belt underneath
it.
Let the self-tensioner go back into place, making sure the belt is properly placed beneath
it.
If the belt appears to be too small, do not force it on as damage to the self-tensioner
or belt may result.
Double-check the routing path and ensure the belt itself is the correct replacement.
Using a belt tension gauge, check to ensure the belt is tightened to the proper specifications.
A belt tension gauge, as shown, is inexpensive and will ensure correct belt tension for increased
belt life.
If the belt is not the proper tension, the self-tensioner may need to be adjusted or
replaced.
Refer to a service manual for further details.
Start the engine and visually check the belt for correct operation.
If any adjustments were made, drive the vehicle for 200 to 300 miles and recheck the tension.
Lastly, place the used belt in the trunk or under the seat for use in case of a roadside
emergency.
Now let's briefly recap inspecting and replacing a serpentine belt.
Visually inspect the smooth side of the belt for fraying, glazing, or oil contamination.
Inspect the ribbed side for breaks, cracks, or missing chunks.
Note how the belt is routed.
Open the belt tensioning device and remove the belt from the pulleys.
Compare the old and new belts.
Install the new belt in the opposite manner of removal, paying close attention to its
routing.
Start the engine and check for proper operation.
The items you will need to replace a coolant hose include some common hand tools, a drain
pan, a knife, replacement clamps, some steel wool or sandpaper, a funnel, a gallon of 50-50
blended antifreeze and water, and the correct replacement hose.
We recommend inspecting all coolant hoses every 15,000 miles.
Inspect the hoses by feel and visual inspection.
First, squeeze the hose several times over its entire length.
Signs of a hose prone to failure are spongy or weak spots, a swollen hose from oil contamination,
burned areas on the exterior of the hose, or a hose that is hard and brittle.
When replacing a coolant hose, always begin with a cool engine.
Never work on any part of the cooling system when the engine is hot or has just finished
running.
With the engine cool, remove the radiator cap and place a drain pan below the radiator
drain plug.
Open the radiator drain plug, usually located on the tank section of the radiator at the
bottom, and drain the coolant into a drain pan.
If your vehicle is not equipped with a drain plug, removal of the lower hose may be required
to drain the radiator.
Once the coolant has been drained, loosen the clamps securing the coolant hose to the radiator
and slide them towards the middle of the hose.
To ease removal of hoses, we suggest splitting the hose with a knife.
This will also protect the fittings from damage.
Once the hose is removed, carefully clean the fittings with steel wool or sandpaper
to remove any excess rust or corrosion.
Compare the old hose to the new one to ensure proper replacement.
Before installing the new hose, slip two new hose clamps onto the hose.
We recommend replacing the clamps whenever a new hose is installed.
Position the new hose into place, sliding the ends over the fittings.
Once the new hose is in place, slide the new clamps over the fittings and lightly tighten.
Check to make sure the new hose clears any obstructions such as the fan or fan belts
and finish tightening the hose clamps.
Now is a good time to inspect and replace any other hoses while the engine coolant is
drained.
Once all the hoses have been replaced, close the drain plug and refill the radiator with
a 50-50 blend of engine coolant and water.
On many of today's vehicles, an air bleed plug may have to be opened to release any
air that is trapped in the system.
Refer to a service manual for further details regarding your specific vehicle.
Once the system is bled and filled with coolant, reinstall the radiator cap.
Fill the coolant reservoir to the proper level and start the engine.
Check all connections for leaks.
After running the vehicle for a while, shut it off and allow the engine to cool down.
Recheck the coolant level and add coolant as necessary.
Let's quickly review replacing a coolant hose.
First, remove the radiator cap with the engine cool.
Place a drain pan under the radiator drain plug and drain the coolant.
Loosen the clamps, remove the coolant hose and clean the fittings.
Compare the old and new hoses.
Install the new hose with new clamps.
Check for clearance and securely tighten the clamps.
Close the radiator drain plug and refill the radiator.
Install the radiator cap and fill the reservoir to the proper level.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
Allow the engine to cool, recheck the cooling level and top off as needed.
Well now that you've seen the tape, I hope you've learned as much as I have.
As we keep learning more about our cars, it becomes much less frightening to work on your
own late model vehicle.
Most of what you'll need are common hand tools and they're inexpensive, but you do have to
add a few new things to your toolbox from time to time for your specific vehicle.
Now if you like this tape, keep watching for more Car Care Seminar tapes to be released.
They're all designed to help make you a more successful do-it-yourselfer.
Until next time, I'm Bill Stern.